DROPS / 190 / 21

California Dream by DROPS Design

Crocheted top with lace pattern and flounce. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

Tags: flounce, lace, tops,
DROPS design: Pattern cm-091
Yarn group B
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TOP:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 01, off white

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 - for cast-on stitches.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.

CROCHET TIP-1 (applies to body but not diagram):
Replace first double crochet at beginning of every row with 3 chain stitches.

CROCHET TIP-2 (applies to body but not diagram):
When working in the round, replace first treble with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease by working 2 double crochets together.


INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of double crochets on row (e.g. 146 double crochets) and divide double crochets by number of increases to be done (e.g. 22) = 6.6. In this example increase by working 2 double crochets in same double crochet alternately approx. every 6th and 7th double crochet.
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TOP:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down, work front and back piece separately down to armhole, then work in the round over both parts. Then work straps from bottom up and then work flounces back and forth on straps, fasten flounce to front/back piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 51-53-53-55-57-59 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Cotton Merino. Switch to hook size 4 mm / G/6, turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 47-49-49-51-53-55 chain stitches = 49-51-51-53-55-57 double crochets.
On next row begin increase in each side of piece AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as follows:
Increase 1 double crochet in each side of piece (= 2 double crochets increased) - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every row 3-5-8-13-14-15 times in total, and then every other row 5-5-3-0-0-0 times in total = 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets on last row.
Work next row as follows, begin from right side: Read CROCHET TIP-1 – work 1 double crochet in each of the first 0-1-1-2-3-4 double crochets, A.1a over the next 10 double crochets, repeat A.1b over the next 30 double crochets (= 5 times in total in width), A.1c over the next 9 double crochets and 1 double crochet in each of the last 0-1-1-2-3-4 double crochets. Continue until A.1 has been work 1 time vertically. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Then work as follows, begin from wrong side: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until 1 double crochet remains before first chain space, work A.2c, repeat A.2b 3 times in total in width, A.2a and 1 double crochet in every double crochet the entire row. Continue until A.2 has been worked vertically.
Then work as follows, begin from wrong side: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until first chain space, work A.3 and 1 double crochet in every double crochet the rest of row. Continue until A.3 has been worked vertically. Now work 1 double crochet in every stitch until piece measures 14-15-15-16-16-17 cm / 5 ½"-5 7/8"-5 7/8"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 5/8". Fasten off, turn. Put piece aside.

BACK PIECE:
Work 51-53-53-55-57-59 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Cotton Merino. Switch to hook size 4 mm / G/6, turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 47-49-49-51-53-55 chain stitches = 49-51-51-53-55-57 double crochets.
Then work 1 double crochet in every double crochet - AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 double crochet in each side of piece - remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every row 8-10-11-13-14-15 times in total = 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets on last row. When piece measures 14-15-15-16-16-17 cm / 5 ½"-5 7/8"-5 7/8"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 5/8" (adjust according to front piece), fasten off, turn.

BODY:
Now work the two parts together as follows:
Work 4-4-7-8-12-15 chain stitches for armhole, 1 double crochet in each of the 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets from back piece, work 8-8-14-16-24-30 chain stitches for armhole, 1 double crochet in each of the 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets from front piece, work 4-4-7-8-12-15 chain stitches for armhole and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round. Then work piece in the round, continue with 1 double in every double/chain stitch = 146-158-174-190-214-234 double crochets. When working in the round, turn after every round to work alternately from right side and wrong side. This is so that the texture is the same on the entire top - read CROCHET TIP-2. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-14-16-24-30 chain stitches. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue like this until piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm / 3 1/8''-3½''-4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.4 while at the same time increasing on first round (round marked with arrow in diagram) as follows: Work A.4b 28-30-33-36-39-43 times in total on round – A.4a shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.4b – AT THE SAME TIME increase 11-11-12-13-10-12 chain spaces (= 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch) evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 84-90-99-108-117-129 chain spaces (= 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch). Continue in the round, i.e. always work pattern from right side. When A.4 is done vertically, fasten off.

STRAPS:
Now work a strap back and forth in cast-on edge on front piece over the first 8-9-9-9-10-10 double crochets. Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until strap measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾''. Fasten off. Work 1 strap over the first 8-9-9-9-10-10 double crochets in the other side the same way. Work straps the same way on back piece. Sew tog straps on shoulder.

FLOUNCE:
Work back and forth over every row on strap (= 20-20-22-22-24-24 cm / 7 7/8"-7 7/8"-8 5/8"-8 5/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"). Begin from wrong side and work 1 double crochet in first row, * 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around row *, work from *-* along the entire strap – adjust so that there are 26-26-28-28-30-30 chain spaces (= 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet) on this row, finish with 1 double crochet in last row = 1 double crochet in each side and 26-26-28-28-30-30 chain spaces (= 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet). Turn and work as follows from right side: A.5a, A.5b 13-13-14-14-15-15 times in total in width, finish with A.5c. Continue this pattern until A.5 is done vertically, fasten off. Work flounce on the other strap the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet/2 single crochets along every double crochet row along the entire neck.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet/2 single crochets along every double crochet row along armhole – start right after flounce, work along armhole and to the flounce. Place flounce edge to edge to this sleeve edge (on both front and back piece) and fasten with small, neat stitches. Work the other sleeve edge the same way and fasten flounce.

TIE:
Cut 3 lengths of 3 metres each with Cotton Merino. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold them double so that they twine again. Make a knot at each end. Baste the yarn up and down through first row with eyelet holes - start mid front. Tie a bow at the front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 chain stitch
= 2 chain stitches
= 3 chain stitches
= single crochet in stitch
= single crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= half double crochet around chain space
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain space
= double treble crochet around chain stitch
= round/row begins with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round
= round/row begins with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= round/row begins with 5 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 5th chain stitch at beginning of round
= this round has already been worked, begin on next round!
= increase round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (64)

Varity 22.09.2019 - 06:19:

Hello! I've never used a chart before and I have worked to the 65 DC before the A.1a, but I'm not sure how to continue using the chart, could you please explain?

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 09:19:

Dear Varity, you have to work in pattern and increase at the same time, ie the increases start with the first row in A.1 and when A.1 has been worked, continue working A.2 as explained. Read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Nadia 22.08.2019 - 15:11:

Hello, I have trouble understanding the diagram to this pattern. I am crocheting a size S and I'm currently at 65 DC, just before beginning the A.1a pattern. From which part of the diagram do I start crocheting? And what does the 'work 1 double crochet in each of the first 0-1-1-2-3-4 double crochets' mean? Thank you for your response!

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 08:20:

Dear Nadia, you should start working pattern over the 47 sts, ie at the same time as the first increase row and work the first row of A.1 as described (increasing at the same time). Happy crocheting!

Paula 17.08.2019 - 02:24:

Me podrías explicar desde donde hay que hacer las 4 cadenetas para la sisa?

Kea 15.08.2019 - 08:40:

Hallo ik ben met de rug bezig in smalle ik begrijp dat ik 14cm moet haken.of moet ik net zoveel haken als de voorkant totaal30?

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 14:27:

Dag Kea,

Klopt het achterpand haak je net als de voorkant, wat neerkomt op ongeveer 14 cm. (Staat er ook bij: 'pas aan volgens het voorpand' :)

Paula 11.08.2019 - 01:07:

Alguien que haya logrado hacerlo? No entiendo las instrucciones.

Carmela Rodríguez 24.07.2019 - 17:14:

Muy bien explicado , pero me gustaría que en este mismo esquema también esté el video del paso a paso hubiera sido excelente y completo, pero gracias por sus detalles.Mil bendiciones

Janick 17.07.2019 - 15:30:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide

Janick DORWLING CARTER 17.07.2019 - 11:51:

Bonjour à vous, je suis rendue au motif A4,est ce que les 11 arceaux supplémentaires ce font au 1° rang je vous remercie

DROPS Design 17.07.2019 kl. 15:19:

Bonjour Mme Dorwling Carter, tout à fait, on augmente 11 arceaux au 1er tour de A.4 = on doit avoir 84 arceaux en taille S et 90 arceaux en taille M à la fin du 1er tour. Bon crochet!

Janick DORWLING CARTER 28.06.2019 - 15:29:

Bonjour, je viens d'arriver aux 71 mailles avant de commencer les diagrammes Si, je suis les explications, il me reste 3 mailles en fin de rangs pouvez vous m'aider je vous remercie sincèrement

DROPS Design 28.06.2019 kl. 15:42:

Bonjour Mme Dorwling Carter, vous devez augmenter en même temps que vous crochetez en point fantaisie, vous allez donc, dès le 1er rang crocheter ainsi en taille M: 1 augm, A.1a (= 10 brides), A.1b (= 3 0 brides), A.1c (= 9brides), 1 augm = 51 brides + 2 augmentations = 53 brides. Continuez A.1 en augmentant encore 4 fois tous les rangs et 5 fois tous les 2 rangs = 71 brides quand toutes les augmentations sont faites, continuez A.1 s'il n'est pas fini. Bon crochet!

Nicole Vena 02.06.2019 - 18:40:

I just worked the straps and you say to work them until they measure 10 cm. Then to start the flounce it says to start working on the side of the strap and it should be 20 cm. I don't understand how it should measure 20 cm to start crocheting into the side to start the flounce.

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:23:

Dear Mrs Vena, you work the straps in 4 parts (1 on each side of the front piece + 1 on each side of the back piece), so that you will have for each strap: 10 cm from front/back piece + 10 cm from back/front piece = 20 cm for the total length of each strap. Happy crocheting!

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