DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 4.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 65.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Flora Viola

Crocheted sweater with raglan in DROPS Puna. Piece is crocheted top down in an angle with fans, lace pattern and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 196-20
DROPS design: Pattern pu-035
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 112-118-126-136-148-158 cm = 44"-46½"-49½"-53½"- 58¼"-62¼"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"

Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g color no 11, plum

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET GAUGE:
16 treble crochets in width and 5.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 4.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 65.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION:
At beginning of every round with treble crochets replace first treble crochet with 4 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.
On every round with single crochets replace first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. Choose diagram for your size.
1 fan = 2 chain stitches + 1 bobble + 4 chain stitches + 1 bobble + 2 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done on 1 round with treble crochets.
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 2 single crochets, work the next 2 treble crochets together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 treble crochet in every single crochet until 4 single crochets remain on round, work the next 2 treble crochets together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 2 single crochets.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round top down. First work a yoke. Then divide the piece into body and sleeves and continue in the round separately.

YOKE:
Work 102-102-111-116-116-125 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Puna and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch (= first single crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, skip first chain stitch, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 3-3-5-3-3-5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch on round = 88-88-96-100-100-108 single crochets.
Then work pattern as follows:
Round begins in transition between back piece and sleeve (i.e. first work over sleeve, front piece, sleeve and finally back piece).
Right sleeve: Work A.1 over first stitch, A.2 over 1 stitch, A.3 over 1 stitch.
Front piece: Work A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches, A.5 over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches, A.6 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.7 over 1 stitch (= mid front), A.8 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.9 over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches, A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches.
Left sleeve: Work as right sleeve.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Repeat A.4, A.5 and A.9 vertically. Work A.2 until arrow for your size, then work A.4 over these stitches.
When A.1, A.3, A.6, A.7 and A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 55-55-59-63-63-67 single crochets and 4 fans on each front piece/back piece and 29-31-39-37-33-31 single crochets on each sleeve = 168-172-196-200-192-196 single crochets + 8 fan pattern in total.
Piece measures approx. 14 cm = 5½" measured along shoulder.
Then work as follows:
Right sleeve: Work A.1 over first stitch, A.4 over the next 27-29-37-35-31-29 stitches, A.3 over 1 stitch.
Front piece: Work A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches, A.5 2 times in total in width, A.6 over the next 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.7 (= 1 stitch = mid front), A.8 over the next 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.9 2 times in total in width, A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches.
Left sleeve: Work as right sleeve.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm 8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜"-12¼" in total, measured along the shoulder (i.e. approx. 7-9-10-12-14-15 rounds after first repetition of pattern A.1, A.3 and A.6 to A.8).
There are now approx. 65-71-77-89-93-97 single crochets/treble crochets and approx. 6-6-6-6-6-8 fans on each front piece/back piece and approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 single crochets/treble crochets on each sleeve = approx. 220-244-272-300-308-320 single crochets/treble crochets + approx. 12-12-12-12-12-16 fan pattern in total.
Now divide the piece for sleeves and body as follows:
Right sleeve: Skip sleeve stitches (= approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches) and work 6-6-6-8-10-12 chain stitches under sleeve.
Front piece: Work pattern as before.
Left sleeve: Skip sleeve stitches (= approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches) and work 6-6-6-8-10-12 chain stitches under sleeve.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
There are now approx. 71-77-83-93-103-109 single crochets/treble crochets/chain stitches (including chain stitches under sleeve) + approx. 6-6-6-6-6-8 fans on each front piece/back piece = approx. 142-154-166-186-206-218 single crochets/treble crochets and approx. 12-12-12-12-12-16 fan pattern in total.

BODY:
Work 1 round with pattern as before and 1 single crochet/treble crochet in every chain stitch under sleeve. Displace round so that it begins mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker mid under both sleeves.
Then work pattern as before but decrease stitches in each side as follows:
Front piece: Work A.4 over the first 2-2-4-4-5-8 stitches, A.10 over the next 5 stitches + fan pattern + 1 stitch (adjust which round to begin on according to pattern), work pattern as before (i.e. continue to increase mid front) until 8-8-10-10-11-14 stitches remain and 1 fan before marker, work A.11 over 1 stitch + fan pattern + 5 stitches, work A.4 over the next 2-2-4-4-5-8 stitches.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
Continue pattern like this.
I.e. on every round with treble crochets increase stitches on each side of A.7 (i.e. increase stitches in A.6 and A.8) and decrease stitches in A.10 and A.11 (when decreasing/increasing treble crochets increase 2 treble crochets on each side of A.7 (= 8 treble crochets increased) and decrease 1 treble crochet in every A.10/A.11 (= 4 treble crochets decreased in total), i.e. increase 4 treble crochets in total on round).
Decrease pattern in the sides and increase for new pattern mid front/mid back. When A.10 and A.11 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue decrease in treble crochets as before (i.e. now there is no decrease in the fan pattern).
When piece measures 20 cm = 8" from where body was divided from sleeve, measured along the side on the shortest, increase stitches as before, but do not increase for fans, i.e. work all stitches increased in single crochets/treble crochets.
When piece measures 25-25-26-26-26-26 cm = 9¾"-9¾"-10¼"-10¼"-10¼"-10¼" from where body was divided sleeve, measured along the shortest (i.e. approx. 11 rounds with treble crochets = 11 times increased), work 1 edge as follows:
Work * 1 single crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = ⅜" *, work from *-* in the round, adjust to finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first single crochet.
Make sure edge is not too tight, skip fewer stitches if needed. Fasten off. Sweater measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝" measured from shoulder and down on the shortest.

SLEEVE:
Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch under sleeve, work 1 single crochet/treble crochet in each of the 2-2-2-3-4-5 chain stitches under sleeve (adjust whether to work single crochet or treble crochet according to pattern), work 1 single crochet/treble crochet in each of the approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches skipped for sleeve and finish with 1 single crochet/treble crochet in each of the last 3-3-3-4-5-6 chain stitches under sleeve = approx. 51-57-65-69-71-75 single crochets/treble crochets.
Continue in the round according to A.4.
When sleeve measures 2 cm = ¾", decrease 2 stitches under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 5-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm = 2"-1⅛"-1"-1"-1"-¾" 8-11-13-13-14-15 times in total = approx. 35-36-39-43-43-45 stitches.
Continue pattern until piece measures 43-42-41-40-38-37 cm = 17"-16½"-16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½", now work 1 edge around the sleeve as follows: Work * 1 single crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = ⅜" *, work from *-* around the entire sleeve, adjust to finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first single crochet. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck as follows: Begin mid on top of shoulder, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in 1 stitch, work * 1 single crochet in next stitch, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = 1⅛" *, work from *-* in the round as follows, adjust to finish round with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first single crochet. Make sure edge is not too tight at the neck, skip fewer stitches if needed. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = treble crochet
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain stitch
symbols = Bobble: Work 1 treble crochet in next single crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 3 treble crochets in same single crochet the same way, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
symbols = work 2 treble crochets together as follows:* Make 2 yarn overs, insert hook in next stitch, get the yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull through the 2 next loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).
symbols = first round has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in/around stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (91)

country flag Ester Montero wrote:

El pasado día 2 les hice una pregunta, como tengo el jersey parado, agradeceré que en cuanto puedan me digan una respuesta. Muchas gracias por adelantado.

07.12.2023 - 10:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ester, puedes ver la respuesta debajo.

11.12.2023 - 00:21

country flag Ester Montero wrote:

¿Es posible que las talla XL tengan más puntos que la XXXL en este apartado: Manga y total? GRACIAS. Después de haber trabajado A.1, A.3, A.6, A.7 y A.8 una vez verticalmente, hay 55-55-59-63-63-67 puntos bajos y 4 abanicos en cada pieza del frente/pieza de la espalda y 29-31-39-37-33-31 puntos bajos en cada manga = 168-172-196-200-192-196 puntos bajos + 8 patrones de abanicos en total.

02.12.2023 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ester, el número de puntos en las mangas depende del diagrama. En este punto de la labor, hay más puntos en las tallas más pequeñas pero más adelante tendremos más puntos de nuevo en las tallas más grandes. Este número es solo para el punto donde pasamos del diagrama A.2 al diagrama A.4. El patrón está correcto.

11.12.2023 - 00:21

country flag Teresa Tarchi wrote:

È possibile lo schema completo? Non riesco con queste spiegazioni a capire come fare, non sono esperta in materia, acquistando lo schema penso di riuscire.Grazie saluti

09.02.2023 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Teresa, i modelli DROPS sono tutti gratuiti, non si possono acquistare e le spiegazioni sono quelle riportate nel modello. Se ha bisogno di aiuto durante la lavorazione può compilare il modulo dei commenti o rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2023 - 16:15

country flag Pia Husted wrote:

Da garnet Puna næsten ikke fås nogen steder mere, kan i rådgive hvad der er den bedste erstatning?

18.01.2023 - 13:34

country flag Ana Luisa Guillen wrote:

Como me descargo el patrón?\r\nNo veo ningún link

13.04.2022 - 13:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana Luisa, para descargar el patrón tienes que dar click al botón de imprimir. Cuando te salga las opciones de impresión en tu ordenador y puedas seleccionar una impresora, deberías hacer click en guardar como pdf.

14.04.2022 - 17:30

country flag Veerle Van Deuren wrote:

Beste, op de foto zie ik dat er op een gegeven moment midden voor opnieuw een waaier begint, maar ik vind dit niet terug in de tekst. Ik heb nu 16 cm gehaakt sinds de splitsing van lijf en armen. Ik ben blijven meerderen in A6 en A8, wanneer moet ik dan opnieuw een waaiermotief beginnen? Alvast veel dank!

23.10.2021 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Als A.6 en A.8 één keer in de hoogte zijn gehaakt, dan past er een nieuwe herhaling van A.6 en A.8 in de breedte, dus op het zelfde moment als wanneer je dit gedaan hebt op de pas, begin je een nieuwe waaier.

26.10.2021 - 11:21

country flag Debbie Reed wrote:

I am just starting this drops (196-20) pattern and do not see diagram for A4 and A5. Please advise what is needed for these rows. Thank You

10.08.2021 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Debbie, A.4 and A.5 are directly above the schematic drawing. Happy crocheting!

10.08.2021 - 16:36

country flag Tina wrote:

Hi, I'm just starting on this pattern and am not sure about which size to choose because I'm usually a Large, ( My chest measurement is 40" or 102cm) but the measurements for 'Small' is already too big for me. What size should I choose to make this please? Thank you :))

27.07.2021 - 12:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Tina! Please look at measurements of the finished garment on the size chart at the end of the pattern. Happy knitting!

27.07.2021 - 14:00

country flag Joke Zwegers wrote:

Ik heb nu een uitleg gekregen maar snap nog niets van de werkwijze van het tel patroon van de trui Flora Viola Telpatroon voor Drops 196-20 ik ben gewend om een patroon te lezen dat in de ronte wordt afgebeeld . Ik heb al zeker 6 mandelas gehaakt dus ben al ervaren als haakster maar deze patroonen nog nooit gezien zonde dat ik het niet snap want het ziet er heel leuk uit maar ik snap er niets makkelijker dat toer voor toer beschreven.. wordt

22.06.2021 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joke,

In het patroon staat uitgebreid beschreven welke telpatronen je precies moet haken en over hoeveel steken. Lees het patroon goed door voordat je begint. Misschien heb je ook wat aan de uitleg over het volgen van een telpatroon voor haken bij de meest gestelde vragen.

Mocht je er nog niet uit komen, geef dan gerust aan op welk punt het blijft haken, dan kunnen we je wellicht beter helpen.

28.06.2021 - 13:08

country flag Cécile wrote:

Bonjour. Je viens de finir A10 et A11. Si j ai bien compris il faut continuer à faire des diminutions sous les bras. Par contre je ne comprends pas ce qu il faut faire devant. Sur la photo je vois qu au centre du devant il y a à nouveau A6-A7-A8. Comment faire cela? Merci

02.06.2021 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cécile, au milieu devant et au milieu dos, vous continuez à répéter A.6-A.8 en hauteur comme avant: vous créez de nouveaux points d'éventails, et en même temps, vous diminuez au milieu sous les manches pour éviter que le pull ne devienne trop large. Bon crochet!

02.06.2021 - 13:17