Moss Print Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted long jacket in DROPS Big Delight and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted with double moss stitch vertically. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern db-109
Yarn group C + A or D
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 106-116-122-132-146-156 cm = 41 3/4”-45 3/4”-48”-52”-57 3/8”-61 1/4”
Full length: 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm = 30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-600-700-700-800-900 g color no 20, rainforest
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color 19, dark green

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in double moss stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm = US 11
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm = US 11: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for moss stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 7.80 $ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 7.80 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

BIND OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a needle 1 size larger.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work 2 stitches in 1 stitch as follows: Work 1 stitch but do not slip it off the needle, make 1 yarn over, work 1 more stitch in the same stitch but work it in the back loop of stitch = 2 stitches increased. The increased stitches are worked in moss stitch

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately up to vent. Then put the parts together, and work back and forth from mid front, bottom up to armhole. Then work front pieces and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 63-69-73-79-87-93 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 with 1 strand Big Delight + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work as follows: Work A.1 over first stitch, then repeat A.2 (= 2 stitches) the rest of row. Continue this pattern - REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 18 cm = 7” - adjust according to last row in pattern, the vent is done. Put piece aside and work the front pieces.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 36-39-42-45-50-53 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 with 1 strand Big Delight + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work as follows: Repeat A.2 (= 2 stitches) until 0-1-0-1-0-1 stitch remains, work A.3 (= 1 stitch) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time. Continue this pattern. When piece measures approx. 18 cm = 7” - adjust according to back piece and work last row in pattern, the vent is done. Put piece aside and work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 36-39-42-45-50-53 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 with 1 strand Big Delight + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work as follows: Work A.3 (= 1 stitch) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time in total, repeat A.4 (= 2 stitches) the rest of row. Continue this pattern. When piece measures approx. 18 cm = 7” - adjust according to back piece and work last row in pattern, the vent is done.

BODY:
Slip front and back piece on to same circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 (make sure that next row is worked from right side on all pieces, to continue pattern as before) = 135-147-157-169-187-199 stitches. Continue pattern as before, i.e. work as follows from right side: Work A.3 (= 1 stitch) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time in total, repeat A.4 (= 2 stitches) until 0-1-0-1-0-1 stitch remains, work A.3 (= 1 stitch) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time. Continue this pattern. When piece measures 61-62-63-64-65-66 cm = 24”-24 3/8”-24 3/4”-25 1/4”-25 1/2”-26”, work next row as follows:
Work 34-37-40-41-44-47 stitches as before (= front piece), bind off the next 4-4-4-8-12-12 stitches for armhole, work 59-65-69-71-75-81 stitches as before (= back piece), bind off the next 4-4-4-8-12-12 stitches for armhole and work the remaining 34-37-40-41-44-47 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 59-65-69-71-75-81 stitches. Continue pattern as before. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm = 30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”, bind off the middle 9-9-11-11-13-13 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 24-27-28-29-30-33 stitches on the shoulder. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm = 30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8” and bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BIND-OFF TIP.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-37-40-41-44-47 stitches. Continue pattern as before. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm = 30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”. Bind off the first 24-27-28-29-30-33 stitches for shoulder on next row from wrong side – bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl = 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches for shawl collar.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, begin mid front: * Work 2 rows over the first 8-8-10-10-10-10 stitches, 2 rows over all stitches *, work from *-* until piece measures approx. 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” on the shortest (measured closest to the shoulder). Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-37-40-41-44-47 stitches. Continue pattern as before. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm = 30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”. Bind off the first 24-27-28-29-30-33 stitches for shoulder on next row from right side – bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl = 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches for shawl collar. Work shawl the same way as on right front piece.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle. Cast on 33-33-35-37-39-39 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 with 1 strand Big Delight + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve) and move the marker thread upwards. Work A.2 (= 2 stitches) until 1 stitch remains, work A.3 (= 1 stitch). Continue this pattern. When piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8”, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 13-9½-9½-7½-7-5½ cm = 5 1/8”-3 3/4”-3 3/4”-2 7/8” 4-5-5-6-6-7 times in total = 41-43-45-49-51-53 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 50-48-49-47-44-42 cm = 19 3/4”-19”-19 1/4”-18 1/2”-17 1/4”-16 1/2”. Continue pattern as before, but now work back and forth on circular needle for 2-2-2-3-5-5 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-2”-2” (sew these 2-2-2-3-5-5 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-2”-2” to the stitch bind off for armhole on body). Then bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 52-50-51-50-49-47 cm = 20 1/2”-19 3/4”-20”-19 3/4”-19 1/4”-18 1/2”. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew shawl collar together mid back and make sure that seam is in towards wrong side when collar is folded down. Sew shawl collar to neck line in the back of neck. Sew in sleeves (bind-off edge) and sew sides of sleeve to the bottom of armhole – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.11.2021
Correction diagram under left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Laure Littlewin3 wrote:

Bonjour, Concernant le dos, pouvez vous me confirmer qu'on tricote en A2 2 mailles par 2 mailles. Devant gauche,je ne comprends pas le A2 0-1-0-1-0-1 puis tricoter en A3 0-1-0-1-0_1. Que convient il de faire ? Merci

19.01.2022 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laure, pour le dos, vous tricotez d'abord (vu sur l'endroit): A.1a (= 1 m) puis vous répétez A.2 jusqu'à la fin du rang (sur l'envers, lisez les diagrammes de gauche à droite en commençant par A.2). Pour le devant gauche, vous tricotez différemment en fonction de la taille, par ex; en S vous répétez A.2 jusqu'à la fin du rang, mais en M (= il reste 1 m) vous terminez par A.3 (= 1 m). Bon tricot!

20.01.2022 kl. 09:19

country flag Regina Jost wrote:

Guten Tag. Kann ich in absehbarer Zeit mit einer Antwort rechnen? VG

22.09.2021 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Jost, ja sicher aber zur Zeit ist unser Team mit der neuen Kollektion sehr beschäftigt, danke im voraus für Ihren Geduld.

23.09.2021 kl. 08:37

country flag Regina Jost wrote:

Mein Problem wurde schon einmal 02.12.2019 von einer Kundin benannt. Habe aber keine Antwort (Lösung) dazu gefunden.

14.09.2021 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Jost, die Anleitung wurde korrigiert, beim linken Vorderteil wird man A.2 wiederholen und mit A.3 enden (in 1., 3. und 5. Größe). Danke für Ihren Geduld!

18.11.2021 kl. 09:55

country flag Regina Jost wrote:

Hallo. Habe mich geirrt. Das Problem liegt beim Zusammenfügen von Rückenteil und li Vorderteil (Teil mit A4 und letzte M A3) (nicht re Vorderteil) GrößeXL)

11.09.2021 - 12:02

country flag Regina Jost wrote:

Hallo. Ich habe ein Problem wenn ich vorderer-und Rückenteil zusammenfügen soll. Muster geht nicht auf. Kann es sein dass beim Re. Vorderteil bei Größe XL A3(1M)und dann A2(2M)weitergestrickt wird? Und nicht wie in Anleitung A4. Danke

09.09.2021 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Jost, danke für den Hinweis, unser DesignTeam wird mal schauen, danke im voraus für Ihren Geduld.

10.09.2021 kl. 08:37

country flag Birgitte wrote:

Hej Med hensyn til starten og slutningen efter slidsen: Starter jeg de 3 stykker (bagstykke og 2 forstykker) med nye garnnøgler? Og hvis ja, hvad gør jeg så når det hele strikkes sammen efter slidsen? For så skal jeg vel afslutte på 2 af stykkerne, således at der kun er gang i et garnnøgle videre opad?

09.09.2021 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgitte. Du kan avslutte 2 av delene og strikke videre med nøstene fra den 3.delen. mvh DROPS design

15.09.2021 kl. 14:33

country flag Ricarda wrote:

Welches Garn kann ich als Alternative für Big Delight und Kids-Silk verwenden? Am liebsten würde ich nur mit einem Faden stricken oder mit zwei Fäden der selben Wolle.

16.01.2021 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ricarda, hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen - Sie können mit 1 Garn der Garngruppe D (Melody) stricken, es wird aber unterschiedlich aussehen, da die Garne unterschiedliche Strucktur haben. Gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden das beste passende Garn empfehlen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.01.2021 kl. 08:24

country flag Maria Teresa Perez wrote:

I LIKE TO HAVE THE INSTRUCCIÓN IN ESPAÑOL . PLEASE THANK YOU 😊

14.04.2020 - 05:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria Theresa, you can find the Spanish translaton of this pattern HEREt. Happy Knitting!

14.04.2020 kl. 13:00

country flag Jette Pedersen wrote:

Str L En ret en vrang, - det mønster kan jo ikke lade sig gøre, når bagstykket er ulig antal .Højre forstykke slutter med vrang og ryg starter og slutter med ret så skal venstre jo starte med vrang hvis det skal stemme.

05.04.2020 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, hele jakken skal strikkes skiftevis ret og vrang i bredden, og det som er vigtigt er at mønsteret kan fortsætte når stykkerne bliver sat sammen. God fornøjelse!

21.04.2020 kl. 11:32

country flag Maria Adela wrote:

El modelo ahora aparece con número 65- 17, gracias. Antes estaban las dos fotos en el mismo modelo

18.03.2020 - 23:07

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