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  1. Free patterns
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Perfect Day by DROPS Design

Knitted shoulder piece in 4 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with stockinette stitch and moss stitch. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, asymmetric, chunky knits, jacket, seed st, stocking stitch, top down, vest

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DROPS 196-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-133
Yarn group C + C + C + C or F
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL – XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 128-134-134-142-142-150 cm = 50 3/8”-52 3/4”-52 3/4”-55 3/4”-55 3/4”-59”
Full length: 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm = 29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color 12, moss green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
5.5 stitches in width and 7 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 4 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 20 MM = US 36: length 80 cm = 32”.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 		from 4.50 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PIECE:

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MOSS STITCH:
ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROW 2: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
Repeat row 2.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work new stitch in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 82 stitches) minus the 2 stitches in moss stitch in each side (= 4 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 7.8. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over alternately after each 7th and 8th stitch (approx.). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHOULDER PIECE - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down and sewn together in sides under the sleeves.

SHOULDER PIECE:
Cast on 35-37-37-39-39-41 stitches with circular needle size 20 mm = US 36 and 4 strands Air. Work MOSS STITCH - read description above, for 10 cm = 4” – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Now work pattern as follows: 2 stitches in moss stitch, stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left, 2 stitches in moss stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 20 cm = 8” cast on 4 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows for sleeves = 43-45-45-47-47-49 stitches. Continue with pattern as follows: 6 stitches in moss stitch, stockinette stitch until there are 6 stitches left, 6 stitches in moss stitch. When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm = 14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2” increase 1 stitch inside the 6 stitches in moss stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 6 cm = 2 3/8” a total of 3 times (= 6 stitches increased) = 49-51-51-53-53-55 stitches. When the piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm = 13 3/8”-14 1/4”-15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4” from where you cast on stitches for sleeves, bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for sleeves = 41-43-43-45-45-47 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 2 stitches in moss stitch in each side until the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from where you bind off stitches for sleeves. Knit 1 row where you increase 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly over the stitches in stockinette stitch - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches. Now work moss stitch over all stitches for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off with purl over knit and knit over purl. If the bind-off edge is tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams in one go – see broken line in sketch. Sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = the sketch shows how the garment looks after assembly
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Sybill wrote:

Guten Tag Frau, die Maße an der Skizze stimmen nicht überein mit der schriftlichen Anleitung. Sind an der Skizze Zentimeter angegeben? Vielen Dank

06.09.2023 - 02:54

country flag Sybill wrote:

Hallo guten Tag, die Maße an der Skizze stimmen nicht überein mit der schriftlichen Anleitung. Sind an der Skizze Zentimeter angegeben? Vielen Dank

06.09.2023 - 02:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sybill, die Maßen in der Skizze sind in cm angegeben: in 1. Größe z.B. werden 35 Maschen angeschlagen = ca 64 cm - dann werden 4 Maschen (= ca 7 cm) beidseitig angeschlagen so sind es 7+64+7= 78 cm in der Breite. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

06.09.2023 - 09:21

country flag Karen Christensen wrote:

Kan man bruge opskriften med samme garn og pind 8 ??

08.09.2022 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karen, Da skal du finde en opskrift med en strikkefasthed på 10-11 masker på 10 cm og bruge 2 tråde DROPS Air (i stedet for 4 tråde) : Skulderstykke - 9-11 m

09.09.2022 - 11:52

country flag Lilly Vitsák wrote:

Finnes det en oppskrift på dette plagget i et tynnere garn enn 4-tråder air? Har lyst å lage en slik men syns det blir for tykt å strikke med nevnte garnalternativ.

21.08.2022 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lilly, Hvis du bruker søkeboksen med stikkord du trenger, får du opp alle oppskrifter som passer dine stikkord. God fornøyelse!

22.08.2022 - 10:35

country flag Rebecca wrote:

Hello, in an earlier question you said Dear Suzanne, you could only use Polaris (group F) I’m thinking of making size M or L, how many balls of Polaris would I need please? Thanks

15.05.2022 - 10:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebecca, for size M, you would need: 1200m (400g of Air, which has a yardage 50g/150m), which means you will need 34 balls of Polaris (Yardage 100g/36m). For size L you would need 4 more balls of Polaris; 38 balls. Happy knitting!

15.05.2022 - 23:22

country flag Luize Avrigeanu wrote:

Hi, for this pattern I would like to use karisma merino in one strand As I have only 200 gr do you think it would be enough?

26.04.2022 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Avrigeanu, this pattern is worked with 4 strands Air = yarn group C and a tension of 5,5 sts x 7 rows in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm; you won't get the same tension with 1 strand Karisma (yarn group B is not an alternative here). Find other patterns for shoulder pieces you can work with Karisma here. Happy knitting!

27.04.2022 - 08:12

country flag Caroline Lalanne wrote:

Hej, mönstret är underbart! Dock lite "chunky" för min smak. Är följande omräkning rimligt: Om jag skulle välja att använda två trådar Air (grupp E istället för F) att dubblera antal maskor och justera stickor utifrån det?

24.03.2022 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caroline. Det bästa är om du ser vilken stickfasthet du får med två trådar Air och sedan beräknar antal maskor utifrån det genom att se på måtten längst ner, på så sätt får du precis den storlek du önskar. Mvh DROPS Design

25.03.2022 - 10:33

country flag Becky Jancosko wrote:

Before I purchase the yarn for this pattern I want to make sure that I have the correct information. The pattern calls for Sz 20mm or 36 (US) needles. This size needle seems extremely large for the yarn that is called for. I realize that you use 4 strands. Could you please check this and clarify. Thanks.

23.02.2022 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jancosko, this pattern is worked with 4 strands Air knitted together as just 1, and you should have a tension of 5,5 sts x 7 rows in stocking stitch with these 4 strands = 4"x4" with needle size 20 mm/US36. Remember to check your tension first. Happy knitting!

24.02.2022 - 10:21

country flag Suzanne wrote:

I would prefer not do this with 4 strands. Not confident about this. Can you suggest an alternative thicker wool weight or product that would give similar results?

14.11.2021 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Suzanne, you could only use Polaris (group F) or 2 strands of Wish (group E) as an alternative. Happy knitting!

14.11.2021 - 18:11

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Skizze: unten steht (bei der kleinsten Größe 78 cm, oben 93 cm. Also unterschied von 15 cm. Die Skizze sieht aber nicht so aus also oben 15 cm Unterschied gäbe. In der Strickanleitung ergibt sich ein Unterschied von nur 8 Maschen...\r\nIst es so richtig?\r\nHerzliche Grüße \r\nJohanna

30.03.2021 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, Maschenprobe ist 5.5M=10 cm so sind die 35 angeschlagenen Maschen ca 64 cm; mit den 4 Maschen beidseitig sind es 43 Maschen = ca 78 cm un die 51 abgeketteten Maschen sind ca 93 cm - so stimmen alle Angaben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.04.2021 - 09:10

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