DROPS / 202 / 19

Strawberry Swing by DROPS Design

Knitted poncho jumper with raglan in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern as-109
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-200-225-225-250-275 g colour no 07, red

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.60 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 12.8.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 13th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit approx. every 12th and 13th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Find your size in diagrams (applies to A.4 and A.5).

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked top down. Work neck and yoke in the round. Work body in the round down to vent, then work front piece and back piece back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 102-108-108-114-120-126 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 3/purl 3) for 11 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-2-2-16-10-4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 110-110-110-130-130-130 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work yoke as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Work first round as follows: Work A.1 (= 8 stitches), work A.2 over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.3 (= 3 stitches), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, work 10 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), work A.1 (= 8 stitches), work A.2 over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.3 (= 3 stitches), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, work 10 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line). There are now 122-122-122-142-142-142 stitches on needle.
Continue pattern like this. I.e. on front and back piece increase in each side as shown in A.1 and A.3. On sleeves increase in each side with yarn over on each side of stitches in stocking stitch. Raglan line is always on 2 stitches in stocking stitch. Increase like this every other round 25-29-30-32-34-35 times in total, on next round knit yarn overs on sleeves (= holes) and work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 350-350-350-370-370-370 stitches on needle.
Then work as follows over the 121-121-121-131-131-131 stitches in A.1 to A.3: Work A.4 (= 8 stitches), work A.2 over the next 110-110-110-120-120-120 stitches (= 11-11-11-12-12-12 repetitions of 10 stitches) and work A.5 (= 3 stitches). Continue sleeves as before but when increase is done finish sleeves without increase. To continue the eyelet row along raglan line after increases on sleeves are done, work A.6 (= 2 stitches) over the first 2 stitches after raglan linen and A.7 over the last 2 stitches before raglan line towards sleeve. When you have worked up to round marked with arrow in your size, there are 390-418-438-462-486-506 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 23-26-29-28-32-35 cm. Continue with pattern and stocking stitch as before but without increases until piece measures 26-28-30-31-33-35 cm. To continue the eyelet row along raglan line after all increases are done work A.6 and A.7 the same way as on sleeve.
Work next round as follows: Work 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 64-72-74-78-82-84 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, work 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches as before (front piece), slip the last 64-72-74-78-82-84 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 262-274-290-306-322-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round, insert 1 marker thread after 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches. Marker threads mark the sides.
Work 0-3-2-1-0-4 stitches in stocking stitch, repeat A.2 until 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches remain before marker thread (= 13-13-14-15-16-16 repetitions of 10 stitches) – adjust to continue pattern on correct row, work 1-7-5-3-1-9 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is between these stitches), repeat A.2 until 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches remain at beginning of round (= 13-13-14-15-16-16 repetitions of 10 stitches) and work the remaining 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches in stocking stitch.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 18-18-18-19-19-19 cm from division – adjust to finish after a round between 2 lace patterns vertically. Now divide the piece at the markers and finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 131-137-145-153-161-169 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 2-2-2-0-2-4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 129-135-147-153-159-165 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work next row from wrong side as follows: 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * purl 3, knit 3 *, repeat from *-* until 6 stitches remain on needle, finish with purl 3 and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use circular needle size 5 mm).

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-72-74-78-82-84 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm. Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 12-10-9-8-6-5 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). Knit 1 round while increasing 2-0-4-0-2-0 stitches evenly = 66-72-78-78-84-84 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib = knit 3/purl 3 for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use needle size 5 mm). Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.04.2019
Correction - BODY: repeat A.2 until 1-4-3-2-1-5 stitches remain at beginning of round (= 13-13-14-15-16-16 repetitions of 10 stitches)

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= last increase on front piece and back piece





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

Marzena Allan 29.03.2020 - 18:18:

Thank you for the lovely pattern. Is this correct that A.4 for size XL finishes before size L?

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 11:14:

Dear Mrs Allan, yes that's correct, you have increased the correct number of sts in size XL at this row, and you will continue working yoke 1 cm more than size L to get the correct width. Happy knitting!

Yvonne 18.02.2020 - 14:13:

Hallo Drops Team, bezüglich der Passe habe ich eine Frage. Passe,letzter Absatz, Größe M: 137 Maschen wie zuvor stricken (Rückenteil) , 72 Maschen für den Ärmel stilllegen, 137 Maschen wie zuvor stricken ( Vorderteil) usw. Muss ich nach dem stilllegen der Ärmelmaschen ,keine neuen Maschen unterhalb anschlagen? Danke.

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 16:28:

Liebe Yvonne, ja genau, hier wird man keine Masche unter den Ärmeln anschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vibeke Wiwe 19.01.2020 - 16:01:

Når der står 77cm ved hoftebredden, er det så forstykket eller hele vejen rundt.

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 14:58:

Hei Vibeke. Det gjelder kun forstykket (eller bakstykket). Hele veien rundt er 77 x 2 = 154 cm). God Fornøyelse!

Chhavi Methi 11.01.2020 - 06:39:

Hi I am sorry I am troubling you . But when I have last increase for the medium sweater size done , my sleeves only have 62 stitches , so I am supposed to inrease once more until I divide the body ? So should I continue increasing the sleeves and following the pattern on the body until all the increases are done ?

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 08:40:

Dear Mrs Mehti, thanks for these further explanations. You increase 29 times for sleeves in size M so that you should have 66 sts on sleeve when all decreases for body are done (20 inc row in A.1 + 8 inc row in A.4). On next increase row on sleeve work A.6 and A.7 on body to keep the lace pattern on raglan lines on body without increasing more stitches. Hope this helps! Happy knitting!

Chhavi Methu 09.01.2020 - 13:03:

I am working on a medium size . So after 137 , my sleeves needed I be increased one more time for 64 stitches . Do I separate the body and the sleeves after all the increases ? Also should I discontinue working in raglan once u separate the sleeves . And so I include the raglan stitches of 2 in the sleeves ?

DROPS Design 09.01.2020 kl. 14:12:

Dear Mrs Methu, I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you mean here, have you make all increases for raglan, this means you have 418 stitches in size M and you are ready to work the dividing round which starts with 137 sts for back piece, then slip the next 72 sts for sleeve, etc..; this round is worked without increasing anymore. Happy knitting!

Karin Bak Østergaard 06.01.2020 - 22:45:

Iflg. opskriften skal der efter 1. omgang i bærestykket være 122 masker (M), men ved sammentælling i teksten bliver der kun 8+30+3+2+1(omslag)+10+1(omslag)+2+8+30+3+2+1(omslag)+10+1(omslag)+2: i alt 114 masker med et udgangspunkt på 110 masker (M). Hvordan skal jeg forholde mig til det? Trøjen er en fødselsdagsgave til den 8. februar, så giv gerne besked hurtigst muligt. På forhånd tak.

DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 14:18:

Hej Det är 2 omslag i A.1 och 2 omslag i A.3, tar du med dessa så får du ytterligare 8 maskor dvs totalt 122 . Lycka till!

Chhavi Methi 05.01.2020 - 06:18:

Till when do we have to continue increasing the sleeves ? And does it include raglan like of two stitches after the sleeves ? Do we have to continue the raglan line after the sleeves too ?

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 08:49:

Dear Mrs Methi, you increase for the sleeve on every other round a total of 25-29-30-32-34-35 times, then continue working the sleeves with holes (A.6/A.7) but without increasing thanks to the diagram, so that the holes created by the increases will continue, but no more stitches will be increased. Happy knitting!

Chhavi Methi 05.01.2020 - 05:35:

After the first vertical ridge of a1 has been completed ? Do I have to increase the raglan line too ? Or only sleeves are to be increased ? And my increased both together are also 4 stitches short when I have 16 plus 110 plus 11 plus 2 plus 38 plus (30 or 22??) two times . . I am not sure why

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Methi, I'm sorry, I don't get the number you are talking about, which size are you working and until where did you work the pattern?

Chhavi Methi 05.01.2020 - 05:24:

To continue the eyelet row along raglan line after increases on sleeves are done, work A.6 (= 2 stitches) over the first 2 stitches after raglan linen and A.7 over the last 2 stitches before raglan line towards sleeve. Which raglan line are we talking about ?

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Methi, after all increases are done, you will work the first 2 stitches in each sleeve as shown in A.6 and the last 2 stitches on sleeve as shown in A.7, so that the holes (increases for raglan) will continue along the K2 stitches as before, but no more stitch will be increased. Happy knitting!

Chhavi Methi 02.01.2020 - 03:42:

My first stitch in the round on this design shows a yarn over between two stitches (A1) chart , for strawberry swing 202-19 . I am confused . So should I start with a yarn over beginning of the row ?

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 16:02:

Dear Mrs Chhavi Methi, this pattern is worked in the round, and when working diagram A.1, you will start every other round with one yarn over. Happy knitting!

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