DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted jacket worked in a circle with leaf pattern in DROPS Alpaca. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 175-14
DROPS design: Pattern no z-779
Yarn group A
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400 g color 2917, turquoise

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes - work increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

Work jacket in the round from middle of motif (back), then back and forth in each side. Work sleeves separately and sew them in when finished.

Cast on 7 stitches with Alpaca and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work according to A.1 (= 7 repetitions of A.1 on round). Insert a marker thread at beginning of round. Work until round marked with arrow for desired size. There are now 273 stitches on needle. Make armholes as follows: Work the first 58 stitches on needle (= 1½ repetition), bind off the next 39-46-53 stitches, work the next 117-103-89 stitches, bind off the next 39-46-53 stitches, work the last 20 stitches. On next round cast on 39-46-53 new stitches over the bind off stitches = 273 stitches in all sizes. Finish A.1.

When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1X above A.1. Every time A.1X is worked vertically, 6 stitches have been increased on each side of A.1X, work the new stitches as the outermost stitches in A.1X. Work A.1X 2-3-4 times in total vertically (84 stitches increase every time A.1X is worked) = 441-525-609 stitches.

Then work as follows: Slip the first 63-75-87 stitches on a stitch holder (= 1 repetition), keep the next 153-187-217 stitches on needle, slip the rest of stitches on a stitch holder. Now work back and forth over all stitches on needle. Work A.2 directly over leaves in A.1X and GARTER STITCH between leaves as before - see explanation above. At the end of every row slip the last 2 stitch on to stitch holder (do not work them, turn). Continue until 41-75-49 stitches remain on the needle (A.2 has now been worked 2-2-3 times vertically). Slip the last 41-75-49 stitches on stitch holder.

Slip the last 153-187-217 stitches on round back on needle, and work as left front piece over these stitches.

Then knit all stitches from stitch holders from right side back onto circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, pick up stitches between the 2 and 2 stitches that were put on holders in each side as follows: Pick up the strand between 2 stitches, twist the strand and place in on the right hand needle (i.e. between 2 and 2 stitches 1 stitch is increased and holes in transitions are avoided) = 553-637-777 stitches. Work 3 ridges over all stitches and loosely bind off.

Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 46-50-56 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Work A.3 over all stitches. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stockinette stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 6-10-4 cm / 2½"-4"-1½"", increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 3-2-2 cm / 1"-¾"-¾" 15-21-25 times in total = 76-92-106 stitches. When sleeve measures approx. 55-56-56 cm / 21½"-22"-22", loosely bind off. Make another sleeve the same way.

Sew in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.02.2017
Diagram A.3 has been updated


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit or purl yarn over to make holes
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit or purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (108)

country flag Chantal Regtop wrote:

Voor de mouwen moet je 46-50-56 steken opzetten en dan A3 breien, maar voor A3 moet je aantal steken deelbaar zijn door 6, dus volgens mij zou je dan dus 42-48-54 steken op moeten zetten (of als 42 steken te weinig is, 48-54-60) Met vriendelijke groet, Chantal Regtop

21.05.2024 - 05:35

country flag Sibylle wrote:

Hallo. Stricke ich die Runde auf die der Pfeil zeigt für die gewünschte Größe noch mit oder höre ich mit der Runde unter dem Pfeil auf und kette ab? Vielen Dank für eine Antwort.

08.05.2024 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sybille, für die Ärmel werden Sie die Maschen (Armloch) abketten bei der Runde nach der mit dem Pfeil, bei der nächsten Runde schlagen Sie die neuen Maschen über die abgekettenen Maschen an und stricken Sie wie im Diagram weiter. Wenn A.1 fertig ist, dann wird das Muster wiederholt, wie im A.1x gezeigt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

08.05.2024 - 13:15

country flag Anne wrote:

Hallo liebes Strick-Team, ich möchte für die Kreisjacke ein Garn mit einem schönen Farbverlauf verwenden. Spricht etwas dagegen, nach den Löchern für die Ärmel im Kreis weiterzuarbeiten? Wenn ich in Reihen stricken würde, ginge der Effekt des Garns verloren. Herzliche Grüße und vielen Dank Anne

07.07.2023 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, die Jacke ist kein echter Kreis, siehe Maßskizze, wenn der Kreis fertig ist, wird man jede Seite separat stricken, so entsehen die Vorderteile. Wenn Sie ein Garn mit einem Farbverlauf benutzen, können Sie mal versuchen, die Vorderteile mit der selben Farben zu beginnen, so sollten sie ähnlich sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.07.2023 - 09:24

country flag Piera wrote:

Buongiorno, grazie per la risposta precedente. Quindi lavorando A2 sui ferri avanti e indietro le maglie a rovescio sui ferri pari andranno a formare una maglia rasata. In questo modo il motivo a foglia risulta diverso dai precedenti lavorati in tondo. É corretto? Grazie

14.03.2023 - 07:09

country flag Piera wrote:

Buongiorno, il diagramma A2 va iniziato a lavorare sul diritto o sul rovescio del lavoro? Grazie

13.03.2023 - 13:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Piera, può iniziare A.2 sul diritto del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

13.03.2023 - 20:17

country flag Margaret wrote:

The final look of the sleeve . Does it look stocking stitch or garter stitch

21.11.2022 - 01:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Margaret, The sleeves are worked in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

21.11.2022 - 06:46

country flag Lucille wrote:

J’aimerais faire une manche 3/4, combien de mailles je dois monter et combien d’augmentations? Je fais la taille L et XL. Merci

01.07.2022 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucille, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Merci pour votre compréhension. Toutefois, vous trouverez ici nos modèles de gilets et vestes à manches 3/4 qui pourront probablement vous inspirer. Bon tricot!

04.07.2022 - 07:39

country flag Lucille wrote:

Pour la bordure du chandail, c’est bien en aller retour pour les 3 côtes mousse? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide, j’apprécie

31.05.2022 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucille, les 3 côtes mousse tricotées tout autour du gilet à la fin (après les deux devants), se tricotent en rond, c'est la bordure finale du gilet. Bon tricot!

01.06.2022 - 08:17

country flag Lucille wrote:

Elever les mailles entre les 2 mailles placées en attente de chaque côté ainsi: relever le fil entre 2 mailles et le placer torse sur l'aiguille droite pour éviter un trou aux transitions (c'est-à-dire entre chaque 2ème maille, on augmente 1 maille et on évite un trou transitions) = environ 553-637-777 mailles. Je ne comprends pas

29.05.2022 - 02:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucille, lorsque vous avez tricoté les rangs raccourcis des devants, vous avez automatiquement un décalage dû à ces rangs raccourcis, pour éviter un trou à ces endroits-là, vous devez relever le fil horizontal entre 2 mailles et le placer torse (sans le tricoter) sur l'aiguille droite, autrement dit, vous augmentez et "comblez" ainsi les trous aux transitions des rangs raccourcis. Bon tricot!

30.05.2022 - 08:27

country flag Helena Košíková wrote:

Při pletení průramků mi nevychází sekvence na střed. Nemelo by být rozdělení očí jinak? 58 upletu, 46 uzavřít, 65 upletu 46 uzavřít a upletu 58 ok???

22.05.2022 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Heleno! Při pletení průramků se vzorem nijak nehýbeme, pokračujeme v jeho dosavadním rozložení. (Paprsek vzoru nevychází na střed průramku, ale směřuje do podpaží - viz foto.) Průramky začneme uzavírat v místě, které je ve schématu označené šipkou pro danou velikost. Uvedené počty ok by měly odpovídat rozmístění - pokud upletete mezi průramky jen 65 ok, bude díl zdeformovaný. Hodně zdaru! Hana

23.05.2022 - 08:49