DROPS / 194 / 8

Malmö by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with cable, high neck and rolled edge. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-004
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g color 08, lavender

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM / US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM / US 8: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM / US 6: for sleeve edges.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM / US 6: length 80 cm/32" for garter stitch edge.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cable.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.90 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 5.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 5.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

CABLE:
The next time you work the cable (i.e. on round 5 in A.2), it is displaced by 1 stitch to the left as follows: Work as before as far as A.2, knit 1, place the next 6 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 6, knit 6 from the cable needle. Displace the cable like this (i.e. 1 stitch to the left) each time you work it until the piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-9 ¾"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8" from the marker thread (i.e. to end of yoke).

INCREASE TIP-1 (for raglan):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase like this by each of the 4 marker threads (= a total of 8 stitches increased). The yarn overs are not worked twisted on the next round so you will have holes!

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches) 1 yarn over (= a total of 4 stitches increased on the round as there are 2 marker threads). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then knit the new stitches. 

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. First you work a high neck, then the yoke. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is worked in the round with circular needle and the sleeves in the round with double pointed needles

HIGH NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-104-112 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and Sky. Work stockinette stitch for 3 cm / 1'' (= rolled edge). Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) over all stitches. Work a total of 3 rounds of rib. Then continue as follows (the round starts mid back):
Knit 44-47-50-53-59-65 stitches, A.1 (= 8 stitches) and finish with knit 32-33-34-35-37-39 stitches.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height there are 88-92-96-100-108-116 stitches on the needle. Work A.2 (= 12 stitches) over A.1. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', insert 1 marker thread in the piece; THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! 

YOKE:
On the next round insert 4 markers for raglan as follows:
Knit 15-16-17-18-20-22 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker, knit 12 stitches (= right sleeve), insert 1 marker, knit 17-19-21-23-27-31 stitches, A.2 as before (= 12 stitches), knit 5 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker, knit 12 stitches (= left sleeve), insert 1 marker and finish with knit 15-16-17-18-20-22 stitches (= half back piece).
Now increase to raglan and displace the cable in A.2 by 1 stitch to the left each time it is worked – read CABLE.
On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read INCREASE TIP-1! Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 23-26-28-31-33-36 times = 272-300-320-348-372-404 stitches. Continue working knit and A.2 as before until the piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-9 ¾"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8" from the marker thread. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 38-42-44-49-54-60 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 58-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, knit and work A.2 over the next 80-88-92-102-112-124 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 58-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve and finish with knit 38-42-44-49-54-60 stitches (= half back piece) = 172-188-200-220-244-268 stitches.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under each sleeve.
Continue in the round with knit and A.2 (A.2 is now worked over the same stitches to finished length, i.e. displacing is now finished). When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from where the body was divided from the sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th row a total of 7-7-8-8-7-7 times = 200-216-232-252-272-296 stitches. Continue with knit until the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm / 13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 ¾"-13 ¾"-13 ¾"-13 ¾" from where the body was divided from the sleeves. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Bind off with knit. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 58-64-70-74-76-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 66-72-80-84-88-92 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve. Knit. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from where the sleeve was divided from the body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 6-3½-2½-2-2-1½ cm/2½"-1 1/4"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 6-9-12-13-14-16 times = 54-54-56-58-60-60 stitches. When the piece measures 41-40-39-37-36-34 cm / 16 1/8"-15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14 ½"-14 1/8"-13 3/8" from where the sleeve was divided from the body, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work 2 ridges. Bind off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 64-65-65-65-66-67 cm / 25 1/8"-25 ½"-25 ½"-25 ½"-26"-26 3/8" from the cast-on edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; knit the yarn over twisted on the next round to avoid a hole
= place 6 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 6, knit 6 from the cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Mathilda K 17.08.2019 - 10:11:

Wat ik jammer vind is, dat ook deze trui weer rondgebreid wordt en met name de mouwen en raglan vind ik er niet mooi uitzien en sluiten ook niet erg fijn aan. Zoals ook op de foto, zie je dat het trekt en dat de okselpartij wat zakkerig eruit ziet. Dit heb ik met meerdere truien/vesten...........Zijn er geen patronen met twee pennen?

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 18:01:

Dag Mathilda,

De patronen worden in Noorwegen ontworpen en daar is het van oudsher gebruikelijk om met rondbreinaalden te breien. Op de site staan ook patronen die je met rechte naalden kan breien, maar we hebben ook een instructie gemaakt hoe je patronen aan kunt passen om met rechte naalden te breien. Deze vindt je hier

Ann Miller 27.04.2019 - 18:40:

Très beau pull ! J'ai juste commencé le col, je le fais en gris beige avec le col, l'empiècement et la torsade bleu roi, avec de la laine chinée. Par contre, les mesures de mon pull correspondent bien au modèle, mais j'ai l'impression que le col est quand même très large. Est-ce normal ?

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 11:36:

Bonjour Mme Miller, avez-vous bien le bon échantillon de 19 m x 25 rangs en jersey = 10 x 10 cm? Il est indispensable d'avoir le bon échantillon pour obtenir les mêmes mesures que le modèle. Bon tricot!

Monique 18.02.2019 - 16:35:

Is er een video van het stukje; plaats 70 steken op een hulpdraad voor de mouw, zet 10 steken op onder de mouw....ik kom er niet uir hoe dit moet. Dank alvast.

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 14:36:

Dag Monique,

Deze video laat zien hoe je dat kunt doen. (Zelf vind ik het handig om een ongebruikte korte rondbreinaald, in plaats van een draad, te gebruiken om de steken op te parkeren.)

Juliette 09.02.2019 - 15:42:

Et quand il s'agit d'un fil Drops que l'on veut tricoter en double voire en triple ? Comment convertir ?

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 12:24:

Bonjour Juliette, vous trouverez ici les alternatives possibles entre les différentes groupes ainsi que le mode de calcul des nouvelles quantités. Bon tricot!

Juliette 07.02.2019 - 21:33:

Bonjour. J'aimerais savoir le métrage nécessaire pour les différentes tailles. J'en ai besoin pour convertir le tricot dans une autre laine. Merci beaucoup :-)

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 09:03:

Bonjour Juliette, Nous sommes en mesure de pouvoir proposer des modèles gratuits grâce à nos fils à tricoter et à crocheter vendus dans le monde entier. Vous comprendrez ainsi que nous ne pouvons que vous recommander d’utiliser l’une de nos qualités, à cet effet, vous pouvez utiliser notre convertisseur. N’hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS en France pour toute assistance. Merci pour votre compréhension.

Sonja 10.01.2019 - 11:19:

Eine Frage wird der Zopf bereits ab unten jeweils um die eine Masche versetzt oder nur im letzten oberen Bereich ?

DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 13:05:

Liebe Sonja, der Pullover wird oben nach unten gestrickt, der Zopf wird in der 5. Runde von A.2 um eine Masche um links verschoben, bis die Arbeit 22-29 cm ab der Markierung misst. Dann A.2 "normal" stricken (die Zöpfen werden dann immer übereinander über die selben 12 Maschen gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Michelle Bertrand 15.12.2018 - 18:23:

Bonjour,Ou commence t\'on la torsade dans le col montant. Merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 15.12.2018 kl. 20:00:

Bonjour Michelle! Oui, le diagramme A.2 (torsade) est fait sur le col montant. Bon tricot!

Hilde Balliere 01.12.2018 - 16:54:

Artig genser! Jeg tror at jeg skjønner av en spørsmål/svar-runde på nederlandsk at man strikker A1 kun en gang. Det er A2 som utgjør fletten, og det er den som gjentas. Men gjentar man A2 på hver runde? Blir kke det enormt tett? Takk for svar!

DROPS Design 05.12.2018 kl. 09:28:

Hei Hilde. Det stemmer: du strikker A.1 kun 1 gang, også strikker du A.2 over A.1 og gjentar A.2 oppover til ferdige mål. A.2 går over 10 omganger/runder og selve flettingen skjer på omgang 5. Du strikker altså 4 omganger rett, 1 omgang med fletting, 5 omganger rett = 1 rapport av A.2 i høyden. Så begynner du på nytt med 4 omganger rett osv. Det vil si at det er totalt 9 omganger glattstrikk mellom hver omgang med fletting. God fornøyelse.

Lisa 11.11.2018 - 15:01:

The cable is both diagrams A1 and A2 everytime we make it? Or we make A1 only once and then we make only A2? Thank u !

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 08:02:

Hi Lisa, You work A.1 once and then continue with A.2 repeated in height over A.1. Happy knitting!

Deborah 30.10.2018 - 06:00:

I understand the measurements in the pictures are in cm. Are they for the front only, or all the way around. For example, the smallest measurement on the front bottom edge is 52cm. Is that 52cm across the FRONT bottom edge, or both the front AND back together?\r\nThank you in advance for your response. Love your patterns!!

DROPS Design 30.10.2018 kl. 08:50:

Dear Deborah, measurements are taken flat from side to side, ie the bottom edge measures 52 cm = 104 cm circumference. Read more about sizing and measurements here. Happy knitting!

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