DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Vintage Summer

Crocheted sweater with vent and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS 190-3
DROPS design: Pattern cm-089
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 05, powder pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically. Pattern A.1 and A.4. 20 stitches = width 10 cm / 4''. Pattern A.2: 18 stitches = width 10 cm / 4''. Pattern A.3b measures approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' in width.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO (applies to everything except A.3):
At beginning of every row with double crochet begin with 3 chain stitch, these do not replace first double crochet. Finish row with 1 double crochet in 1st/3rd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.
At beginning of every row with single crochet begin with 1 chain stitch, this does not replace first single crochet. Finish row with 1 single crochet in 1st/3rd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.

DECREASE TIP:
* Insert hook in next stitch, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook = 1 single crochet decreased.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides on front and back piece):
Work A.2 2 times in total around first chain space on row and work A.2 2 times in total around last chain space on row (= 2 repetitions increased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to A.2):
Increase by working 2 single crochets in same stitch.
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SWEATER:
Work sweater back and forth, top down. Work front and back piece separately. First work each shoulder separately, then work parts together at the neck and continue downwards. Work sleeves back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
Work each shoulder separately, cast on chain stitches for neck and put piece together.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 32-36-40-47-54-62 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-1-3-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 5-6-7-8-9-11 times in total = 24-27-30-36-42-48 double crochets.
Work next row as follows (= 1st row in A.1d from wrong side): Work 3 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFO, work A.1d 8-9-10-12-14-16 times in total in width = 8-9-10-12-14-16 chain spaces. Put piece aside and work the other shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work the same way as left shoulder, then work 36-39-39-39-39-39 chain stitches for neck and fasten with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of last row on left shoulder. Fasten off.

BACK PIECE:
Continue on 2nd row in A.1d (= from right side) as follows: Read CROCHET INFO! Work A.1d over the first 8-9-10-12-14-16 chain spaces, work A.1d 12-13-13-13-13-13 times in total over chain stitches for neck (work double crochets in stitches), work A.1d over the next 8-9-10-12-14-16 chain spaces. Continue like this, i.e. work A.1d 28-31-33-37-41-45 times in total in width. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows until piece measures approx. 16-16-18-18-20-20 cm / 6 ¼"-6 ¼"-7"-7"-7 7/8"-7 7/8" - adjust according to last row (i.e. row worked from wrong side).
WORK A.2 AS FOLLOWS:
Work 1st row in A.2 as follows: Work A.2 (= 28-31-33-37-41-45 repetitions) while at the same time decreasing 9-9-9-12-12-15 single crochets evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 75-84-90-99-111-120 single crochets. Then work to and with 6th row (= 25-28-30-33-37-40 repetitions).
Repeat 5th and 6th row upwards.
When piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'', work armholes, i.e. cut the yarn. Work 6 loose chain stitches (= armholes), continue on pattern A.2 as before over all stitches and finish with 6 loose chain stitches (= armhole). Insert 1 marker here - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
On next row work 2 repetitions of A.2 over each armhole (work double crochets in chain stitches), i.e. work A.2 29-32-34-37-41-44 times in total in width.
Continue this pattern. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from marker, increase 1 repetition in each side - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-5th-5th-5th row 10 times in total = 39-42-44-47-51-54 repetitions of A.2 on last row. Continue to work until piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm / 10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼'', adjust so that next row is from right side.
Then work 7th and 8th row = 117-126-132-141-153-162 double crochets. Work last row while at the same time increasing 3-6-0-3-3-6 single crochets evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 120-132-132-144-156-168 single crochets. Insert 1 marker in each side (= marks vent).
WORK A.3 AS FOLLOWS:
Work next row as follows (= from wrong side): Work A.3c, A.3b 9-10-10-11-12-13 times in total in width, finish with A.3a. Continue until diagram is done vertically, fasten off. Entire piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Work each shoulder separately, increase and cast on chain stitches for neck and put piece together.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work 32-36-40-47-54-62 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-1-3-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 5-6-7-8-9-11 times in total = 24-27-30-36-42-48 double crochets.
Work next row as follows, begin from wrong side: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work A.1b, A.1a 8-9-10-12-14-16 times in total in width. When A.1 has been worked vertically, put piece aside.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 32-36-40-47-54-62 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-1-3-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 5-6-7-8-9-11 times in total = 24-27-30-36-42-48 double crochets.
Work next row as follows, begin from wrong side: Work A.1d 8-9-10-12-14-16 times in total in width and A.1c. When A.1 is done vertically, work 20-23-23-23-23-23 chain stitches for neck and fasten with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of last row on right shoulder. Fasten off.

FRONT PIECE:
Continue on 2nd row in A.1 (= from right side) as follows: Work A.1a over the first 11-12-13-14-17-19 chain spaces, work A.1a 6-7-7-7-7-7 times in total over chain stitches for neck (work double crochets in stitches), work A.1a over the next 11-12-13-14-17-19 chain spaces. Continue like this, i.e. work A.1a 28-31-33-37-41-45 times in total in width. When A.1 has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows until piece measures approx. 16-16-18-18-20-20 cm / 6 ¼"-6 ¼"-7"-7"-7 7/8"-7 7/8" - adjust according to last row (i.e. row worked from wrong side). Then work A.2 and A.3 the same way as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth, top down.
Work 78-84-87-90-96-99 LOOSE chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Merino. Turn - remember CROCHET INFO and work A.4 25-27-28-29-31-32 times in total in width. When A.4 has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows onwards. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 24-23-22-21-19-17 cm / 9 3/8"-9"-8 5/8"-8 ¼"-7 3/8"-6 5/8" - adjust according to row worked from wrong side (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Then work 1st and 2nd row in A.2. Work 3rd row in A.2 while at the same time increasing 9-3-0-9-3-0 single crochets evenly = 84-84-84-96-96-96 single crochets. Insert 1 marker here (= marks vent).
Work next row as follows, begin from wrong side: Work A.3c, A.3b 6-6-6-7-7-7 times in total in width, finish with A.3a. Continue until A.3 is done vertically, fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 35-34-33-32-30-28 cm / 13 ¾"-13 3/8"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾"-11".
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place front piece on top of back piece right side against right side and work shoulder together as follows: Work 1 single crochet through both layers, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', 1 single crochet through both layers *, work from *-* along the shoulder. Fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge evenly along the neck, begin from one shoulder as follows:
Work 1 single crochet around row/double crochet/chain space, * 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch, 1 single crochet around next row/double crochet/chain space *, work from *-* along the entire neck, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Fasten the sleeve to the front/back piece, begin mid under sleeve from right side. Work the pieces together the same way as on neck edge from right side but work through both layers along the entire opening. Fasten the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Work together in the sides (place right side against right side and work from wrong side), begin from one marker (= 9 cm / 3½'' for vent in the side) as follows: Work 1 single crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochets around next double crochet row *, work from *-* down to the other marker (= 9 cm / 3½'' for vent on the sleeve). Fasten off. Repeat in the other side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.06.2022
Back piece: ... Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-5th-5th-5th row 10 times in total = 39-42-44-47-51-54 repetitions of A.2 on last row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 7 chain stitches
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = single crochet in stitch/around chain stitch
symbols = double crochet/chain stich
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (in stitch): work 2 double crochets in next stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (around chain space): work 2 double crochets around chain stitch/chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = 3 DOUBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (in stitch): work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these double crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = 4 DOUBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (in stitch): work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these double crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
symbols = treble crochet in 1st/4th chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
symbols = shows previous row, row has already been worked. Begin on next row!
symbols = number on row, row begins here
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Femke wrote:

Hallo, allereerst: wat een leuk patroon is dit, dank daarvoor. Helaas loop ik bij het haken van de schouders al meteen vast. Bij het achterpand staat A.1d over alle steken haken, moet dat niet A.1d en A.1c zijn?

01.04.2023 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Femke,

Je haakt voor beide schouders eerst alleen de eerste toer van A.1 d (A.1d herhaal je dus in de breedte). Bij de rechter schouder haak je lossen aan het eind en dan ga je verder onder 'ACHTERPAND'. Pas voor het voorpand gebruik je A.1a en A.1c.

05.04.2023 - 10:46

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, Sie verwirren mich- ich habe li. und re. Schulter mit 39 LM für den Halsausschnitt verbunden. Häkel also 4 LM am Anfang und fange A1d damit an, die 2. Reihe zu häkeln. ergibt 1. Schulter 9 Lmbögen. Über den Halsausschnitt sind es 13, allerdings etwas versetzt. 2. Schulter komme ich somit auf 10 Lmbögen. Da stimmt was nicht.

20.06.2022 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, oh Sie sind schon bei der Halsausschnitt? Dann häkeln Sie zuerst die 10 x A.1d = 10 Luftmaschenbogen, dann 13 x A.1d über die 39 Luftmaschen zwischen beiden Schultern und Endlich 10 x A.1d über die 2. Schulter. Bei beiden Schulter hatten Sie nur die 1. REihe gehäkelt = Rückreihe; jetzt häkeln Sie die Hinreihe, und das Diagram lesen Sie rechts nach links. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

20.06.2022 - 15:32

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, ich habe das Rückenteil nochmal angefangen und festgestellt, dass sich ab der 2. Reihe über den Halsausschnitt sich das schwer aufzuteilen läßt. 13 habe ich bekommen, allerdings nicht auf dem letzten Abschnitt von der Schulter. Da sollten es 9 sein, sind aber 10. Einen Tipp vielleicht? Danke für Ihre Geduld.

19.06.2022 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, am Anfang häkeln Sie 40 Luftmaschen, dann haben Sie 30 Stäbchen, 1. Reihe A.1d häkeln Sie so: 3 Lm - A.1d (= 2 Lm, 2 Stb überspringen, 1 Stb in das nächste Stb) wiederholen Sie jetzt 10 Mal in der Breite (10 x 3 Maschen), so bekommen Sie 10 Luftmaschenbogen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

20.06.2022 - 08:00

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Sorry, eine Frage zum Vorderteil. Bin blind, glaub ich, wieviele LM für den Halsausschnitt? Danke Ihnen.

16.06.2022 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, die finden Sie am Ende von LINKE SCHULTER:; dh: Die nächste Rück-Reihe wie folgt häkeln: A.1d insgesamt 8-9-10-12-14-16 x in der Breite, A.1c. Wenn A.1 in der Höhe zu Ende gearbeitet wurde, 20-23-23-23-23-23 Luftmaschen für den Halsausschnitt anschlagen und mit 1 Kettmasche in die 3. Luftmasche des Beginns der letzten Reihe der rechten Schulter befestigen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

16.06.2022 - 16:32

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, bei A3c was bedeutet der Strich vor dem x in der 1. Reihe? Danke im voraus.

15.06.2022 - 22:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, es ist 1 Luftmasche (Wendemasche) dann häkeln Sie den x = 1 feste Masche in die erste Masche. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

16.06.2022 - 09:33

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Eben ist mir ein Licht aufgegangen. Wenn man auf beiden Seiten zunimmt, sind das schon 2. Insgesamt in der Höhe 5 Zunahmen. Alles gut.

14.06.2022 - 21:00

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Das meine ich, alle 4 Reihen sind bei mir 4cm hoch. 10 mal den Rapport zunehmen und das in 27cm Höhe klappt nicht.

14.06.2022 - 20:47

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, das wird knapp 10mal zunehmen und nach 27cm mit A3 beginnen.

14.06.2022 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, nach 3 cm nehmen Sie beidseitig in jeder 4. Reihe zu; und nach 27 cm häkeln Sie die 7. und 8. Reihe in Diagram und dann häkeln Sie A.3. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.06.2022 - 17:06

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Leider nicht, wie verbinde ich die 6 LM mit dem Muster, wenn ich 6LM anschlagen soll?

13.06.2022 - 16:44

Sandra Langer answered:

Sorry, habe es jetzt selber gehäkelt so wie ich es mal gelernt habe. Geht auch.

13.06.2022 - 20:55

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, danke Ihnen für die Antwort. Mir ist jetzt nicht ganz klar wie ich die 6 LM integrieren soll. Habe das nochmal aufgezogen. Einfacher finde ich es, wenn ich die Lm anschliessend mit festen Maschen anhäkel. Allerdings durchbreche ich damit die 5. und 6. Reihe in der Wiederholung.

13.06.2022 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, A.2 wird über 3 Maschen gehäkelt, dh Sie häkeln 2 Mal A.2 in der Breite über diese 6 LM beiseitig. Reihen beginnen wie unter HÄKELINFORMATION beschrieben. Die 5. Reihe ist eine HinReihe und die 6. Reihe eine Rückreihe, die beginnen beide mit 3 LM und dann lesen Sie Diagramme rechts nach links (Hinreihen) und links nach rechts (Rückreihen) und die Reihen enden mit 1 Stb/1 fM in die 1./3. LM der vorrigen Reihe. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen.

13.06.2022 - 16:26