DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sweet Ivy Leaves

Knitted jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in DROPS Flora. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 175-25
DROPS design: Pattern no fl-007
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 16, pistachio

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16" + 32") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically. 1 repetition of A.1 measures approx. 9-9-9-12-12-12 cm / 3½"-3½"-3½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" in width.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for edges in garter stitch.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING INFO:
Because of the pattern in A.1 number of stitches on needle will vary. Where number of stitches is given in pattern the numbers are given without increases in pattern (i.e. with number of stitches A.1/A.2 have at the beginning of 1 repetition vertically).

SHORT ROWS:
To avoid the bands from contracting vertically work short rows over band in each side as follows:
* Knit 2 rows back and forth only over the outermost 10-10-12-12-14-14 band stitches in one side of piece (or over as many stitches as there are in band after increase for shawl collar), work 1 row over all stitches on needle, turn piece and knit 2 row back and forth over the 10-10-12-12-14-14 band stitches in the other side of piece *, repeat from *-* every 4 cm / 1½'' until finished measurements.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side.
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is between the 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck at the front):
All decreases are done from the right side.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE (= after A.2): Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
LEFT FRONT PIECE (= 2 stitches before A.1): Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
All increases are done from the right side. Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to shawl collar):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over needle inside the 2 outermost stitches in each side towards mid front. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonhole at the edge on right band when piece measures 4, 10, 16 and 22 cm / 1½"-4"-6 1/4"-8 3/4" in all sizes. 1 buttonhole = begin from wrong side and work until 1 stitch remains on needle towards mid front, make 2 yarn overs and knit last stitch. Turn piece, knit first stitch together with the first yarn over, knit the second yarn over together with next stitch, then continue as before.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 215-235-255-279-311-339 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Flora. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work next row from right side as follows: 10-10-12-12-14-14 band stiches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 21-21-21-28-28-28 stitches), A.2 (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches), 26-31-34-32-38-45 stitches in stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), 16-21-26-21-29-36 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 over the next 63-63-63-84-84-84 stitches (= 3 repetitions of 21-21-21-28-28-28 stitches), A.2 (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches), 16-21-26-21-29-36 stitches in stockinettet, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), 26-31-34-32-38-45 stitches in stockinette, A.1 (= 21-21-21-28-28-28 stitches), A.2 (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches) and finish with 10-10-12-12-14-14 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

BAND: When piece measures 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm / 1"-1"-1"-1"-1½"-1½", work SHORT ROWS over band in each side - see explanation above.
BUTTONHOLES: When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', work BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
DECREASE IN THE SIDES: When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 5 cm / 2'' 3 times in total in each side = 203-223-243-267-299-327 stitches.
INCREASE IN THE SIDES: When piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'' in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2-2-3-3-4-4 cm / ¾''-¾''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''1½''-1½'' 5-5-5-5-4-4 times in total in each side.
NECK: When piece measures 23 cm / 9'' in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch for V-neck inside A.1 and A.2 on each front piece – READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 8th-8th-10th-10th-10th-10th row 11-11-10-10-9-9 times in total in each side.
SHAWL COLLAR: When piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' in all sizes, increase 1 stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 12-13-13-14-14-15 times in total and then every 6th row 2 times in total in all sizes.
ARMHOLES: When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm / 13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾'', bind off 6 stitches for armholes in each side (3 stitches on each side of both markers). Then finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 95-105-115-127-141-155 stitches. Continue pattern as before and bind off for armholes at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: 3 stitches 0-0-1-1-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-3-4-4-5-6 times = 89-91-93-101-103-109 stitches – READ KNITTING INFO. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'', bind off the middle 17-17-17-25-25-25 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with stockinette stitch and pattern and bind off 2 stitches on next row from neck = 34-35-36-36-37-40 stitches remain on shoulder (22-22-22-29-29-29 stitches pattern and 12-13-14-7-8-11 stitches stockinette stitch. Bind off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''. Work the other shoulder the same way.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with decrease for neck and increase for shawl collar as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole in the side the same way as on back piece. After all increases and decreases, there are 58-60-62-67-69-73 stitches on needle. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', bind off the outermost 34-35-36-36-37-40 stitches on shoulder = 24-25-27-28-30-31 stitches remain on needle for shawl collar. Work the rest of row. Then work short rows over shawl collar as follows (begin from wrong side): * 1 ridge back and forth over the outermost 14-15-15-16-16-17 stitches towards mid front, 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 6-6-6-8-8-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-3"-3"-3" on the shortest (measures from shoulder). Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue the same way as on left front piece but with increases and decreases in the opposite side.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 48-50-52-56-58-60 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Flora. Work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', insert 1 marker - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue in garter stitch for 4 cm / 1½'' (piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' in total). Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 8-5-6-5-7-5 cm / 3"-2"-2½"-2"-2 3/4"-2", increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 2½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" 15-17-19-21-24-25 times in total = 78-84-90-98-106-110 stitches. When piece measures 47-47-46-46-45-43 cm / 18½''-18½''-18''-18''-17¾''-17'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 6 stitches mid under sleeve (3 stitches on each side of marker). Then work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Work stockinette stitch and bind off at beginning of row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 3-3-4-4-5-6 times and 1 stitch 5-6-6-6-7-8 times, then bind off 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-55-55-55 cm / 21 1/4"-21½"-21½"-21½"-21½"-21½" before binding off 3 stitches 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 55-56-56-56-56-56 cm / 21½"-22"-22"-22"-22"-22" from the top
and down to marker (59-60-60-60-60-60 cm / 23 1/4"-23½"-23½"-23½"-23½"-23½" from top and down to cast-on edge). Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Fold up half the edge in garter stitch at the bottom of sleeves and fasten with a couple of stitches mid under sleeve. Sew collar tog mid back (seam mid back should be inwards when collar is folded). Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next row knit yarn over (1 stitch increased)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn over on needle, on next row knit one yarn over and knit the other yarn over twisted (= 2 stitches increased)
symbols = knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn over
symbols = * slip 1 stitch knitwise, drop 2 yarn overs off the needle *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, make 1 yarn over, insert left needle from left to right through the 7 loose stitches on right needle, pull yarn over through these 7 stitches with right needle, slip drop stitches off left needle, * slip 1 stitch knitwise, drop 2 yarn overs off the needle *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, knit 1, insert left needle from left to right through these 8 stitches, put stitches back on left needle, knit 8 stitches together (from left to right), then lift second stitch on right needle over first stitch (= 1 stitch remains)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Berbett wrote:

Bonjour, Les boutonnières sur photos ressemblent à des arceaux ajoutés sur le bord que je trouve jolis mais comment faire ? puisque les explications de ce modèle sont donnés avec une ouverture classique que je souhaite éviter. Merci d'avance.

06.11.2022 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Berbett, nous avons effectivement modifié les boutonnières suite à de nombreux retours de clientes qui préfèrent avoir de vraies boutonnières, mais vous pouvez tout à fait les faire ainsi en crochetant quelques mailles en l'air (correspondant à la taille des boutons), sautez 1 ou 2 côtes mousse de la bordure et attachez avec 1 mc. Bon tricot!

18.11.2022 - 11:53

country flag Marcia wrote:

Hi. For the shawl collar, the pattern says "Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side)". I don't understand this because every other row means every 2nd row, not every 4th row. I understand how to make the yarn over on each side on the RS and then work the yarn overs twisted on the WS. That makes 2 rows. Do I work another 2 rows before I increase again?

11.01.2021 - 05:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marcia, you have to increase on on every other 4th row (= increase on next RS row, work 3 rows = 1 row from WS, 1 row from RS, 1 row from WS) - this means the same as on every other row from RS (= increase on next row from RS, do not increase on next row from RS and repeat). Hope that helps. Happy knitting!

11.01.2021 - 10:43

country flag Vera wrote:

Ik heb een probleem met minderen voor de hals. Volgens het patroon moet je minderen na de 2 steken voor het ivy patroon maar dan ga je minderen in het patroon zelf???

13.01.2019 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Vera,

Op het rechter voorpand (dus het rechter voorpand als je het draagt) minder je ná A.2 en dit is dus in het tricotsteek gedeelte. Op het linker voorpand minder je ook in het tricotsteekgedeelte. (zie TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN-2 voor hoe je de minderingen maakt op het linker/rechter voorpand).

23.01.2019 - 11:33

country flag Ma wrote:

Hoi, Ik heb t vestje gemaakt maar in tegenstelling tot eerder vesten valt t vrij klein. Loopt t nog uit door t patroon of kan ik t beter in n maat groter gaan maken?

12.08.2018 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ma, Het vest zou met dit garen, gewoon in model moeten blijven dus het loopt niet uit door het patroon. Je kunt de stekenverhouding aanhouden en kijken naar de maattabel voor de juiste maat/afmetingen. Vergelijk de afmetingen in de maattekening eventueel met een bestaand kledingstuk dat je goed past. Succes!

14.08.2018 - 10:28

country flag Marieke Schoutsen wrote:

Goedemiddag, Het lukt mij niet het knoopsgat te maken. Ik kan helaas geen filmpje vinden. Ik brei tot de voorlaatste steek maak de 2 omslagen brei de laatste steek. Na het keren brei ik de omslagen samen met de andere steken en vervolg mijn naald, maar er onstaat geen knoopsgat? Wat doe ik verkeerd?

21.03.2018 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Marieke, Zoals je het beschrijft doe je het goed en zou er wel een knoopsgat moeten ontstaan, dus de eerste steek recht samen breien met de eerste omslag en dan de volgende omslag recht samen breien met de volgende steek. Helaas kan ik vanaf hier niet meekijken, maar je kunt evt. ook altijd hulp vragen bij de winkel waar je het garen hebt gekocht

21.03.2018 - 21:00

Fiona wrote:

I am a bit confused about the length of the sleeves. I am making size xl. If I measure from the 4cm marker, garter 4cm, stocking stitch 5cm,then increase 2 stitches every 2cm 21 times that makes 51cm ... but the instructions say to work until piece measures 46cm before decreasing for the sleeve cap. Are the measurements correct?

11.03.2018 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fiona, starting the inc mid under sleeve when piece measures 5 cm (= 4 cm garter st + 1 cm stocking st) you will dec at the fisrt time at 5 cm, then at 7 cm, ... and the last inc will be worked when piece measures 45 cm. Happy knitting!

12.03.2018 - 10:14

DROPS Design wrote:

There is now a new video showing how to work A.1 and A.2. Happy knitting!

08.05.2017 - 16:03

Lynette Stakenburg wrote:

Good morning/afternoon I would like to know if there is a written pattern for the sweet ivy leaves cardigan. Thank you Lynette Stakenburg

03.05.2017 - 05:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynette, for the lace pattern in the Sweet Ivy Leaves cardigan you have to follow the charts. Beside the charts there are explanations for the symbols, and everything else is witten out. I hope this helps. Happy knitting!

06.05.2017 - 10:57

country flag Anja wrote:

Nach 23cm kommen die Anbnahmen für den Halsauschnitt. Werden diese nicht in den Blendenmaschen vorgenommen, vor dem Mustersatz? In der Anleitung werden die Abnahmen nach dem Mustersatz abgenommen, das wäre ja fast unterm Arm. Bitte um Überprüfung.

15.04.2017 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, die Abnahmen für den Halsausschnitt sind im Glatt-rechts Teil gestrickt, siehe ABNAHMETIPP-2 (gilt für den Halsausschnitt vorne). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.04.2017 - 10:43

country flag Anja wrote:

Ich habe nun in den glatt rechts gestrickten Reihe eine Höhe von 14cm. Bei der Blende habe ich laut Anleitung bis jetzt 3x verkürzte Reihen eingearbeitet, aber sie hat nur eine Höhe von 11,8cm. Soll ich mehr verkürzte Reihen stricken oder gibt sich das, wenn die Jacke fertig ist?

31.03.2017 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, gerne können Sie die Höhe der verkürkzten Reihen anpassen, damit die Blende nicht zusammenzieht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.03.2017 - 13:38