Belle Époque by DROPS Design
Fitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
Keywords:
3/4 sleeves, a-shape, assembly free, jacket, lace, raglan, round neck, top down, waist shaping
DROPS 186-7
DROPS design: Pattern w-699
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour 101, light blue
Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edge in garter stitch in the neck and at the bottom around both sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – for edge in garter stitch at the bottom of body.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
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DROPS design: Pattern w-699
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour 101, light blue
Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edge in garter stitch in the neck and at the bottom around both sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – for edge in garter stitch at the bottom of body.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 98 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 5.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2, A.4, A.5, A.7 and A.8). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarns over to make holes.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch on sleeves and according to diagram on front and back piece.
DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to purl sections on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in every purl section by making 1 yarn over before all 2 purl stitches. On next row (wrong side) knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
On next increase make 1 yarn over after every 3 purl stitches. Continue increase by alternately increasing at beginning and end of purl section.
INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-4 (applies to sections in stocking stitch over A.7/A.8 on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
When A.7/A.8 has been done, work in stocking stitch over the 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches with lace pattern. Increase over these 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches as follows: Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch in stocking stitch remains, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after edge in garter stitch in neck. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 7-7-7½-7-7½-7½ cm between each.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 98-102-106-110-114-118 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 17-13-9-15-11-7 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 115-115-115-125-125-125 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work yoke as explained below.
YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches), A.2 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 35-35-35-41-41-41 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.5 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), work A.6 (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front = 129-129-129-139-139-139 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.3/A.6).
Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on every row from right side increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, until increase has been done 14-18-20-21-24-26 times on each side of A.3 (including increases on first row from right side after neck edge). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE! When A.2/A.4/A.5 has been worked, continue pattern the same way, but work the next increased stitches on each side of A.3 in stocking stitch. In size S the increases for raglan is done when 3 rows remain in A.2/A.4/A.5, continue pattern without increase as explained below.
After last increase for raglan there are 237-269-285-303-327-343 stitches on needle if it is on a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6 or 243-275-291-309-333-349 stitches if it is on a row with 8/9/8 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6.
Continue pattern as before without increases for raglan until piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm from cast-on edge mid front, but finish so that last row is a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6.
Work next row as follows from right side: Continue with band, pattern and in stocking stitch as before over the first 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue in stocking stitch and pattern as before over the next 65-73-77-85-93-101 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and continue in stocking stitch, pattern and band over the remaining 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 153-169-181-197-217-237 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side and move the marker threads upwards when working.
Begin from wrong side and work 1 row with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit.
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 (= 7 or 8 stitches), work A.7 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram where pattern was finished at division), work in stocking stitch over the next 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches, A.8 over the next 55-55-55-65-65-65 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct diagram), purl 2, 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches in stocking stitch, A.8 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram), continue A.6 (= 7 or 8 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue the pattern like this – READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!
DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 1 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 5 times in total in each side = 131-147-159-175-195-215 stitches (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6).
INCREASE IN PURL SECTIONS:
When piece measures 6 cm from division, increase 1 stitch in every purl section marked with arrow in diagram (i.e. increase in all purl sections except the one purl section closest mid front in each side = 12 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 5 cm 6 times in total in every purl section (there are now 8 stitches in each of these purl sections).
INCREASE IN THE SIDES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm 3 times in total in each side.
INCREASE IN STOCKING STITCH SECTIONS:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 15 cm from division, finish A.7 and A.8 after one whole repetition vertically. Then work knit over knit and purl over purl over these stitches. On next row from right side increase 2 stitches in each stocking stitch section over A.7/A.8 - read INCREASE TIP-4 (= 18 stitches increased).
Repeat this increase after 2 cm (= 18 stitches increased).
When all increases are done there are 251-267-279-295-315-335 stitches on row (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from shoulder and down, but adjust so that next row is worked from right side.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast loosely off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from shoulder and down.
SLEEVE:
Slip the 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 55-63-69-70-76-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm 7-10-12-12-14-14 times in total = 41-43-45-46-48-50 stitches.
Continue until sleeve measures 26-25-24-21-20-19 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 40-40-40-48-48-48. Work A.9 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.9 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-25-24-23 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 98 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 5.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2, A.4, A.5, A.7 and A.8). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarns over to make holes.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch on sleeves and according to diagram on front and back piece.
DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to purl sections on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in every purl section by making 1 yarn over before all 2 purl stitches. On next row (wrong side) knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
On next increase make 1 yarn over after every 3 purl stitches. Continue increase by alternately increasing at beginning and end of purl section.
INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-4 (applies to sections in stocking stitch over A.7/A.8 on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
When A.7/A.8 has been done, work in stocking stitch over the 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches with lace pattern. Increase over these 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches as follows: Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch in stocking stitch remains, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after edge in garter stitch in neck. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 7-7-7½-7-7½-7½ cm between each.
----------------------------------------------------------
JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 98-102-106-110-114-118 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 17-13-9-15-11-7 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 115-115-115-125-125-125 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work yoke as explained below.
YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches), A.2 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 35-35-35-41-41-41 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.5 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), work A.6 (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front = 129-129-129-139-139-139 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.3/A.6).
Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on every row from right side increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, until increase has been done 14-18-20-21-24-26 times on each side of A.3 (including increases on first row from right side after neck edge). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE! When A.2/A.4/A.5 has been worked, continue pattern the same way, but work the next increased stitches on each side of A.3 in stocking stitch. In size S the increases for raglan is done when 3 rows remain in A.2/A.4/A.5, continue pattern without increase as explained below.
After last increase for raglan there are 237-269-285-303-327-343 stitches on needle if it is on a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6 or 243-275-291-309-333-349 stitches if it is on a row with 8/9/8 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6.
Continue pattern as before without increases for raglan until piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm from cast-on edge mid front, but finish so that last row is a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6.
Work next row as follows from right side: Continue with band, pattern and in stocking stitch as before over the first 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue in stocking stitch and pattern as before over the next 65-73-77-85-93-101 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and continue in stocking stitch, pattern and band over the remaining 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 153-169-181-197-217-237 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side and move the marker threads upwards when working.
Begin from wrong side and work 1 row with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit.
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 (= 7 or 8 stitches), work A.7 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram where pattern was finished at division), work in stocking stitch over the next 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches, A.8 over the next 55-55-55-65-65-65 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct diagram), purl 2, 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches in stocking stitch, A.8 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram), continue A.6 (= 7 or 8 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue the pattern like this – READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!
DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 1 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 5 times in total in each side = 131-147-159-175-195-215 stitches (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6).
INCREASE IN PURL SECTIONS:
When piece measures 6 cm from division, increase 1 stitch in every purl section marked with arrow in diagram (i.e. increase in all purl sections except the one purl section closest mid front in each side = 12 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 5 cm 6 times in total in every purl section (there are now 8 stitches in each of these purl sections).
INCREASE IN THE SIDES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm 3 times in total in each side.
INCREASE IN STOCKING STITCH SECTIONS:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 15 cm from division, finish A.7 and A.8 after one whole repetition vertically. Then work knit over knit and purl over purl over these stitches. On next row from right side increase 2 stitches in each stocking stitch section over A.7/A.8 - read INCREASE TIP-4 (= 18 stitches increased).
Repeat this increase after 2 cm (= 18 stitches increased).
When all increases are done there are 251-267-279-295-315-335 stitches on row (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from shoulder and down, but adjust so that next row is worked from right side.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast loosely off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from shoulder and down.
SLEEVE:
Slip the 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 55-63-69-70-76-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm 7-10-12-12-14-14 times in total = 41-43-45-46-48-50 stitches.
Continue until sleeve measures 26-25-24-21-20-19 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 40-40-40-48-48-48. Work A.9 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.9 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-25-24-23 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.
Diagram
|
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side |
|
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
|
= knit 2 together |
|
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked |
|
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together |
|
= knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the last 2 stitches |
|
= no stitch, skip this square |
|
= increase in this purl section |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Når jeg har strikket hele diagrammet A2 , A5 og A4 slik det står i mønsteret og skal begynne på nytt til lengden er ok, hvor starter jeg på nytt ? Diagram A1, A3 og A 6 er helt ok og forstå. Veldig fin oppskrift
26.06.2022 - 17:54DROPS Design answered:
Hei Ellen. Jo, du fortsetter med A.2, A.4 og A.5 slik at mønstret gjentar seg. I f.eks str. S+M+L gjentar du de 6 siste radene, (men de neste økte maskene på hver side av A.3 strikkes i glattstrikk). mvh DROPS Design
27.06.2022 kl. 10:56Stl S. Minskn i sida (153 msk + omslag): det är 13 (6 msk med markör) rätmsk. Här ska minskas 10 msk. men 5+6+5=16, inte 13? Då kommer minskn. att omfatta de två avigmsk. på var sida. Vid ökning i de aviga msk, numera 0 och 1, stämmer då inte ökn. (2 +6 ökn=8, utan blir 6/7) avigmsk i varje avigt parti. Minskar jag på de 6 räta msk, stämmer inte ökningarna på dessa sedan. Hur ska jag göra?
26.07.2021 - 13:19DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ella, du har 13 maskor slätstickning i varje sida (markören i mitten). Du minskar i de slätstickade maskor på varje sida av markören, så dina minskningar påverkar inte mönsterrapporterna. God fornøjelse!
25.08.2021 kl. 10:09I’m going to make this sweater for the measurements of Bust 36” , waist 32”, hips 40”. What size should I make. Thank you Midge
19.04.2021 - 02:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Midge, you can find the measurements of the finished piece of each size, at the bottom of the pattern, on the schematic drawing. Happy Knitting!
19.04.2021 kl. 03:40I am going to make this sweater for my daughter. Her measurements are bust 36”, waistline 32”, hips 40”. . Do I make a medium or a large. Sweater.
19.04.2021 - 02:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Midge, Measure a similar garment she has and likes the shape and compare these measurements to those in the chart at the bottom of the page; this will be the best way to find the matching size. Red more about sizing here. Happy knitting!
19.04.2021 kl. 08:51Bonjour, après maintes péripéties enfin terminé avec succès, savez vous comment mettre la photo Merci
31.03.2021 - 18:47DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Rousseau, vous pouvez volontiers la publier dans notre DROPS Workshop ou bien/et partager votre lien pour la galerie ici. Bonne continuation!
07.04.2021 kl. 08:53On the yoke after completing the 8 rows do we start those charts over again from the bottom up or top down with charts A1, A3 and A6?
19.03.2021 - 01:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Vostal, correct, repeat A.1, A.3 and A.6 from first row again. Happy knitting!
19.03.2021 kl. 07:44For medium size .On theYOKE , WS 2nd row, do we start knitting following the chart with A6 OR A1 like on the RS. Thank you
27.02.2021 - 02:33DROPS Design answered:
Hi Mary, on the wrong side (2nd row) you should start with A.6. Please see the lesson drops How to read knitting diagrams HERE. Happy knitting!
28.02.2021 kl. 21:58I understand where Row 1 RS gets to 129. It is Row 2 WS that is the problem because the chart stitch total as I showed in my last question only comes to 125. so where do the other 4 stitches come from to get to 129
26.02.2021 - 13:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Vostal, on row 2 you should still have 129 sts since the yarn overs in the small diagrams (A.1, A.6 and A.3) will be decreeased only on row 3. It's a bit difficult to know why your are missing stitches, try to add markers and check out the number of sts - or bring/show your work to your store (even a photo can help) so that they can see what you did and can help further, this might help too. Happy knitting!
26.02.2021 kl. 16:07For Medium size. I understand that but after completing RS row one there are 129 stitches. Row 2 WS chart count is only 125 stitches. Band stitches = 10; A1=8; A2=11, 4(A3's=36); 2 stocking stitches x 2 =4; A4 = 37; A5=11; and A6=8. TOTAL STITCHES = 125 so where do the other 4 stitches come from to match Row 1 at 129???
26.02.2021 - 13:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary, you are increasing for raglan with yarn overs as explained on the first row = 8 yarn overs (1 on each side of each A.3) + the yarn overs in diagrams (= 1 yarn over in A.1+ 1 yarn over in A.6 + 1 yarn over in each of the 4 A.3) = 115 + 8 + 6= 129 sts. Happy knitting!
26.02.2021 kl. 13:23I am going crazy as I have done this 3 x. I knit the first row of the yoke RS and come up with 129 stitches but the second row WS keeps coming up 124 and when I actually count the squares on the WS there are only 125. Shouldn't the 1st and 2nd row be the same amount of stitches and then the 3rd row should be increased by 8 for 137 and the WS should be the same. why cant I get it to work but
26.02.2021 - 02:11DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Vostal, the number of stitches in A.1 and A.6 will varry between 7 and 8 stitches and the one in A.3 will vary between 8 and 9 stitches - since you are working yarn overs (row 1 and 5) that you will decrease on row 3 and 7. So when starting the first row on yoke, you are increasing for raglan + 1 yarn over in each of these diagrams = there are 129 sts at the end of this row, but on row 3 in diagrams you will decrease the yarn overs made in these diagrams. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!
26.02.2021 kl. 08:33