DROPS / 201 / 1

Spring Harvest by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Belle. The piece is worked top down with stripes and 2-colored leaf pattern in English rib on yoke. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-055
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-102-112-122-134-144 cm = 37 3/4”-40”-44”-48”-52 3/4”-56 1/2”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color 02, off white
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 11, old pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
21 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with leaf pattern and English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.15 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.15 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).

2-COLORED LEAF PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB (in the round):
The leaf pattern is worked in English rib as shown in diagrams A.3 and A.4. The other stitches are worked in reversed stockinette stitch; i.e. the stitches are purled as shown in diagram A.2.
To get the 2-colored effect, work stripes with alternately 1 round off-white and 1 round old pink. A.2 to A.4 start with a round of off-white as described in the text. Each time you either increase or decrease in A.3 and A.4, this will be on a round of old pink.

KNITTING TIP:
All stitch-numbers given when working English rib do not include the yarn overs; they belong to the knitted stitches and are therefore counted with them as 1 stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread in the side, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker thread and a total of 4 stitches increased on round). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. The yoke is worked with stripes and 2-colored leaf pattern in English rib. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 110-110-120-120-130-130 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and old pink. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round (= 11-11-12-12-13-13 repeats of 10 stitches). Continue this pattern until the piece measures approx. 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” from the cast-on edge mid front, but finish after a round of knitted stitches worked in the stitches from the previous round. Continue with yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Read description for 2-COLORED LEAF PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB (i.e. the whole yoke is worked in stripes as described above at the same time as you work leaf-pattern in English rib as shown in A.3 and A.4).
The first round is worked with off-white as follows: * Work A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3 (= 1 stitch), A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.4 (= 1 stitch) *, work from *-* a total of 11-11-12-12-13-13 times.
Continue this pattern. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue purling this stitch. On the last round in diagrams A.2 to A.4 increase 16-4-4-12-6-4 stitches evenly spaced (increase in the purl-sections) = 280-312-340-372-396-420 stitches.
When A.2 to A.4 have been completed, the piece measures approx. 27-27-27-28-28-28 cm = 10 5/8”-10 5/8”-10 5/8”-11”-11”-11” from the cast-on edge mid front. Continue the stripes without leaf pattern until the piece measures 27-27-27-28-30-32 cm = 10 5/8”-10 5/8”-10 5/8”-11”-11 3/4”-12 1/2” from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows (with the next color in the stripes): Purl 42-46-50-55-60-65 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 56-64-70-76-78-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), purl 84-92-100-110-120-130 stitches (= front piece), place the next 56-64-70-76-78-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and purl the remaining 42-46-50-55-60-65 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand.
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-200-220-240-264-288 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeves. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards – they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Start the round by one of the marker threads and continue with stripes in purl with alternately 1 round off-white and 1 round old pink.
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division, stop working stripes. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round (i.e. knit all rounds) and off-white.
When the piece measures 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-6-6-6-6 cm = 2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” a total of 4 times in all sizes = 200-216-236-256-280-304 stitches. When the piece measures 21-23-25-26-26-26 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 1/4”-10 1/4” from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 4-6-4-2-2-2 stitches evenly spaced = 204-222-240-258-282-306 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work A.5 in the round for approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Loosely bind off with knit. The sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 56-64-70-76-78-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-72-80-86-90-94 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards - it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round by the marker thread and continue with purl and stripes, with alternately 1 round off-white and 1 round old pink – adjust to match the yoke.
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division, stop working stripes. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round (i.e. knit all rounds) with off white.
When the piece measures 3-4-4-2-4-3 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-3/4”-1 1/2”-1 1/8” from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-1”-3/4”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 10-13-16-18-19-20 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-38-38-37-35-34 cm = 15”-15”-15”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke).
Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-1-0-2-1-0 stitches evenly spaced = 42-45-48-48-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work A.5 in the round for approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” (= 14-15-16-16-17-18 repeats of 3 stitches). Loosely bind off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-42-41-39-38 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/2”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= purl
= make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl
= yarn over and stitch knitted together
= yarn over and stitch purled together
= work 5 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn-over and knitted stitch together, but wait to slip the stitch from the needle, * make 1 yarn over right needle and knit the stitch and yarn over together without slipping the stitch off the needle *, work from*-* a total of 2 times = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased)
= decrease 2 stitches towards the left as follows: slip the first stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purl + stitch and yarn over), pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 2 stitches towards the right as follows: slip the first stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch which was slipped back onto the left needle and slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 4 stitches as follows: slip the first stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, slip the purled stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, place the next stitch and yarn over on an extra needle in front of the piece, purl the next stitch on the left needle, pass the slipped purled stitch over the purled stitch just worked, place this stitch back on the left needle, pass the next stitch and yarn-over over the stitch you placed back on the left needle and slip this stitch onto the right needle, pass the first stitch and yarn-over over this stitch, place the stitch and yarn over from the extra needle back onto the left needle, slip the stitch on the right needle back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn over (which were on the extra needle) over the last stitch placed on the left needle and slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 4 stitches decreased)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 1 in stitch from previous round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

Carmen Giguère 01.10.2019 - 15:34:

Vu que je tricote ce pull en rond, j’aimerais avoir des explications sur la façon de tricoter le point de feuilles en côtes anglaises. Merci

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 15:38:

Bonjour Mme Giguère, le point de feuilles se tricote en suivant les diagrammes, suivez bien la légende de chaque symbole, vous trouverez également ici, des vidéos des différentes techniques utilisées dans ce modèle. Bon tricot!

Laura 21.08.2019 - 21:01:

Ben er mee bezig, wordt erg mooi maar zeker geen patroon voor beginners.

Käthi Nicol-Moor 15.07.2019 - 14:59:

Meine Tochter wünscht sich diesen schönen Pullover, jedoch nur einfarbig. Ergibt das den gleichen Effekt?

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 16:21:

Liebe Frau Nicol-Moor, einfarbig wird das Blattmuster etwas wie fl-046 und fl-047 neueste Kollektion aussehen, das Muster ist zwar unterschiedlich, aber mit diesen beiden neuen Modellen haben Sie so eine Idee, wie ein anderes einfarbiges Blattmuster aussehen kann. Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen auch gerne - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dea 14.07.2019 - 08:18:

Buongiorno. Siamo sicuri delle misure del cartamodello? Il collo dice che pe la taglia M è 20 cm più 2 di bordino. La cosa è strana perchè se fosse così in foto dovrebbe risultare più accollato, ma da quello che vedo e da come risulta il mio è molto più ampio.

Dea 13.07.2019 - 21:02:

Ho bisogno un chiarimento. Mi trovo alla fine del penultimo giro di A2 - A4 e ora devo aumentare 4 m (taglia m) nell'ultimo giro e devo farlo solo nelle sezioni a rovescio. Come devo procedere? Dal calcolo totale tolgo le 11 m di A3 e divido per 4? Ovvero 308 m totali meno 11 m (A3) ottengo 297 m e queste diviso i 4 aumenti avrò da aumentare ogni 74 - 75 m... ok?

Bettina 11.07.2019 - 21:01:

Ich möchte den Pullover in Größe M Stricken. Ich muss 202 Maschen zunehmen, dass ist in der Anleitung wie folgt beschrieben: In der letzten Runde von A2 bis A4 16-4-4-12-6-4 gleichmäßig verteilt zunehmen. Können Sie mir das erklären . Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:30:

Liebe Bettina, Sie wiederholen (A.2, A.3, A.2, A.4) insgesamt 11 Mal in der Runde, dh A.3 und A.4 sind das Blattmuster (= 1 M bleibt wenn die Diagramm fertig sind), und in jedem A.2 werden Sie insgesamt 9 Maschen zunehmen, so haben Sie (13+1+13+1) x 11 Mal = 308 M, bei der letzten Runde in A.2 bis A.4 nehmen Sie 4 M zu = 312 M haben Sie jetzt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Joke Remmen 03.05.2019 - 17:18:

In het patroon staat 1 naald naturel en 1 naald oudroze. Moet dat niet zijn: 1 RIBBEL naturel en 1 RIBBEL oudrose. De kleuren lopen anders in elkaar over. Laat het telpatroon alleen de rechtse naalden zien?

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 16:42:

Dag Joke,

Nee, je breit de strepen steeds in averecht en in het telpatroon staan alle naalden aangegeven.

Lise 20.03.2019 - 20:21:

20/3 kl 20.15 mangler bl.a. mønsterdiagram A3 og A4

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 08:19:

hei Lise. Vi har nå dobbelsjekket, og alle diagrammene (fra A.1-A.5) ligger ute, og er synlige. Har du problemer med å se dem uansett hvaslags enhet du bruker (mobil, PC, nettbrett)? Hilsen DROPS

Marlou 02.03.2019 - 11:52:

In het patroon staat maak 1 omslag, 1 steek averecht afhalen op de rechter naald. Betekend dat ik de steek van de rechternaald dan moet overhalen over de omslag?

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 20:27:

Dag Marlou,

Nee, je maakt 1 omslag en dan haal je de volgende steek averecht af. Dus je steekt de rechter naald in de steek op de linker naald alsof je hem averecht gaat breien, maar je breit de steek vervolgens niet (je haalt hem alleen af zodat hij op de rechter naald staat)

Marlou 17.02.2019 - 09:27:

Klopt het opgegeven benodigde materiaal?

DROPS Design 17.02.2019 kl. 19:17:

Dag Marlou,Ja, de opgegeven hoeveelheid zou moeten kloppen.

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