DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Seiland Jumper

Set consists of: Sweater for kids with round yoke and multi-colored Nordic pattern, worked top down. Hat with multi-colored Nordic pattern and pompom. Size 2 - 12 years Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS Children 30-5
DROPS design: Pattern me-038-bn
Yarn group B
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SWEATER:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-350-350-400 g color no 31, forest green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 08, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 28, north sea
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 30, mustard

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 cm / 16" + 24") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib
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HAT:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/8 - 9/12 years
Fits head circumference: approx. 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/56 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-21"-21½"
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g in all sizes of the following colors:
color 31, forest green
color 08, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Sweater: See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.7.
Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how to decrease or increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 14.
I.e. in this example knit approx. every 13th and 14th stitch together when decreasing.
When increasing make 1 yarn over after every 14th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side with north sea and knit as before until 7-7-8-8-9-9 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 14-14-16-16-18-18. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 21-21-24-24-27-27, turn, tighten yarn and purl 28-28-32-32-36-36. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 35-35-40-40-45-45, turn, tighten yarn and purl 42-42-48-48-54-54. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

KNITTING TIP-2 (applies to yoke on sweater):
If knitting gauge is incorrect in height and there are more rows vertically on 10 cm / 4'' than stated in pattern the round yoke will be too short and the armholes too small. To avoid this work 1 extra round in stockinette stitch evenly in the unicolored sections on yoke.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 2 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to hat):
Decrease as follows after marker: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
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SWEATER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Rounds begin mid back.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 84-88-88-96-96-100 stitches on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with north sea. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm / 1''. Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-4-4-6-6-4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 78-84-84-90-90-96 stitches. Then work yoke
as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above. When elevation has been worked, finish by knitting 0-0-2-3-0-2 rounds with north sea. Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND KNITTING TIP-2!
Then work A.1 in the round (= 13-14-14-15-15-16 repetitions of 6 stitches). Continue pattern and increase as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! On round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 there are 117-126-126-135-135-144 stitches on needle. Work round as shown in diagram and increase AT THE SAME TIME 18 stitches evenly in all sizes - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 135-144-144-153-153-162 stitches. Work A.1 (there is now room for 15-16-16-17-17-18 repetitions of 9 stitches). On round marked with arrow-2 in A.1 increase 21-24-24-27-27-30 stitches evenly = 156-168-168-180-180-192 stitches. When A.1 has been worked, work A.2 in the round (= 13-14-14-15-15-16 repetitions of 12 stitches). Continue A.2 and increase as shown in diagram. On round marked with arrow-3 in A.2 there are 208-224-224-240-240-256 stitches. Work round as shown in diagram and increase at the same time 4-0-12-0-12-8 stitches evenly on this round = 212-224-236-240-252-264 stitches.
When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round (= 53-56-59-60-63-66 repetitions of 4 stitches). After A.3 piece measures approx. 17-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4'' from cast-on edge mid front. Work next round as follows with light beige: work 31-33-35-36-38-40 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 61-65-69-71-75-79 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), slip the next 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece).
Cut the strand. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 134-142-150-158-166-174 stitches. Begin in one side of piece, in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve. Work A.4 in the round and increase at the same time 2 stitches evenly on first round = 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches on needle and 17-18-19-20-21-22 repetitions of 8 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked, work A.5 in the round (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 repetitions of 8 stitches). Repeat A.5 until piece measures approx. 13-17-20-23-26-29 cm / 5"-6 3/4"-8"-9"-10 1/4"-11½'' from division – adjust so that 2-4 rounds have been worked after a round with dots. Work A.6 in the round (= 34-36-38-40-42-44 repetitions of 4 stitches). When A.6 has been worked, piece measures approx. 17-21-24-27-30-33 cm / 6 3/4"-8 1/4"-9½"-10½"-11 3/4"-13'' from division. Knit 1 round while increasing 24-28-28-32-32-32 stitches evenly = 160-172-180-192-200-208 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight bind-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME bind off (bind off yarn overs as stitches). Sweater measures approx. 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm / 15"-16½"-18"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches on needle. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under sleeve and 1 marker thread in the middle stitch on round (= mid on top of sleeve. Read the rest of sleeve before continuing!
Begin at marker thread mid under sleeve and work A.4 in the round but note that the pattern will not fit an entire repetition mid under sleeve. Begin with 3rd-2nd-1st-8th-7th-6th stitch in A.4 and repeat A.4 in the round as long as you can. Pattern will be symmetrical mid under sleeve and stitch with marker thread mid on top of sleeve should now fit 4th stitch in A.4.
When A.4 has been worked, work A.5 in the round but adjust so that A.5 fits nicely over A.4 (stitch with marker thread should fit placement of a dot). Repeat A.5 onwards.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3-3-5-5-7-6 cm / 1"-1"-2"-2"-2 3/4"-2 1/4'' 5-6-5-6-5-6 times in total = 41-41-45-45-49-49 stitches.
When piece measures approx. 12-16-20-24-28-31 cm / 4 3/4"-6 1/4"-8"-9½"-11"-12 1/4'' from division – adjust so that 2-4 round with forest green have been worked after a round with dots, work A.6 in the round – begin round so that pattern fits nicely over dots in A.5. When A.6 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Knit 1 round with forest green while decreasing 1 stitch evenly in all sizes = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight bind-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 20-24-28-32-36-39 cm / 8"-9½"-11"-12½"-14 1/4"-15 1/4'' from division under sleeve. Work the other sleeve the same way.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 104-112-112-120 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with forest green. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm / 1''. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Knit 1 round while decreasing 8 stitches evenly in all sizes - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 96-104-104-112 stitches. Work A.7 in the round (= 12-13-13-14 repetitions of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.7 has been worked, work in stockinette stitch with light beige until finished measurements. When piece measures 15-16-17-17 cm / 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4'', insert 8 markers in the piece, 12-13-13-14 stitches between each marker. On next round decrease after every marker - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other round a total of 6-7-7-8 times = 48 stitches remain on needles in all sizes.
* Knit 1 round, on next round knit together all stitches 2 by 2* = 24 stitches. Repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 stitches remain on needles. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 20-21-22-23 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9'' from top and down.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with forest green with an approx. of diameter 4-5 cm / 1½"-2'' and fasten it at the tip of the hat.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.06.2018
The two largest sizes were missing for the A.4 instructions on the sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = northsea
symbols = light beige
symbols = mustard
symbols = forest green
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with base colour in pattern stripe, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Eelke Keessen-Storm wrote:

Ik brei maat 9/10 jaar. In A2 heb ik bij pijl 3 de gevraagde 240 steken. Dan moet ik verder breien in het telpatroon en 12 steken meerderen. Nu klopt het telpatroon niet meer! Ik wil de punt precies boven de ster houden en dan heb ik 12 x een tussenruimte van 8 st ipv de gevraagde 7 st.

07.12.2023 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Eelke,

Door het meerderen krijg je inderdaad de punt niet precies boven de ster. Het is niet zo dat het patroon dan niet klopt, maar dit hoort gewoon zo. Je zou dan een ander telpatroon moeten maken als je de punt boven de ster wilt hebben.

10.12.2023 - 16:32

country flag Marie wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zum Ärmel - wenn ich erst 2cm stricke und dann alle 7 cm noch 5mal abnehme, komme ich auf 37cm ab der Teilung... Wenn ich insgesamt nur 5mal annehme komme ich auf 30 cm , aber nie auf 28cm ab der Teilung?! Stimmt da etwas in der Anleitung nicht oder was verstehe ich hier falsch?

29.10.2023 - 16:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie, Sie sind ja richtig, die letzte Abnahmen stricken Sie nach 30 cm, aber wenn die Ärmel 28 cm misst stricken Sie A.6 dh die letzte Abnahme strickt man in A.6, nach A.6 stricken Sie dann 4 cm Bündchen, so misst die Ärmel 36 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.10.2023 - 16:40

country flag Gudrun Winkler wrote:

Was bedeutet "Läusemuster"? Oder "nach einer Laus"?

10.02.2023 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Winkler, dies betrifft das Muster mit 1 Masche hellbeige und die anderen Maschen waldgrünn wie im A.5 oder bei den oberen Reihen in A.7 (1 Masche waldgrünn und die anderen 7 Maschen hellbeige). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.02.2023 - 08:48

country flag Allegra wrote:

Hi, the chart for the yoke pattern is no longer visible in this pattern. I’m halfway through the chart but can’t seem to find it here anymore! Help?! Thank you for such a beautiful pattern! Allegra

25.10.2022 - 01:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Allegra, All the charts are at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

25.10.2022 - 06:58

country flag Sabrina Schmidt wrote:

Hallo. Ich stricke gerade den ersten Ârmel, Grösse 3/4. Ich beginne bei A.4 in jeder Runde mit der 2. Masche. Das habe ich verstanden aber dann kommen ja die Abnahmen. Verschiebt sich durch die Abnahmen das Muster? Stricke ich nach den Abnahmen einfach ganz normal weiter, also weiterhin immer bei der 2. Masche starten? Vielen Dank

12.03.2022 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schmidt, am Anfang und am Ende der Runde stricken Sie nicht ein komplett A.4, wenn Sie dann abnehmen werden das erste A.4 und das letzte A.4 auch abnehmen, dh das Muster stricken Sie wie zuvor in der Höhe, damit die Maschen nicht verschoben werden, aber es wird am Anfang/Ende der Runde immer weniger Maschen im Muster. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.03.2022 - 10:54

country flag Marit D Lyngstad wrote:

Skal man virkelig øke 32masker (str 9/10) når man begynner med vrangborden nede på genseren+

12.03.2022 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marit, Dette er anbefalt for at vrangborden ikke blir stram. God fornøyelse!

14.03.2022 - 07:47

country flag Inga Jespersen wrote:

Jeg stikker størrelse 2 år. Efter A 1 skal jeg begynde at tage ud, men hvor mange masker skal jeg tage ud hver gang?

06.12.2021 - 09:10

country flag Pia Sällemark wrote:

Mönster A1 och A2 har försvunnit från mönstret. Jag är mitt i A2. Hur ska jag kunna sticka klart?

23.08.2021 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Jag ser de diagrammen här på min pc så de finns kvar. Kanske du kan prova en annan webläsare eller uppdatera sidan för att se de? Mvh DROPS Design

24.08.2021 - 09:38

country flag Icca wrote:

Står jag ska ha 40+60 c kabel eller 80.. Men fattar noll ska jag ha 100cm kabel eller 80 tanke på 40+60=100 eller en både 40 & 60cm eller 80

10.08.2021 - 17:25

country flag Anneke Ter Horst wrote:

Ik zou graag de wol willen bestellen maar wil graag de echte kleuren zien. Is het mogelijk kleur staaltjes toe te sturen? Alvast dank voor uw antwoord. Anneke

30.05.2021 - 17:19