Seiland Jumper by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Jumper for kids with round yoke and multi-coloured Norwegian pattern, worked top down. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and pompom. Size 2 - 12 years Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS design: Pattern me-038-bn
Yarn group B
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JUMPER:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-350-350-400 g colour no 31, forest green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 08, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 28, north sea
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 30, mustard

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib
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HAT:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/8 - 9/12 years
Fits head circumference: approx. 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/56 cm
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g in all sizes of the following colours:
colour 31, forest green
colour 08, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for rib.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.7.
Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how to decrease or increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 14.
I.e. in this example knit approx. every 13th and 14th stitch together when decreasing.
When increasing make 1 yarn over after every 14th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side with north sea and knit as before until 7-7-8-8-9-9 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 14-14-16-16-18-18. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 21-21-24-24-27-27, turn, tighten yarn and purl 28-28-32-32-36-36. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 35-35-40-40-45-45, turn, tighten yarn and purl 42-42-48-48-54-54. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

KNITTING TIP-2 (applies to yoke on jumper):
If knitting tension is incorrect in height and there are more rows vertically on 10 cm than stated in pattern the round yoke will be too short and the armholes too small. To avoid this work 1 extra round in stocking stitch evenly in the unicoloured sections on yoke.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 2 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to hat):
Decrease as follows after marker: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Rounds begin mid back.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 84-88-88-96-96-100 stitches on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm with north sea. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-4-4-6-6-4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 78-84-84-90-90-96 stitches. Then work yoke
as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above. When elevation has been worked, finish by knitting 0-0-2-3-0-2 rounds with north sea. Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND KNITTING TIP-2!
Then work A.1 in the round (= 13-14-14-15-15-16 repetitions of 6 stitches). Continue pattern and increase as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 there are 117-126-126-135-135-144 stitches on needle. Work round as shown in diagram and increase AT THE SAME TIME 18 stitches evenly in all sizes - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 135-144-144-153-153-162 stitches. Work A.1 (there is now room for 15-16-16-17-17-18 repetitions of 9 stitches). On round marked with arrow-2 in A.1 increase 21-24-24-27-27-30 stitches evenly = 156-168-168-180-180-192 stitches. When A.1 has been worked, work A.2 in the round (= 13-14-14-15-15-16 repetitions of 12 stitches). Continue A.2 and increase as shown in diagram. On round marked with arrow-3 in A.2 there are 208-224-224-240-240-256 stitches. Work round as shown in diagram and increase at the same time 4-0-12-0-12-8 stitches evenly on this round = 212-224-236-240-252-264 stitches.
When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round (= 53-56-59-60-63-66 repetitions of 4 stitches). After A.3 piece measures approx. 17-17-18-19-20-21 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Work next round as follows with light beige: work 31-33-35-36-38-40 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 61-65-69-71-75-79 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece).
Cut the strand. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 134-142-150-158-166-174 stitches. Begin in one side of piece, in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve. Work A.4 in the round and increase at the same time 2 stitches evenly on first round = 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches on needle and 17-18-19-20-21-22 repetitions of 8 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked, work A.5 in the round (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 repetitions of 8 stitches). Repeat A.5 until piece measures approx. 13-17-20-23-26-29 cm from division – adjust so that 2-4 rounds have been worked after a round with dots. Work A.6 in the round (= 34-36-38-40-42-44 repetitions of 4 stitches). When A.6 has been worked, piece measures approx. 17-21-24-27-30-33 cm from division. Knit 1 round while increasing 24-28-28-32-32-32 stitches evenly = 160-172-180-192-200-208 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME cast off (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Jumper measures approx. 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches on needle. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under sleeve and 1 marker thread in the middle stitch on round (= mid on top of sleeve. Read the rest of sleeve before continuing!
Begin at marker thread mid under sleeve and work A.4 in the round but note that the pattern will not fit an entire repetition mid under sleeve. Begin with 3rd-2nd-1st-8th-7th-6th stitch in A.4 and repeat A.4 in the round as long as you can. Pattern will be symmetrical mid under sleeve and stitch with marker thread mid on top of sleeve should now fit 4th stitch in A.4.
When A.4 has been worked, work A.5 in the round but adjust so that A.5 fits nicely over A.4 (stitch with marker thread should fit placement of a dot). Repeat A.5 onwards.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3-3-5-5-7-6 cm 5-6-5-6-5-6 times in total = 41-41-45-45-49-49 stitches.
When piece measures approx. 12-16-20-24-28-31 cm from division – adjust so that 2-4 round with forest green have been worked after a round with dots, work A.6 in the round – begin round so that pattern fits nicely over dots in A.5. When A.6 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round with forest green while decreasing 1 stitch evenly in all sizes = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 20-24-28-32-36-39 cm from division under sleeve. Work the other sleeve the same way.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 104-112-112-120 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with forest green. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 8 stitches evenly in all sizes - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 96-104-104-112 stitches. Work A.7 in the round (= 12-13-13-14 repetitions of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.7 has been worked, work in stocking stitch with light beige until finished measurements. When piece measures 15-16-17-17 cm, insert 8 markers in the piece, 12-13-13-14 stitches between each marker. On next round decrease after every marker - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other round a total of 6-7-7-8 times = 48 stitches remain on needles in all sizes.
* Knit 1 round, on next round knit together all stitches 2 by 2* = 24 stitches. Repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 stitches remain on needles. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 20-21-22-23 cm from top and down.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with forest green with an approx. of diameter 4-5 cm and fasten it at the tip of the hat.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 05.06.2018
The two largest sizes were missing for the A.4 instructions on the sleeve.

Diagram

= northsea
= light beige
= mustard
= forest green
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with base colour in pattern stripe, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
= increase round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Mette Kloth 23.04.2020 - 09:06:

Hej. På ærmerne til denne opskrift skriver I, at man efter mønster A6 tager 1 m. ind. Det er smartere at tage den m. ind FØR A6, så passer mønsteret nemlig på en omgang!

Maria Grazia 08.03.2020 - 18:44:

Salve! Ho difficoltà a iniziare il berretto con i ferri circolari come è suggerito nelle spiegazioni. Ho provato con diverse misure di cavetti, e, comunque, non sono riuscita a trovare una condizione di lavoro soddisfacente. Potreste darmi qualche consiglio? Vi ringrazio di vero cuore e cordialmente saluto.

DROPS Design 08.03.2020 kl. 21:12:

Buongiorno Maria Grazia. Può provare con i ferri a doppia punta, oppure può lavorare non in tondo, ma avanti e indietro sui ferri normali. In questo caso è sufficiente aggiungere al numero di maglie indicato, una maglia vivagno da ciascun lato per la cucitura finale. Buon lavoro!

Claudette Grenier 10.02.2020 - 06:55:

Vous dites: ajuster après 2-4 tours après un tour de plumetis. Que voulez-vous dire. Je ne comprends pas. Merci beaucoup et bonne journée à toute votre belle équipe.

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 10:13:

Bonjour Mme Grenier, tricotez jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée, mais il faut que vous ayez tricoté 2, 3 ou 4 tours après un tour jacquard de A.5, vous aurez peut être quelques cm en moins ou quelques cm en plus à tricoter, en fonction de votre tension en hauteur. Bon tricot!

Ea Bak 11.11.2019 - 16:05:

Ærme: SAMTIDIG når arbejdet måler 2 cm tages der 2 masker ind midt under ærmet – læs INDTAGNINGSTIPS-1. Tag ind således på hver 3.-3.-5.-5.-7.-6.cm totalt 5-6-5-6-5-6 gange = 41-41-45-45-49-49 masker. Rettelse: tag ind således på hver 3.-3.-5.-7.-6. OMG. I stedet for cm

Ana Cecilia Ramirez 24.08.2019 - 10:47:

Noen har anbefalt å dampe genseren etter den er ferdig. Er det noe dere anbefaler også?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 11:55:

Hei Ana. Det er smak og behag hva man selv ønsker. Noen ønsker å dampe et plagg for å jevne ut maskene, spesielt dersom man strikket litt ujevn, eller for å få den siste finish. Har du strikket med DROPS Merino Extra Fine tåler dette garnet å dampes/strykes med svak varme. Så det er helt opp til deg selv hva du ønsker. God Fornøyelse!

Ana Cecilia Ramirez 22.08.2019 - 06:55:

For å få til strikkefasthet brukte jeg pinnene. 4.0 og 4.5 for å strikke genseren. Hvilke størrelse bør jeg bruke til luen?

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 12:22:

Hei Ana Cecilie, Det er en god ide å strikke en prøvelapp for å få riktige strikkefasthet - 3,5 eller 4 blir nok det mest sannsynlige størrelsen. God fornøyelse!

Ana Cecilia Ramirez 19.08.2019 - 21:50:

Det står at man skal strikke lue med pinne størrelse mindre enn genseren. Kan det stemme?

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 12:31:

Hei Ana. Ja, det stemmer. Det er en lue der man vil ha litt tettere masker = varmere og for å få en bedre formstabilitet på et lite plagg.

Louise Johansen 28.04.2019 - 13:09:

Heej :) Jeg forstår ikke helt hvad de pile ud for mønstret med numre 1-2-3 betyder? Er ret ny i strikkeverden, men i opskriften står der bare som beskrivelse at det er udtagnings omgange . Hvor mange udtagninger snakkes der om? Og i så fald, hvorfor er det ikke vist med de sorte ovaler som i resten af mønstret? :)

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 07:37:

Hei Louise. Det skal økes jevnt fordelt på omgangen ved disse pilene, les forklaring til hvordan dette gjøres under FELLE/ØKETIPS øverst i oppskriften. Det står forklart i teksten på BÆRESTYKKET hvor mange masker som økes ved hver pil: Ved pil 1 økes 18 masker i hver str, ved pil 2 økes 21-24-24-27-27-30 masker, og ved pil 3 økes 4-0-12-0-12-8 masker. Disse er ikke tegnet inn i diagrammet fordi det økes jevnt fordelt (altså med like mange maskers mellomrom), og det økes ofte ulikt i hver størrelse. God fornøyelse

Alexandra Gallo 08.04.2019 - 10:26:

Kann ich denn Pullover auch in Double face stricken wenn ja wie mache ich das dann mit den zunahmen

Christine Brück 30.03.2019 - 06:37:

Die angegebenen Maschenzahlen ensprechen nicht den Größen.Ist da etwas in der Anleitung durcheinander geraten?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 11:56:

Liebe Frau Brück, wie meinen Sie das? Welche Größe und welche Stelle meinen Sie?

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