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Strawberry Swing by DROPS Design

Knitted poncho sweater with raglan in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, assembly free, high neck, lace, oversized, poncho sweater, raglan, round neck, sweater, top down

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DROPS 202-19
DROPS design: Pattern as-109
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 154-162-170-180-190-198 cm = 60 1/8”-63 3/4”-66 3/4”-70 3/4”-75”-78 3/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 1/4”-26”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-200-225-225-250-275 g color no 07, red

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8, length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 		from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.65$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 12.8.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 13th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit approx. every 12th and 13th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Find your size in diagrams (applies to A.4 and A.5).

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked top down. Work neck and yoke in the round. Work body in the round down to vent, then work front piece and back piece back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 102-108-108-114-120-126 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 3/purl 3) for 11 cm = 4 3/8”. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-2-2-16-10-4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 110-110-110-130-130-130 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work yoke as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Work first round as follows: Work A.1 (= 8 stitches), work A.2 over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.3 (= 3 stitches), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, work 10 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan line), work A.1 (= 8 stitches), work A.2 over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.3 (= 3 stitches), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, work 10 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan line). There are now 122-122-122-142-142-142 stitches on needle.
Continue pattern like this. I.e. on front and back piece increase in each side as shown in A.1 and A.3. On sleeves increase in each side with yarn over on each side of stitches in stockinette stitch. Raglan line is always on 2 stitches in stockinette stitch. Increase like this every other round 25-29-30-32-34-35 times in total, on next round knit yarn overs on sleeves (= holes) and work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 350-350-350-370-370-370 stitches on needle.
Then work as follows over the 121-121-121-131-131-131 stitches in A.1 to A.3: Work A.4 (= 8 stitches), work A.2 over the next 110-110-110-120-120-120 stitches (= 11-11-11-12-12-12 repetitions of 10 stitches) and work A.5 (= 3 stitches). Continue sleeves as before but when increase is done finish sleeves without increase. To continue the eyelet row along raglan line after increases on sleeves are done, work A.6 (= 2 stitches) over the first 2 stitches after raglan linen and A.7 over the last 2 stitches before raglan line towards sleeve. When you have worked up to round marked with arrow in your size, there are 390-418-438-462-486-506 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 23-26-29-28-32-35 cm = 9”-10 1/4”-11 3/8”-11”-12 1/2”-13 3/4”. Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch as before but without increases until piece measures 26-28-30-31-33-35 cm = 10 1/4”-11”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-13”-13 3/4”. To continue the eyelet row along raglan line after all increases are done work A.6 and A.7 the same way as on sleeve.
Work next round as follows: Work 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 64-72-74-78-82-84 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, work 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches as before (front piece), slip the last 64-72-74-78-82-84 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 262-274-290-306-322-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round, insert 1 marker thread after 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches. Marker threads mark the sides.
Work 0-3-2-1-0-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, repeat A.2 until 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches remain before marker thread (= 13-13-14-15-16-16 repetitions of 10 stitches) – adjust to continue pattern on correct row, work 1-7-5-3-1-9 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker thread is between these stitches), repeat A.2 until 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches remain at beginning of round (= 13-13-14-15-16-16 repetitions of 10 stitches) and work the remaining 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 18-18-18-19-19-19 cm = 7”-7”-7”-7 1/2”-7 1/2”-7 1/2” from division – adjust to finish after a round between 2 lace patterns vertically. Now divide the piece at the markers and finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 2-2-2-0-2-4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 129-135-147-153-159-165 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work next row from wrong side as follows: 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * purl 3, knit 3 *, repeat from *-* until 6 stitches remain on needle, finish with purl 3 and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 8 cm = 3 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use circular needle size 5 mm = US 8).

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-72-74-78-82-84 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8. Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 12-10-9-8-6-5 cm = 4 3/4”-4”-3 1/2”-3 1/8”-2 3/8”-2” from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). Knit 1 round while increasing 2-0-4-0-2-0 stitches evenly = 66-72-78-78-84-84 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib = knit 3/purl 3 for 8 cm = 3 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use needle size 5 mm = US 8). Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.04.2019
Correction - BODY: repeat A.2 until 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches remain at beginning of round (= 13-13-14-15-16-16 repetitions of 10 stitches)

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = last increase on front piece and back piece
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (60)

country flag Elodie wrote:

Bonjour je fais la taille XXL , j’ai fait toute mes augmentations mais je n’ai pas les 35 cms. Je n’arrive pas a centré mes motifs en faisant 4 mailles Jersey puis A2 (16 fois) et 5 mailles pour finir. Pourriez-vous m’aider je suis désespérée. Merci

25.03.2023 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Élodie, tricotez les 2 mailles au début de chaque manche en suivant A.6 (ainsi vous avez toujours 1 jeté comme les augmentations du raglan auparavant, mais en diminuant 1 maille aussitôt, on évite d'augmenter, on conserver juste le motif ajouré); et, lorsqu'il reste 2 mailles à la fin de la manche, avant les 2 mailles du raglan, tricotez A.7, (ainsi vous avez un motif ajouré comme les augmentations du raglan, mais sans augmenter). Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 kl. 09:10

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry, nie ppotrafię zrozumieć opisu , jak ze 110 oczek ma być 122 oczka, żadne wyjaśnienie mi nie pomogło. Liczyłam i nic, co robię żle. Proszę o pomoc. Joanna.

29.01.2023 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, w pierwszym okrążeniu schematów dodasz 4 narzuty w wyznaczonych miejscach (patrz opis; dodane 4 oczka) oraz dodajesz po 2 oczka w każdym schemacie A.1 i A.3 (8 dodanych oczek). 110+4+8=122 oczka. Pozdrawiamy!

30.01.2023 kl. 08:54

country flag Noëlle wrote:

Je ne comprends pas, est ce choses différentes ou les mêmes augmentations?\r\n\"Continuer ainsi. Autrement dit, on augmente pour le dos et le devant de chaque côté comme indiqué dans A.1 et A.3. On augmente pour les manches de chaque côté, après/avant les 2 mailles jersey. On a toujours 2 mailles jersey à chaque raglan\" merci

01.12.2022 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Noëlle, vous continuez à augmenter comme avant, autrement dit de chaque côté des 2 mailles jersey de chaque raglan - les augmentations du devant et du dos figurent dans les diagrammes A.1 et A.3, celles des manches se font après les 2 m jersey du raglan (au début de la manche) avant les 2 m jersey du raglan (à la fin de la manche). Bon tricot!

02.12.2022 kl. 08:23

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry, zaczynam karczek, jestem po pierwszym okrążeniu, nie wiem jak przerabiać narzuty, wszystkie z dziurką, czy krzyżować oczka? Na zdjęciu widać tylko dziurki w reglanie. Dziękuję kolejny raz. Wdzięczna Joanna.

09.01.2022 - 12:52

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joasiu, patrz symbole schematów A.1 i A.3. Tam przy brzegu schematu gdzie są dodawane oczka masz 2 symbole, które oznaczają narzut: jeden to taka czarna kropeczka (owal z czarnym środkiem) - w następnym okrążeniu przerobisz oczko przekręcone w miejscu tego narzutu, aby uniknąć dziur. Jeżeli jest kropeczka pusta w środku (na skraju i w środku schematu), oznacza to narzut, który w następnym okrążeniu jest przerabiany normalnie tak jak schodzi z drutu, tutaj będzie dziurka. Pozdrawiamy i miłej pracy!

09.01.2022 kl. 15:41

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry, z tego co zrozumiałam schemat A1 przerobić po 1x,\r\n schemat A2 powtórzyć 3X i dopiero potem schemat A3 itd? Z góry dziękuję. Pozdrawiam.

06.01.2022 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, tak jest. Trzymaj się ściśle opisu. Powodzenia!

06.01.2022 kl. 12:36

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry,\\r\\nNie mogę zrozumieć tych schematów, zaczynam karczek Sch, Przerobić 1-sze okrążenie następująco: schemat A.1 (= 8 oczek), powtarzać schemat A.2 ponad 30-30-30-40-40-40 następnymi oczkami (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 motywy po 10 o czek), A.3 (= 3 oczka), 2 oczka dżersejem (= reglan), to znaczy,że przerabiać w 1 okrążeniu sch. A1 ? Kiedy A22 i co znaczy 30? 3 motywy po 10 oczek. Wybaczcie, bardzo bym chciała zrobić ten sweterek, pomóżcie mi. Pozdrawiam.

02.01.2022 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, w rozmiarze M mamy: A.1 (przerabiasz ponad 8 o., po 2 narzutach w 1-szym rzędzie będzie 10 o.), A.2 ponad 30 o. (czyli powt. ten schemat 3 razy), A.3 (3 o.> po narzutach w 1-szym rzędzie będzie 5 o.), 2 o. dżersejem (reglan), 1 narzut, 10 o. dżersejem (rękaw), 1 narzut, 2 o. dżersejem, A.1 (8>10 o.), A.2 ponad 30 oczkami, A.3 (3>5 o.), 2 o. dżersejem (reglan), 1 narzut, 10 o. dżersejem (rękaw), 1 narzut, 2 o. dżersejem = 122 o. Jak czytać schematy w robótce na drutach znajdziesz TUTAJ (patrz fragment dotyczący robótki przerabianej na okrągło). Pozdrawiamy!

02.01.2022 kl. 19:07

country flag Joanna wrote:

Przerobić 1 okrążenie na prawo, w tym samym czasie równomiernie dodając 8-2-2-16 -10-4 oczka - patrz DODAWANIE/ZAMYKANIE OCZEK = 110-110-110-130-130-130 oczek. Dalej przerabiać na drutach z żyłką na samym początku utknęłam. Sweter rozm. M , nie rozumiem ile oczek i gdzie dodać w 1 okr. 2, ale gdzie? Proszę o wyjaśnienie

01.01.2022 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, równomiernie dodajesz 2 oczka w 1-szym okrążeniu na prawo za ściągaczem wykończenia dekoltu (czyli np. za 1-szym i 54-tym oczkiem wykonasz 1 narzut). W następnym okrążeniu należy przerobić oczka przekręcone w miejscu narzutów, aby uniknąć dziur. Pozdrawiamy!

01.01.2022 kl. 23:19

country flag Annette wrote:

Ich scheitere leider schon in der 1. Runde der Passe. Es ist mir ein Rätsel wie ich von 110 angeschlagenen Maschen in dieser ersten Reihe auf 122 Maschen kommen soll. Was übersehe ich?

08.12.2021 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annette, es wird bei der 1. Runde der Passe in A.1 und A.3 (Vorder- und Rückenteil = 2 Zunahmen x 4 = 8) je 2 Maschen zugenommen + 4 Umschläge (Ärmel) = 12 Maschen insgesamt werden zugenommen + 110 = 122 Maschen. Diese Lektion erklärt, wie man Diagramme strickt, und kann Ihnen sicher damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.12.2021 kl. 07:29

country flag Muriel wrote:

Bonjour, je n'arrive pas à démarrer l'empiècement de ce modèle. Je n'arrive pas à visualiser et à faire le lien entre explications schéma et texte. Je tricote la taille L. Voici ce que je comprends: A1 (7 m, 1j,1m,1j) 30m, (devant) A3(2m,1j,1m,1j), 2m,1j, 10m,1j,2m (manche) A1(7m, 1j,1m,1j) 30m, (dos) 2 m, 1j,10m, 1j,2m (manche) Je n'ai pas le bon nombre de mailles. Pourriez vous m'aider à démarrer le 1er tour, sous forme d'explication. Merci

29.10.2021 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Muriel, Un diagramme A.3 a ete omis: A1 (7 m, 1j,1m,1j = 10 m) ; 30 m (devant) ; A3 (2m,1j,1m,1j =5 m) ; 2m, 1j, 10 m, 1j, 2m (manche) A1(7m, 1j,1m,1j) ; 30m, (dos) ; A.3 ; 2 m, 1j, 10m; 1j,2m (manche) : 10+30+5+3+10+3+10+30+5+3+10+3=122 mailles. Bon tricot!

29.10.2021 kl. 13:54

country flag Stela wrote:

I followed all instructions correctly. I’m confused by the arrow line which doesn’t correspond to switching to A6 and A7. So what does that line represent? ( I understand the purpose of A6 and A 7 - to continue the eyelet. ) Thanks!

26.07.2021 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stela, when you have increased 29 times on sleeve you work A.6 and A.7, and after you have worked A.1-A.3 on front and back piece, work A.4 and A.5 to the arrow, then continue in pattern as before but without increasing on body until piece measures 28 cm from after neck. The arrow in A.4/A.5 applies to body, not to sleeve. Happy knitting!

27.07.2021 kl. 09:36

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