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  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Newborn Sets
  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 33
  6. 12

Winter Baby by DROPS Design

Knitted set of trousers and hat for baby in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size: Premature to 4 years

Keywords: bonnet, hat, headwear, helm, newborn set, pants, relief, seed st, set, top down

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DROPS Baby 33-12
DROPS design: Pattern no me-071-by
Yarn group B
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TROUSERS:

SIZE:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Sizes equivalent to child’s height in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Waist measurements: (36) 40-44-48-52 (56-60 cm) = (14 1/4”) 15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”-20 1/2” (22”-23 5/8”)
Full length: (28) 32-36-42-46 (52-59) cm = (11”) 12 1/2”-14 1/4”-16 1/2”-18” (20 1/2”-23 1/4”)

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
(100) 100-100-150-150 (150-200) g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5, length 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6, length 60 cm = 24”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.
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HAT:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Fits head circumference in cm:
approx. (28/32) - 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 – 50/52) cm
Fits head circumference in inches:
(11”/12 1/2"”) 13 3/8”/15” – 15 3/4”/16 1/2” – 16 1/2”/17 1/4” – 17 1/4”/ 18” (19”/19 3/4” – 19 3/4”/20 1/2”)

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-100) g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN (applies to pants):
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP (applies to inside of legs):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

INCREASE TIP (applies to pants):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TROUSERS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needles/double pointed needles, top down.


Cast on (84) 96-104-116-124 (136-144) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round = knit 1/ purl 1. When rib measures 2½ cm = 1”, work a round with eyelet holes for tie as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1, make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together *, work from *-* the entire round (= (21) 24-26-29-31 (34-36) holes on round). Then continue rib = knit 1/purl 1 until piece measures 5 cm = 2” from cast-on edge. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work an elevation at the back of pants as explained below.

ELEVATION AT THE BACK:
To get a better fit work the pants higher at the back than at the front. This is done by working short rows back and forth as follows: Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Work from right side and knit 10 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 20 stitches back. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 30, turn, tighten yarn and purl 40. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 50, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60. Continue this way until (60) 60-80-80-100 (100-100) stitches have been purled. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

TROUSERS:
Now work A.1 in the round over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When pants measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm = (6”) 6 3/4”-7”-8 1/4”-8 3/4” (9”-9 1/2”) from cast-on edge mid front, work next round as follows: Bind off 4 stitches (= mid back), knit (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) stitches, bind off 8 stitches mid front, knit (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) stitches and bind off the remaining 4 stitches mid back. Cut the yarn. Slip stitches in one side of piece on 1 stitch holder and work leg as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

LEG:
= (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) stitches. Distribute the stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and continue A.1 in the round. Knit the stitches that do not fit A.1. When piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division, decrease 2 stitches on inside of leg - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (1½) 1½-1½-1½-2 (2½-3½) cm = (1/2”) 1/2”-1/2”-1/2”-3/4” (1”-1 1/4”) (4) 6-7-8-8 (8-8) times in total = (26) 28-30-34-38 (44-48) stitches. Continue to work until leg measures (7) 9-12-15-19 (23-29) cm = (2 3/4”) 3 1/2”-4 3/4”-6”-7 1/2” (9”-11 3/8”). Knit 1 round while increasing (6) 6-8-6-8 (8-10) stitches evenly (increase after every 5th stitch) – read INCREASE TIP = (32) 34-38-40-46 (52-58) stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 6 cm = 2 3/8” (or desired measurements). Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other leg the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the opening between the legs.

TWINED STRING FOR TIE:
Cut 2 lengths of approx. 3 metres = 120” each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down through eyelet row in pants, begin mid front and tie a bow.


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BEGIN PIECE FOR HAT HERE:

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HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from mid back.
Cast on (60) 66-72-78-84 (90-96) stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 round. Then work 4 rounds rib = knit 1/purl 1. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Then work as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit (8) 9-10-11-12 (13-14) stitches, slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked, knit (8) 9-10-11-12 (13-14) stitches, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times in total.
ROUND 2: Knit all stitches.
Repeat round 1 and 2 until piece measures 7 cm = 2 3/4” in all sizes.
Then work the same way but without increases. I.e. continue decreases the same way until no stitches remain between decreases. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. (14) 14-15-16-17 (17-18) cm = (5 1/2”) 5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4” (6 3/4”-7”) measured form one of the bottom tips.

TIE RIBBON:
Work back and forth with 2 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4. Pick up 4 stitches in the tip on one side of hat (a tip to cover the ear).
Knit 4 stitches, * do not turn piece, but push stitches over to the other side of needle, place the thread behind the 4 stitches, tighten yarn and knit the 4 stitches from the right side again *, work from *-* until tie measures approx. (14) 16-18-20-22 (24-26) cm = (5 1/2”) 6 1/4”-7”-8”-8 3/4” (9 1/2”-10 1/4”), bind off and fasten the yarn. Work the other tie the same way in the tip on the opposite side of hat.

POMPOM:
Make 2 pompoms with an approx. diameter of 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Fasten them at the top of hat.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.03.2020
New chart A.1.
Updated online: 19.10.2020
under LEG: New numbers to size 0/1 months.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Elke Hildebrandt wrote:

Ich bin bei der Hose in der Größe 6/9 Monate bei einer Länge von 21 cm angekommen (gemessen ab dem Anschlagrand an der vorderen Mitte). Wie kann es sein, daß wenn ich mit einer neuen Reihe beginne, also an der Kante, die ja der vorderen Mitte entspricht, und vier Maschen abkette, dies der hinteren Mitte entsprechen soll und ich nach 50 rechts gestrickten Maschen und 8 abgeketteten Maschen bei der vorderen Mitte angekommen sein soll. Mir scheinen die Begriffe vordere/hintere vertauscht.

07.02.2023 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hildebrandt, die Runden beginnen in der hinteren Mitte, so ketten Sie die ersten 4 Maschen ab, stricken Sie die nächsten 50 M (die 1. davon ist schon auf der Nadel), ketten Sie die nächsten 8 M (vorderen Mitte), stricken die nächsten 50 M (die 1. davon ist schon auf der Nadel) und ketten die letzten 4 Maschen der Runde ab = so wurden 8 Maschen hinten und vorne für den Schritt abgekettet, und es sind 50 M für jedes Bein. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

07.02.2023 kl. 13:18

country flag Anne-Beate Dokken wrote:

Det jeg lurte på er hvor lang (i cm ) snoren bør være. Takk for hjelpen.

08.11.2022 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne-Beate, lav den med 3 meter og så kan du altid forkorte den med en knude hvis den bliver for lang :)

11.11.2022 kl. 13:47

country flag Anne-Beate Dokken wrote:

Jeg tenkte og lage snor på annen måte. F.eks hekle eller lignende.

08.11.2022 - 05:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Beate, Det kan du selvfølgelig gjøre. Hilsen Drops Team.

08.11.2022 kl. 07:31

country flag Anne-Beate Dokken wrote:

Hvor lang bør snoren være i de ulike str på buksen. Takk for hjelpen.

06.11.2022 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Beate, Snoren lages av 3 meter lange tråder og er lik i alle størrelsene. Hvis du synes den blir for lang for størrelsen du strikker, kan den klippes litt kortere når den er ferdig, før du knyter en knute i hver ende. God fornøyelse!

07.11.2022 kl. 07:50

country flag Linda wrote:

Gracias por su ayuda, gorrino terminado para mí nieto

01.11.2022 - 15:26

country flag Delrue Maryse wrote:

Bonjour Ma question concerne le pantalon baby 33 Je ne comprends pas quant il faut rabattre 4mailles =(milieu du dos Désolée

05.09.2022 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Delrue, les tours commencent au milieu dos, vous rabattez les 4 premières mailles du début du tour, tricotez les (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) mailles suivantes (la 1ère de ces mailles est déjà sur l'aiguille), rabattez les 8 mailles suivantes (= milieu devant), tricotez les (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) mailles suivantes (la 1ère de ces mailles est déjà sur l'aiguille) et rabattez les 4 dernières mailles, coupez le fil et passez le dans la dernière maille. Tricotez maintenant les mailles de l'une des jambes et mettez celles de l'autre en attente. Bon tricot!

06.09.2022 kl. 09:04

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Stricke die babymütze. Nach 7cm soll weiter gestrickt ohne zunehmen aber abnehmen wie zuvor. Verstehe ich nicht wie viel mal auf einer Runde. Bitte geben Sie mir eine Rückmeldung.

11.08.2022 - 18:56

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, ich strick die Babymütze. Ich verstehe nicht, nach 7 cm weiterstricken ohne zunahme und und dann abnehmen wie zuvor. Bitte erklären Sie mir da. Danke Annelies Rennert

11.08.2022 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, nach 7 cm stricken Sie wie zuvor, aber nun ohne die Zunahmen (= die Umschläge sind jetzt nicht mehr gestrickt); mit nur den Abanhmen wie zuvor (und diese Abnahmen wie zuvor über einander stricken). So wird die Maschenanzahl bei jeder 2. Runde abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.08.2022 kl. 09:43

country flag Berit Nygård wrote:

Skjønner ikke , etter 7 cm fortsett som før på lue uten å øke. Hva er økningen er Det et kast , jeg skjønner ikke hvordan jeg fortsetter på luen etter 7 cm . ?

07.12.2021 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Berit, ja du har øget med kast på hver 2. pind. Nu fortsætter du uden kast :)

08.12.2021 kl. 08:19

country flag Arja wrote:

Ohjeen mukaan tehdään 1 langankierto, eli yksi silmukka lisätään. Kavennuskohdassa kapenee 2 silmukka niin työhän kapenee koko ajan. Kuvassa näyttäisi olevan 2 langan nostoa silmukan molemmin puolin. Kuvassa on myös korvaläpät ja pintakuvio. Näyttää siltä että ohje ei täsmää kuvan kanssa.

09.10.2021 - 06:49

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