DROPS / 186 / 2

Primrose Dress by DROPS Design

Dress with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

  • Primrose Dress / DROPS 186-2 - Dress with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.
  • Primrose Dress / DROPS 186-2 - Dress with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.
  • Primrose Dress / DROPS 186-2 - Dress with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.
DROPS design: Pattern cm-083
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-750-800-900-1000-1050 g color 13, raspberry

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams A.1 and A.5 show how diagram begins and ends. On 7th, 11th and 13th round, A.5 and A.1 do not replace first stitch in A.4 and A.2, i.e. the rounds start with 3 chain stitches (does not replace first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first stitch in A.2 and A.4. On the remaining rounds, first stitch in A.2 and A.4 is replaced with A.1 and A.5

CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every round with double crochet replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
On every round with single crochets replace first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 94 double crochets) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 18) = 5.2. I.e. in this example work 2 double crochets in approx. 5th double crochet.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to side of body):
Work until 2 double crochets remain before marker thread, work 2 double crochets in next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these double crochets), work 2 double crochets in next double crochet. Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 double crochets increased in total).

WORK 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Decrease 1 double crochet on each side of every marker thread as follows: Work until 3 double crochets remain before marker thread, WORK 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER - see explanation above, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work the next 2 double crochets together. Decrease like this at both marker threads (= 4 double crochets decreased in total).

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to evenly decrease, take the total number of stitches on round (for example 60 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases that should be made (for example 6) = 10. In this example work every 9th and 10th stitch together.
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DRESS:
Work in the round top down. Round begins approx. mid back (this varies in the different sizes due to number of pattern repetitions on back piece).

YOKE:
Work 108-108-117-117-124-124 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Merino and form 1 ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work first round as follows: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-3-5-5-5-5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 94-94-102-102-108-108 double crochets. Work 1 round with 1 double crochet in every double crochet and increase 18-18-22-22-28-40 double crochets evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 112-112-124-124-136-148 double crochets.
Work next round and insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: A.1 shows how round begins and ends - read PATTERN. Work A.2 (= 6 double crochets) over the first 18-18-24-24-24-30 double crochets (= 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in width) (= approx. half back piece), A.3 (= 4 double crochets), insert 1st marker thread, A.2 over the next 12 double crochets (= 2 times in width), insert 2nd marker thread, A.3 over the next 4 double crochets (= sleeve), A.2 over the next 36-36-42-42-48-54 double crochets (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width) (= front piece), A.3 over the next 4 double crochets, insert 3rd marker thread, A.2 over the next 12 double crochets (= 2 times in width), insert 4th marker thread, A.3 over the next 4 double crochets (= sleeve) and finish with A.2 over the last 18-18-18-18-24-24 double crochets (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagram A.3.
AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly on sleeve (i.e. between 1st and 2nd marker thread and between 3rd and 4th marker thread) as follows:
ROUND 8: Increase 0-6-6-6-6-6 double crochets on each sleeve (= 0-12-12-12-12-12 double crochets increased in total).
ROUND 10: Increase 0-0-0-0-6-6 double crochets on each sleeve (= 0-0-0-0-12-12 double crochets increased in total).
ROUND 14: Increase 0-0-0-0-0-6 double crochets on each sleeve (= 0-0-0-0-0-12 double crochets increased in total).
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240-252-264-264-288-312 double crochets on last round. Piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6''.
Work the first 0-0-2-2-4-4 rounds of A.2a over all stitches. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½''.
Now work double crochets over body and pattern over sleeves as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 33-33-39-39-39-45 double crochets and increase 0-2-2-2-2-2 double crochets evenly (= approx. half back piece), work A.4 (= 6 double crochets) over the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 double crochets (= 9-10-10-10-11-12 times in width) (= sleeve), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 66-66-72-72-78-84 double crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly (= front piece), A.4 over the next 54-60-66-60-66-72 double crochets (= 9-10-11-10-11-12 times in width) (= sleeve) and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 33-33-33-33-39-39 double crochets and increase 0-2-2-2-2-2 double crochets evenly (= approx. half back piece) (= 0-8-8-8-8-8 double crochets increased in total). Increase like this every round 0-2-2-3-4-5 times in total = 240-268-280-288-320-352 stitches.
On round 7, 10 and 12 in diagram A.4a work transition between double crochets and pattern as follows: Work double crochets until 1 double crochet remains before pattern, work 2 chain stitches and 1 single crochet in last double crochet, work pattern as before, work 1 single crochet in first double crochet after pattern and 2 chain stitches.
Continue like this until piece measures 18-19-21-23-25-27 cm / 7"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10½''. Now divide sleeves and body as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 33-37-43-45-47-55 double crochets (= approx. half back piece), work 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches, skip the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (= A.4) for sleeve, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 66-74-80-84-94-104 double crochets (= front piece), work 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches, skip the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (= A.4) for sleeve and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 33-37-37-39-47-49 double crochets (= approx. half back piece). Finish sleeves and body separately.

BODY:
= 144-160-172-192-212-232 double crochets/chain stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under each sleeve. Continue with 1 double crochet in every stitch. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from where body was divided for sleeves, decrease 1 double crochet on each side of every marker thread (= 4 double crochets decreased) - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 0-3½-6-3½-3½-0 cm / 0"-1 1/4"-2 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-0'' 1-3-2-3-3-1 time in total = 140-148-164-180-200-228 double crochets. Continue with 1 double crochet in every double crochet.
When piece measures 37-39-41-43-45-47 cm / 14½''-15¼''-16 1/8''-17''-17¾''-18½'' from neck edge, increase 1 double crochet on each side of every marker thread (= 4 double crochets increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 1½ cm / ½'' 16-17-16-15-19-18 times in total = 204-216-228-240-276-300 double crochets. When piece measures 47-48-48-48-48-48 cm / 18½"-19"-19"-19"-19"-19"'' from where piece was divided from sleeves, work A.4a over all stitches (= 34-36-38-40-46-50 times in width). Diagram A.5 shows how every round begins and ends. When A.4a has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 59-60-60-60-60-60 cm / 23 1/4"-23½"-23½"-23½"-23½-"23½'' from where piece was divided from sleeves. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 77-79-81-83-85-87 cm / 30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾''-33½''-34¼'' from neck edge.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round, top down. Work 1 single crochet in the 1st chain stitch of the 6-6-12-12-12-12 chain stitches worked in armhole on body, work A.4a over chain stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in width), adjust pattern according to rest of sleeve, then work pattern as before over the 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (i.e. work A.4a, A.5 shows how every round begins and ends) = 60-66-72-72-78-84 stitches.
Diagram A.4a is now worked 10-11-12-12-13-14 times in width. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from where sleeves were divided from body, adjust so that next round is 1 round with double crochets, decrease 6 double crochets evenly – READ DECREASE TIP-1. Work A.4a 1 time less in width. Decrease like this every 8-6-6-5-5-3 cm / 3"-2½"-2½"-2"-2"-1'' 2-3-3-3-3-4 times in total = 48-48-54-54-60-60 double crochets. A.4a is now worked 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in width. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 22-22-20-18-17-15 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8"-7"-6 3/4"-6'' from where sleeve was divided from body, adjust so that next round is a round with double crochets. On next round increase 24-24-30-30-36-36 double crochets evenly = 72-72-84-84-96-96 double crochets. A.4a is now worked 12-12-14-14-16-16 times in width. Continue like this until sleeve measures 34-34-32-30-29-27 cm / 13½"-13½"-12½"-11 3/4"-11½"-10½'' from where it was divided from body, adjust to finish nicely according to pattern. Fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-53-53-53-54-54 cm / 20½"-21"-21"-21"-21 1/4"-21 1/4'' from neck edge.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck. Begin mid back. Work * 1 single crochet in first/next double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Make sure to avoid a tight neck edge, adjust to finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.01.2019
Please add the following
Correction - YOKE: ROUND 10: Increase 0-0-0-0-6-6 double crochets on each sleeve (= 0-0-0-0-12-12 double crochets increased in total)... Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 33-37-43-45-47-55 double crochets (= approx. half back piece), work 6-6-12-12-12-12 chain stitches....
Updated online: 28.04.2020
L = work 6 chain stitches (not 12) .... Now divide sleeves and body as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 33-37-43-45-47-55 double crochets (= approx. half back piece), work 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches, skip the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (= A.4) for sleeve, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 66-74-80-84-94-104 double crochets (= front piece), work 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches,

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet between 2 double crochets
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = this round has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in/around stitches
symbols = slip stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Steffi 09.01.2021 - 18:29:

Hallo, ich habe nochmal eine Frage zu dem Abschnitt in Diagramm A4a nachdem man in Runde 7,10+12 die Luftm gearbeitet hat, soll man in Größe L weiter arbeiten, bis Arbeit eine Länge v ca 21 cm hat. Ich bin jetzt in Runde 7 v. A4a und meine Arbeit hat jetzt schon eine Länge von ca 27 cm. Sollte vor A4a überhaupt A4 gehäkelt werden oder fängt man dem Muster A3 gleich mit A4a an? Danke für die Hilfe

user icon DROPS Design 11.01.2021 kl. 08:28:

Liebe Steffi, Sie sollen mit A.4 häkeln bis die Arbeit 21 cm misst, dh einfach mit A.4 aufhören auch wenn diese 7. Reihe noch nicht gehäkelt wird (je nach der Grösse werden diese Reihen bei der Passe oder nicht gehäkelt). Hauptsache ist hier, daß Sie die Passe nach 21 cm teilen, A.4a häkeln Sie dann wieder nur bei den Ärmeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Steffi 06.01.2021 - 16:46:

Ich meinte die Zunahmen davor für die Ärmel. In der Anleitung steht in Reihe 8 von Muster A2/ A3 werden gleichmäßig verteilt an jedem Ärmel 6 Stäbchen zugenommen. Meine Frage war darauf gerichtet, dass sich der Ärmel nicht zwischen dem ersten und zweiten markierer sondern danach befindet. Das irritiert mich in der Anleitung oder verstehe ich was falsch? Entschuldigen Sie meine vielen Nachfragen dazu. Vielen Dank!

user icon DROPS Design 07.01.2021 kl. 09:31:

Liebe Steffi, es wird zwischen den 1. und 2. + zwischen den 3. und 4. Markieren regelmäßig zugenommen, d.h. in die Maschen von A.2, zwischen beiden A.3. A.3 gilt als Raglanlinien, wenn Sie dann die Arbeit verteilen, werden die Maschen von A.3 durch Rücken-/Vorderteil und Ärmel verteilt. Häkeln Sie wie erklärt, Zunahmmen in A.2 auf den beiden Ärmeln und nehmen Sie wie in A.3 zu, dann wird die Verteilung richtig sein. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Steffi 06.01.2021 - 12:30:

Antwort (siehe meine Frage v. 5.1.21): ja ich habe alles so gemacht wie angegeben. Ich bin jetzt in Reihe 8 von Muster A2/ A3. Ich häkel Größe L und bin irritiert wegen der Zunahme für die Ärmel. Am Anfang der Passe steht, dass der erste Ärmel nach dem Markierungsfaden kommt. Und jetzt bei den Zunahmen in Reihe 8 soll zwischen dem 1 und 2 sowie dem 3 und 4 Markierer zugenommen werden. Die Ärmel kommen aber jeweils danach. Was mache ich falsch? Danke für die Hilfe.

user icon DROPS Design 06.01.2021 kl. 13:23:

Liebe Steffi, bei den Ärmeln sollen Sie keine Masche zunehmen, nur beim Rücken- (= 2 Maschen 2 Mal für jeden halben Teil) und Vorderteil (= 4 Maschen 2 Mal) = es waren 264 Maschen + 8 maschen x 2 Reihen = 264+16= 280 M = 43 M für das 1. Rückenteil, 60 M für jede Ärmel, 80 M für das Vorderteil und 37 M für das 2. Rückenteil = 43+60+80+60+37= 280 M. Hoffentelich wird es Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Steffi 05.01.2021 - 21:43:

Ich bin etwas verwirrt wegen der Aufteilung: Beim setzen der Markierungen wird beschrieben, dass der 1. Ärmel nach dem Setzen der zweiten Markierung kommt. An der Stelle, wo für den Ärmel zugenommen werden soll, heißt es: und zwar zwischen der 1. und 2. Markierung. Der Ärmel kommt aber erst danach laut der anfänglichen Aufteilung! HILFE!!! 😁

user icon DROPS Design 06.01.2021 kl. 07:37:

Liebe Steffi, haben Sie die richtige Maschenanzahl nach allen Zunahmen? Welche Größe häkeln Sie?

country flag Daniella 03.01.2021 - 20:56:

När man virkar kragen i början av mönstret, ska A3 virkas där ärmarna ska vara eller precis framför o bakom? Tack på förhand!

user icon DROPS Design 14.01.2021 kl. 13:58:

Hej Daniella, det er flere masker som indgår i ærmerne, sæt mærkerne som beskrevet, så bliver det tydeligere for dig hvilke masker som hører til ærmerne. God fornøjelse!

country flag Beth 26.10.2020 - 13:12:

Now I'm really confused. There are no decreases in the instructions where i am. It says "Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 33-33-39-39-39-45 double crochets and increase 0-2-2-2-2-2 double crochets evenly (= approx. half back piece), work A.4 (= 6 double crochets) over the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 double crochets (= 9-10-10-10-11-12 times in width) (= sleeve), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 66-66-72-72-78-84 double crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly"

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 13:40:

Dear Beth, you have to increase evenly in the 5 larger size, ie working 1 dc in each of the next 33-33-39-39-39-45 dc/sts increasing 0-2-2-2-2-2 dc evenly means you will have 33-35-41-41-41-47 dc over the 33-33-39-39-39-45 dc from previous round. See how to increase evenly here. Happy crocheting!

country flag Beth 26.10.2020 - 03:55:

I'm making size XL. On the yoke, I've done a1 thru a3 once in height and have 264 stitches. It says to work the first 2 rows of a2 all around then it says to work DC i all the DC. The 2nd row of a2 is DC ch 2 sc ch 2 sc ch 2 DC. Unless I work row 3, i won't have DC all around. I think something is really wrong with the instructions there. Please help. Thanks in advance

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 09:35:

Dear Beth, after the first 2 rows in A.2a work 1 dc in each stitch from previous row (= 2nd row) in A.2a on body - ie when it says to work the first 39 dc increasing 2 dc evenly (beg of round), work 1 dc in each of the first 39 sts (dc or ch as on previous round) inc 2 dc evenly. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

country flag Romina 20.08.2020 - 05:20:

What do you mean by = 6 double ... over first 18....? 6 dc in each dc? Sorry having difficulty understanding... do you have pictures? Tnx Work A.2 (= 6 double crochets) over the first 18-18-24-24-24-30 double crochets (= 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in width) (= approx. half back piece), A.3 (= 4 double crochets), insert 1st marker thread, A.2 over the next 12 double crochets (= 2 times in width), insert 2nd marker thread, A.3 over the next 4 double

user icon DROPS Design 20.08.2020 kl. 10:10:

Dear Romina, A.2 is worked over 6 stitches - when you work A.2 over 18 dc, this means you will repeat A.2 a total of 3 times in width over the next 18 dc. When you work A.2 over 12 dc, you repeat A.2 a total of 2 times in width over the next 12 dc. Happy crocheting!

country flag Katerina Loki 16.07.2020 - 18:50:

Hello, I am little bit confused by the pattern. I am not sure which part is the sleeve if the A.3 or the A.2. According to the pattern I between the marking threads 1&2 is the pattern A.2. but there was written that the sleeve is A.3. Can you help me? Thank

user icon DROPS Design 17.07.2020 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Loki, on each sleeve you work: A.3, A.2 and A.3, but you will increase only between markers (between 1st and 2nd marker + between 3rd and 4th marker) this means you only increase in the stitches worked in A.2 since the increases in A.3 are already drawn in diagram. Happy crocheting!

country flag Inger 19.04.2020 - 10:42:

Hei! Jeg hekler størrelse L, i oppskriften(delen av armer og bolen) står det at jeg skal hekle staver i de neste 43 maskene, 12 lm, 80 st, 12 lm, 37 st. 43+12+80+12+37=184 Ifølge oppskriften skal bolen nå være på 172 masker. Er det en feil i oppskriften eller det jeg som har misforstått noe?

user icon DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 11:19:

Hej Inger, tak for info, vi har lavet en rettelse, så du nu hækler 6 lm i hver side (istedet for 12) God fornøjelse!

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