DROPS / 207 / 26

Urban Autumn by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater and hat in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with one-colored English rib and 2-colored English rib in stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-219
Yarn group C or A + A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-116-128-140 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45 3/4”-50 3/8”-55”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Fits head size: One size

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-300 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 27, sea green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 17, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 09, navy blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 05, brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 06, black

SWEATER:

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-116-128-140 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45 3/4”-50 3/8”-55”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.


MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 27, sea green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 17, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 09, navy blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 05, brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 06, black

KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 30 rows (15 rows counted in knitted stitches) in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

SIZE:
One size

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g color 02, wheat
50 g color 27, sea green
50 g color 17, denim blue
50 g color 09, navy blue
50 g color 05, brown
50 g color 06, black

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows (18 rows counted in knitted stitches) in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Color combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):
A) DROPS AIR 02, 20, 28, 05, 07, 06
B) DROPS AIR 02, 26, 19, 05, 12, 06

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 20) = 3.8.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 3rd and 4th stitch together.

PATTERN:
Sweater: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagrams A.4 and A.5.

KNITTING TIP (number of stitches):
All stitch-numbers given when working English rib are without yarn overs; the yarn overs belong to the knitted stitches and are counted together as 1 stitch.

STRIPES A.1 (for sweater):
The arrows in A.1 show which color you start with; either main color (H) or second color (B). Work every other round with (H) and (B).
A: wheat (H), denim blue (B).
B: wheat (H), sea green (B).
C: wheat (H), denim blue (B).
D: wheat (H), navy blue (B).

STRIPES A.2 (for sweater):
The arrows in A.2 show which color you start with; either main color (H) or second color (B). When there are 2 colors, work every other round with (H) and (B).
A: navy blue (H).
B: sea green (H).
C: brown (H).
D: black (H).
E: sea green (H), black (B).
F: wheat (H), brown (B).
G: brown (H).
H: wheat (H).
I: wheat (H), navy blue (B).
J: wheat (H), denim blue (B).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can bind off with a ½ size larger needle.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves; only in sizes L, XXL and XXXL):
Decrease alternately before and after the marker thread on rounds with (H).
Decrease 2 stitches at the end of the round as follows:
Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, slip the first stitch and yarn over onto right needle as if to knit together, knit together the next 2 stitches (i.e. 1 purl + stitch and yarn over), pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches, purl together yarn over and stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 2 stitches at the beginning of the round as follows:
Slip the first stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch which was put back onto the left needle and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased)

STRIPES A.4 (for hat):
The arrows in A.4 show which color you start with; either main color (H) or second color (B). When working with 2 colors, work every other round with (H) and (B).
A: wheat (H), denim blue (B).
B: wheat (H), sea green (B).
C: wheat (H), denim blue (B).
D: wheat (H), navy blue (B).
E: navy blue (H).

STRIPES A.5 (for hat):
The arrows in A.5 show which color you start with; either main color (H) or second color (B). When working with 2 colors, work every other round with (H) and (B).
A: sea green (H)
B: brown (H).
C: black (H).
D: sea green (H), black (B).
E: wheat (H), brown (B).
F: brown (H)

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START THE PIECE HERE

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck (with folding edge) is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is worked in 2-colored English rib and 1-colored English rib, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 76-76-80-88-92-92 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and black. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 7 cm = 2 3/4” (= including folding edge). Change to wheat and knit 1 round where you decrease 20-20-16-32-28-20 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 56-56-64-56-64-72 stitches. Then work the yoke as described below. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and work the next round as follows: * Make 1 yarn over the right needle, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round. Read KNITTING TIP-1.
Now work 2-colored English rib and STRIPES A.1 – read description above, as follows: Work A.1 to end of round (= 7-7-8-7-8-9 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been completed in height there are 140-140-160-168-192-216 stitches on the needle. The yoke measures approx. 12-12-12-16-16-16 cm = 4 3/4”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” measured from the neck mid front.
Then work A.2 to end of round (= 70-70-80-84-96-108 repeats of 2 stitches) and STRIPES A.2 – read description above. Continue this pattern onwards. When the yoke measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from the neck mid front work the next round as follows:
Work the first 20-20-22-25-28-31 stitches as before (= half back piece), place the next 30-30-36-34-40-46 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-8-8-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 40-40-44-50-56-62 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 30-30-36-34-40-46 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-8-8-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 20-20-22-25-28-31 stitches (= half back piece) as before. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 88-96-104-116-128-140 stitches. Continue according to diagram A.2 as before – the 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve are worked into the pattern as you go; i.e. on the first round purl the stitches (which should have been worked together with yarn overs). Continue until A.2 has been completed in height.
Then work 1-colored English rib as follows: Work A.3 to end of round (= 44-48-52-58-64-70 repeats of 2 stitches) in wheat.
Continue like this until the piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm = 11 3/4”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 1 cm = 3/8” left to finished length) – adjust to after a complete repeat in height.
The next round is worked as follows:
* Knit together yarn over and stitch, purl 1, knit together yarn over and stitch, 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round.
The next round is worked as follows:
* Knit 1, purl 1, 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl, purl together yarn over and stitch *, work from *-* to end of round.
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE:
Place the 30-30-36-34-40-46 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 34-38-44-42-48-54 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it marks the beginning of the round and will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Continue according to diagram A.2 as before – the 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve are worked into the pattern as you go; i.e. on the first round purl the stitches (which should have been worked together with yarn overs). AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve (in sizes L, XXL and XXXL only) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 0-0-2-0-2-3 times = 34-38-40-42-44-48 stitches. Complete A.2 in height.
Then work 1-colored English rib as follows: Work A.3 (= 2 stitches) in wheat to end of round. Continue like this until the sleeve measures 41-39-39-37-35-34 cm = 16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 1 cm = 3/8” left to finished length – NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) – adjust to after a complete repeat in height.
The next round is worked as follows:
* Knit together the yarn over and stitch, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round.
The next round is worked as follows
* Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the cast-on edge (neck) to the wrong side and sew down with small, neat stitches in black – make sure the seam is not tight and that it does not show on the right side.

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. Change to short circular needle when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 10 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and wheat. Knit 1 round then purl 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows: * Make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* to end of round. Read KNITTING TIP.
Now work 2-colored English rib and STRIPES A.4 – read description above, as follows: Work A.4 to end of round (= 5 repeats of 2 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.4 has been completed in height there are 70 stitches on the needles. The hat measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8” from the top down.
Now work A.5 to end of round (= 35 repeats of 2 stitches) and STRIPES A.4 – read description above. Continue this pattern. When A.5 has been completed there are no yarn overs on the needles, just 70 stitches. The hat measures approx. 21 cm = 8 1/4” from the top down.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work the next round with black as follows: * Purl 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work *-* to end of round = 105 stitches. Then work rib (= purl 2 / knit 1), the yarn overs from the previous round are worked twisted to avoid holes. Continue with rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2”, then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The hat measures approx. 25 cm = 9 3/4” from the top down.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.09.2019
BODY: ....The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1, 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl, purl together yarn over and stitch *, work from *-* to end of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
= knit together yarn over and stitch
= purl together yarn over and stitch
= work 5 stitches in knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and knitted stitch together, but wait with slipping the stitch off the needle, * make 1 yarn over right needle and knit stitch and yarn over together without slipping stitch from needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased)
= work with main color (H)
= work with second color (B)





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (8)

Svetlana 02.09.2019 - 10:39:

Jeg får ikke fin overgang fra en til andre farge når jeg strikker striper A.2, det blir store hull mellom første og siste masken på bærestykke. Lurer på om jeg strikker for løs. Savner en video der man kan få se en sånn overgang, når man strikker striper.

Tina 28.08.2019 - 09:38:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich habe ein Problem mit der letzten Runde vor dem Abketten des Rumpfes: es heißt *1 M rechts, 1M links, den Umschlag und die M links zusammen stricken...*. Zwischen der linken Masche und dem Umschlag hab ich aber noch eine rechte Masche... Kann das sein? Vielen Dank für die vielen tollen neuen Anleitungen u und all die Arbeit, die drin steckt!!

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 11:20:

Liebe Tina, eine Korrketur erfolgt, hier sollen Sie so stricken: *1 Masche rechts, 1 M links, 1 Umschlag, 1 Masche wie zum Linksstricken heben, die nächste Masche und den Umschlag links zusammen stricken* . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Elina Ruuni 18.08.2019 - 10:15:

Is this pattern reversible and what briocheknitting patterns you have reversible brioche top down?Thank you for these lovely patterns 🥰

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 10:21:

Dear Mrs Ruuni, due to the pattern, this jumper might be reversible - you will find all our knitted pattern with English rib aka brioche here. Happy knitting!

Regina 12.06.2019 - 22:56:

Der Brioche-Trend. Super. Das macht Freude beim Stricken.

Ellis 09.06.2019 - 21:39:

Looks almost same like sk353?

Beatrice DELEPINE 08.06.2019 - 13:06:

Tres belle collection pour aut/hiv 2019, modéle moderne et couleurs au top

Lise Ricard 06.06.2019 - 15:11:

J'adore ce modèle,

Bgd 05.06.2019 - 19:47:

Jeu de couleurs intéressant.

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