DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Green Envy

Crocheted jacket in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked in a square with fans, lace pattern and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 196-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-055
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 20, dark gray
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 38, olive

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET GAUGE:
20 treble crochets in width and 7.5 rows in height = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
Diagram A.4 measures approx. 2½ cm in width.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6.
The hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
On each round which begins with 1 double crochet, start with 3 chain stitches (which replace the first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
On each round which begins with 1 treble crochet, start with 4 chain stitches (which replace the first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
On each round which begins with 1 single crochet, start with 1 chain stitch (which replaces the first single crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

STRIPES:
When the piece measures 5, 10, 20 and 36 cm from the middle (adjust so that the next round is a round without double crochet groups) work the next round with dark gray. Cut and fasten the dark gray strand when the round is finished. Do not cut the olive strand, this is carried forwards on the wrong side, but make sure it is not tight.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back piece is worked first in the round from the middle outwards, in a square, then worked back and forth over each front piece. The sleeves are worked in the round top down and sewn onto the square.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked in STRIPES – read description above.
Work A.1 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and olive. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time, repeat the last 2 rounds onwards with increases as before. Continue until the square measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' (i.e. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'' from the middle), adjust so that next round is a round as last round in diagram A.1 (i.e. a round with 1 single crochet in the middle of each side, so it is easier to divide for armhole).
Now work the armholes as follows: Work over the first side as before (up to and including the first corner), work 48-52-55-59-62-62 chain stitches, skip the first half of the next side for sleeve, work the second half to the corner, the next side as before as far as the corner, work the first half of the last side as before, work 48-52-55-59-62-62 chain stitches, skip the last half of the last side for sleeve and work the last corner as before.
On the next round continue the pattern as before; around the chain stitches for the sleeves work pattern as before (i.e. you work the same number of repeats as you skipped, including the increase in the corner).
Continue in the round until the piece measures a total of 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'', adjust so that you finish with 1 round of treble crochet groups (i.e. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'' from middle of square). Cut the strand.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start in the middle of the first corner.
The first row is worked from the wrong side as follows: Work A.2b (i.e. 1 double crochet + 2 chain stitches + 1 double crochet are worked in the 4 chain stitches which replaced the first treble crochet at the beginning of the previous round,, 4 chain stitches, skip over first chain space, 1 single crochet around next chain space) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, then work pattern as before until there are 2 chain stitches left before the next corner, work A.2a over the corner (i.e. 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet + 2 chain stitches + 1 double crochet are worked in the treble crochet in the corner).
Continue this pattern back and forth (i.e. repeat the last 2 rows in A.2). Work until the piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'' from the middle of the square; adjust so that you finish with 1 row of treble crochet groups. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as for right front piece.

SLEEVE:
Work 97-104-111-118-125-125 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and olive and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
Work 4 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 84-90-96-102-108-108 treble crochets.
Then work pattern in the round as follows: Work A.3 (= 6 stitches) and repeat A.4 over the remaining stitches (= 13-14-15-16-17-17 times in width).
Continue this pattern.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm / 1½'', adjust so that the next round is round 3 in A.3, decrease as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, skip the first 4 chain stitches (= replaced the first treble crochet on the previous round) and 2 treble crochets on the previous round, continue the pattern as before until there are 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch left, skip 3 treble crochets on the previous round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch (= 3 double crochets decreased in each side = a total of 6 double crochets decreased).
The next round is worked in the same way as round 2 (so that the chain-spaces continue and are displaced). Continue rounds 1 to 4 as before. Decrease like this every 10-8-8-7-7-7 cm / 3 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 ¾"-2 ¾"-2 ¾" a total of 5-6-6-7-7-7 times = 54-54-60-60-66-66 stitches (on 1 round of treble crochets). When the sleeve measures approx. 53 cm (adjust so that you finish with 1 round of chain stitches and single crochets) cut and fasten the strand.
Work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeves to the square with olive, in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = single crochet around chain-space
symbols = double crochet around chain-stitch ring
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = treble crochet group: (3 treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 3 treble crochets) around chain-space
symbols = (1 double crochet + 6 chain stitches + 1 double crochet) around chain-space/in treble crochet
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches, then work 6 chain stitches + 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch at beginning of previous round. Round finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = crochet direction
symbols = work 5 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle; round starts and ends here
symbols = round already worked; this shows how the next round is worked between the stitches - Start on next round!
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet between 2 treble crochets
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch (replaces first single crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Lisa wrote:

A.1 is wrong on how to start some of the rounds, noticed the problem on the 4th round(not counting the inner ring of chain stitches), according to your diagram I should start the round with the 13th symbol(in your symbols list) , however to make it look right you need to start the round with the first treble crochet group to go into the corner.

17.09.2023 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, on round 2, 4 and 6 in A.1 you will start the rounds as shown in diagram with the 13th symbol: work 4 chains (= 1st double treble crochet (UK-English)) , then continue working in the round (=2 chain stitches etc..) and end with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain from beginning of the round. Happy crocheting!

18.09.2023 - 15:57

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Re-bonjour, J'ai une autre question pour ce modèle. Lorsque je l'ai enregistré en favori, il me semble qu'il y avait un diagramme pour début de A1 (rond central sur lequel se raccrochait le 1er rang du grand carré). Ai-je rêvé ? Dois-je commencer directement par un rond de 5 mailles en l'air fermé par une maille coulée puis 3 mailles en l'air (=bride), 4 mailles en l'air, 1 bride... etc.Par ailleurs, n'y a-t-il pas un problème dans la fin de diagramme. Merci de vos réponses.

05.12.2022 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, quel problème avez-vous repéré dans la fin de diagramme? Je n'en vois à priori aucun, mais n'hésitez pas à nous dire ce à quoi vous pensez que nous puissions vérifier. Merci d'avance!

06.12.2022 - 10:40

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Re-bonjour, J'ai une autre question pour ce modèle. Lorsque je l'ai enregistré en favori, il me semble qu'il y avait un diagramme pour début de A1 (rond central sur lequel se raccrochait le 1er rang du grand carré). Ai-je rêvé ? Dois-je commencer directement par un rond de 5 mailles en l'air fermé par une maille coulée puis 3 mailles en l'air (=bride), 4 mailles en l'air, 1 bride... etc.Par ailleurs, n'y a-t-il pas un problème dans la fin de diagramme. Merci de vos réponses.

05.12.2022 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, A.1 commence par le milieu (rond de 5 ml), puis vous crochetez en commençant par la maille au-dessus du point noir sur le cercle = 12ème symbole = 3 mailles en l'air, et vous lisez ainsi tous les tours de droite à gauche en terminant avant la ligne noire par 1 maille coulée dans la 3ème de ces 3 ml du début du tour. Bon crochet!

06.12.2022 - 10:30

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le devant, il est mentionné : "continuer ainsi en allers et retours ( c'est-à-dire répéter les 4 rangs de A2 )". Mais je ne trouve pas le diagramme A2. Que dois-je faire ? Je suis débutante en crochet et il est possible que j'aie raté une explication. De même, toujours pour le devant, après A2b, la directive est : " continuer ensuite comme avant ". Pouvez-vous préciser ce que cela implique ?

04.12.2022 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, vous allez maintenant commencer les rangs par A.2a (pour que le côté soit droit) et les terminer par A.2b (pour que le 2ème côté soit également droit), et, en même temps, continuez le point fantaisie comme vous les faisiez dans A.1. Vous continuez comme avant entre les coins, mais avec les 2 diagrammes A.2a et A.2b de chaque côté, et alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. Bon crochet!

06.12.2022 - 09:55

country flag Kiss Györgyi wrote:

Az A.3-as minta 3. sorát (1rp,3lsz,1rp) nem látom a kész kardigán fényképén. Az ujj mintája nem 4, hanem csak 2 sorból áll a fénykép szerint. Így van? Szükséges a 3. sor?

31.01.2022 - 23:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kiss, if you could write your question in English, we will try to answer :)

22.04.2022 - 11:46

country flag Denise M Severson wrote:

What is the size range, in inches or cm? Please provide more definition than S-M-L... Thank you; the design is lovely!

28.10.2021 - 01:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Denise, you can find the measurements of the finished piece (in cm) on the shcematic drawing, just below the pattern. Happy Stitching!

28.10.2021 - 02:46

country flag Pia Andreassen wrote:

Hvad er bryst målet på denne cardigan i str. Xxxl?

16.08.2021 - 20:12

country flag Justine Wilkinson wrote:

When work the rows on a.2b and a.2a patterns on the corners, do you alternate between the to or put one pattern on one side and one on the other side? Thank you

21.07.2021 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wilkinson, on the front pieces, you start the rows from wrong side with A.2b and end them with A.2a and on the rows from right side, you start with A.2a and end with A.2b. Happy crocheting!

21.07.2021 - 16:44

country flag Alicja Zawistowska wrote:

Dzień dobry :) Czy wiadomo, ile włóczki potrzeba na kwadrat a ile na rękawy? W moim projekcie rękawy byłyby z innego koloru.

06.04.2021 - 09:09

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Alicjo, niestety nie wykonywałam tego wzoru i trudno mi powiedzieć.

06.04.2021 - 14:29

country flag Mona Larsen wrote:

Hvorfor i all verden bruker dere ikke de vanlige tegnene for maskene?

01.01.2021 - 11:22