DROPS / 184 / 12

Midnight Cables by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with cables, lace pattern and split. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-082
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 17, denim blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or the size needed to get 15 stitches and 19 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
Diagrams A.1 to A.7 measure 52 cm / 20½'' in width on the back piece. Diagrams A.8 to A.10 measure 19 cm / 7½'' in width on the sleeves.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 for rib - or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE INFORMATION (for sleeve):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
Sizes S, M, L: The increased stitches are worked garter stitch as you go, until there are a total of 6 stitches garter stitch before A.8 and a total of 6 stitches garter stitch after A.10, then work these stitches stockinette stitch.
Sizes XL,XXL and XXXL: The increased stitches are worked stockinette stitch as you go.
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JUMPER:
The front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle up to the split. Then the body is worked in the round as far as the armholes, when the front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-92-104-112-116-124 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 stitches GARTER STITCH - see description above, knit 2-0-2-2-0-0, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* a total of 0-1-2-3-4-5 times, A.1A (= 14 stitches), A.2A (= 8 stitches), A.3A (= 12 stitches), A.4A (= 10 stitches), A.5A (= 12 stitches), A.6A (= 8 stitches), A.7A (= 14 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* a total of 0-1-2-3-4-5 times, knit 2-0-2-2-0-0, 3 stitches garter stitch. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Now work as follows in the different sizes:

SIZES S-M-L-XL:
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 stitches garter stitch, 2-4-10-14 stitches rib as before and decrease 0-0-2-3 stitches over these, work A.1B over A.1A, A.2B over A.2A, A.3B over A.3A, A.4B over A.4A, A.5B over A.5A, A.6B over A.6A, A.7B over A.7A, work 2-4-10-14 stitches rib as before and decrease 0-0-2-3 stitches over these and 3 stitches garter stitch. When A.1B-A.7B have been completed there are 102-106-114-120 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 stitches garter stitch, 2-4-8-11 stitches stockinette stitch, A.1C over A.1B, A.2C over A.2B, A.3C over A.3B, A.4C over A.4B, A.5C over A.5B, A.6C over A.6B, A.7C over A.7B, work 2-4-8-11 stitches stockinette stitch and 3 stitches garter stitch. There are now 102-106-114-120 stitches on the needle. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 18 cm / 7'' in all these sizes. Lay the piece to one side.

SIZES XXL-XXXL:
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 stitches garter stitch, work 5-9 stitches rib as before and decrease 1-0 stitches over these, work A.6C (= 11 stitches), work A.1B over A.1A, A.2B over A.2A, A.3B over A.3A, A.4B over A.4A, A.5B over A.5A, A.6B over A.6A, A.7B over A.7A, work A.2C (= 11 stitches), work 5-9 stitches rib as before and decrease 1-0 stitches over these, 3 stitches garter stitch. When A.1B-A.7B have been completed there are 128-138 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 stitches garter stitch, work 4-9 stitches stockinette stitch, continue A.6C (= 11 stitches), A.1C over A.1B, A.2C over A.2B, A.3C over A.3B, A.4C over A.4B, A.5C over A.5B, A.6C over A.6B, A.7C over A.7B, continue A.2C (= 11 stitches), work 4-9 stitches stockinette stitch and 3 stitches garter stitch. There are now 128-138 stitches on the needle. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 18 cm / 7'' in both sizes. Lay the piece to one side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for the back piece.

BODY:
Place the 2 pieces together on the same circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 = 204-212-228-240-256-276 stitches. Insert 1 marker in each side and allow the markers to follow your work upwards. Continue by working in the round over all stitches as before, but the garter stitches in each side are worked in stockinette stitch from here. When the piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18'' - adjust so that the next round is a round without yarn overs in the diagrams, decrease 2-2-4-6-8-10 stitches in each side (= 1-1-2-3-4-5 stitches on each side of each marker). Front and back pieces are now continued separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 100-104-110-114-120-128 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side). Start from the right side and continue the pattern back and forth as before but with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' start the diagonal shoulder AT THE SAME TIME as, when the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'', you bind off for the neck. Work as follows:
DIAGONAL SHOULDERS:
ROW 1 (= from right side): Work until there are 6-6-6-7-7-8 stitches left on the needle (towards shoulder), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Work until there are 6-6-6-7-7-8 stitches left on the needle (towards shoulder), turn and tighten the strand.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 three more times: work until 6-6-6-7-7-8 stitches more remain on the needle than on previous row from the same side, turn (= 6-8-10-8-10-10 stitches left on the shoulder). Work 1 ridge over all the 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches, bind off.
NECK:
When the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8'' decrease 3 stitches over each cable of 6 stitches and decrease 7 stitches over the cable of 14 stitches. When the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' bind off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches left on the shoulder. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 100-104-110-114-120-128 stitches. Continue in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''. Now decrease 3 stitches over each cable of 6 stitches and decrease 7 stitches over the cable of 14 stitches. When the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' place the middle 21-21-23-23-25-25 stitches on 1 thread for neck and each shoulder is finished separately AT THE SAME TIME as you work diagonal shoulders as for the back piece. Continue to bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time = 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches left on the shoulder. Work 1 ridge and bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle.
Cast on 42-42-42-50-50-50 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, work A.8A (= 12 stitches), A.9A (= 6 stitches), A.10A (= 12 stitches), * purl 2, knit 2 * work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.8B over A.8A, A.9B over A.9A, A.10B over A.10A, the remaining stitches are worked as before. When A.8B-A.10B have been completed there are 46-46-46-54-54-54 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-0-0-3-3-3 stitches stockinette stitch, 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches garter stitch, work A.8C over A.8B, A.9C over A.9B and A.10C over A.10B, work 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches garter stitch, 0-0-0-3-3-3 stitches stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 13-15-14-12-15-13 cm / 5"-6"-5½"-4 3/4"-6"-5'' increase 1 stitch in each side - read INCREASE INFORMATION above. Increase in this way every 4½-3½-2½-3-2½-2½ cm / 1 3/4"-1 1/4"-7/8"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8'' a total of 9-11-12-10-11-13 times = 64-68-70-74-76-80 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 53-52-51-50-49-48 cm / 21"-20½"-20"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19'' (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of broader shoulders). Now bind off for a small sleeve cap in each side as follows: bind off 7-7-8-8-9-9 stitches 2 times and bind off 6-8-7-9-8-10 stitches 1 time - decrease 1 stitch over each cable with holes and decrease 3 stitches over the cable of 6 stitches on the last bind off row. Bind off the remaining stitches. The piece measures approx. 55-54-53-52-51-50 cm / 21½"-21 1/4"-21"-20½"-20"-19 3/4'' with the cuff turned up. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge so that you get 2 ridges on top of the shoulder. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn the cuffs up on the right side.

NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 74-80 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread in front) with short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Purl 1 round and adjust the number of stitches to 72-72-76-76-80-80 stitches. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 10 cm / 4'', bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fold the neck double in towards the wrong side and fasten with small neat stitches - make sure the seam is not tight.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.10.2017
The diagrams have been updated.
Updated online: 25.06.2018
After instructions on how to work diagonal shoulders there were 2 instructions on how to cast off. This has been corrected to only include 1: Purl 1 row from right side over all the 30-32-34-36-38-42 stitches, cast off.
Updated online: 09.04.2019
Diagram A.7 is corrected, so that you cable in front of piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitches
= no stitch, skip this square
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= place 7 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 7, knit 7 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 184-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Chris 18.04.2019 - 19:12:

Lovely pattern but I'm stuck at the diagonal shoulders instructions. I'm doing size L, and I don't understand the sentence "work until 6 stitches more remain on the needle more than on previous row from the same side, turn (= 10 stitches left on the shoulder)" I have 24 stitches on each shoulder, after doing rows 1 and 2 flour times. Puzzled!

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 11:53:

Dear Chris, when working the diagonal shoulder, you are leaving unworked 6 sts more at the end of every row: at the end of 1st row there will be 6 sts left on one side, then on 2nd row 6 sts left on the other side, then 12 sts left at the end of next 2 rows, then 18 sts left at the end of next 2 rows and so on. When all short rows have been worked, 10 sts remain for shoulder. Now work 1 ridge over all stitches (also the one left unworked for the short rows). At the same time, you will shape neckline (decrease sts and cast off the middle stitches + 1 st towards neck). Happy knitting!

Ruth 03.03.2019 - 23:16:

Könntet ihr bitte die Anleitung korrigieren: am Ende der Beschreibung für das Rückenteil fehlt der Hinweis auf die Krausrippen, dies konnte ich mir nur aus der Anleitung für das Vorderteil erschließen. Herzlichen Dank für alle tollen Anleitungen!

Diana April Mikkelsen 24.02.2019 - 10:39:

Hej. Diagram A7 viser over 4 felter en skrå streg, der går nedefra og op. Jeg kan ikke se i symbol forklaringen, hvad der skal strikkes. Jeg kan kun se i symbol forklaringen hvad der skal strikkes hvis stregen går oppe fra og ned.

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 12:07:

Hej Diana, tak for info, vi tjekker om stregen vender fejl vej eller om vi skal lægge en mere symbol forklaring ud. Vi lægger en rettelse ud om nogle dage. :)

Jacqueline 09.01.2019 - 09:37:

Bij A1c moet ik (volgens mij) bij de kabels een omslag maken en dus steken meerderen. Die nieuwe steken zie ik niet in het telpatroon terug. Bij A2c zou ik van 3 naar 1 steek moeten minderen, en op de volgende 1 steek door omslag vermeerderen., maar dan kom ik steken tekort. Ik vermoed dat ik iets over het hoofd zie, kan je mij helpen?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 11:44:

Dag Jacqueline,

Bij A.1c maak je inderdaad 2 omslagen, maar je mindert ook 2 steken (schuine streepjes), waardoor je weer op het zelfde aantal steken uitkomt. Bij A.2c minder je 1 steek: van 3 steken naar 2 steken (de afgehaalde steek over de 2 gebreide steken halen) en op de volgende naald maak je een omslag, zodat je weer op het zelfde aantal steken komt.

Ditte 27.11.2018 - 11:42:

Hej, Jeg forstår ikke afsnittet omkring skrå skulder: der står, at man skal strikke frem til der er 6 m tilbage på p, og derefter vende og gøre det samme på næste p, men hvis man så skal gentage disse to pinde 3 gange, vil man så ikke vende det samme sted hver gang, altså med de 6 m tilbage på pinden? Det giver vel et stort hul, når man så strikke en p vrang til sidst? Håber, I kan hjælpe.

DROPS Design 03.12.2018 kl. 08:39:

Hei Ditte. Du strikker til det gjenstår 6 masker mer enn på forrige pinne, altså du strikker over 6 masker mindre hver gang. Vi har nå lagt dette til i oppskriften. God fornøyelse.

Stina 16.09.2018 - 20:12:

Hei! Har et spørsmål ift diagrammet. Siden det strikkes frem og tilbake, viser F. Eks andre og siste rekke i B diagrammene hvordan en skal strikke vrangsiden? Eller viser den neste pinne som skal strikkes fra rettsiden?

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 07:53:

Hei Stina. Diagrammene viser hver pinne i mønsteret, men sett fra rettsiden. Det vil si at når du strikker fra vrangsiden må du strikke omvendt av det som står. Altså du strikker fra venstre mot høyre, i tillegg til at rett strikkes vrang og vrang strikkes rett (dette står også forklart i symbolforklaringen). God fornøyelse.

Connie Møller 20.06.2018 - 21:40:

Jeg kan slet ikke finde ud af jeres afsnit med hals og skulder. Begge steder står der, at skal lukkes af. Det ene sted står det at der skal strikkes en pind vrang fra retsiden. Det andet sted skal man strikke to pinde retstrik og så lukke af? Jeg er forvirret. Kan forklare det?

DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 14:07:

Hei Connie. Her var det visst kommet dobbelt opp med instruksjoner. Dette har nå blitt rettet, du skal felle av etter en pinne vrang fra retten. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse.

Linda Flokenes 13.02.2018 - 16:48:

Hei Det står henvist til diagram A1 - A10? men det er bare 6 diagrammer? Jeg ser det står at diagrammer er oppdatert, men jeg kan ikke finne disse?

DROPS Design 14.02.2018 kl. 14:13:

Hei Linda. Alle 10 diagrammer finner du nederst i oppskriften. Har du er treigt nettverk kan det hende det er grunnen til at ikke alle diagrammene er lastet ned. Men når jeg sjekker hos oss er alle på nett. Så prøv igjen :) mvh Drops design

Berit Aagesen 31.01.2018 - 16:02:

Åh ja nu ser jeg det. Sorry, men billedet har mange flere rækker en i opskriftens 5 rækker. Det kan man jo selv rette. Mvh Berit

Berit Aagesen 31.01.2018 - 14:41:

Jeg kan altså ikke se hvor der står noget om ribkanten forneden af blusen. Billedet viser ikke noget mønster i de første 8 cm. ? Mvh Berit

DROPS Design 01.02.2018 kl. 07:50:

Hei Berit. Under BAGSTYKKE, står hele forklaringe på hvordan vrangborden/de første 8 cm skal strikkes. F.esk i str S. Slå 88 masker op på rundpind 5. Strik 1 pind vrang fra vrangen. Næste pind strikkes således fra retsiden: Strik 3 masker RETSTRIK - se forklaring over i oppskriften, strik 2 ret, * 2 vrang, 2 ret *, strik fra *-* totalt 0 gange, A.1A, A.2A, A.3A, A.4A, A.5A, A.6A, A.7A, * 2 ret, 2 vrang *, strik fra *-* totalt 0 gange, strik 2 ret, 3 masker retstrik. Fortsæt dette mønster til arbejdet måler 8 cm. God Fornøyelse!

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