DROPS / 192 / 46

Ice Skating Set by DROPS Design

Knitted neck warmer in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles. Knitted mittens in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles. Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.

  • Ice Skating Set / DROPS 192-46 - Knitted neck warmer in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
Knitted mittens in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
  • Ice Skating Set / DROPS 192-46 - Knitted neck warmer in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
Knitted mittens in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
  • Ice Skating Set / DROPS 192-46 - Knitted neck warmer in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
Knitted mittens in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and bobbles.
DROPS design: Pattern u-864
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400 g color 44, light gray

YARN FOR NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference at the bottom: approx. 95-109 cm / 37 3/8"-42 7/8" Circumference at the top: approx. 49-49 cm / 19 ¼"-19 ¼"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150 g color 44, light gray

YARN FOR MITTENS:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g color 44, light gray

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21''/22'' - 22½''/23½''
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150 g color 44, light gray

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

NECK WARMER:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 4 mm / US 6, length 40 cm/16" for neck warmer.
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, length 60 cm /24" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

MITTENS:

KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 for mittens.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 for rib
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

HAT:

KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, length 40 cm/16" for the hat.
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size.
Mittens: See diagrams A.5 to A.7.
Hat: See diagrams A.8 and A.9. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mittens):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mittens):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. 

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BEGIN PIECE HERE:

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, bottom up.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 210-240 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work rib (purl 4-5/knit 3) for 4 cm / 1½''.
Then work as follows: Work * A.1 (= 14-16 stitches), A.2 (= 21-24 stitches) *, work from *-* 6 times in total. When A.1/A.2 has been worked, there are 174-198 stitches on row. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Then work A.3 (= 12-14 stitches) over A.1 and A.4 (= 17-19 stitches) over A.2. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', decrease 1 stitch in left side of every purl section, decrease by purling 2 together (= 12 stitches decreased). Decrease like this alternately on right and left side of every purl section every 4-3 cm / 1 ½"-1 1/8" 5-7 times in total = 114-114 stitches. Continue pattern until piece measures approx. 25-28 cm / 9 ¾"-11" – adjust so that this is not a round with cable in A.4, i.e. not 3rd to 5th round. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 1 round with decrease as follows: * Purl 3, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 9 *, work from *-* 6 times in total = 108-108 stitches. Then work rib = purl 3/knit 3 until piece measures 30-34 cm / 11 ¾"-13 3/8". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

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MITTENS - SHORT SUMMARY OF GARMENT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on 48-48 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Karisma. Knit 1 round.
Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 5-6 cm / 2''-2 3/8''.
Then work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 24 stitches, knit 2, A.5 (= 18 stitches), knit 2, purl 2. When A.5 has been worked, there are 55-55 stitches on row.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work next round as follows: Knit 26 (= inside hand), A.6 (= 25 stitches) and knit 4. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 13-14 cm / 5 1/8"-5 ½", increase 1 stitch on each side of first stitch on round for thumb - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this on each side of the increased stitches every other round 5-6 times in total = 65-67 stitches. Now slip the 11-13 thumb stitches on 1 stitch holder. Continue in the round as before AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new stitch behind thumb on next round = 55-55 stitches. Continue until mitten measures 25-27 cm / 9 ¾"-10 5/8" – adjust so that this is not a round with cable in A.6, i.e. not 3rd to 5th round (try the mitten on, approx. 3 cm / 1'' remain until finished measurements). Now work A.7 over A.6, continue the remaining stitches as before. When A.7 has been worked, there are 47-47 stitches on row. Insert 1 marker thread after the first stitch on round and 1 marker thread after 24 stitches. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every other round 3 times in total and then on every round 3 times in total = 23-23 stitches. Knit 1, then knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 12 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the 11-13 thumb stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Pick in addition up 4-3 stitches behind thumb = 15-16 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch until the thumb itself measures approx. 4½-5 cm (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm remains until finished measurements). Knit 1-0, then knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 8 stitches. Then knit stitches together 2 by 2 = 4 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as right but increase for thumb on each side of the 22nd stitch on round.

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HAT - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, bottom up. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT:
Cast on 136-144 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Karisma. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: * A.8A (= 19 stitches), A.9A (= 15-17 stitches) *, work from *-* 4 times in total on round. Repeat A.8A and A.9A vertically until rib measures 3 cm / 1''.
Now increase in pattern by working next round as follows: Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work A.9B over A.9A, work the remaining stitches as before = 140-148 stitches.
Then work A.8B (= 19 stitches) over A.8A and A.9C (= 16-18 stitches) over A.9B. Then repeat A.8B and A.9C vertically. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! work until piece measures approx. 20-23 cm / 7 7/8"-9", adjust after one whole repetition vertically.
Now decrease for the top of hat in pattern by working as follows: A.8C (= 19 stitches) over A.8B and A.9D (= 16-18 stitches) over A.9C. Work until A.8C and A.9D are done vertically = 20-20 stitches. Knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 10-10 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Piece measures approx. 25-28 cm / 9 ¾"-11" from top and down.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = purl from right side
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = BOBBLE: Knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch until there are 5 stitches, turn and purl 1 row from wrong side over these 5 stitches, turn and knit 1 row from right side. Use left needle and pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off the needle, pass third stitch over first stitch, pass fourth stitch over first stitch and then fifth stitch over first stitch (= 1 stitch remains)
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 192-46) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Giovanna 17.12.2020 - 18:23:

Ho realizzato lo scaldacollo nella taglia L/XL ma le misure indicate sono un po’ piccole anche se ho usato lane Karisma e aghi indicati; comunque è venuto molto bene e comodo da usare

user icon DROPS Design 18.12.2020 kl. 09:03:

Buongiorno Giovanna, aveva lavorato il campione prima di cominciare? Corrispondeva a quello indicato? Buon lavoro!

country flag Gianna 22.11.2020 - 14:52:

Ho realizzato lo scaldacollo con la lana Karisma nuova nella taglia L/ XL ma è ancora un po’ stretto di spalle,forse perché quando lavoro ho il punto un po’ stretto Vorrei rifarlo più grande di quante maglie devo ingrandirlo per mantenere lo schema.?di trenta? Per fortuna ho comprato un gomitolo in più Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 22.11.2020 kl. 17:41:

Buonasera Gianna, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Ilona 12.09.2020 - 18:30:

Moi! Aloitin tekemään lapasta tällä ohjeella. En ole ennen neulonut neulepiirroksesta mitään. Miten A.5 piirros tehdään?

user icon DROPS Design 22.09.2020 kl. 17:25:

Hei, piirrosten yläpuolelta löydät merkkien selitykset. Esim. tyhjä ruutu on oikea silmukka oikealta puolelta ja ruutu, jossa on musta ympyrä neulotaan nurin oikealta puolelta. Suljettua neuletta neulottaessa kaikki piirroksen kerrokset luetaan oikealta vasemmalle. Piirros luetaan alhaalta ylös.

country flag Danielle 21.11.2019 - 17:44:

Thank-you for the response, I basically wanted to know if it would be possible to make this with the 3 repeats instead of 4 and if I would be ok for the rest of the pattern keeping with the 3 only. I Have made several Drops patterns and I love them. Also you are the best in answering questions and for help so thank-you.

country flag Danielle 21.11.2019 - 05:05:

Hello the # of sts to cast on for the hat 136 = 24.5 “ I need a true small 18-19” hat I calculated 102 sts for a 3 repeat ** of the pattern however I need help with the rest of the pattern. Can you help with what to do next? My daughter fell in love with this hat I’d hoped to make it for Christmas. Thanks so much for your help.

user icon DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 09:28:

Dear Danielle, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every request, but if working over 3 repeats might fit, then you can just continue working the pattern as explained, you will simply work over less stitches/repeats in width. Do not hesitate to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any further individual assistance (even per mail). Happy knitting!

country flag Jolyane 24.11.2018 - 02:06:

Je veux savoir si dans le diagramme A3 il faut faire les torsade avec 2 mailles sur l\'aiguille auxiliaire et on tricote deux mailles ou juste une maille sur l\'aiguille auxiliaire et on tricote une maille ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.11.2018 kl. 11:10:

Bonjour Jolyane, les torsades de A.3 se font chacune sur 2 mailles - cf 3ème et 4ème symbole de la légende. Bon tricot!

country flag Monique 13.07.2018 - 15:05:

Sehr schöne Kombination. Hätte ich gerne.

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