DROPS / 207 / 25

December Sands Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with cables. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-863
Yarn group A and C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-110-116-124-136-150 cm = 39 3/8”-43 3/8”-45 3/4”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”-59”
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 100, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-175-175-200-225 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 18 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm = US 10,75
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm = US 11: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for edges in stockinette stitch. 40 cm = 16” for sleeves.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm = US 11
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm = US 10,75: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over = 4 stitches increased. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 2 knit stitches in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = 2 stitches decreased.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 2 cm = 3/4”. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-7-7-7, approx. 7-8-8-8-8-9 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2” between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 73-73-77-77-81-81 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 strand Alpaca (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, knit 2, A.1 (= 8 stitches), knit 1, purl 0-0-1-1-2-2, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, * purl 1, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* over the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 0-0-1-1-2-2, knit 1, A.1 (= 8 stitches), knit 2, 5 stitches in garter stitch.

Work until A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically - remember to decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in piece as explained below (this is done without working the stitches). Use markers when increasing for raglan.
Count 17-17-18-18-19-19 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker, count 7 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker, count 25-25-27-27-29-29 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker, count 7 stitches (= sleeve) and insert 1 marker. 17-17-18-18-19-19 stitches remain on row after last marker (= front piece).
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and work from right side as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitches, knit 2, A.2, knit 1-1-2-2-3-3, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 5, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 23-23-25-25-27-27, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 5, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 1-1-2-2-3-3, A.3, knit 2, 5 stitches in garter stitch. When first row has been worked, there are 2 stitches increased in A.2 and A.3, and 8 stitches in every transition between body and sleeve (= first increase for raglan). There are now 85-85-89-89-93-93 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue with A.2, A.3, stockinette stitch and bands in garter stitch and continue increase for raglan on every 2nd row (ie: every row from right side) 17-20-20-23-26-30 times in total - read explanation above. After last increase there are 213-237-241-265-293-325 stitches on needle. Continue with stockinette stitch and pattern with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side (without increasing) until piece measures 22-25-25-28-32-36 cm = 8 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-11”-12 1/2”-14 1/4” from cast-on inside bands.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work 36-39-40-43-47-51 stitches in garter stitch, A.3 and stockinette stitch as before (= front piece), slip the next 41-47-47-53-59-67 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 59-65-67-73-81-89 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), slip the next 41-47-47-53-59-67 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 36-39-40-43-47-51 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 and garter stitch as before (= front piece). Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 143-155-163-175-191-207 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches that were cast on. Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch, A.2 and A.3 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch until piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8”. Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Repeat increase when piece measures 16 and 24 cm = 6 1/4” and 9 1/2” = 155-167-175-187-203-219 stitches. Continue until piece measures 34-33-35-34-32-30 cm = 13 3/8”-13”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11 3/4” from division. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and work 1 row from wrong side while decreasing 2 stitches over A.2 and 2 stitches over A.3 = 151-163-171-183-199-215 stitches. Work next row as follows from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, knit 2, A.1, * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 16 stitches remain, knit 1, A.1, knit 2 and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch. Continue until piece measures 40-39-41-40-38-36 cm = 15 3/4”-15 1/4”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/4” from division (= approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8” rib). Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Jacket measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-18 3/8”-29 1/8”-30” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 41-47-47-53-59-67 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 47-53-55-61-67-75 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches under sleeve. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-3½-3-2-1½-1 cm = 1 3/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/8”-3/4”-1/2”-3/8” 7-10-10-13-15-18 times in total = 33-33-35-35-37-39 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 36-36-34-32-28-25 cm = 14 1/4”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11”-9 3/4” from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm = US 10,75. Work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 6 cm = 2 3/8” (or desired length), on first round increase 1 stitch = 34-34-36-36-38-40 stitches. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 42-42-40-38-34-31 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”-15”-13 3/8”-12 1/4” from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= when diagram has been worked vertically, repeat diagram from row with arrow

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Lina Vallezza 13.02.2020 - 19:32:

Guten Abend, habe nur eine Frage , wie die Maschen vom Diagramm in der rückseite gestrickt werden ist mir klar , aber wie strickt man die anderen Maschen so wie sie erscheinen ausser die 5 Maschen kraus?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 08:59:

Liebe Frau Valezza, die Jacke wird glatt rechts gestrickt mit Blendemaschen kraus rechts (= krausrippe = recht bei jeder Reihe) und Zöpfe (Diagramme A.2 und A.3) - beim Hals wird A.1 und Rippenmuster gestrickt. Glatt rechts stricken Sie rechts bei Hinreihen und links bei Rückreihen und glatt rechts wird immer rechts in der Runde gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

DUVAL MARIE-THERESE 06.02.2020 - 18:31:

Avant de me lancer dans ce travail, j'ai besoin d'être sure de la taille à choisir. Je fais un 48/50, que dois-je choisir : L, XL ou XXL? Merci pour votre aide précieuse.

DROPS Design 07.02.2020 kl. 07:47:

Bonjour Mme Duval, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez les mesures à celles du schéma, c'est la façon la plus simple de trouver la taille idéale. Vous trouverez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

Torunn Hjøllo 24.01.2020 - 19:41:

Jeg har strikket bærestykket, og skal nå begynne på bolen (og legge av masker til armene), men jeg forstår ikke når jeg skal starte med dette. Jeg er ferdig med den rette runden der jeg har økt de siste maskene (ved å lage kast), og skal nå strikke vrangt. Er det nå jeg skal legge av masker, eller skal jeg strikke en rad vrang og rett før jeg starter med dette?

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 11:12:

Hei Torunn. Etter siste økning er det 213-237-241-265-293-325 masker på pinnen og neste pinne fra vrangen så skal det legges opp nye masker under ermene. Samtidig skal det settes masker på tråd for ermene, og siste økning strikkes som før. God Fornøyelse!

Vera 07.01.2020 - 19:48:

Müssten die Knopflöcher nicht am Anfang einer Hinreihe gestrickt werden , damit diese am rechten Vorderteil sind? Lg Vera

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 08:22:

Liebe Vera, die Jacke wird oben nach unten gestrickt, dh die Hinreihen beginnen mit dem linken Vorderteil und enden mit dem rechten Vorderteil, deshalb werden die Knopflöcher am Ende einer Hinreihe gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vera 07.01.2020 - 19:45:

Sind die Knopflöcher nicht am Anfang einer Hinreihe zu stricken, damit sie am rechten Vorderteil sind?\\\\r\\\\nDanke für die Antwort \\\\r\\\\nLg Vera

GIULIA GIACON 19.11.2019 - 11:42:

Buon giorno in nr di ferri indicato nella lana è 5mm ma nel modello vengono usati ferri da 7mm e 8mm. Come mai? non viene una lavorazione troppo larga e molla? grazie e cordiali saluti

DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 22:41:

Buonasera Giulia, questo modello è lavorato con 1 filo di Alpaca e 1 filo di Alpaca Bouclè lavorati insieme, quindi con 2 fili. Buon lavoro!

Vigdis Sund 01.11.2019 - 11:15:

Elegant og tidløs jakke. 👍

Annereau 08.09.2019 - 19:26:

A quand les explications? J’aimerai beaucoup faire ce modèle

Aud 27.08.2019 - 16:17:

Nydelig😘

Francine 14.08.2019 - 19:53:

Heel mooi

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