DROPS / 186 / 4

Point the Way by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with garter stitch and stripes. The piece is worked in DROPS Fabel.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-402
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 50 x 180 cm / 19 3/4"-70 3/4''
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 522, turquoise/blue
50 g color 161, pink dream
50 g color 904, lavender
50 g color 910, sea mist

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 40 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height .

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows (NOTE! Change strands at the end of a row from the right side).
* Work 12 cm / 4¾'' with turquoise/blue
Work 3 cm / 1'' with 1 ridge turquoise/blue, 1 ridge pink dream
Work 12 cm / 4¾'' with pink dream.
Work 3 cm / 1'' with 1 ridge pink dream, 1 ridge lavender
Work 12 cm / 4¾'' with lavender.
Work 3 cm / 1'' with 1 ridge lavender, 1 ridge sea mist
Work 12 cm / 4¾'' with sea mist *, repeat from *-*.
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SHAWL:
The shawl is worked from the one short side and across.

Cast on 164 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and turquoise/blue. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Insert 1 marker thread in the 2nd stitch on the row – seen from the right side. Continue with garter stitch and STRIPES - see description above, and work as follows:
ROW 1 (from the right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (stitch with marker thread), 1 yarn over, work until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches together.
ROW 2 (from the wrong side): Knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row, yarn overs are knitted to leave holes.
ROW 3 (from the right side): Work as far as the stitch with the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (stitch with marker thread), 1 yarn over, work until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches together.
ROW 4 (from the wrong side): Knit 2 stitches together, knit to end of row, yarn overs are knitted to leave holes.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 upwards, continue with 1 yarn over on each side of the stitch with the marker thread and decreases at end of rows from the right side and beginning of rows from the wrong side. The number of stitches stays the same upwards. Continue until you have increased 80 times on each side of the marker thread = 164 stitches on needle (worked 160 rows).

ROW 1 (= from the right side): bind off the first 10 stitches on the needle, work to the stitch with the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with the marker thread), 1 yarn over, work until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches together.
ROW 2 (from the wrong side): Knit 2 stitches together, work to end of row, yarn overs are knitted to leave holes = 154 stitches on needle.
ROW 3 (= from the right side): Work to the stitch with the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with the marker thread), 1 yarn over, work until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches together.
ROW 4 (from the wrong side): Knit 2 stitches together, work to end of row, yarn overs are knitted to leave holes = 154 stitches on needle.

ROWS 5-10: Work as for rows 3 and 4 = 154 stitches on needle

Repeat rows 1 to 10 upwards, you decrease 10 stitches every 10 rows.
Continue until there are 4 stitches left on needle, bind off these stitches. Cut and fasten the strands.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (50)

Neyens 13.10.2019 - 15:29:

Bonjour, j’aurais souhaité réaliser ce modèle avec plus de mailles (200 mailles). Je devrais donc tricoter 100 fois les rangs 3 et 4 et diminuer 20 fois 10 mailles. Cela est-il correct? Bien à vous. Merci pour votre réponse. Jacqueline

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 10:28:

Bonjour Mme Neyens, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, merci de bien vouloir contacter - même par mail ou téléphone - votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

K8 07.08.2019 - 13:57:

Referring to my previous question, If I am increasing a stitch on each side of the marked stitch, then every 10 rows I cast off 10. how does it ever get down to 4 stitches? Logic says that it will not change from the 154 stitches. I have 154 now, 10 rows will bring it to 164, cast off 10, I'm back to 154.

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 09:09:

Dear K8, when working the rows 1 to 10 you will: first cast off 10 sts, then inc 2 sts on every RS row and dec 1 st on every RS row + dec 1 st on every WS row = the 2 sts inc with the YO are compensated by the 2 dec. After you have worked the row 10 the second time, you cast off 10 sts = the number of stitches is then decreasing. Happy knitting!

K8 05.08.2019 - 20:42:

I have reached the first 10-stitch cast off, and can't see how the left side of the shawl gets smaller when my cast-offs reach the centre. Do I continue casting off the 10 sts every 10rows so that the yo's just disappear? Thanks

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 11:29:

Dear K8, after the 10 first stitches have been cast off (= as explained under row 1), continue working to the 1Oth row included, then repeat these 10 rows until 4 stitches remain = you will cast off 10 sts at the beg of every 11th row, continue to increase on each side of st with marker + on every row from RS + dec at the end of every row from RS and dec at the beg of every row from WS. Happy knitting!

Mariechristine 02.07.2019 - 07:39:

Sono arrivata alla fase di diminuire 10 maglie al’inizio del 1 ferro ogni dieci Ferri. Che cosa succede quando devo diminuire con i gettati? Qualcosa mi sfugge

DROPS Design 02.07.2019 kl. 09:12:

Buongiorno Mariechristine. Se abbiamo capito correttamente la sua domanda, non deve fare le maglie gettate, ma intrecciare le maglie presenti sul ferro. Buon lavoro!

Paula Castanho 16.04.2019 - 15:04:

Olá, obrigada por partilhar este xaile maravilhoso. Já fiz um que ficou lindo e estou a fazer outro. Tenho 2 amigas que também estão a fazer. Adorei. Bjs de Portugal (Sintra)

Sara Pastore 06.03.2019 - 15:24:

Buongiorno, per caso ha chiesto la verifica alla casa madre? Grazie sara

DROPS Design 06.03.2019 kl. 16:32:

Buongiorno Sara. Al momento non abbiamo ricevuto indicazioni di correzioni sulla quantità di filato occorrente. Dovessero arrivare, il testo verrà corretto online. Buon lavoro!

Sara Pastore 11.02.2019 - 22:59:

Buonasera. Ho comprato il kit per point the way. Il campione mi viene identico a quello da voi fornito, ho montato 134 maglie invece di 164 ma dopo 15 cm circa il primo gomitolo è terminato. Mi chiedo, come faccio a ripetere lo schema? Grazie Sara

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 06:46:

Buongiorno Sara, non abbiamo ricevuto altre segnalazioni riguardo la quantità di filato, in ogni caso chiederemo una verifica alla casa madre. Buon lavoro!

Anita Winblad 02.01.2019 - 22:25:

Så rolig att sticka! Jag har gjort tre stycken på raken nu!

Gudrun 03.12.2018 - 22:38:

Hej lite frågande igen. Det står tydligt i beskrivningen att man inte ska börja maska av 10 maskor i sidan förrän det ökats 80 maskor på vardera sidan av markören. Men på bilden börjar dessa minskningar redan i tredje färgen, lavendel. Jag är nu förbi den färgen och mitt i sea mist, men har ändå 16 varv kvar innan det ökats 80 maskor på var sida markören. Det förvirrar. Har jag förstått fel?

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 13:55:

Hej Gudrun, nej men det låter som att du evt har en annan stickfasthet i höjden. Vi har 40 varv rätstickning på 10 cm i höjden. Det gör ingenting, men följ antal cm mönstret. Lycka till :)

Britta Storm 14.11.2018 - 10:16:

Jeg har selv fundet fejlen. Jeg har strikket 10 riller i stedet for 10 pinde mellem indtagningerne.

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