DROPS / 178 / 56

Center of my Heart by DROPS Design

Jumper with lace pattern, worked from middle and outwards in a square in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern as-067
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-175-175-200 g color 06, coral

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 15 stitches and 28 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

EYELET ROW:
New eyelet rows begins in the middle of 2nd round of A.2 and goes diagonally towards corner stitches with markers. All eyelet rows in A.1 and A.2 continues outwards until the entire part is finished. Diagram A.2 (= 14 rounds) is repeated vertically until part is finished (except from the neck-side). Make sure that stitches with arrow is placed directly above each other.

HOLES (sleeve):
On the sleeves there are eyelet rows towards the seam under sleeve, knit on rows with increases and increase with yarn overs = holes. On all other rows work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 2, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, knit until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 2.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches.
Repeat these 2 rows upwards.

INCREASE INFO:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over inside 2 stitches knit, on next row knit yarn over (should make holes).
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Work front piece and back piece separately as squares. Begin in the middle. Cast on and work on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 8-8-8-8-8 stitches with Brushed Alpaca Silk and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 (= 2 stitches per needle). Insert 1 marker in the first, third, fifth and seventh stitch (= 4 corner stitches with markers), move the markers upwards when working. The other four stitches are middle stitches. Work as follows: Work A.1 4 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 29-29-29-29-29 stitches between every stitch with marker in it = 120-120-120-120-120 stitches on needle.

Repeat A.2 vertically – READ EYELET ROW above. Increase 1 stitch on each side of every corner stitch as before (= 8 stitches increased in total every other round) - NOTE: Between 1st and 2nd marker (= neck side) repeat A.2, 1-1-2-2-3 more times (then work this side in garter stitch), while on the other 3 sides repeat A.2 until finished measurements.

Continue like this until there are 240-264-288-304-336 stitches on needle (= 29-32-35-37-41 increases and 59-65-71-75-83 stitches between every stitch with marker) and piece measures approx. 40-44-48-51-56 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20"-22". Stop after 1 round purl. Knit 1 round with pattern and increases as before, and slip the middle 15-15-15-17-17 stitches between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder for neck after they have been worked. Cut the yarn. Then work piece back and forth. Begin at the neck and work next round from wrong side.

Continue with GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, increases and new eyelet rows. AT THE SAME TIME bind off towards the neck as follows on every other row: Bind off at beginning of every row, 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times.
Continue increases until there are 309-333-357-387-419 stitches on needle (= 41-44-47-51-55 increases). There are now 83-89-95-103-111 stitches between every stitch with marker, 28-31-34-37-41 stitches on each shoulder). Now continue working between 3rd and 4th marker while binding off the remaining stitches as follow: Start from the wrong side at the shoulder, cast of all stitches towards 4th marker and cast of the stitch with 4th marker, knit all stitches until the 3rd marker, cast of the remaining stitches. Cut the yarn. Start from the right side, work 2 ridges back and forth over the 83-89-95-103-111 stitches, bind off. Insert a marker thread in each side, 17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4'' down from shoulder. These show where sleeves are sewn in.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as front piece until there are 240-264-288-304-336 stitches on needle (= 29-32-35-37-41 increases and 59-65-71-75-83 stitches between every marker thread). On back piece continue the same way until there are 288-312-336-368-392 stitches on needle (= 35-38-41-45-48 increases and 71-77-83-91-97 stitches between every marker thread). Stop after 1 round purl. Now knit 1 round with pattern and increases as before, and bind off middle 27-27-27-29-29 stitches between 1st and 2nd marker for neck. Work the rest of round and cut the yarn. Then work piece back and forth. Begin at the neck and work next row from wrong side. Continue with garter stitch, increases and eyelet rows as before. Continue increases until there are 309-333-357-387-419 stitches on needle (= 41-44-47-51-55 increases). There are now 83-89-95-103-111 stitches between every stitch with marker, 28-31-34-35-41 stitches on each shoulder). Now continue working between 3rd and 4th marker while binding off the remaining stitches as follow: Start from the wrong side at the shoulder, cast of all stitches towards 4th marker and cast of the stitch with 4th marker, knit all stitches until the 3rd marker, cast of the remaining stitches. Cut the yarn. Start from the right side, work 2 ridges back and forth over the 83-89-95-103-111 stitches, bind off. Insert a marker thread in each side, 17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4'' down from shoulder. These show where sleeves are sewn in.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 33-34-35-36-39 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges. Continue in garter stitch and with HOLES – see explanation above. When piece measures 3-4-4-2-4 cm / 1"-1½"-1½"-3/4"-1½", increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE INFO. Repeat increase every 3-2½-2-2-1½ cm / 1"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" 9-10-11-12-12 more times = 53-56-59-62-65 stitches. Bind off when piece measures 32-31-30-28-26 cm / 12½"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11"-10 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves, down to markers on front/back piece. Sew underarm seams and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch, stop when 9 cm / 3½'' remain = vents.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 66 to 74 sts (including stitches on stitch holder) on a short circular needle around the neck. Work 2 ridges in the round and bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit yarn over
= middle stitch between 2 markers
= garter stitch with marker in it


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-56) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Teresa 24.01.2019 - 01:30:

Me encantaría poder hacer esta prenda pero las instrucciones son extremadamente complejas y temo empezar para no poder terminar. No entiendo como se hace el primer cuadrado de partida con 8-8-8-8-8 yo entiendo que solo son 4 grupos de 8, no 5 y por otra parte la 5ª aguja se usa para tricotar los puntos de las otras 4 no?

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 15:21:

Hola Teresa. Todos los patrones de Drops están escritos para las tallas S-XXL. Cuando hay números seguidos como en tu caso ( 8-8-8-8-8 ) significa, que para la talla S hay que montar 8 puntos, para la talla M - 8 puntos etc. Después estos 8 puntos se reparten en 4 agujas para trabajar. Si solo hay un número es porque es el mismo para todas las tallas.

Britt Dagkvist 06.10.2018 - 13:54:

Jag har köpt garn till denna tröja. Förstår inte riktigt hur jag stickar den. Skall börja med strumpstickor. Sen när det gäller mönstret, skall man bara räkna detta från rätsidan?

DROPS Design 09.10.2018 kl. 09:41:

Hej Britt, du stickar framstycket från mitten och ut, dvs att du bara stickar från rätsidan. Du stickar och ökar enligt A.1. Diagram A.1 stickas 4 ggr på varje varv. Lycka till :)

Nataliya 26.04.2018 - 20:07:

Hvordan kan man sjekke ferdig mål når alt er på rundpinner i en slag av lomme? Man får ikke å strekke arbeidet for å måle. Det var en kommentar. Sporsmål: jeg er nesten ferdig med forstykket og forstår ikke hvordan å felle?Hva er delen som skal strikkes 2 pinner til? Hvorfor?

Marie Mamieflo 07.03.2018 - 17:09:

Merci beaucoup J'ai réessayé avec une autre laine et là ça va tout seul. Mais avec cette laine Brushed Alpaca Silk très fine et poilue, ce n'est vraiment pas facile . je vais m'y remettre à nouveau, mais...

Marie 06.03.2018 - 21:18:

Je n'y arrive pas . J'ai compris le montage, compris le diagramme mais cela fait quatre fois que je recommence et pour moi c'est impossible avec ces 4 aiguilles , pourtant je tricote beaucoup de chaussettes, robes pulls adultes enfants bébés mais là, j'abandonne , que faire de mes deux manches, de la laine ?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Marie, vous pouvez essayer avec la technique du magic loop, certaines la préfère aux 4 aiguilles. Le début peut paraître un peu complexe, mais ça vaut le coup de s'y attacher. Cette vidéo montre le début d'un carré d'un autre modèle et pourra peut-être vous aider à avancer. N'hésitez pas à vous adresser à votre magasin, il pourra fort probablement vous aider. Bon tricot!

Marie 02.03.2018 - 21:59:

J'ai tricoté les deux manches mais pour le devant je ne comprends pas cela ne se tricote pas en rond ? mais en aller et retour j'ai essayé deux fois, c'est difficile le démarrage. J'ai tout défait, j'ai besoin d'aide. Merci

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 08:15:

Bonjour Marie, le devant se tricote en rond à partir du milieu du motif, on va d'abord tricoter un carré (=4 x A.1) puis A.2. Quand le carré aura la bonne taille, on va glisser en attente les mailles de l'encolure et continuer en allers et retours à partir de l'encolure. Bon tricot!

Irina P 05.02.2018 - 11:24:

Verstehe! Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! Der Pulli wird echt schön wrden. Stricke mit original Wolle in der gleichen Farbe. DANKE

Irina.P 05.02.2018 - 01:04:

Hallo liebe Federica, habe Vorder-und Rückenteil fertig gestrickt, nun sind die Ärmel dran, aber , ich verstehe nicht wie die Lochstreifen verlaufen sollen. Leider kann man es auch auf dem Foto nicht siehen, Sind es zwei Streifen insgesamt ?

DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 10:36:

Liebe Irina, mitte unter der Ärmel wird man Maschen zunehmen - siehe ZUNAHMEINFO, damit es immer Löcher mitte unter der Ärmel gibt, wird man stricken wie unter LOCHSTREIFEN (Ärmel) beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Monica 22.12.2017 - 05:19:

Ho notato che sono state apportate delle correzioni al testo del pattern che io ho stampato tempo addietro. Mi potete indicare quali sono le modifiche?

DROPS Design 24.12.2017 kl. 11:26:

Buongiorno Monica. Le modifiche sono modifiche di terminologia e sono davvero molto limitate. Non sono state modificate misure o numero delle maglie. Buon lavoro!

Monica 22.12.2017 - 04:58:

Buongiorno nelle istituzioni per il davanti è indicato di ripetere A2 per 2 volte in totale nella parte fra il 1 e 2 marker, e poi continuare a legaccio, dalla foto sembrerebbe che A2 venga invece ripetuto una volta soltanto nella parte destinata allo scollo, vorrei un chiarimento, grazie

DROPS Design 24.12.2017 kl. 11:25:

Buongiorno Monica. Dalla fotografia sembra corretto come dice lei. Chiederemo una verifica alla casa madre. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 178-56

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.