DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g

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Svalbard

Knitted jacket with multi-colored Norwegian pattern, garter stitch and band collar in rib. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS 181-17

#svalbardjacket

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-088
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 03, pearl gray
150-200-200-250-250-250 g color 01, off white
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 10, fog

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16" and 32") SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") SIZE 5 mm/US 8 for rib – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

DROPS METAL BUTTONS, Round (steel) NO 542: 4 items in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
* Work A.1 once in height, then A.2 once in height *, work from *-* to finished length. A.1 + A.2 together measure approx. 43 cm / 17" in height.

DECREASE TIP (for mid front):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease on the inside of 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch: Start 2 stitches before the edge stitch and knit 2 together.

DECREASE TIP/INCREASE TIP (evenly on row):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly on row, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 185 stitches) and divide by the number of decrease/increases to be made (e.g. 38) = 4.9. In other words, in this example you decrease by knitting together approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. If you are increasing, do this after approx. every 5th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row, work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP (for the band):
Increase 1 stitch at the end of every purl section (seen from the right side) by picking up the loop between 2 stitches in the transition between purl and knit. Purl the loop twisted to prevent holes.
The next time you increase will be at the end of each knit section and the loop is knitted twisted.

BUTTONHOLE:
Decrease for the buttonhole on the right band collar (when the garment is worn).
Decrease from the right side in a purl section. 1 BUTTONHOLE = purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row (= wrong side) knit the yarn over so that there is a hole.
The top buttonhole should be approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8 ¾"-9" from the shoulder and down, the 3 next in every other purl section (count out from the top buttonhole where the bottom buttonhole should be made).
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BODY:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front.
The band collar is worked at the end by knitting up stitches mid front.

Cast on 185-197-215-245-257-287 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and pearl gray. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left on the row, finish with knit 3 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib in this way, but after every 5th row, purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side (this is done to prevent the rib being tight). When the rib measures 15 cm / 6", knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 38-38-44-50-50-56 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE TIP/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced) = 147-159-171-195-207-231 stitches. Change to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work PATTERN according to diagram A.1 – see description above, until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way until the piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19¾"-20"-20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝" (after A.1 continue with A.2 in the same way).
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
The next row is worked as follows: Work 32-35-37-42-44-50 stitches (= front piece), bind off 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches for armhole, work 75-81-85-99-103-115 stitches (= back piece), bind off 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches for armhole and work the last 32-35-37-42-44-50 stitches (= front piece). The front and back pieces are now finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 75-81-85-99-103-115 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before and bind off for the armhole at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: bind off 2 stitches 0-0-0-2-2-4 times and 1 stitch 1-2-2-4-4-5 times = 73-77-81-83-87-89 stitches. Continue the pattern with1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾" bind off the middle 13-13-13-15-15-15 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern and bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 29-31-33-33-35-36 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½. Bind off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 32-35-37-42-44-50 stitches. Continue the pattern and bind off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as for the back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm / 20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝"-22"-22½" decrease 1 stitch for the neck towards mid front – read DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decrease in sizes S + M + L when the piece measures 62-63-64 cm / 24½"-24¾"-25¼" (do not work anymore decreases in the other sizes). After all the decreases for armhole and neck, there are 29-31-33-33-35-36 stitches on the row for the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as for the right but reversed.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Change to short circular needle when you have enough stitches. Cast on 36-36-36-48-48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and pearl gray. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm / 2". Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve) and allow the marker thread to follow your work upwards. Change to double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and work PATTERN in the round according to diagram A.1 – see description above. When the piece measures 6-6-6-8-8-9 cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-3"-3"-3½" increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve (increase by working 2 stitches in the first and the last stitch on the round – NOTE: The increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go). Increase in this way every 3½-3-2½-3-2½-2 cm / 1¼"-1⅛"-⅞"-1⅛"-⅞"-¾" a total of 12-13-15-11-13-14 times = 60-62-66-70-74-76 stitches. When the piece measures 46-45-45-42-41-39 cm / 18"-17¾"-17¾"-16½"-16"-15¼" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) bind off the middle 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches under the sleeve (i.e. Bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches on each side of the marker thread). Continue by working the sleeve cap back and forth with circular needle. Continue the pattern and bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: bind off 3 stitches 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-1-3-3-6 times. Continue by binding off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row in each side until the piece measures 50 cm / 19¾" in all sizes. Bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and then LOOSELY bind off the remaining stitches. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

RIGHT BAND COLLAR:
Start from the right side at the bottom of the right front piece and knit up approx. 122 to 140 stitches along the front piece to mid back of the neck with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and pearl gray (knit up inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch). Knit 1 row from the wrong side where you increase evenly along the row to 149-155-161-167-173-179 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side (starting mid back of neck): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch (from the right side, this will be 3 stitches garter stitch and knit 3 at the bottom of the front piece and purl 3 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch mid back of neck).
When the band collar measures 2 cm / ¾" insert 1 marker after 38-38-38-44-44-50 stitches counted from mid back of neck and down. On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch in each purl section over these 38-38-38-44-44-50 stitches (= 6-6-6-7-7-8 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP (this is done so that the collar will lie neatly when folded over). When the band collar measures 4 cm / 1½" increase in the same way in each knit section (= 6-6-6-7-7-8 stitches increased). Repeat the increases in each purl section when the band collar measure 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾" and in each knit section when the band collar measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½". AT THE SAME TIME when the band collar measures 7-7-7-9-9-9 cm / 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3½"-3½"-3½" decrease for 4 BUTTONHOLES – see description above. After all the increases, there are 173-179-185-195-201-211 stitches on the row. When the band collar measures 9-9-9-11-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-3½"-4½"-4½"-4½" bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND COLLAR:
Start from the right side mid back of neck and knit up stitches in the same way as for the right band collar. Work as for the right band collar, but in reverse, i.e. the first row of rib is worked from the wrong side as follows (= from the bottom of the front piece): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 3, knit 3 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Do not decrease for buttonholes on the left band collar.

ASSEBLY:
Sew in the sleeves. Sew the collar together mid back – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. When the collar is turned down, there will be 4 stitches garter stitch mid back with knit 3 on each side of these stitches. Lay the right band over the left band and mark the position of the buttons. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with pearl grey
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side with pearl grey
	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with off white
	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with fog
	= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches with off white
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 with off white, pass the slipped stitch over
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together with off white, pass the slipped stitch over
	= on this row, work the first 2 stitches in A.1/A.2 instead of the first stitch in A.1/A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of the row (for row 41 in A.1 and row 29 and 51 in A.2).

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

Monika Waiblinger wrote:

Die Angaben zu Maschenprobe und Angaben in der Anleitung stimmen nicht überein. Maschenprobe sagt, 20 R =10 cm. Die Anleitung sagt A1 + A2=43 cm. A1 + A 2 = 102 R = 51 cm wenn 20 R = 10 cm. Damit hätte ich nach Musterende bereits 8 cm mehr als in der Anleitung angegeben. D.h. Dass alles länger wird als angegeben wenn die Maschenprobe stimmt. Ich bitte um Erklärung. Danke.

10.01.2025 - 14:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Waiblinger, beachten Sie, daß die Maschenprobe glattrechts gestrickt wird (= 20 Reihen glattrechts), aber beim A.1 und A.2 sind es Rückreihen rechts gestrickt (also Krausrippen), das wird dann die Reihenanzahl ändern. Mit solchen Muster ist die Maschenprobe in der Höhe nicht so wichtig, auch wenn Sie die 20 Reihen Glattrechts in der Höhe nicht haben, wiederholen Sie einfach A.1 und A.2 wie erklärt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

10.01.2025 - 15:56

Monique wrote:

In the right band collar, how do we knit the increased stitches in each purl section , knit or purl? The added stitch breaks the k3 p3 rib pattern.

29.11.2024 - 03:38

Dear Monique, you will change to a purl 4, knit 3 pattern (you increase with a purl stitch in between the 3 purl stitches). Happy knitting!

07.12.2024 - 19:36

Nicole wrote:

Ik brei maat L. Begin met A1 1 kantsteek en dan A1 in patroon. Ik begin met 1 kantsteek, 2 st naturel, 1 fog maar eindig met 1 steek fog, 1 steek naturel (ipv 2) 1 kantsteek. Er lijkt dus een steek te weinig te zijn? Ik kom nu niet symmetrisch uit.

01.11.2024 - 06:02

What button size should be used for this pattern?

28.10.2024 - 04:17

Dear Monique, these buttons were approx. 23 mm diameter. Happy knitting!

28.10.2024 - 10:04

Maria wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu einer Anleitung von Drops design(Svalbard) Ich verstehe die Erklärung zur Reihe mit dem Pfeil der nach links zeigt nicht. Was genau bedeutet das? „In dieser Reihe die ersten 2 Maschen von A1/A2 statt die 1. Masche von A1/A2 stricken und am Ende der Reihe 1 Randmasche kraus rechts Stricken“. Fehlt da nicht ein Verb?

18.12.2023 - 16:10

Liebe Maria, am Ende von diesen Reihen (mit dem Pfeil) wiederholen Sie das Diagram bis 3 Maschen übrig sind, dann stricken Sie die 2 ersten Maschen vom A.1 bzw A.2 und 1 Randmasche Krausrechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.12.2023 - 08:14

Kerstin Strömwall wrote:

Undrar om jag kan får diagrammet i en pdf-fil så att jag kan lägga in den mitt program KnitCompanion? Måste förstora mönstret då jag ser dåligt. Har köpt Air-garn så jag vill börja sticka snarast! Tacksam för svar./Kerstin Strömwall

25.12.2022 - 19:04

Är framkanten enfärgad eller hur randar man den? Blir inte bra med aviga på räta på rätsidan. Tänkte sticka enfärgad eller randig nedifrån och upp och sy på den efteråt. Kan man göra det? Dessutom sticka bålen på rundsticka med steek i mitten och klippa. Snyggare mönsterstickning då som i norska tröjor. Gör så även för ärmen. Är det OK?

25.09.2022 - 09:04

Hei Kerstin. Stolpen strikkes i 1 farge, perlegrå. Man strikker opp masker fra retten innenfor 1 kantmaske, deretter strikkes det 1 pinne rett fra vrangen, så 1 pinne rett fra retten. Deretter starter man å strikke 3 rett / 3 vrang. Du kan strikke stolpen nedenifra og opp og sy den på tilslutt, bare tilpass den (blir litt anderledes stolpe enn hva du ser på bildet). Du kan fint strikke rundt og klippe opp. Ermene strikkes rundt, men når arbeidet måler 46-45-45-42-41-39 cm felles de midterste maskene og ermene strikkes frem og tilbake i ca 4-5-5-8-9-11 cm. mvh DROPS Design

26.09.2022 - 11:46

Dagmar wrote:

Braucht man wirklich nur so wenig Wolle??

13.01.2022 - 17:31

Liebe Dagmar, 1 Knäuel DROPS Air ist 50 g und ca 150 Meter - sollte Ihre Maschenprobe (in der Breite sowie in der Höhe) stimmen, dann stimmt auch die Garnmenge. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2022 - 09:12

Diane wrote:

Merci beaucoup Drops. C'est beaucoup plus clair. De ce que je peux constater en ce moment c'est un merveilleux modèle. J'ai eu beaucoup de plaisirs à le monter.

06.04.2021 - 14:16

Modèle 181-17 En ce qui concerne le col et les augmentations afin que le col tombe bien: les augmentations entre deux mailles se font-elles à tous les rangs aller-retour ou aux deux rangs? Ou aux deux cm comme l'a mentionnée une autre correspondante?

04.04.2021 - 20:50

Bonjour Diane, vous augmentez - sur l'endroit - à 2 cm puis à 4 cm puis à 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm et enfin à 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm. !bon tricot!

06.04.2021 - 13:56

Svalbard

Knitted jacket with multi-colored Norwegian pattern, garter stitch and band collar in rib. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (62)

Svalbard

Knitted jacket with multi-colored Norwegian pattern, garter stitch and band collar in rib. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

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	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	6.45 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	6.45 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 6.45 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 6.45 $ /50g Order