DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Madrid Cardigan

Knitted jacket with raglan, cables, lace pattern and split in sides, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Cotton Light.

DROPS 188-20
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-088
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 21, light beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16'' + 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16'' + 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6 items for all sizes.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of each repeat of A.1/A.2 (= 8 stitches increased on the row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 128 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 29.5. In this example, increase alternately after every 29th and 30th stitch. Do not increase over the bands.
Increase with a yarn over after the stitch and work the yarn over twisted on the next row to avoid a hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides):
All increases are made from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next row (from the wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 stitches together, (marker thread here), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row and then work as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit together the next 2 stitches and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5 buttonholes with 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 ½"-3 ½"-3 ½" between each.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 123-128-133-138-148-158 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Cotton Light. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, (knit 3 / purl 2) until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this until the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' (last row is worked from the wrong side). Remember BUTTONHOLE! Work 1 ridge where, on the first row, you increase 1-4-7-6-8-14 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced) = 124-132-140-144-156-172 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Insert a marker here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work pattern from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 8-10-12-13-16-20 stitches stockinette stitch (= left front piece), make 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 20 stitches), 1 yarn over, 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.2 (= 20 stitches), 1 yarn over, 16-20-24-26-32-40 stitches stockinette stitch (= back piece), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.2, 1 yarn over, 8-10-12-13-16-20 stitches stockinette stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece).
The first increase to RAGLAN – see description above, is now finished. Continue the pattern like this and increase every 2nd row a total of 24-27-30-33-36-39 times = 316-348-380-408-444-484 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When all the increases to raglan are finished, the piece measures 17-19-21-24-26-28 cm / 6 5/8"-7 3/8"-8 ¼"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11". Continue without increasing until the piece measures 19-21-23-24-26-29 cm / 7 3/8"-8 ¼"-9"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11 3/8". The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 32-37-42-46-52-59 stitches stockinette stitch, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, purl 2, knit 2 (= left front piece), place the next 69-75-81-87-93-99 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), knit 2, purl 2, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, work 64-74-84-92-104-118 stitches stockinette stitch, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, purl 2, knit 2 (= back piece), place the next 69-75-81-87-93-99 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), knit 2, purl 2, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, work 32-37-42-46-52-59 stitches stockinette stitch (= right front piece), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 194-214-234-250-274-302 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on. Continue back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front, stockinette stitch and A.3 (= 28 stitches) over the 8 new stitches cast on under the sleeves + 10 stitches on each side of these (i.e. 14 stitches on each side of the marker thread in each side). When A.3 has been completed in height, the piece measures 9 cm / 3½''. Continue back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides)! Increase like this every 3 cm / 1'' a total of 3 times = 206-226-246-262-286-314 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 16-16-16-17-17-16 cm / 6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 5/8"-6 5/8"-6 ¼" - adjust so that the last row worked is from the wrong side.
Now the piece is divided into front and back pieces and each piece is finished separately. Place the first and last 54-59-64-68-74-81 stitches on 2 separate threads for the right and left front pieces and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 98-108-118-126-138-152 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 23-23-23-24-24-23 cm / 9"-9"-9"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9" increase 30-30-30-37-40-41 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) = 128-138-148-163-178-193 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge. Work rib from the right side as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3 / purl2) until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 3, 5 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch. The piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 54-59-64-68-74-81 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 23-23-23-24-24-23 cm / 9"-9"-9"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9" increase 14-14-14-15-19-22 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) = 68-73-78-83-93-103 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge. Work rib from the right side as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3 / purl 2) until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch. The piece measures a total of 52-54- 56-58- 60-62 cm / 20 3/8"-21 ¼"-22"-22 ¾"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 54-59-64-68-74-81 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 23-23-23-24-24-23 cm / 9"-9"-9"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9" increase 14-14-14-15-19-22 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) = 68-73-78-83-93-103 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge. Work rib from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3 / purl 2) until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 3, 5 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch. The piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 69-75-81-87-93-99 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece onto double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and, in addition, knit up 1 new stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 77-83-89-95-101-107 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 4 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Work A.4 (= 28 stitches) mid under the sleeve so that there are 14 stitches of A.4 on each side of the marker thread mid under sleeve. The remaining stitches on the round are worked knitted. When the whole of A.4 has been worked in height you have decreased 18 stitches = 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches. Continue to decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 10th-7th-6th-5th-4th-3rd round a total of 7-9-11-13-15-17 times = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue with knit until the sleeve measures 37-35-34-33-32-29 cm / 14 ½"-13 ¾"-13 3/8"-13"-12 ½"-11 3/8". Now increase 5-8-6-9-7-10 stitches evenly on round = 50-55-55-60-60-65 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge. Then work rib (knit 3 / purl 2) until the sleeve measures 42-40-39-38-37-34 cm / 16 ½"-15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14 7/8"-14 ½"-13 3/8" from the division. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band. Fasten the strands.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.05.2018
Correction: The first row of the neck line is purled from the wrong side - previously purled from the right side

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole. When working in the round (on the sleeves) the yarn over is knitted to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row, purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. When working in the round (on the sleeves) the yarn over is knitted twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = when the diagram has been completed in height, repeat the pattern from the row marked with an arrow
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 188-20

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Gabriele wrote:

Hallo, ich versuche sie Strickschrift seit 3 Tagen zu drucken,funktioniert nicht auch nicht bei meiner Freundin. Bitte senden sie mir doch die Strickschrift im pdfFormat. Dankeschön im Vorraus, Gabriele

21.12.2022 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabriele, wir könnten diese Anleitung ganz normal drucken - auf dem Knopf "drucken" drücken, um ein neues Fenster zu öffnen, dann können Sie entweder Ihren Drucker oder einen virtuellen Drucker (und als .PDF zu speichern) wählen - sonnst kann Ihnen gerne Ihr DROPS Händler damit helfen, die Anleitung Ihnen zu senden - fragen Sie ihm entweder per Telefon oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.12.2022 - 14:21

country flag Nelly wrote:

Bonjour Pensez vous qu’il est possible de remplacer les mailles de bordure au point mousse par le point de côtés 1/1 afin que la bordure soit plus rigide ? ou alors de la faire après en reprenant les mailles et en supprimant 10 mailles au modèle ?

29.10.2022 - 04:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nelly, les deux sont probablement faisables, tout dépend du résultat que vous préférez. Bon tricot!

31.10.2022 - 08:26

country flag P Laurence wrote:

Bonjour, jai des difficultés avec le diagramme A3\r\n Lorsqu on effectue les 2 mailles ensemble puis les mailles glissées au centre, on diminue donc de 2 mailles. Au rang suivant, on décale les mailles envers vers le centre, je me retrouve avec 8 mailles centrales et non pas 10 .... quelque chose m\'échappe. Merc.i

27.08.2021 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laurence, A.3 se tricote sur les 8 mailles du milieu sous la manche + 10 mailles avant et 10 mailles après, le jeté au début et à la fin de A.3 va décaler le motif vers le centre et les diminutions au milieu de A.3 vont le diminuer - autrement dit, ces 28 mailles vont faire disparaître le motif en forme de pointe sur les côtés. Est-ce que ceci peut vous aider?

27.08.2021 - 08:06

country flag Mrs Harknett wrote:

Why must patterns be top to bottom. In England we knit from bottom to top. Very confusing also why round needles when we use two needles

29.11.2020 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Harknett, Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps. The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual. About the needles, we usually use round needles since they're more comfortable to work with when there is a large amount of stitches and because it allows us to work without seams, all in one piece. Happy knitting!

29.11.2020 - 18:23

country flag MAMA ULI wrote:

Nach Muster A. 3 habe ich 24 Maschen zu wenig. Wo ist der Fehler? Im Muster werden 36 Maschen abgenommen und seitlich anschließend 12 zugenommen. Ich komme nie und nimmer auf 226 Maschen in Größe M.

16.05.2020 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mama Uli, in A.3 werden keine Maschen zugenommen, aber es wird nach A.3 1 Masche beidseitig jeder Markierung auf beiden Seiten zugenommen = 4 Maschen x 3 = 12 Maschen + 214= 226 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.05.2020 - 08:11

country flag Mhvaurs wrote:

Pour la taille xl le patron n est pas juste après les cotes il manque pas de maille pour continuer . C est une déception !

21.05.2019 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mhvaurs, après le col, vous avez 144 m (on a augmenté 6 m à la fin des côtes) et vous tricotez ainsi: 5 mailles point mousse, 13 m jersey (= devant gauche), 1 jeté, A.1 (= 20 m), 1 jeté, 1 m jersey (= manche), 1 jeté, A.2 (= 20 m), 1 jeté, 26 m jersey (= dos), 1 jeté, A.1 (= 20 m), 1 jeté, 1 m jersey (= manche), 1 jeté, A.2 (= 20 m), 1 jeté, 13 m jersey, 5 mailles point mousse (= devant droit) soit: 5+12+(1) +20 +(1)+1+(1)+ 20 + (1)+26+(1) + 20 + (1)+1+(1) + 20 + (1)+13+5= 144 m + (8) jetés = 152 m après ce rang. Bon tricot!

22.05.2019 - 09:48

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo, bin beim Ärmel und verstehe nicht, wie es bei A4 zu Abnahmen kommen soll, wenn doch nach/vor dem 2 zusammenstricken gleich wieder ein U gemacht wird, der zu einer neuen Masche wird? Das würde auch den Madrid-Pullover betreffen. Ich versuche es mal ohne Umschläge ...

04.08.2018 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, bei den 1., 3., 5. und 7. Reihe in A.4 haben Sie 2 Umschläge aber 4 Abnahmen = es wird in jeder diese Reihen 2 M im Diagram abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.08.2018 - 08:51

country flag Naudan Suzanne wrote:

Je ne sais pas tricoter avec des aiguilles circulaires. Est il possible d'obtenir les explications de ce modèle en tricotant de bas en haut et si possible morceau par morceau. Merci

26.07.2018 - 08:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Naudan, le gilet se tricote en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles, vous pouvez le tricoter sur aiguilles droites, mais pensez à bien vérifier votre tension car les mailles seront beaucoup plus serrées - lisez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

26.07.2018 - 10:13

country flag Ked wrote:

Why wasn't this sweater included when I asked for "Raglan"?

19.07.2018 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ked, this pattern is listed under "Raglan" - see here. Happy knitting!

19.07.2018 - 11:57