DROPS / 186 / 7

Belle Époque by DROPS Design

Fitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.

  • Belle Époque / DROPS 186-7 - Fitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
  • Belle Époque / DROPS 186-7 - Fitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
  • Belle Époque / DROPS 186-7 - Fitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
DROPS design: Pattern w-699
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g color 101, light blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edge in garter stitch in the neck and at the bottom around both sleeves.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – for edge in garter stitch at the bottom of body.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 98 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 5.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2, A.4, A.5, A.7 and A.8). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarns over to make holes.
Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch on sleeves and according to diagram on front and back piece.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to purl sections on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in every purl section by making 1 yarn over before all 2 purl stitches. On next row (wrong side) knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
On next increase make 1 yarn over after every 3 purl stitches. Continue increase by alternately increasing at beginning and end of purl section.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-4 (applies to sections in stockinette stitch over A.7/A.8 on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
When A.7/A.8 has been done, work in stockinette stitch over the 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches with lace pattern. Increase over these 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches as follows: Work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until 1 stitch in stockinette stitch remains, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after edge in garter stitch in neck. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 7-7-7½-7-7½-7½ cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 7/8'' between each.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 98-102-106-110-114-118 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 17-13-9-15-11-7 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 115-115-115-125-125-125 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches), A.2 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 35-35-35-41-41-41 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.5 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), work A.6 (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front = 129-129-129-139-139-139 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.3/A.6).
Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on every row from right side increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, until increase has been done 14-18-20-21-24-26 times on each side of A.3 (including increases on first row from right side after neck edge). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
NOTE! When A.2/A.4/A.5 has been worked, continue pattern the same way, but work the next increased stitches on each side of A.3 in stockinette stitch. In size S the increases for raglan is done when 3 rows remain in A.2/A.4/A.5, continue pattern without increase as explained below.
After last increase for raglan there are 237-269-285-303-327-343 stitches on needle if it is on a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6 or 243-275-291-309-333-349 stitches if it is on a row with 8/9/8 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6.
Continue pattern as before without increases for raglan until piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10½'' from cast-on edge mid front, but finish so that last row is a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6.
Work next row as follows from right side: Continue with band, pattern and in stockinette stitch as before over the first 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue in stockinette stitch and pattern as before over the next 65-73-77-85-93-101 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and continue in stockinette stitch, pattern and band over the remaining 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 153-169-181-197-217-237 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side and move the marker threads upwards when working.
Begin from wrong side and work 1 row with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit.
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 (= 7 or 8 stitches), work A.7 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram where pattern was finished at division), work in stockinette stitch over the next 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches, A.8 over the next 55-55-55-65-65-65 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct diagram), purl 2, 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.8 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram), continue A.6 (= 7 or 8 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue the pattern like this – READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!

DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 1 cm / 3/8'' from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 5 times in total in each side = 131-147-159-175-195-215 stitches (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6).

INCREASE IN PURL SECTIONS:
When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' from division, increase 1 stitch in every purl section marked with arrow in diagram (i.e. increase in all purl sections except the one purl section closest mid front in each side = 12 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 5 cm / 2'' 6 times in total in every purl section (there are now 8 stitches in each of these purl sections).

INCREASE IN THE SIDES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'' from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm / 2 3/8'' 3 times in total in each side.

INCREASE IN STOCKINETTE STITCH SECTIONS:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6'' from division, finish A.7 and A.8 after one whole repetition vertically. Then work knit over knit and purl over purl over these stitches. On next row from right side increase 2 stitches in each stockinette stitch section over A.7/A.8 - read INCREASE TIP-4 (= 18 stitches increased).
Repeat this increase after 2 cm / 3/4'' (= 18 stitches increased).

When all increases are done there are 251-267-279-295-315-335 stitches on row (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' from shoulder and down, but adjust so that next row is worked from right side.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and cast loosely off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 55-63-69-70-76-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1"-1'' from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm / 1 1/4"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-3/8"-3/8'' 7-10-12-12-14-14 times in total = 41-43-45-46-48-50 stitches.
Continue until sleeve measures 26-25-24-21-20-19 cm / 10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9½"-8 1/4"-8"-7½'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 40-40-40-48-48-48. Work A.9 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.9 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-25-24-23 cm / 11 3/4"-11½"-11"-9 3/4"-9½"-9'' from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the last 2 stitches
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = increase in this purl section
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Gisèle ROUSSEAU 31.03.2021 - 18:47:

Bonjour, après maintes péripéties enfin terminé avec succès, savez vous comment mettre la photo Merci

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 08:53:

Bonjour Mme Rousseau, vous pouvez volontiers la publier dans notre DROPS Workshop ou bien/et partager votre lien pour la galerie ici. Bonne continuation!

country flag Mary Vostal 19.03.2021 - 01:16:

On the yoke after completing the 8 rows do we start those charts over again from the bottom up or top down with charts A1, A3 and A6?

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 07:44:

Dear Mrs Vostal, correct, repeat A.1, A.3 and A.6 from first row again. Happy knitting!

country flag Mary Vostal 27.02.2021 - 02:33:

For medium size .On theYOKE , WS 2nd row, do we start knitting following the chart with A6 OR A1 like on the RS. Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 28.02.2021 kl. 21:58:

Hi Mary, on the wrong side (2nd row) you should start with A.6. Please see the lesson drops How to read knitting diagrams HERE. Happy knitting!

country flag Mary Vostal 26.02.2021 - 13:36:

I understand where Row 1 RS gets to 129. It is Row 2 WS that is the problem because the chart stitch total as I showed in my last question only comes to 125. so where do the other 4 stitches come from to get to 129

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2021 kl. 16:07:

Dear Mrs Vostal, on row 2 you should still have 129 sts since the yarn overs in the small diagrams (A.1, A.6 and A.3) will be decreeased only on row 3. It's a bit difficult to know why your are missing stitches, try to add markers and check out the number of sts - or bring/show your work to your store (even a photo can help) so that they can see what you did and can help further, this might help too. Happy knitting!

country flag Mary 26.02.2021 - 13:02:

For Medium size. I understand that but after completing RS row one there are 129 stitches. Row 2 WS chart count is only 125 stitches. Band stitches = 10; A1=8; A2=11, 4(A3's=36); 2 stocking stitches x 2 =4; A4 = 37; A5=11; and A6=8. TOTAL STITCHES = 125 so where do the other 4 stitches come from to match Row 1 at 129???

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2021 kl. 13:23:

Dear Mary, you are increasing for raglan with yarn overs as explained on the first row = 8 yarn overs (1 on each side of each A.3) + the yarn overs in diagrams (= 1 yarn over in A.1+ 1 yarn over in A.6 + 1 yarn over in each of the 4 A.3) = 115 + 8 + 6= 129 sts. Happy knitting!

country flag Mary Vostal 26.02.2021 - 02:11:

I am going crazy as I have done this 3 x. I knit the first row of the yoke RS and come up with 129 stitches but the second row WS keeps coming up 124 and when I actually count the squares on the WS there are only 125. Shouldn't the 1st and 2nd row be the same amount of stitches and then the 3rd row should be increased by 8 for 137 and the WS should be the same. why cant I get it to work but

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2021 kl. 08:33:

Dear Mrs Vostal, the number of stitches in A.1 and A.6 will varry between 7 and 8 stitches and the one in A.3 will vary between 8 and 9 stitches - since you are working yarn overs (row 1 and 5) that you will decrease on row 3 and 7. So when starting the first row on yoke, you are increasing for raglan + 1 yarn over in each of these diagrams = there are 129 sts at the end of this row, but on row 3 in diagrams you will decrease the yarn overs made in these diagrams. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

country flag Gisele ROUSSEAU 20.12.2020 - 15:58:

Bonjours, pourriez-vous m'expliquer comment tricoter le diagramme A1 avec le decalage je ne comprend pas. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 21.12.2020 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Mme Rousseau, il n'y a pas de décalage dans A.1, en revanche quand on fait 1 jeté au 1er rang, on augmente 1 m = on va donc avoir 1 maille en plus que l'on diminuera au 3ème rang. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter ce type de petites torsades ajourées. Bon tricot!

country flag Gisele ROUSSEAU 20.12.2020 - 15:37:

Bonjour, pourriez vous svp m'expliquer pourquoi apres avoir tricoté en taille M le 1er rang soit 102 mailles + l'augmentation demandée de 13 mailles soit 115 mailles,plus les 8 jetes de l'empiecement je trouve 123 mailles au lieu des 129 indiquees sur le modele. Avec mes remerciements pour votre reponse.

user icon DROPS Design 20.12.2020 kl. 23:21:

Bonjour Gisele, c'est parce que vous n'avez pas compte les jetés du 1er rang de A.1/A.3/A.6 (6 mailles supplementaires). 123+6=129. Bon tricot!

country flag Delamare 18.12.2020 - 20:31:

Bonjours, pourriez vous m'indiquer l'adresse du tuto car j'ai plusieurs problemes notamment sur le diagramme les symboles noirs que faire des mailles existantes. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 21.12.2020 kl. 07:03:

Bonjour Mme Delamare, les cases noires des diagrammes (= avant-dernier symbole de la légende) ne sont pas des mailles à ce stade là des diagrammes car elles n'ont pas encore été augmentées (=jetés sans diminutions faites au dernier rang des cases noires). Passez simplement ces cases comme si elles n'existaient pas, vous aurez donc 2 mailles envers côte à côte (comme au début et à la fin de A.4). Boin tricot!

country flag Carol 30.11.2020 - 01:54:

Can you send me this pattern? My printer will not print from my phone

user icon DROPS Design 30.11.2020 kl. 10:19:

Dear Carol, you can print this pattern with the help of "print" button and/or choose a virtual printer to save it as a .PDF; you are also welcome to ask your DROPS store for a printed pattern. Happy knitting!

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