DROPS / 178 / 16

Vanilla Kiss by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with lace pattern on shoulders and sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Puna.

DROPS Design: Pattern no pu-010
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 for garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 4.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

SHOULDER:
NOTE: All increases worked from right side! On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Increase 2 stitches as follows:
INCREASE 2 STITCHES BEFORE MARKERS 1 AND 3: Start 3 stitches before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 1, (= 2 stitches increased).
INCREASE 2 STITCHES AFTER MARKERS 2 AND 4: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
Increase 1 stitch as follows:
INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE MARKERS 1 AND 3: Start 1 stitch before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 1 stitch increased).
INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER MARKERS 2 AND 4: Knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased).

SLEEVE CAP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over (make sure the yarn over is not too loose). On next round: purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes – knit the first 21 stitches
increased, purl the remaining stitches.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of front and back pieces):
Increase on inside of the 4 outermost stitches in each side (i.e. 3 edge stitches in garter stitch + 1 stitch in stockinette stitch). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid a hole (the increased stitch is worked in stockinette stitch).

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before marker mid under sleeve, purl 2 together, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), purl 2 together (= 2 stitches decreased).
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SWEATER
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down, as far as below the sleeves. Then the front and back pieces are worked separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round. The photo deviates somewhat from
pattern regarding increases in sleeve caps (A.2) – the fit has been improved.

YOKE:
Cast on 102-102-106-106-110-110 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and Puna. The round starts mid back. Insert a marker here which will follow your work onwards. Work 2 RIDGES in the round – see description above. Insert 4 new markers in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert marker 1 after the first 19-19-20-20-21-21 stitches (= ½ back piece), marker 2 after the next 13 stitches (= shoulder/sleeve), marker 3 after the next 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches (= front piece), marker 4 after the next 13 stitches (= shoulder/sleeve), there are now 19-19-20-20-21-21 stitches left after the last marker (= ½ back piece). Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.

Now work short rows over the stitches in the neck for a better fit, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase stitches to shoulder and work pattern on shoulders/sleeves (= 13 stitches) as follows:
ROW 1 (from right side): Knit until 3 stitches before the marker 1, increase 2 stitches to SHOULDER – see description above, work A.1A (= 7 stitches), turn piece and tighten strand.
ROW 2 (from wrong side): Work A.1A, purl as far as marker 4, A.1B (= 7 stitches –you read the diagram from left to right when working from the wrong side), turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 3: Work A.1B, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, knit to 3 stitches before marker 1 and increase 2 stitches to shoulder, work A.2 (= 13 stitches), marker 2 is here, turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 4: Work A.2, purl to marker 4, work A.2 – start on row 2 in the diagram, marker 3 is here, turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 5: Work A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, knit to 3 stitches before marker 1, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, continue A.2 and increase 2 stitches to shoulder on front piece, (i.e. you work as follows after marker 2: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over), knit 1, (= 4 stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 6: Purl to marker 2 (= purl 6 stitches on front piece), continue A.2, purl to marker 4, continue A.2, purl 4 stitches on front piece (= 4 stitches past marker 3) turn the piece and tighten strand. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
ROW 7: Knit 1, increase 2 stitches to shoulder (= 4 stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, knit to 3 stitches before marker 1, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder on front piece and knit over 2 more stitches than on previous row on front piece (= 8 stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), turn the piece and tighten the strand.
ROW 8: Purl to marker 2 (= 10 purled stitches on front piece), continue A.2, purl to marker 4, continue A.2 and purl over 2 stitches more than on the previous row on front piece (= 8 stitches on front piece), turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 9: Knit to 3 stitches before the marker, increase 2 stitches to shoulder (= 8 knitted stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, knit to 3 stitches before marker 1, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder on front piece, Knit over 2 stitches more than on the previous row on front piece (= 12 stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), turn piece and tighten strand.
ROW 10: Purl to marker 2 (= 14 purled stitches on front piece), continue A.2, purl to marker 4, continue A.2 and purl over 2 stitches more than on previous row on front piece (= 12 stitches on front piece), turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 11: Knit to 3 stitches before the marker, increase 2 stitches to shoulder (= 12 knitted stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, knit to 3 stitches before marker 1, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder on front piece, knit over 2 more stitches than on the previous row on front piece (= 16 stitches + 2 yarn overs on front piece), turn the piece and tighten strand.
ROW 12: Purl to marker 2 (= 18 purled stitches on front piece), continue A.2, purl to marker 4, continue A.2 and purl over 2 stitches more than on previous row on front piece (= 16 stitches on front piece), turn piece and tighten strand.
ROW 13: Knit to 3 stitches before marker, increase 2 stitches to shoulder (= 18 stitches before next marker), continue A.2, increase 2 stitches to shoulder, knit to mid back (= start of the round). Continue with pattern but without increasing as far as marker 2. Now you have worked 11 rows of A.2. Cut the strand.

You have now increased 2 stitches to shoulder in each side of the front piece 4 times and 2 stitches to shoulder in each side of the back piece 6 times = 142-142-146-146-150-150 stitches (= 54-54-56-56-58-58 stitches on front piece and 62-62-64-64-66-66 stitches on back piece).
The short rows are now finished and you continue in the round with circular needle. Start at marker mid back.

On the next round continue the increases to shoulder (= work the increased stitches on front and back piece in stockinette stitch) and work A.2 as before, AT THE SAME TIME on round with arrow in A.2 (i.e. before the increases to shoulder are finished) start the increases to sleeve cap (= work the first 21
increased stitches knit. AT THE SAME TIME work the new stitches into A.2 as
A.2 expands outwards). When A.2 has been completed in height, repeat A.3
over A.2 to finished length.
Increase to shoulder and to sleeve cap as described below:

INCREASE TO SHOULDER AS FOLLOWS:
NOTE: You increase differently on front and back pieces and, on the rounds after increases, the yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes - Remember SHOULDER!
INCREASE ON BACK PIECE (= between markers 4 and 1):
Increase 2 stitches every 2nd round a total of 2-3-5-7-8-10 times, then increase 1 stitch every 2nd round a total of 9-11-12-14-16-18 times.
INCREASE ON FRONT PIECE (= between markers 2 and 3):
Increase 2 stitches every 2nd round a total of 6-7-9-11-12-14 times, then increase 1 stitch every 2nd round a total of 5-7-8-10-12-14 times.
After all increases to shoulder there are 88-96-108-120-130-142 stitches on both front and back pieces.

INCREASE TO SLEEVE CAP AS FOLLOWS:
On the round with an arrow in diagram A.2 start increasing to SLEEVE CAP – see description above. Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2 on every shoulder/sleeve (= 4 stitches increased on round). Increase in this way every round a total of 1-4-6-4-4-2 times and then every 2nd round a total of 25-26-28-32-34-38 times. There should always be 2 purled stitches on each side of the lace pattern A.2 on sleeves. (These purl stitches are included in the
diagram). A.2 expands outwards as diagram is worked, so that more and more
stitches are included in the lace pattern. When all increases to sleeve cap are
finished, there are 65-73-81-85-89-93 stitches on each sleeve.

After all increases to shoulder and sleeve cap there are 306-338-378-410-438-470 stitches on the needle and piece measures 31-33-35-37-38-41 cm / 12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4"-14½"-15"-16'' (measured from shoulder down). There are now 4-8-12-14-16-18 purled stitches on each side of the lace pattern (including the 2 stitches in each side of A.2/A.3).
The next round is worked as follows: Work 44-48-54-60-65-71 stitches stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 65-73-81-85-89-93 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 4 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work 88-96-108-120-130-142 stitches stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 65-73-81-85-89-93 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 4 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 44-48-54-60-65-71 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece).

BODY:
= 184-200-224-248-268-292 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Now divide the piece in the middle of the 4 new stitches under each sleeve and the front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth on circular needle to finished length.

BACK PIECE:
= 92-100-112-124-134-146 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from the division, increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased).
Increase in this way every 14th-14th-14th-14th-14th-14th row a total of 4 times in each side = 100-108-120-132-142-154 stitches. When piece measures 24-24-24-24-25-24 cm / 9½"-9½"-9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-9½'' from the division, change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 3 ridges, change back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and loosely bind off. The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from top of shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
= 92-100-112-124-134-146 stitches. Work in the same way as the back piece.

SLEEVE:
Place the 65-73-81-85-89-93 stitches from the thread in one side of the piece onto short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 69-77-85-89-93-97 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 4 new stitches mid under sleeve and allow the marker to follow your work onwards. Continue A.3 as before, knit 1 stitch on each side of the marker mid under sleeve and purl the remaining stitches on the round.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decrease when piece measures 8-8-7-7-6-6 cm / 3"-3"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 1/4"-2 1/4'' = 65-73-81-85-89-93 stitches. Continue working until piece measures 14-12-11-11-11-12 cm / 5½"-4 3/4"-4½"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4'' from the division. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 3 ridges over all stitches, change back to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams in outermost loop of outermost stitch so that the seam is flat, but stop when there is 6 cm / 2 3/8'' left in each side (= split).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.10.2017
This pattern was been re-written in full.
Updated online: 28.08.2018
Corrections have been made to sleeve cap: increased stitches are knit (previously purled) before being worked into A.2

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
= purl 2 together



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

Françoise Raaymakers 12.03.2020 - 16:48:

Wanneer ik aan de meerderingen ga beginnen voor de mouwkop voor maat xxl sluit het patroon van a2 toch niet aan? Ik krijg dan een verspringing in het patroon?

Madeleine 15.12.2019 - 20:59:

Jag har kommit till varv 4 och jag fattar inte. Jag ska sticka till markör 4 göra A2 sen är 3:e markören där? Vadå? Den har jag ju stickat förbi?

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 11:44:

Hej Madeleine, du har markör 1 i ena sidan bak i övergången mot ärmen, och du har markör 4 i andra sidan bak i övergången mot ärmen. Lycka till!

Catherine Richard 31.10.2019 - 16:28:

Bonjour, Concernant le diagramme A2. Ne faut-il pas inverser le sens de lecture des rangs endroits entre l'épaule droite et l'épaule gauche, vu qu'il y a surjet d'un côté et maille glissée rabattue de l'autre ? Cordialement

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:15:

Bonjour Mme Richard, ce point ajouré se fait bien ainsi, vous retrouvez le même motif en haut de A.2 - et de la même façon sur les 2 épaules/manches. Bon tricot!

Lisa 29.08.2019 - 23:18:

Zu meiner gerade gestellten Frage: Bilder sind auf meiner ravel ry Seite lisaknitknit

Myriam 26.07.2019 - 16:54:

Bonjour, Concernant le dos et le devant, il est mentionné de tricoter 3 mailles de bordures au point mousse. Faut- il donc tricoter les deux mailles ajoutées sous les manches plus 1 prise sur le devant et/ou le dos? Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 26.07.2019 kl. 23:41:

Bonjour Myriam, apres la separation de votre ouvrage, le devant et le dos sont travailles séparément, avec 3 mailles de chaque cote de chaque piece en point mousse (regardez la photo). Bon travail!

Sophie 16.06.2019 - 23:55:

Bonjour, lorsque le diagramme A2 s'élargit, faut il rajouter 2m envers à l'intérieur de A2 de chaque côté (soit une augmentation de 4m) en plus des augmentations à l'extérieur de A2 (1m de chaque côté ) soit une augmentation totale de 6m tous les 2 rangs ?

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 08:49:

Bonjour Sophie, pour l'arrondi des manches, on augmente 1 m avant et 1 m après chaque A.2, on va augmenter 4 m par tour pour l'arrondi des manches. En fonction de la taille, vous augmentez d'abord 1 à 6 fois tous les tours puis 25 à 38 fois tous les 2 tours. Quand A.2 va s'agrandir, on tricote comme dans le diagramme pour avoir toujours au moins 2 m env au début et à la fin de A.2. Bon tricot!

Su 16.04.2019 - 15:17:

Hallo,bei der Zunahme für die Schultern schreiben Sie das zwischen 4u1 Markierer(Rückenteil) u 2u3 Markierer zugenommen werden soll. Wo denn genau? Ist damit gemeint,dass Maschen wie in der Schulter- Zunahme 1 Masche beschrieben, zugenommen werden sollen vor jedem Markierer? Dann soll danach 1 Maschen zugenommen werden pro seite (vorder-Hinterteil)wo nehme ich diese zu ?Ich hoffe sie verstehen meine Frage :)

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 10:36:

Liebe Su, es wird zugenommen, wie unter SCHULTER beschrieben, dh zuerst 2 M zwischen den 1. und 3. Markierer und zwischen den 2. und 4. Markierer (jeweils 4 M zugenommen) und dann 1 M zwischen den 1. und 3. Markierer und zwischen den 2. und 4. Markierer (jeweils 2 M zugenommen). Viel spaß beim stricken!

Sylvana 17.03.2019 - 13:19:

Bon, entretemps, je crois avoir compris à quoi correspondent les 21 m. Ce sont les mailles de chaque côté de A3 qui doivent être tricotées à l'endroit et non à l'envers (comme indiqué dans le correctif). Ai-je bien compris ? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 10:36:

Bonjour Sylvana, les augmentations pour l'arrondi des manches se fait de chaque côté de A.2 comme expliqué précédemment - (d'abord à l'endroit puis les suivantes à l'envers). Bon tricot!

Sylvana 15.03.2019 - 18:29:

… et je ne comprends pas à quoi correspondent les "21 premières augmentations" à l'endroit et les mailles restantes à l'envers ? ARRONDI DES MANCHES: … tricoter les 21 premières augmentations à l'endroit, tricotez les mailles restantes à l'envers.

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 08:35:

Bonjour Sylvana, en fonction de la taille vous augmentez pour l'arrondi des manches 1-4-6-4-4-2 fois tous les tours et 25-26-28-32-34-38 fois tous les 2 tours, soit 26-30-34-36-38-40 fois au total, les 21 premières fois, vous tricoterez les augmentations à l'endroit, puis vous les tricoterez à l'envers jusqu'à ce qu'elles soient toutes faites. Bon tricot!

Sylvana 15.03.2019 - 16:24:

Bonjour Les augmentations pour l'arrondi manche, vous les collez à A2 ou bien vous les placez à côté du marqueur ? Merci

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 07:44:

Bonjour Sylvana! Pour l'arrondie des manches, on augmente 1 maille de chaque côté de A.2 à chaque épaule/manche (= on augmente 4 mailles). Bon tricot!

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