DROPS / 172 / 29

Snow Angel by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat, scarf and wrist warmers with lace pattern in "BabyMerino". Size S - L

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-028
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21 1/4''/22'' - 22''/22 3/4''
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50-100 g color no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). 1 repetition of pattern according to diagram A.1 measures approx. 4½ cm / 4 3/4" in width and 4½ cm / 1 3/4'' vertically.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 – for rib.

SCARF:
Measurements: approx. 35 x 160 cm / 13 3/4" x 63''
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
250 g color no 02, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 – for rib

WRIST WARMER:
Size: S/M - M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 21-23 cm / 8 1/4"-9'' (with a light pull) Length: approx. 22-24 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for both sizes in color no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 – for rib

FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
350 g for both sizes in color no 02, off white

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HAT:

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle bottom up, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 120-126 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 for 2½-3½ cm / 7/8"-1 1/4''. K 1 round while inc 10-14 sts evenly (i.e. inc 1 st after every 12th-9th st) - READ INCREASE TIP = 130-140 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 13-14 repetitions of 10 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked 4 times in total vertically, work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 AT THE SAME TIME dec as shown in diagram. When A.2 has been worked, 26-28 sts remain on needle. K 1 round while K all sts tog two by two = 13-14 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Entire hat measures approx. 25-26 cm / 9 3/4"-10 1/4'' from top and down.
----------------------------------------------------------

SCARF:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 and A.1. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - NOTE: Do not inc over the 3 edge sts in each side.
----------------------------------------------------------

SCARF:
Piece is worked back and forth on circular needle in two equal parts and sewn tog in the middle.
Cast on 203 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Baby Merino. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain on needle and finish with K 1 and 3 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec all 3 P (seen from RS) to 2 P = 154 sts. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec every other 2 P to 1 P = 130 sts. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec the remaining 2 P to 1 P = 105 sts. When rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' (adjust so that last row is worked from WS), switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.3 until 4 sts remain (= 7 repetitions of 14 sts), work 1 st in stockinette st and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.3 has been worked, 77 sts remain on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 4 sts remain (= 7 repetitions of 10 sts) and finish with 1 st in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures approx. 79 cm / 31'' (finish after one whole repetition of A.1 vertically), switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. K 1 row from RS while inc 7 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 84 sts. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before LOOSELY binding off with K from RS.
Knit another part the same way. Sew the two parts inside bind-off edge so that there are 4 ridges in the middle of scarf.
----------------------------------------------------------

WRIST WARMERS:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 75-84 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 2. When rib measures 1-2 cm / ½"-3/4'', dec every other 2 P to 1 P = 63-70 sts. When rib measures 2-3 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8", dec the remaining 2 P to 1 P = 50-56 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5, work next round as follows: Work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the first 30 sts (= 3 repetitions of 10 sts), * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 10-13 times in total. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures approx. 20-21 cm / 8"-8 1/4"'' (finish after one whole repetition of A.1 vertically), switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. K 1 round while inc 12 sts evenly = 62-68 sts. Work rib in the round = K 1/P 1 for 2-3 cm / 3/4"-3 1/8", bind off with K over K and P over P. Entire wrist warmer measures approx. 22-24 cm / 8 3/4"-9½''.
Knit another wrist warmer the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Berbett 08.12.2020 - 19:49:

Bonjour, Merci d'avance pour votre aide concernant l'écharpe : quelle méthode est utilisée pour coudre les 2 parties ensemble. Concernant le bonnet quelle méthode pour faire les diminutions des bords du diagrammes A2 ? Cordialement. PIa.

DROPS Design 09.12.2020 kl. 06:54:

Bonjour Pia, cette vidéo montre comment réaliser 2 coutures différentes pour assembler 2 pièces entre elles, le dessous des manches dans la vidéo, ou bien les 2 parties de l'écharpe ici. Dans A.2, on diminue les 2 mailles au milieu (cf dernier symbole légende), et, comme on ne fait pas de jeté, on va automatiquement diminuer 2 mailles. Bon tricot!

Dana Schoales 03.10.2020 - 03:26:

I am knitting Snow Angel hat. Trouble with chart A.2, row 8. There is a decrease at both beginning and end of this row on chart. Does it mean knit 2 tog, knit 6, knit 2 tog repeat to end? That is how I read it but I have extra stitches at the end. Could you please clarify

DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 08:54:

Dear Mrs Schoales, after row 6 you have still 10 sts on the needle, then you will work row 7 decreasing 2 stitches (= knit 4, slip 1 as if to K, K2 tog, psso, K3) = 8 sts remain. On row 8 knit the 8 sts. Repeat decrase on next round: K3, dec 2, K2 = 6 sts remain. knit all sts on next round and continue like this decreasing 2 sts in the middle of each repeat until 2 sts remain in each repeat. Happy knitting!

Anette Nielsen 10.09.2020 - 13:14:

Hej Jeg er i gang med halstørklædet og er i færd med A3 som starter med 14 m.....som jeg forstår det skal dette motiv strikkes flere gange i højden men mønsteret slutter med 10 masker, så hvordan kommer jeg videre til 14 m igen? Har jeg misforstået det? Mvh Anette

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 08:31:

Hei Anette. A.3 skal bare strikkes 1 gang i høyden og det sluttes da med 10 masker, nå skal du strikke etter A.1 + kantmaskene. Det er A.1 som skal gjentas i høyden til arbeidet måler ca 79 cm. God Fornøyelse!

Claudia 27.09.2019 - 11:33:

Buongiorno,volevo approfittare dell'offerta sui filati e regalarmi questo bel set. non conosco i ferri circolari, capisco l'uso per il cappello che cosi' evita cuciture , ma per la sciarpa perche' non posso usare dei ferri normali visto che unisco poi le due parti? grazie

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 12:18:

Buongiorno Claudia. I ferri circolari sono molto diffusi nei paesi europei e si stanno diffondendo anche in Italia: Sono comodi per lavorazioni in tondo, per scialli (per avere più spazio per le maglie). Le lavorazioni in ferri di andata e ritorno (come p.es la sciarpa) possono essere eseguite con i normali ferri dritti. In questi casi, la scelta di ferri dritti o circolari è spesso soggettiva, legata quindi a come ci si trova più comodi a lavorare. Buon lavoro!

Dea 10.04.2019 - 21:02:

Ho lavorato il cappello ed ho notato che dopo il giro con aumenti dice di fare subito il motivo del diagramma. Facendo ciò ci sarebbero dei problemi perchè non si potrebbero chiudere nel modo giusto i gettati fatti nel giro di aumenti. Credo che prima di iniziare il motivo A1 ci voglia un giro a diritto per poter lavorare i gettati a ritorto come indicato nella spiegazione degli aumenti.

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 00:16:

Buongiorno Dea. Inoltriamo la sua osservazione al settore design. Buon lavoro!

Valentina 18.01.2019 - 09:57:

Bonjour Madame Drops, Je viens de terminer ce modèle mais le dessin ne se voit pas sauf en tirant d où ma question faut il le bloquer et/ou le repasser à la patte mouille. Merci pour votre réponse.

Jennie 29.08.2018 - 12:12:

Jag har det perfekta garnet till halsduken och ska nog testa det här mönstret. det är så fint! Är lite över nybörjarstadiet och läser mönstret NOGA för att bestämma om detta är nåt för mig. Vad menas med "När A.3 är färdigstickat är det 77 m kvar på v"? Vad ska hända på övriga 77 m?

DROPS Design 29.08.2018 kl. 15:47:

Hej Jennie, Det betyder att du har minskat till 77 maskor samtidigt som du har stickat A.3. Nu föjer du mönstret med: Nästa varv stickas så här från rätsidan..... Det är enklare att följa mönstret samtidigt som du stickar det. :) Lycka till!

Valérie 13.07.2017 - 15:55:

Merci de votre réponse mais le tricot se faisant en rond, le rang de montage est donc forcément du bon côté. D'où pourquoi un rang endroit avant les côtés ?

DROPS Design 13.07.2017 kl. 16:41:

Bonjour Valérie, j'étais partie sur les explications de l'écharpe, ce rang envers sur l'envers ou endroit sur l'endroit (quand on tricote en rond) est souvent fait après le montage, c'est un choix de la styliste, dans ce cas, les 3 pièces de l'ensemble commenceront ainsi de la même façon. Bon tricot!

Valérie 13.07.2017 - 10:18:

Bonjour. A quoi cela sert-t-il de faire 1 rang endroit entre le rang de montage et les côtes ? Merci.

DROPS Design 13.07.2017 kl. 12:03:

Bonjour Valérie, le rang de montage va apparaître ainsi du côté souhaité. Bon tricot!

Carine 07.12.2016 - 16:38:

Bonjour est-il possible de tricoter le bonnet à plat s'il vous plaît?

DROPS Design 08.12.2016 kl. 08:41:

Bonjour Carine, c'est tout à fait possible, vous trouverez ici quelques explications complémentaires. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 172-29

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.