DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-1376
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-661
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: approx. 15 cm = 6" high and approx. 34 cm = 13 3/8" in circumference at bottom.
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g color 17, off white
50 g color 32, light blue purple
50 g color 59, light old pink
50 g color 60, dark old pink
A remnant of dark grey for the eyes and snout.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7 – or the size needed to get 16 single crochets and 18 rows on 10 cm = 4” in width and 10 cm = 4” in height. And 14 stitches pattern A.3 on 10 cm = 4” in width.

ACCESSORIES: A little padding to fill.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET TIP:
Each round starts with 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first stitch), the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 single crochet by working 2 single crochets in the same stitch.
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SHEEP:
The sheep is worked in the round and top down. It is worked in parts and these are worked together with the body as you go. First work the bottom. Then work the ears and head separately before they are worked together. The body and legs are worked at the end.

BOTTOM:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work A.1 a total of 6 times in the round – READ CROCHET TIP and REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed in height, there are 48 single crochets on the last round. The bottom measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8" in diameter. Cut and fasten the strand.

EAR:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and dark old pink and form them to a ring with1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Remember CROCHET TIP! Work 4 single crochets around the chain-stitch ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 single crochets in each single crochet = 8 single crochets.
ROUNDS 3-5: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
Fold the ear flat so that there are 4 single crochets on each side. Work the ear together by working 1 single crochet through both layers - work 1 single crochet in each of the 4 single crochets = 4 single crochets. Cut and Fasten the strand. Work 1 more ear in the same way.

HEAD:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and light old pink and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Then work A.2 a total of 4 times in the round - Remember CROCHET TIP! When A.2 has been completed in height, there are 16 single crochets on the last round. The head measures approx. 5 cm = 2" in height.
Change to off white and work the head and ears together as follows:

WORKING THE HEAD AND EARS TOGETHER:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 2 single crochets, lay the ear (= 4 single crochets) down along the head, matching the next 4 single crochets and work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets through both layers, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets (= mid front), lay the other ear (= 4 single crochets) along the head, matching the next 4 single crochets and work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets through both layers, finish with 1 single crochet in each of the last 2 single crochets.
ROUND 2: Work the first round in A.3 a total of 8 times in the round. Cut and fasten the strand.
Eyes and snout: Embroider the eyes and snout with a remnant of dark grey. Cut and fasten the strand.
Fill the head with a little padding (should not be hard, but quite plump).
Fold the head flat so that the ears are in the middle of each side and there are 8 single crochets on the top of the head and 8 single crochets underneath. Start on the one side and work the head together with off white by working 1 single crochet through both layers - work 1 single crochet in each of the 8 single crochets = 8 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

BODY:
The body is worked top down.
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Then work A.4 a total of 8 times in the round - Remember CROCHET TIP! When A.4 has been completed in height, there are 16 stitches on the last round.

WORKING THE BODY AND HEAD TOGETHER:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 4 stitches, lay the head (= 8 single crochets) matching the next 8 single crochets and work 1 single crochet in each of the next 8 single crochets through both layers, finish with 1 single crochet in each of the last 4 single crochets = 16 single crochets.

Now work the first round in A.3 a total of 8 times on the round. Then work the 2nd round in A.3 AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4 single crochets evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP! = 20 single crochets.
Now work body as follows:
ROUND 1: Work the first round in A.3 the whole round.
ROUND 2: Work the 2nd round in A.3 and increase 4 single crochets evenly along the round = 24 stitches.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 two more times, then repeat round 1 = 32 stitches
Now work 4 legs: Work in the same way as the ear, but the legs are worked in light blue purple.
Place 1 leg each side of mid front of the sheep (with 8 stitches between legs). Work them together with body through both layers while working as round 2 = 36 stitches.
Work rounds 1 and 2, 3 times more and then work round 1 = 48 stitches.
Place 1 leg each side of mid front of the sheep (with 16 stitches between the legs). Work them together through both layers while working 1 single crochet in each stitch = 48 single crochets. Do not cut the strand!

WORKING THE BODY AND BOTTOM TOGETHER:
Lay the bottom (= 48 single crochets on the last round) with right side out and work it together with the body (= 48 single crochets) by working 1 single crochet in each single crochet through both layers - NOTE! Fill the sheep full of padding (should be quite firm) as you go. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Work 4 chain stitches crochets and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch – black spot on the circle is the start of the round.
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around the chain-stitch ring
symbols = Work 2 treble crochets and 1 single crochet together as follows: Work 2 treble crochets in the stitch – but wait with the last yarn over on both of these treble crochets, work 1 single crochet in the same stitch and pull the strand through all the loops on the hook (= 1 stitch)
symbols = shows the last round worked - start on the next round!
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Bonjour, pour l'assemblage de du corps et de la tête, je ne comprends pas dans quel sens poser la tête . Dois-je mettre la tête à l'avant ou l'arrière de base du corps? Merci beaucoup

07.03.2024 - 17:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvia, la tête doit se trouver au milieu du corps, au dernier rang de la tête, vous avez 8 mailles serrées avant de couper le fil. Au dernier rang de A.4, vous avez 16 mailles serrées, les tours commencent au milieu dos; vous crochetez d'abord 4 mailles serrées, puis les 8 mailles serrées suivantes en crochetant en même temps la tête et le corps (= 1 maille serrée dans chacune des mailles suivantes du corps + 1 maille serrée de la tête) et terminez ce tour par 4 mailles serrées = 16 mailles serrées. Bon crochet!

08.03.2024 - 08:16

country flag Ronnie De Gooijer wrote:

Wat betekent het als er achter een T een schuine T staat?

04.09.2022 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ronnie,

Deze schuine T is ook gewoon een vaste.

09.09.2022 - 12:56

country flag Maj-Lis Jonsson wrote:

Undrar vart beskrivningen på benen tagit vägen i den svenska översättningen. Öron och huvud finns, men inte ben.

25.03.2022 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maj-Lis. Det finns förklaring på benen under "HOPVIRKNING AV KROPP OCH HUVUD": Nu virkas det 4 ben: Virka på samma sätt som öra, men benen virkas med ljus blålila. Mvh DROPS Design

25.03.2022 - 10:22

country flag Brigid wrote:

There is a mistake in the US terms pattern – see below it reads „working dc in ea st = 48 dc“. This is wrong, it should be single crochet (sc) throughout because the British term pattern calls for double crochet which translates to single crochet in US terms. „Place 1 leg each side of mid front of the sheep (with 16 stitches between the legs). Work them together through both layers while working 1 double crochet in each stitch = 48 double crochets. Do not cut the strand!“

21.03.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Brigid, thanks for your feedback, pattern will be edited asap. Happy crocheting!

22.03.2022 - 10:05

country flag Mirte wrote:

Hoi, ik vind dit een heel leuk patroon en het is misschien een stomme vraag, maar ik snap de haaktip niet. 1 losse (vervangt de eerste vaste niet) en eindigen met de halve vaste in de eerste losse. Hoe ik dit ook doe ik eindig met 49 steken(lusjes) ipv 48 en het ziet er heel raar uit. Ik heb het filmpje gekeken, maar die is (voor mij) niet heel duidelijk. Wat doe ik fout?

05.03.2021 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mirte,

De vaste en de losse aan het begin en eind van de toer tellen niet mee in het aantal steken.

09.03.2021 - 11:17

country flag Madde wrote:

Kan jag få en utförligare förklaring på A4?

21.01.2021 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Madde, titta på vår video: Hur man virkar bubblorna till fåret

27.01.2021 - 14:51

country flag Anna D wrote:

Hi. I had left an earlier comment regarding round 2 on the head and ear. While waiting for the reply i decided to try the body. But I do not get it. I just do not understand the instructions or the the diagram. Even guessing doesn¨t wotk. Help

04.05.2020 - 17:46

country flag Anna D wrote:

I do not under stand A3. Help

03.05.2020 - 05:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna D, A.3 is worked over 2 sts and 3 rows. Work on row 1: *2 trebles + 1 sc worked tog (see 4th symbol), 1 sc in next sc*, repeat from *-*. Row 2: work 1 sc in each stitch. Happy crocheting!

04.05.2020 - 13:51

country flag Dar wrote:

Do you have any free crochet patters that don't use a chart???? I never could read charts. It would take me too far long to make anything. My grandmother taught when I was five, I will be 65 in September. I love crochet over knitting as I can go faster. ThanksDar

17.04.2019 - 00:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dar, there are some -older- patterns that have the charts written out, but generally, our patterns are charted. It is much easier to see the stitches'places in relation to each other, as well as the shape of the piece. We also have video tutorials, and you can always ask for help in person - for example to make sense of the charts - at the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. It is well wort learning how to decipher a chart, as you will have so many more paterns to choose from. Happy Crafting!

17.04.2019 - 02:24

country flag Carina Sanna wrote:

Förstår inte hur A.4 och A.3 och A.1 och A.2 ska göras. Den film som ni lagt ut gör ju bara första varvet på kroppen. Tacksam för detaljerad beskrivning av detta. Tack på förhand Har även gjort några av dom andra djuren och det är många brister på hur man ska göra. Ni kanske skulle se över beskrivningarna.

10.03.2019 - 09:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Carina. Det hekles etter diagram, nettopp fordi det er mer oversiktlig enn å forklare med ord. Etter at du har laget luftmaskeringen hekler du etter A.1. Første omgang av A.1 = 1 fastmaske om ringen. Du gjentar A.1 6 ganger = 6 fastmasker. På 2 omgang hekler du 2 fastmasker i hver fastmaske = 12 fastmasker. 3 omgang hekles slik: 1 fastmaske i den første fastmasken, 2 fastmasker i neste. Gjenta ut omgangen = 18 fastmasker, osv. Du kan se vår nye leksjon hvordan å lese heklediagrammer, her. Håper dette hjelper. God fornøyelse

18.03.2019 - 11:02