DROPS / 190 / 21

California Dream by DROPS Design

Crocheted top with lace pattern and flounce. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

  • California Dream / DROPS 190-21 - Crocheted top with lace pattern and flounce. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.
  • California Dream / DROPS 190-21 - Crocheted top with lace pattern and flounce. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.
DROPS design: Pattern cm-091
Yarn group B
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TOP:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 01, off white

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 - for cast-on stitches.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.

CROCHET TIP-1 (applies to body but not diagram):
Replace first double crochet at beginning of every row with 3 chain stitches.

CROCHET TIP-2 (applies to body but not diagram):
When working in the round, replace first treble with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease by working 2 double crochets together.


INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of double crochets on row (e.g. 146 double crochets) and divide double crochets by number of increases to be done (e.g. 22) = 6.6. In this example increase by working 2 double crochets in same double crochet alternately approx. every 6th and 7th double crochet.
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TOP:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down, work front and back piece separately down to armhole, then work in the round over both parts. Then work straps from bottom up and then work flounces back and forth on straps, fasten flounce to front/back piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 51-53-53-55-57-59 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Cotton Merino. Switch to hook size 4 mm / G/6, turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 47-49-49-51-53-55 chain stitches = 49-51-51-53-55-57 double crochets.
On next row begin increase in each side of piece AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as follows:
Increase 1 double crochet in each side of piece (= 2 double crochets increased) - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every row 3-5-8-13-14-15 times in total, and then every other row 5-5-3-0-0-0 times in total = 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets on last row.
Work next row as follows, begin from right side: Read CROCHET TIP-1 – work 1 double crochet in each of the first 0-1-1-2-3-4 double crochets, A.1a over the next 10 double crochets, repeat A.1b over the next 30 double crochets (= 5 times in total in width), A.1c over the next 9 double crochets and 1 double crochet in each of the last 0-1-1-2-3-4 double crochets. Continue until A.1 has been work 1 time vertically. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Then work as follows, begin from wrong side: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until 1 double crochet remains before first chain space, work A.2c, repeat A.2b 3 times in total in width, A.2a and 1 double crochet in every double crochet the entire row. Continue until A.2 has been worked vertically.
Then work as follows, begin from wrong side: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until first chain space, work A.3 and 1 double crochet in every double crochet the rest of row. Continue until A.3 has been worked vertically. Now work 1 double crochet in every stitch until piece measures 14-15-15-16-16-17 cm / 5 ½"-5 7/8"-5 7/8"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 5/8". Fasten off, turn. Put piece aside.

BACK PIECE:
Work 51-53-53-55-57-59 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Cotton Merino. Switch to hook size 4 mm / G/6, turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 47-49-49-51-53-55 chain stitches = 49-51-51-53-55-57 double crochets.
Then work 1 double crochet in every double crochet - AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 double crochet in each side of piece - remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every row 8-10-11-13-14-15 times in total = 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets on last row. When piece measures 14-15-15-16-16-17 cm / 5 ½"-5 7/8"-5 7/8"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 5/8" (adjust according to front piece), fasten off, turn.

BODY:
Now work the two parts together as follows:
Work 4-4-7-8-12-15 chain stitches for armhole, 1 double crochet in each of the 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets from back piece, work 8-8-14-16-24-30 chain stitches for armhole, 1 double crochet in each of the 65-71-73-79-83-87 double crochets from front piece, work 4-4-7-8-12-15 chain stitches for armhole and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round. Then work piece in the round, continue with 1 double in every double/chain stitch = 146-158-174-190-214-234 double crochets. When working in the round, turn after every round to work alternately from right side and wrong side. This is so that the texture is the same on the entire top - read CROCHET TIP-2. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-14-16-24-30 chain stitches. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue like this until piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm / 3 1/8''-3½''-4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.4 while at the same time increasing on first round (round marked with arrow in diagram) as follows: Work A.4b 28-30-33-36-39-43 times in total on round – A.4a shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.4b – AT THE SAME TIME increase 11-11-12-13-10-12 chain spaces (= 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch) evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 84-90-99-108-117-129 chain spaces (= 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch). Continue in the round, i.e. always work pattern from right side. When A.4 is done vertically, fasten off.

STRAPS:
Now work a strap back and forth in cast-on edge on front piece over the first 8-9-9-9-10-10 double crochets. Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until strap measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾''. Fasten off. Work 1 strap over the first 8-9-9-9-10-10 double crochets in the other side the same way. Work straps the same way on back piece. Sew tog straps on shoulder.

FLOUNCE:
Work back and forth over every row on strap (= 20-20-22-22-24-24 cm / 7 7/8"-7 7/8"-8 5/8"-8 5/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"). Begin from wrong side and work 1 double crochet in first row, * 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around row *, work from *-* along the entire strap – adjust so that there are 26-26-28-28-30-30 chain spaces (= 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet) on this row, finish with 1 double crochet in last row = 1 double crochet in each side and 26-26-28-28-30-30 chain spaces (= 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet). Turn and work as follows from right side: A.5a, A.5b 13-13-14-14-15-15 times in total in width, finish with A.5c. Continue this pattern until A.5 is done vertically, fasten off. Work flounce on the other strap the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet/2 single crochets along every double crochet row along the entire neck.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet/2 single crochets along every double crochet row along armhole – start right after flounce, work along armhole and to the flounce. Place flounce edge to edge to this sleeve edge (on both front and back piece) and fasten with small, neat stitches. Work the other sleeve edge the same way and fasten flounce.

TIE:
Cut 3 lengths of 3 metres each with Cotton Merino. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold them double so that they twine again. Make a knot at each end. Baste the yarn up and down through first row with eyelet holes - start mid front. Tie a bow at the front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = half double crochet around chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = double treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = round/row begins with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round/row begins with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round/row begins with 5 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 5th chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = this round has already been worked, begin on next round!
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (116)

country flag Pilar 27.07.2021 - 11:55:

Dónde puedo encontrar esta marca de lanas y revistas

user icon DROPS Design 27.07.2021 kl. 14:54:

Hola Pilar, AQUI encontrarás una lista de los minoristas DROPS activos en Espana. Todos los patrones son dados a los clientes gratuitamente en la pagina garnstudio.com. Buen trabajo!

country flag Christine 15.07.2021 - 16:14:

Bonjour, Je crochète ce modèle en S. Je bloque au niveau du diagramme A4: je ne comprends pas comment réaliser les augmentations en faisant des arceaux supplémentaires. Sachant que j'ai 146 brides à partir desquelles je ne pourrai réaliser que 24 fois A4? ( et non 28 comme demandé?) Cordialement.

user icon DROPS Design 16.07.2021 kl. 08:20:

Bonjour Christine, vous devez augmenter au 1er rang de A.4, autrement dit, au lieu de crocheter (1 bride, 1 ml, on saute 1 bride) tout le tour, vous allez crocheter à 11 reprises différentes (cf cette leçon par ex. (1 bride, 1 ml, 1 br dans la m suivante, 1 ml) autrement dit, vous allez ainsi augmenter 11 brides = arceaux. lorsque vous aurez augmenté 11 brides vous aurez 84 fois (1 b, 1 ml) et pourrez ainsi répéter 14 fois A.4 tout le tour (14 x 6 brides par A.4= 84) + A.4a. Bon crochet!

country flag Cornelia Jernej 14.07.2021 - 16:14:

Hallo, beim Rückenteil wird ab der ersten Runde 8x beidseitig zugenommen. Das sind noch keine 14 cm Soll ich die restlichen Reihen bis 14 cm ohne Zunahme stricken, oder soll ich die Zunahme auf 14cm verteilen? Grüße Conny

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2021 kl. 09:26:

Liebe Frau Jernej, die Zunahmen werden in jeder Reihe gearbeitet, wenn sie alle fertig sind, dann häkeln Sie ohne Zunahmen bis die Arbeit 14 cm misst. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Jeannine Fournier 20.06.2021 - 18:37:

Bonjour, j'ai du mal à comprendre vos diagrammes. Je veux faire la taille S. J'aimerais savoir si : En 1a les 5 lignes ne représentent que l'endroit ? Donc quels points pour les rgs de retour ? A moins qu'il n'y ait que 5 lignes au total ? Le triangle qui sépare les 2 Brides ds la même Bride est ce 3ml ? Et le "petit pont" qui suit est ce 2ml ? Merci pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 21.06.2021 kl. 08:01:

Bonjour Mme Fournier, tous les rangs figurent dans les diagrammes, sur l'endroit lisez de droite à gauche (= A.1a, A.1b, A.1c) et sur l'envers de gauche à droite (A.1c, A.1b, A.1a). Quand ces 5 rangs sont faits, crochetez A.2 de la même façon puis A.3 au-dessus des mailles centrales (pour terminer la pointe ajourée). 1 triangle = 3 ml et le "petit pont" = 2 ml - cf légende. Bon crochet!

country flag Ladyyauraa 18.06.2021 - 01:31:

Me encuentro que cuando tengo k unir espalda i delantero se hace en redondo los volantes de abajo!!, pero el grafico para hacer el escote con el dibujo es como si estuviera erroneo

country flag Ursula CHEVALLIER 01.06.2021 - 17:16:

Merci de votre indication pour la taille 'M' . Pouvez-vous juste confirmer la fin de mon 1ier rg d'augmentation avec le diagr. : l'avant dernière maille de 1c : 1 bride, 3 m en l'air, 2 brides dans la dernière maille , donc la 2ième bride = l'augmentation. Je veux juste être sûr d'avoir bien compris. Merci encore de votre explication.

user icon DROPS Design 02.06.2021 kl. 07:25:

Bonjour Mme Chevalier, je vois que j'ai oublié A.1c hier, désolée, voici le détail correct: 1 bride dans la 1ère m + 1 augm, A.1a = 10 brides, A.1b = 5x 6 brides = 30 brides, A.1c = 9 brides, 1 bride dans la dernière m + 1 augm = 1(+1) + 10+30+9 + 1(+1)=51(+2)=53 brides. En M, vous augmentez au 1er rang dans la 1ère m avant A.1a et dans la dernière m après A.1c . Bon crochet!

country flag Ursula CHEVALLIER 01.06.2021 - 09:47:

Je rép.ma quest.: en ' M' je démarre sur 51 b. le diagr. 1 a, b, c comme suit: 3m en l'air pour tourner, 1 bride (=augm.)3m en l'air+1b dans la même m et je suis le diagr...j'arrive à la fin de 1c avec 1b+3m en l'air+ 2b (la 2ième = augm.) dans la même B du rg préc. Et que faire avec les 2 B du rg préc. pour finir le rg ??? Après la fin de 1c il me reste 2 B non crochetées, que faire..???

user icon DROPS Design 01.06.2021 kl. 16:13:

Bonjour Mme Chevalier, vous avez 51 brides et crochetez: 1 bride dans la première bride (= en augmentant au 1er rang = 2 brides ici), puis A.1a = 10 brides, A.1b = 5 x 6 brides = 30 brides, 1 bride dans la dernière bride (= en augmentant au 1er rang = 2 brides ici), vous avez ainsi bien 51 brides + 2 augmentations: 1(+1) + 10+30+1 (+1)= 51(53) brides, comme au 1er rang (et vous avez augmenté 1 bride de chaque côté = + 2 m par rapport au 1er rang). Est-ce que ceci- peut vous aider?

country flag Ursula CHEVALLIER 31.05.2021 - 23:05:

Bonjour, je fait ce modèle en M , donc 53 m en l'air et crocheté 1 rg de brides dessus. J'arrive en 2 ième rg donc avec 51 brides et j'ai crocheté le diagr.A1a ,b , c et j'ai finis avec 1 bride , 3 mailles en air , 1 bride dans la même maille. Après il me reste encore 2 mailles et je dois augmenter 1 maille , comment faire pour cette augmentation à la fin de ce rg...???? Vu qu'il y a 2 mailles qui restent...Merci de v/réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 01.06.2021 kl. 08:26:

Bonjour Mme Chevalier, en taille M, vous commencez par une chaînette de 53 mailles en l'air, mais au 1er rang, vous ne devez avoir que 51 brides, c'est probablement l'origine des 2 mailles en l'air en trop que vous avez à la fin du 1er rang. Bon crochet!

country flag Steffi 30.04.2021 - 21:12:

Hallo, nach dem ersten Teil habe ich 73 Maschen in der Reihe. Warum habe ich ab dem Diagrammen dann nur 1+10+30+10 also nur 51 in der nächsten Reihe?? Liebe Grüße an alle Handarbeiter

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2021 kl. 07:27:

Liebe Steffi, Sie müssen gleichzeitig zunehmen und im Muster häkeln, dh, die 1. Reihe wird mit der 1. Muster + mit Zunahmen gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Eleonora 11.04.2021 - 15:56:

Excluding the lateral increases (since I am doing an M size, there are two double crochets from which I start the increases on the sides, for a total of 51 stitches in the first row), I start the diagram with 49 stitches. At the end of A3, I have 51 stitches corresponding to the diagram. The reason is that in the central chain space of the last row I worked three stitches instead of one: 2 hd crochets and 1 single crochet. Where should I have to skip two stitches to compensate this increase?

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 10:09:

Dear Eleonora, maybe you could get helped with markers to check your number of sts ? Try to thread markers at the end of A.1a and before A.1c; this can help you to check where you might have increased these 2 stitches. Hope it will help!

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