Adrien by DROPS Design

Knitted cardigan with structured pattern, v-neck and split in the sides in DROPS Cotton Merino. For baby and children in sizes 0 - 6 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-012-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200 (250-250-300) g color 29, sea green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16'' or 24'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16'' or 24'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for garter stitch edges.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, (Coconut) NO 516: 4-4-4 (5-5-5) items.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose the right diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the right side, knit 1, knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn overs so that there are holes.
Decrease for the buttonholes when the piece measures:
1/3 months: 4, 9, 14 and 19 cm / 1 1/2, 3 1/2", 5 1/2" and 7 1/2"
6/9 months: 5, 10, 15 and 20 cm / 2", 4", 6" and 8"
12/18 months: 5, 11, 17 and 23 cm / 2", 4 3/8", 6 3/4" and 9"
2 years: 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 cm / 2", 4", 6", 8" and 9 3/4"
3/4 years: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm / 2", 4 3/4", 6 3/4", 9" and 11 3/8"
5/6 years: 5, 12, 19, 26 and 33 cm / 2", 4 3/4", 7 1/2", 10 1/4" and 13"

DECREASE TIP (for the neckline):
Decrease for the v-neck on the inside of the 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 5 band stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 5 band stitches: Work until there are 7 stitches left on the needle, knit 2 together and work the 5 band stitches in garter stitches (= 1 stitch decreased).
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JACKET:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle in separate sections. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 51-55-59 (65-69-73) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and Cotton Merino. Work 2 RIDGES back and forth – see description above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work the next row as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, 13-15-17 (18-20-22) stitches stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 19-19-19 (23-23-23) stitches), 13-15-17 (18-20-22) stitches stockinette stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 18-19-21 (23-26-29) cm / 7"-7½"-8 1/4" (9"-10 1/4"-11½") work 2 ridges over the outermost 6 stitches in each side (the other stitches are worked as before). When you have worked 2 ridges in each side, bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 45-49-53 (59-63-67) stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, 10-12-14 (15-17-19) stitches stockinette stitch, continue with A.1 over the next 19-19-19 (23-23-23) stitches, 10-12-14 (15-17-19) stitches stockinette stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue the pattern in this way. When the piece measures 26-28-31 (34-38-42) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13½"-15"-16½") bind off the middle 13-13-13 (17-17-17) stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 15-17-19 (20-22-24) stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 28-30-33 (36-40-44) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4") – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and loosely bind off in knit from the right side! Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-34 (37-39-41) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 (including 5 band stitches towards mid front). Work 2 ridges. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2 (= 9-9-9 (11-11-11) stitches), 13-15-17 (18-20-22) stitches stockinette stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side. Continue the pattern in this way – remember BUTTONHOLES on the band – see description above. When the piece measures 18-19-21 (23-26-29) cm / 7"-7½"-8 1/4" (9"-10 1/4"-11½") , work 2 ridges over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side (the other stitches are worked as before). When you have worked 2 ridges in the side bind off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the side for the armhole = 27-29-31 (34-36-38) stitches. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, continue with A.2 over the next 9-9-9 (11-11-11) stitches, 10-12-14 (15-17-19) stitches stockinette stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue the pattern in this way. AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked 1 row from the wrong side after the last buttonhole (the piece measures approx. 20-21-24 (26-30-34) cm / 8"-8 1/4"-9½" (10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13½"), knit the 5 band stitches, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back over the 5 band stitches (in other words, the other stitches on the needle are not worked). Then work as before across all the stitches again (this is done to insure that the band lies neatly around the neck). AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, begin decreasing for the v-neck. Decrease 1 stitch on the inside of the 5 band stitches in garter stitch – READ DECREASE TIP.

Decrease in this way every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) a total
of 4 times in all sizes, then on every 2nd row (i.e. on every row from the right side)
a total of 3-3- 3 (5-5- 5) times = 20-22- 24 (25-27- 29) stitches left on the shoulder.

Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 28-30-33 (36-40-44) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-12" (14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4") – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, turn the piece, knit the 5 band stitches and bind off the remaining 15-17- 19 (20-22- 24) stitches on the shoulder. Cut the strand.

NECKLINE:
Work garter stitch back and forth over the 5 band stitches for the neckline until the it measures approx. 5-5-5 (6-6-6) cm / 2"-2"-2" (2½"-2½"-2½") from the shoulder, bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as for the right, but reversed. In other words, work A.3 instead of A.2 (do not decrease for buttonholes on the left band). On the first row from the wrong side when the piece measures 20-21-24 (26-30-34) cm / 8"-8 1/4"-9½" (10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13½") knit the 5 band stitches, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back over the 5 band stitches (i.e. the other stitches on the needle are not worked). Then work as before over all the stitches again (this is done to insure that the band will lie neatly around the neck). AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side begin decreasing for the v-neck – READ DECREASE TIP. Continue working until there is one row left before finished length – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, turn the piece, bind off the first 15-17- 19 (20-22- 24) stitches and knit the 5 band stitches. Continue working garter stitch back and forth over the 5 band stitches until the neckline measures 5-5-5 (6-6-6) cm / 2"-2"-2" (2½"-2½"-2½") from the shoulder, bind off.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 32-32-34 (36-38-38) stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 2 RIDGES in the round – see description above. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 4-4-5 (6-7-8) cm / 1½"-1½"-2" (2½"-2 3/4"-3") insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). On the next round increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 5½-3½-3 (3-3-3) cm / 2 1/4"-1 1/4"-1" (1"-1"-1") a total of 3-5-6 (7-8-10) times = 38-42-46 (50-54-58) stitches. When the piece measures 18-20-23 (27-31-35) cm / 7"-8"-9" (10½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4") divide the piece mid under the sleeve. Insert 1 marker, work 3 rows stockinette stitch back and forth over all the stitches and loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew together the neckline mid back - the seam turns in towards the wrong side. Sew the neckline to the neck edge at the back of the neck. Sew the side seams edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch from the armhole and down, but stop when there is still approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8'' at the bottom in each side (= split).
Sew in the sleeves – the marker mid under the sleeve should fit to the side of the body.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.10.2017
Corrections on back piece and both front pieces.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 28-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Judy 26.01.2020 - 21:59:

Thanks for the quick reply. But... 110cm? For a child? That's an adult M/L. If you look at the schematic 35x 2=70. That's reasonable. Now to start! 😛

DROPS Design 26.01.2020 kl. 22:54:

Dear Judy, 110 cm is the height of the child. The measurements in Kids' patterns are based on the height of the children (up to 170 cm). For example, 110 is for 5 years and 140 for 10 years old. Happy knitting!

Judy 25.01.2020 - 20:58:

The measurements given in sizing don't seem right. 110 for a size 5? Could you confirm please? Sizes in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116)

DROPS Design 26.01.2020 kl. 20:36:

Dear Judy. the measurements are correct, 110 cm is for size 5. The size name may vary depending on the country; to pick the right size you should compare the measurements of the person to the measurements below the pattern in the diagram.

Eileen Popplewell 02.10.2019 - 21:18:

In the english version of the pattern, directions say to bind off middle 13 stitches when piece measures 12.25 inches. Continue to bind off 1 stitch at neck edge every row until pie measures 12 inches. How can I continue to knit binding off and stop shorter than the original middle bind off? Please help.

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs Popplewell, when piece measures 12.20" (= 31 cm) you bind off the middle 13 stitches = 20 sts remain for each shoulder, work each shoulder separately binding off 1 stitch towards neck = 19 sts remain and continue over these 19 sts until piece measures 12.99 " (= 33 cm) US-measurement will be here eidted. Happy knitting!

Nanou57 18.02.2019 - 20:14:

Merci de votre réponse - je n'avais pas pensé à me servir du traducteur…. je le ferai !

Nanou57 16.02.2019 - 21:09:

Bonsoir, quel dommage que les commentaires ne soient pas traduits en Français également ! ils paraissent forts intéressants et je ne comprends pas…. serait-il possible qu'ils y soient un jour ? merci de votre réponse et belle soirée !

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 09:49:

Bonjour Nanou57, vous pouvez volontiers utiliser un traducteur en ligne, même si les traductions paraissent parfois fantaisistes, on arrive ainsi à saisir le sens de la question/réponse. Si vous avez vous même une question, n'hésitez pas à utiliser cet espace pour la poser. Bon tricot!

Jeanine Stevens 18.02.2018 - 12:40:

Waar kan ik de correcties vinden? Al ik op de rode letters klik gebeurt er niets

DROPS Design 18.02.2018 kl. 13:54:

Hoi Jeanine, Misschien is het nodig om even je browser te verversen met F5 (of de cache te legen met Ctrl + F5) Dit zijn de correcties: Correcties op zowel voor- als achterpand. Gewijzigd online: 31.10.2017 De correcties zijn reeds doorgevoerd op de online versie van het patroon.

Linda 23.01.2018 - 13:20:

Voor dit patroon (maat 2 jaar) heb ik minder dan 4 bollen gebruikt. Niet de aanbevolen 5.

Sandra 16.11.2017 - 11:39:

Hoi, Bij het minderen op de voorpanden, staat in het online-patroon een andere instructie dan op de printversie!

DROPS Design 17.11.2017 kl. 11:58:

Hallo Annelies, Helaas komt het soms voor dat er een fout staat in het patroon, terwijl de breiboeken al uit zijn gekomen. In dat geval kun je correcties vinden in het tabblad 'correcties' rechts van de foto van het patroon online. Bij dit patroon is er op 31 oktober een correctie geweest.

Corine 20.10.2017 - 12:23:

Hi i would really like to finish this sweater but i am waiting for your answer. How is it possible that the pictures shows that the pattern continues on the front up till the top of the shoulder? when i follow the instructions i have to take 1 off after the first 5 stiches 11 times, which means that the 11 pattern stiches are finished...

DROPS Design 20.10.2017 kl. 14:18:

Dear Corine, thanks for your feedback, pattern has now been edited - see also under tab "corrections". Happy knitting!

Corine 13.10.2017 - 11:49:

Hi i have a question about pattern Adrien. Als ik voor de v-hals 11 keer een steek heb geminderd, dan is het hele patroon A2 weg en ga ik van de 5voorbiessteken meteen over op de 17 steken in tricotsteek. Echter op de foto zie ik na de voorbies 1 tricot steeek, 2(?) ribbel en dan het grotere vlak in tricot. Heb ik iets fout gedaan of klopt de beschrijving niet?

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