DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Urban Autumn Jacket

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with 1-colored English rib and 2-colored English rib in stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 207-27
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-220
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-116-128-140 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45 3/4”-50 3/8”-55”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 27, sea green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 17, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 09, navy blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 05, brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 06, black

KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 30 rows (15 rows counted in knitted stitches) in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 80 cm = 32” for English rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

Color combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):
A) DROPS AIR 02, 20, 28, 05, 07, 06
B) DROPS AIR 02, 26, 19, 05, 12, 06

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 17) = 4.4.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 3rd and 4th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP (number of stitches):
All stitch-numbers given when working English rib are without yarn overs; the yarn overs belong to the knitted stitches and are counted together as 1 stitch.

2-COLORED PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
The striped pattern is worked in English rib as shown in diagrams A.1 to A.4.
To get the 2-colored effect, work the stripes with alternate rows using the main color and the second color.
* Knit 1 row from the right side with the main color (H), push the stitches back on the circular needle so the next row is also worked from the right side. Then knit 1 row from the right side with the second color (B).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with the main color (H), push the stitches back on the circular needle so the next row is also worked from the wrong side. Then purl 1 row from the wrong side with the second color (B) *, work from *-* to finished length.

STRIPES A.1 AND A.2:
The arrows in A.1 and A.2 show whether the row is worked from the right or wrong side. The arrows also show whether you work with the main color (H) or the second color (B).
A: wheat (H), denim blue (B).
B: wheat (H), sea green (B).
C: wheat (H), denim blue (B).
D: wheat (H), navy blue (B).

BAND STITCHES IN GARTER STITCH (2-colored English rib):
Because you work 2 rows from the right side followed by 2 rows from the wrong side, the bands in garter stitch must be worked as follows: * Knit from the right side, purl from the right side, purl from the wrong side, knit from the wrong side *, work from *-*. Read KNITTING TIP-2 below.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for bands):
On the rows where you work 2-colored English rib, change colors inside the band stitches on each side. The band stitches are only worked in the second color (B), i.e. work 2 rows over the band stitches before changing to the next color. To avoid holes, twist the strands together when changing colors.

STRIPES A.3 AND A.4:
The arrows in A.3 and A.4 show whether the row is worked from the right or wrong side. Where there is no arrow, work back and forth without pushing the stitches. The arrows also show whether you work with the main color (H) or the second color (B).
A: navy blue (H/B)
B: sea green (H/B).
C: brown (H/B).
D: black (H/B).
E: sea green (H), black (B).
F: wheat (H), brown (B).
G: brown (H/B).
H: wheat (H/B).
I: wheat (H), navy blue (B).
J: wheat (H), denim blue (B).

1-COLORED ENGLISH RIB:
Work back and forth without pushing back the stitches. Work with wheat to finished length.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can bind off with 1 size larger needle.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves, in sizes L, XXL and XXXL only):
Decrease alternately at beginning and end of row.
Decrease 2 stitches at the beginning of the row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip the first stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch that was put back on the left needle and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 2 stitches at the end of the row from the right side as follows:
Work until there are 5 stitches left on the row, slip the first stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit together the next 2 stitches (i.e. 1 purled stitch + stitch and yarn over), pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, work 2 together and work 1. On the next row work the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1 cm = 3/8”, then again when the rib on the neck measures approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8” (due to folding edge). Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½-9-9-8-8-8½ cm = 3 1/4”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/4” between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck (with folding edge), yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 84-84-88-96-100-100 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and black. Knit 1 row. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work rib for 7 cm = 2 3/4” (= including the folding edge) – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. Change to wheat and knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 17-17-13-29-25-17 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 67-67-75-67-75-83 stitches. Then work yoke as described below. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over the right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over the right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Read KNITTING TIP-1.
Now work 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB and STRIPES A.1 AND A.2 – read descriptions above, as follows from the right side:
Work 5 BAND STITCHES IN GARTER STITCH (2-colored English rib) – read description above, work A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 7-7-8-7-8-9 repeats of 8 stitches), A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 151-151-171-179-203-227 stitches on the needle. The yoke measures approx. 12-12-12-16-16-16 cm = 4 3/4”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” measured from the neck and down mid front.
Work the next row in STRIPES A.3 AND A.4 – read description above, as follows from the wrong side:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.4 (= 1 stitch), A.3 until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 70-70-80-84-96-108 repeats of 2 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When the yoke measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from the neck mid front, work the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the first 25-25-27-30-33-36 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 30-30-36-34-40-46 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-8-8-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 41-41-45-51-57-63 stitches (= back piece), place the next 30-30-36-34-40-46 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-8-8-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work as before over the remaining 25-25-27-30-33-36 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 99-107-115-127-139-151 stitches. Continue according to diagrams A.3 and A.4 as before, with the band stitches in garter stitch – the 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve are worked into the pattern as you go; i.e. on the first row purl the stitches (which should have been worked together with yarn overs). Continue until A.3 and A.4 have been completed in height.
Then work 1-COLORED ENGLISH RIB – read description above, as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.5 until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 44-48-52-58-64-70 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.6 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm = 11 3/4”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 1 cm = 3/8” to finished length) – adjust to after a row worked from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows – from the right side:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit together the yarn over and stitch, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and stitch, 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit together the yarn over and stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 1, * purl together the yarn over and stitch, 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl; yarn overs bind off as normal stitches. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE:
Place the 30-30-36-34-40-46 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece onto circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and cast on 3-5-5-5-5-5 stitches at the beginning and end of the row = 36-40-46-44-50-56 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side).
Continue according to diagrams A.3 and A.4 as before; edge stitches are worked in garter stitch – the 2-4-4-4-4-4 stitches on each side mid under the sleeve are worked into the pattern as you go; i.e. on the first row purl the stitches (which should have been purled together with yarn overs). AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve (applies only to sizes L, XXL and XXXL) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 0-0-2-0-2-3 times = 36-40-42-44-46-50 stitches. Work until A.3 and A.4 have been completed in height.
Now work 1-COLORED ENGLISH RIB – read description above, as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, repeat A.5 (= 2 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the sleeve measures 41-39-39-37-35-34 cm = 16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 1 cm = 3/8” to finished length – NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) – adjust to after a row from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit together the yarn over and stitch, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch.
Fold the cast-on edge (neck) to the wrong side and sew down with small neat stitches in black – make sure the seam is not tight and that the stitches do not show on the right side. Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.09.2020
New charts: A.3 and A.4 (some arrows have been removed) + Added text under EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN / STRIPES A.3 AND A.4 (Where there is no arrow, work back and forth without pushing the stitches).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = purl
symbols = make 1 yarn over the right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
symbols = knit together the yarn over and stitch
symbols = purl together the yarn over and stitch
symbols = work 5 stitches in knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and knitted stitch together, but wait with slipping the stitch off the needle, * make 1 yarn over right needle and knit stitch and yarn over together without slipping stitch from needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased)
symbols = work with main color (H); start here
symbols = work with second color (B); start here
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Nicole Blouin-Morin wrote:

Dans le patron, je ne vois pas d'indication pour séparer les mailles destinées aux devants, dos, manches combien pour chaque partie? Où placer les marqueurs?

05.05.2021 - 02:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blouin-Morin, cette partie figure à la fin de l'empiècement (dernier paragraphe) qui commence par: Tricoter les 25-25-27-30-33-36 premières mailles comme avant (= devant), glisser 30-30-36-34-40-46 mailles suivantes en attente sur 1 fil pour la manche, ... . À quels marqueurs pensez-vous? On n'en place pas pour l'empiècement, mais vous pouvez en mettre pour délimiter les diagrammes A.1 puis A.3 pour mieux vous repérer. Bon tricot!

05.05.2021 - 08:41

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Ich hab ein Problem mit dem Übergang von A1 und A2 zu A3 und A4. Wenn ich mich genau an die Anleitung halte, geht das Patentmuster verloren. Soll ich da dann schon ab hier das einfarbige Patentmuster Stricken? Und später wieder zu, Diagramm wechseln

23.03.2021 - 08:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sylvia, A.1 wird wiederholt und A.2 wird nur einmal, vor der Blende gestrickt, A.2 wird gestrickt wie die 1. Masche in A.1, so wir das Muster symetrisch an den Blenden. Gleichfalls mit A.3 und A.4, bei den Hinreihen wiederholen Sie A.3 und enden mit A.4, A.4 wird wie die 1. M in A.3 gestrickt so wird das Muster auch symetrisch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.03.2021 - 08:44

country flag Donatella Torcoletti wrote:

Buongiono ho bisogno di un chiarimento. In riferimento ai diagrammi A1 e A2 quando finisco il ferro diritto corrispondente alla riga 1 e faccio scorrere le maglie in modo che ne lavoro ancora uno a diritto, questo ferro corrisponde alla riga due del diagramma? Grazie per l'attenzione

12.11.2020 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donatella, è corretto. Buon lavoro!

13.11.2020 - 15:49

country flag Anne Helseth wrote:

Jag har nu kommit till diagram A3 och A4. Ser det är frågat om detta tidigare, men tycker inte det verkar riktigt att man ska sticka två stickor från avigsidan och sedan två stickor från rätsida. Det blir ju så många extra trådar att fästa, förstår att det måste göras när det är två färger, men inte när det är en färg

25.08.2020 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne, du har ret, det behøver du ikke gøre når Hoved og Bifarve er samme. God fornøjelse!

03.09.2020 - 12:06

country flag Gitte wrote:

På bærestykket er jeg nået til striber A.3 og A.4 str. XXL. Jeg skal starte fra vrangen med marineblå = helt ok. Iflg. diagram A.4 skal 2. pind også være fra vrangen og med marineblå? Skal jeg bryde garnet og strikke en vrangpind igen? Hvordan strikker jeg når flere pinde skal være samme hovedfarve? Strikker man frem og tilbage eller er det 2 pinde ret og 2 pinde vrang og så skal man bryde garnet?

09.02.2020 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gitte. På alle diagram i denne oppskriften er det markert hvor du skal starte og med hvilken farge (hoved eller bifarge) og fra hvilken side (rett eller vrang). Det er markert med hvit eller sort "diamant" og med pil. God Fornøyelse!

10.02.2020 - 19:26

country flag May-Britt Blomli wrote:

Hei, strikker urban Autumn jacket i str S. Skal nå strikke ermene, men det får ikke mønsteret til å stemme overens med resten av jakken. Ser på bildet at mønsteret skal kunne gå rett over fra jakken til ermene. Har dere noen tips/hjelp?

04.02.2020 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei May-Britt, Når du begynner på ermene, fortsetter med neste rad i mønsteret fra der du delte bærestykke til ermene og bolen. God fornøyelse!

05.02.2020 - 07:55

country flag Bente wrote:

Beste, Zou het kunnen dat er een fout in het patroon zit? Is er een gecorrigeerde versie? Bente

06.01.2020 - 18:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bente,

Als er correcties op een patroon zijn, worden deze gelijk doorgevoerd in het online patroon. Dit patroon heeft geen correcties.

08.01.2020 - 09:59

country flag Maj-Britt Vollesen wrote:

Jeg fik den 5/12 en mail om at jeg har fået svar på mit sidste råb om hjælp . Jeg skrev tilbage med det samme at der ikke VAR noget svar !!!! Og nu sidder jeg her - 5 dage senere og ved ikke hvordan jeg skal komme videre .

10.12.2019 - 21:17

country flag Maj-Britt Vollesen wrote:

Jeg prøver igen !! Skrev til jer for 2 dage siden. Mit problem er A3og A4. Der hjælper den video I henviser til IKKE (. Jeg kan godt A1 og 2 nu ) Jeg skal strikke ensfarvede striber. Kan ikke få diagrammet til at passe( til A 3 og 4) . Starter og gennemfører 1 pind på vrangen men så passer pind 2 ikke + at de 5 kantmasker får en stribe af den foregående farve .

05.12.2019 - 03:14

country flag Maj-Britt Vollesen wrote:

Jeg prøver og prøver men kan ikke komme igang med: Striber A3 og A4 !!! Jeg kan ikke finde ud af retningen - altså starte på vrangsiden eller forsiden. Det der hvide 'diamant' tegn kan jeg ikke få til at passe med at man skal starte næste omgang i samme side ( som man skal i A1 og A2- men hvor diamanten er sort. Jeg synes jeg har prøvet alle muligheder, men så opdager jeg jo at den retstrikkede kant er forkert stribet . Håber I kan hjælpe mig ! "Den desperate"

02.12.2019 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maj-Britt, det har vi også en video som viser - prøv at lave en lille strikkeprøve først, så du kan se systemet:

How to knit 2-coloured English rib with second colour in the edge and colour change from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

03.12.2019 - 11:23