DROPS / 201 / 4

Pink Moon by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with garter stitch, lace pattern and 2-colored English rib.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-148
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Measurements: Approx. 50 cm = 19 3/4” in height measured along the middle. Length measured along top approx. 190-198 cm = 74 3/4”-77 3/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color 3250, light old pink
100 g color 0100, off white
100 g color 4088, heather
50 g color 8112, ice blue
50 g color 6347, blue purple

KNITTING GAUGE:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 80 cm = 32”.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 95.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
ROW 1 from the right side: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker here * knit 1, 1 yarn over and pass the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, insert a marker here, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1. Do not turn the piece; the next row is also worked from the right side (= 2 stitches increased).

ROW 2 from the right side: Knit 3 (the marker sits here), * 1 yarn over, pass the next stitch onto right needle as if to purl, purl next yarn over and stitch together *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left (marker is here), knit 3. Turn the piece; the next row is worked from the wrong side.

ROW 3 from the wrong side: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker sits here), * 1 yarn over, pass next stitch onto right needle as if to purl, purl next yarn over and stitch together*, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left (marker sits here), knit 2, 1 yarn over and knit 1. Do not turn the piece; the next row is also worked from the wrong side (= 2 stitches increased).

ROW 4 from the wrong side: Knit 4 (marker sits here), * knit the next yarn over and stitch together, 1 yarn over and pass the next stitch onto right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left (marker sits here), knit 4. Turn the piece; the next row is worked from the right side.

After ROWS 1-4 you have increased a total of 4 stitches (2 stitches on each side). Now these stitches are worked into the English rib.

ROW 5 from the right side: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1. There are now 2 stitches left before the marker, move the marker here and work the 2 stitches into the English rib as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and pass the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl. Now the 2 increased stitches have been worked into the English rib. Work as follows over the next stitches: * Knit together the next yarn over and stitch, 1 yarn over and pass the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left (you have worked to the marker). Remove the marker and work the next 2 stitches into the English rib as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and pass the next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl. Now the 2 increased stitches have been worked into the English rib. Insert the marker here. Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased).

Then repeat ROWS 2-5 onwards (= 4 stitches increased on each repeat).

SHAPING:
Dampen the shawl and lay out carefully in the right shape. Allow it to dry. Repeat this process after each wash.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle so that you have room for all the stitches. Due to the different textures in the shawl, you will need to shape it when you have finished – read SHAPING in the explanations above.

SHAWL:
Cast on 13 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and light old pink. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased).

Work ROWS 1-2 three more times (a total of 4 times) = 29 stitches on needle.

Then work the next row as follows:
ROW 3 (= right side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 8 times, knit 3 (= 10 stitches increased) = 39 stitches on needle.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 41 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

Work ROWS 1-2 a total of 10 times = 81 stitches on needle.

Change to off white and work as follows:
ROW 5: Knit 2 stitches in the first stitch (work in both front and back loops), 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 83 stitches.
ROW 6: Knit 2 stitches in first stitch (work in both front and back loops), 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 85 stitches.

ROW 7 (= right side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these 2 stitches (= 29 stitches increased) = 114 stitches on needle.
ROW 8 (= wrong side): 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 116 stitches on needle.

ROW 9: Knit 2 stitches in first stitch (work in both front and back loops), 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 118 stitches on needle.
ROW 10: Knit 2 stitches in first stitch (work in both front and back loops), 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 120 stitches on needle.

Now work 2-colored English rib with light old pink and off white as follows from the right side:
Change to light old pink and work ROW 1 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB – read description above (= 2 stitches increased). * Change to off white and work ROW 2 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to light old pink and work ROW 3 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB (= 2 stitches increased). Change to off white and work ROW 4 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to light old pink and work ROW 5 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB (= 2 stitches increased) *.
Work from *-* until ROWS 2-5 have been worked a total of 8 times in height = 154 stitches on needle. Do not turn the piece; the next row is also worked from the right side.

ROW 11 (= right side): Change to off white and knit all stitches; all the stitches with a yarn over are knitted together with the yarn over. Turn the piece.
ROW 12 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches. Turn the piece.

Change to ice blue and work as follows:
ROW 13: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 155 stitches on needle.
ROW 14: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 156 stitches on needle.

ROW 15 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 2, * 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 2 together *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left and knit 3 (= 31 stitches increased) = 187 stitches on needle.
ROW 16 (= wrong side): Knit 21, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 188 stitches on needle.

ROW 17: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 189 stitches on needle.
ROW 18: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 190 stitches on needle.

Change to off white and work as follows:
Work A.1 over 8 stitches, work A.2 until there are 8 stitches left (29 repeats in width), work A.3 over 8 stitches. Work the diagram 1 time in height; there are now 206 stitches on the needle.

Change to blue purple and work as follows:
ROW 19 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 207 stitches on needle.
ROW 20 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 208 stitches on needle.

ROW 21 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these 2 stitches (= 69 stitches increased) = 277 stitches on needle.
ROW 22 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 278 stitches on needle.

ROW 23 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 279 stitches on needle.
ROW 24 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 280 stitches on needle.

Now work 2-colored English rib with heather and off white.
Change to heather, work ROW 1 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB – read description above. * Change to off white and work ROW 2 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to heather and work ROW 3 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to off white and work ROW 4 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to heather and work ROW 5 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB *.
Work from *-* until ROWS 2-5 have been worked a total of 12 times in height (= 50 stitches increased) = 330 stitches on needle. Do not turn the piece; the next row is also worked from the right side.

Change to off white and work as follows:
ROW 25 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 331 stitches on needle.
ROW 26 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 332 stitches on needle.

ROW 27 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 333 stitches on needle.
ROW 28 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 334 stitches on needle.

ROW 29 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 335 stitches on needle.
ROW 30 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 336 stitches on needle.

Change to light old pink and work ROWS 29-30 ten times (10 ridges where you increase 2 stitches per ridge = 20 stitches increased) = 356 stitches on needle.

Change to off white and work as follows:
ROW 31 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 357 stitches on needle.
ROW 32 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 358 stitches on needle.

ROW 33 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 359 stitches on needle.
ROW 34 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 360 stitches on needle.

ROW 35: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 361 stitches on needle.
ROW 36: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 362 stitches on needle.

Now work 2-colored English rib with blue purple and ice blue.
Change to blue purple and work ROW 1 of 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB – read description above. * Change to ice blue and work ROW 2 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to blue purple and work ROW 3 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to ice blue and work ROW 4 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB. Change to blue purple and work ROW 5 of 2- COLORED ENGLISH RIB *.
Work from *-* until ROWS 2-5 have been worked a total of 8 times in height (34 stitches increased) = 396 stitches on needle.

Change to heather and work as follows:
ROW 37: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 397 stitches on needle.
ROW 38: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 398 stitches on needle.

ROW 39 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 399 stitches on needle.
ROW 40 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 400 stitches on needle.

ROW 41: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 402 stitches on needle.
ROW 42: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 2 stitches increased) = 404 stitches on needle.

Change to light old pink and work as follows:
Work A.4 over 4 stitches, work A.5 until there are 4 stitches left (66 repeats in width), work A.6 over 4 stitches. Work the diagrams 1 time in height, there are now 420 stitches on the needle.

Change to heather and work as follows:
ROW 43: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 421 stitches on needle.
ROW 44: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 422 stitches on needle.

ROW 45 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 423 stitches on needle.
ROW 46 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 424 stitches on needle.

ROW 47: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 425 stitches on needle

.
ROW 48: Knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased) = 426 stitches on the needle.

BINDING OFF:
On the next row from the right side, bind off with an i-cord bind off. It is important that the bind-off edge is loose so that the shawl has a good shape and hangs nicely. You can use a size larger needle for casting off; make sure you work loose stitches.
Work and bind off as follows: * Knit 2 and then knit twisted together the next 2 stitches. Slip the 3 stitches from the right needle back onto the left needle (in the order they are in) *, work from *-* until all stitches on the left needle have been bind off and you have 3 stitches left on the right needle. Slip these 3 stitches onto the left needle and bind them off in knit. Cut and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.10.2019
Correction: ROW 27 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and knit these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 333 stitches on needle.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. There will be a hole.
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Mokrima 24.05.2020 - 18:06:

Hat dieses Modell Randmaschen? 2?

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 10:05:

Liebe Mokrima, wenn man Patentmuster strickt, gibt es 1 Randmasche auf beiden Seite, aber sonnst stricken Sie keine - und beginnen die Reihen mit 1 Umschlag wie in diesem Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Karin 11.12.2019 - 15:14:

Vielen. lieben Dank für die schnelle Beantwortung meiner Frage.

Karin 11.12.2019 - 10:56:

Reihe 3 und 4 habe ich gestrickt. Danach steht "Die 1.-2. Reihe insgesamt 10 x arbeiten ....." Nun meine Frage: 1. und 2. Reihe - kraus re. oder 3. und 4. Reihe mit Loch?

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 13:01:

Liebe Karin, Sie wiederholen die 1. -2. REIHE (= die 2 Reihen die Sie am Anfang gestrickt haben, und schon 4 x wiederholt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dea 27.09.2019 - 17:23:

Si alla fine ho fatto il FERRO 33. Grazie. :)

Dea 27.09.2019 - 17:21:

Si ho fatto il FERRO 33 e viene giusto. Grazie ^_^

Dea 27.09.2019 - 15:57:

Scusate lavorando il FERRO 27 rimangono 3 magli e non va bene nemmno lavorare comeil FERRO 21 perchè è un'altra cosa, comunque dove sta l'errore? Grazie

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 17:00:

Buongiorno Dea. Inoltreremo la sua segnalazione al settore design. Provi a verificare se il ferro 27 deve essere lavorato come il ferro 33. La correzione verrà inserita nel testo online. Buon lavoro!

Dea 27.09.2019 - 15:39:

Buongiorno, sto lavorando la RIGA 27, ma seguendo ciò che è scritto non rimangono 2 maglie, per otternerle devo lavorare come la RIGA 21...c'è qualche errore? Grazie.

Claudia 17.06.2019 - 16:45:

Spett.le Drops, grazie mille per tutti i modelli fantastici; avrei una domanda, per i gomitoli dei primi tre colori: 100 g colore 3250, rosa antico chiaro 100 g colore 0100, panna 100 g colore 4088, erica .... si usano completamente o si usa parte dei 100 gr... ??? Perché vorrei fare questo scialle con vari avanzi di altri progetti... GRAZIE MILLE DI NUOVO.

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 08:59:

Buongiorno Claudia. Le consigliamo di prevedere la quantità di filato indicata nel modello. Il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia è a sua disposizione per ulteriori consigli. Buon lavoro!

Astrid 25.05.2019 - 11:45:

Mir ist nicht klar, wie ich die Umschläge in der folgenden Reihe stricken muss. Verschränkt, so dass kein Loch ensteht oder rechts, dann entsteht ja ein Loch

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 09:57:

Liebe Astrid, die Umschläge werden "normal" gestrickt, dh nicht verschränkt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dea 07.05.2019 - 18:33:

Esiste un video che spieghi la prima parte? SCIALLE: Avviare 13 maglie con i ferri circolari n° 3,5 ed il colore rosa antico chiaro. Lavorare 1 ferro a diritto sul rovescio del lavoro. Lavorare il ferro successivo come segue: FERRO 1 (= diritto del lavoro): 1 maglia gettata, 1 maglia diritto, 1 maglia gettata e lavorare a diritto fino alla fine del ferro (= 2 maglie aumentate). La gettata ad inizio ferro è particolare in un lavoro in piano.

DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 19:22:

Buongiorno Dea. L'istruzione è corretta. Purtroppo un video che spieghi la prima parte dello scialle non è disponibile. Deve fare un gettato, avvolgendo il filo tutto intorno al ferro e poi lavorare 1 m diritto. In questo modo il bordo è meno tirato. Buon lavoro!

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