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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 191
  6. 30

Riviera Stripes by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with textured pattern, stripes and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, assembly free, madame, maritime, oversized, poncho sweater, raglan, round neck, stocking stitch, stripes, sweater, top down

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DROPS 191-30
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-084
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 01, off white
50-50-75-75-75-75 g colour 13, denim blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 28 rows textured pattern on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 		from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.65$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 96 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4. In this example make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch, when increasing; on the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing knit every 3rd and 4th stitch together (in this example).

STRIPES:
* Work 2½-3-3-3-3½-3½ cm with denim blue, work 5-5-5-5½-5½-5½ cm with off white *, repeat from *-* onwards.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes.
Increase 1 stitch (= 2 new stitches on each sleeve) as follows:
After A.2: Make 1 yarn over.
Before A.2: Make 1 yarn over.
Work the new stitches into the pattern.

RAGLAN FRONT/BACK PIECE:
The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes.
Increase 2 stitches (= 4 new stitches on front piece/4 new stitches on back piece) as follows:
After A.2: Make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over.
Before A.2: Work until there is 1 stitch left before A.2, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over.
Increase 1 stitch (= 2 new stitches on front piece/2 new stitches on back piece) as follows:
After A.2: Make 1 yarn over.
Before A.2: Make 1 yarn over.
Work the new stitches into the pattern.
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SWEATER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. The body is divided for the split and the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 96-96-96-102-102-102 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and off white. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Knit 1 round and increase 24-24-28-30-34-50 evenly on this round - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 120-120-124-132-136-152 stitches.
Now start the STRIPES - see description above. The next round is worked as follows: The round starts approx. mid back. Work A.1 over the first 22-22-22-24-24-28 stitches (= half back piece), work A.2 (= 3 stitches), work A.1 over the next 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches (= sleeve), A.2, work A.1 over the next 42-42-44-46-48-56 stitches (= front piece), A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches, A.2, work A.1 over the last 20-20-22-22-24-28 stitches (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue the pattern like this and increase to RAGLAN - see description above. The increases are different on front/back pieces and on the sleeves as follows:
SLEEVE:
Increase every 2nd round a total of 17-18-18-22-23-24 times, then every 4th round a total of 7-8-9-8-9-10 times.
FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 2 stitches on each side of A.2 every 2nd round a total of 6-9-12-18-21-24 times, then increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2 every 2nd round a total of 25-25-24-20-20-20 times.

After all the increases to raglan there are 364-396-424-476-512-560 stitches on the needle. Continue in the round without increasing until the piece measures 22-24-26-27-29-31 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8" from after the neck.

The next round is worked as follows: Work A.1 over the first 61-67-72-82-88-98 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 62-66-68-76-80-84 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, work A.1 over the next 120-132-144-162-176-196 stitches (= front piece), place the next 62-66-68-76-80-84 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, work A.1 over the last 59-65-72-80-88-98 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 240-264-288-324-352-392 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side.
Continue with stripes and A.1 as before over all stitches. When the piece measures approx. 19-19-19-20-20-20 cm / 7 3/8"-7 3/8"-7 3/8"-7 7/8"-7 7/8"-7 7/8" from the division – adjust so that you finish after a stripe with denim blue, continue working with off white to finished length. Work 1 round stockinette stitch where you increase 6-6-6-6-2-4 stitches evenly on round = 246-270-294-330-354-396 stitches. Now divide the piece and the front and back pieces are finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 123-135-147-165-177-198 stitches. Continue by working rib as follows - from the right side: 3 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 3 and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 9 cm / 3½'', loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE:
= 123-135-147-165-177-198 stitches. Work as for front piece.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
Place the 62-66-68-76-80-84 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Continue with stripes as before and pattern A.1 over all stitches. When you have worked 1 stripe with denim blue on the sleeve continue with off white to finished length. When the piece measures approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' from the division knit 1 round where you decrease 2-0-2-4-2-0 stitches evenly on round = 60-66-66-72-78-84 stitches. Work rib (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 9 cm / 3½''. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.05.2018
Edited yarn amount.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Christiane Josy wrote:

Wenn ich dieses Modell mit Drops Paris stricke, brauche ich dann die gleiche Wollmenge, wie mit Brushed Alpaka Silk, obwohl die Paris eine ganz andere Lauflänge hat? Oder muss ich das umrechnen?

24.04.2021 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Josy, benutzen Sie unseren Garnumechner, so lassen Sie sich die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.04.2021 kl. 09:21

country flag Aneta wrote:

Ale jeszcze chce sie dopytac o 3 etap dodawania oczek.8 razy na tył i przód,a na rekaw co 4 okrążenie -ale ile razy?4tylko?to mi sie nie zgadza ilosc koncowa oczek

04.02.2021 - 12:24

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aneto, łącznie będziesz dodawać do 68 okrążenia. Na rękawach ostatni etap to zamykanie 8 x 4 o. co 4 okrążenia, na tyle i przodzie ostatni etap to 25 x 4 o. co 2 okrążenia. A teraz obliczenia: RĘKAWY: (18 x 4 o.)+(8 x 4 o.)= dodane 104 o. TYŁ&PRZÓD: (9 x 8 o.)+(25 x 4 o.)= dodane 172 o. Łącznie mamy dodanych na reglan 276 o. I zgadza się wszystko: 120 początkowe + 276 dodanych o. = 396 o. dla rozmiaru M (po dodaniu oczek na reglan). Powodzenia!

04.02.2021 kl. 17:26

country flag Aneta wrote:

Dziekuje Agnieszce za pomoc.jak sie zrozumie opis to robi sie bardzo fajnie.ja robie cały biały z alpaki i kid silku.fason świetny i nowoczesny.powodzenia

04.02.2021 - 12:10

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Trudność jest taka że dodajesz oczka na rękawy i na tył/przód 1) w innej częstotliwości 2) inna jest liczba dodawanych oczek (1 oczko, gdy po prostu wykonujesz 1 narzut obok tych 3 o.p., albo 2 o. -dotyczy tylko fragmentu tyłu/przodu- gdzie obok tych 3 o.p. wykonujesz 1 narzut, 1 o.p. i 1 narzut). Musisz to sobie rozpisać, aby się nie pomylić.

29.01.2021 - 17:33

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Na rękawy: dodawać za schematem A.2 na początku każdego rękawa i przed schematem A.2 na końcu każdego rękawa: 18 razy co 2 okrążenia i 8 razy co 4 okrążenia; na tyle/przodzie: dodawać 9 razy 2 oczka za schematem A.2 na początku tyłu i przodu, i przed schematem A.2 na końcu tyłu i przodu co 2 okrążenia, dalej dodawać 1 oczko 25 razy za schematem A.2 na początku tyłu i przodu i przed schematem A.2 na końcu tyłu i przodu co 2 okrążenia. Powodzenia

29.01.2021 - 17:28

country flag Aneta wrote:

Nic nie rozumiem z tego opisu,nic.o co tu chodzi?zrobiłam z tej strony 3 swetry i mimo ze nie jestem doswiadczona to poszło mi dobrze,ale ten opis jest nie do pojecia dla mnie.chodzi o reglan i te dwa wzory A1 i A2.nawet trudno mi zadac konkretne pytanie bo nie wiem o co chodzi.błagam o pomoc bo bardzo zalezy mina tym swetrze.dzieki

29.01.2021 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aneto, cały sweter jest przerabiany wg schematu A.1, schemat A.2 stanowią 3 oczka każdego skosu raglanu (4 miejsca) i one są przerabiane cały czas na prawo. Z każdej strony tych 3 oczek prawych są dodawane oczka na reglany. Dodane oczka na reglany będą przerabiane wg schematu A.1 w miarę postępu robótki. W rozmiarze M dodajesz oczka na reglan inaczej na tyle/przodzie, a inaczej na rękawach (ale dzieje się to jednocześnie). cd nastąpi

29.01.2021 kl. 17:25

country flag BAULON wrote:

Bonjour Je ne trouve pas la correction du nombre de pelotes pour le tricot de ce modèle. Pouvez-vous me l’indiquer par réponse ? Merci Cordialement

22.01.2021 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Baulon, le modèle actuel est déjà corrigé, autrement dit, cette correction ne s'applique que si vous aviez imprimé le modèle avant le 18 mai 2018, date de la correction. Bon tricot!

25.01.2021 kl. 13:04

country flag Annette Werger wrote:

Waar kan ik de aanpassing in garen terugvinden?? ' Dit patroon is gecorrigeerd. Klik hier om de correcties te bekijken.. Gewijzigd online: 18.05.2018 Benodigde hoeveelheid garen aangepast'

16.01.2021 - 10:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annette,

De correcties zijn in de online versie altijd al verwerkt, zodra er bij staat dat het patroon gecorrigeerd is. Als je een afdruk hebt van voor de correctiedatum, dan is de aanpassing nog niet verwerkt in de afdruk.

17.01.2021 kl. 11:37

country flag Caroline Lines wrote:

The measurements for the width of this jumper says 115cm for the largest size so that is a total of 230cm all way round...that is HUGE, just want to confirm that is correct

13.01.2021 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lines, measurements are correct, as shown on the pictures, this jumper is oversize. Happy knitting!

14.01.2021 kl. 07:35

country flag Lena wrote:

Hej! Kan man välja att inte sticka mönster A1 och istället bara sticka slätstickning? När jag tittar på bilderna så ser det ut som om det är enbart slätstickning.

26.12.2020 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena. Det är lite svårt att se på bilderna men det är strukturmönster. Vill du sticka den i slätstickning så kan du göra det men det är viktigt att du då får samma stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret även i slätstickning för att måtten ska stämma. Mvh DROPS Design

05.01.2021 kl. 12:16

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