DROPS / 68 / 23

Beach Mermaid by DROPS Design

DROPS Dress in Muskat

Sizes: S - M - L
Finished measurements:
Bust: 74-84-94 cm [29 1/8" - 33" - 37"]
Hips: 92-104-118 cm [36.25" - 41" - 46.5"]
Hem: 110-126-140 cm [43.25" - 49 5/8" - 55 1/8"]

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
250-300-300 g. col. no. 28, terracotta.
100-100-100 g. col. no. 38, dark plum.
50-100-100 g. col. no. 49, dark orange.
50-100-100 g. col. no. 23, beige.
50-100-100 g. col. no. 22, dark brown.
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 35, dark mustard.
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 32, turquoise.
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 08, natural.

Some colors have expired, then these colors can be used (see also the close-up picture):
250-300-300 g. col. no. 79, wine (instead of col. no. 28, terracotta).
50-100-100 g. col. no. 09, light brown (instead of col. no. 22, dark brown).
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 51, light orange (instead of col. no. 35, dark mustard).

DROPS 3 mm [US 2], 3.5 mm [US 4] and 4 mm [US 6] circular needles

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on mid-size needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].
23 sts x 40 rows on smallest needles in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side.
The chart marked «Diag. A.1a and A.1b" indicates the stripe pattern.
The other chart is for the zig-zag pattern and has lines marked «M.1", «M.2", etc. These are the Pattern numbers referred to in the instructions: «M.» is the abbreviation for «Pattern» in Norwegian. The alternate lines marked with an arrow and a number are the decrease rows – decs are made on the 2nd row of each.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter st, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl.* Repeat from * - *.

Knitting tips-1 (for back of yoke):
All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st inside 1 edge st as follows:
After edge st: K 2 tog.
Before edge st: sl 1, K 1, psso.

Knitting tips-2 (for front of yoke):
All decs are made on right side rows.
Dec 2 sts on the row as follows: K 1, K 3 tog, then knit across until the st before the marker, yo, K the st before the marker, sl marker, yo, knit across row until 4 sts remain, then knit as follows: Sl 1, K 2 tog, psso, K 1.
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DRESS
The dress is worked in the round from the bottom edge and up.
Read the entire Pattern instructions above before beginning.
Cast on 252-288-324 sts loosely on larger circular needles with terracotta. Work 2 rows of Pattern 1 in garter st.
Change to smaller circular needles and stockinette st.
Continue to work Pattern 1 with color changes as indicated in Diag. A.1a and A.1b.
When the piece measures 28 cm [11"] start Dec 1. 14-16-18 sts are decreased each dec row. After Dec. 1 = 238-272-306 sts remain, work Pattern 2.
When the piece measures 33 cm [13"] start Dec. 2 = 224-256-288 sts remain, then work Pattern 3.
When the piece measures 38 cm [14 7/8"] start Dec. 3 = 210-240-270 sts remain, then work Pattern 4.
When the piece measures 42 cm [16.5"] start Dec. 4 = 196-224-252 sts remain, then work Pattern 5.
When the piece measures 47 cm [18.5"] start Dec. 5 = 182-208-234 sts remain, then knit Pattern 6.
When the piece measures 53 cm [20 7/8"] start Dec. 6 = 168-192-216 sts, then work Pattern 7.

When the piece measures 65-66-67 cm [25 5/8" - 26" - 26 3/8"] change to smallest circular needles and terracotta and work in garter st. Measure the piece from here.
When the garter st portion measures 11-12-12 cm [4.25" - 4.75" - 4.75"], work the next row as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, 86-98-110 sts for the front, bind off 7 sts for armhole, 68-80-92 sts for the back, bind off 4 sts for armhole.
Work each side separately.

Back:
= 68-80-92 sts. Dec 1 st for each armhole every other row 7-10-14 times - see knitting tips-1 = 54-60-64 sts, bind off.

Front:
= 86-98-110 sts. Put 43-49-55 sts at one side on a st holder.

1st strap:
Mark the center st of the 43-49-55 remaining sts on needle.
Knit garter st - at the same time dec at edges and inc at marker - see knitting tips-2.
This decreases 2 sts per row.
Dec every other row a total of 16-19-22 times = 11-11-11 sts remain. Continue to knit garter st over these 11 sts for strap.
Bind off when strap measures approx. 30 cm [11.75"] or correct length - try on dress to check correct length of strap.

2nd strap:
Put the 43-49-55 sts from st holder on needles and work the same as the 1st strap.

Assembly:
Sew side seams on bodice.
Sew straps to back.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.05.2006
Chart:
= beige, col. no 23.
Not 61 light beige as said before correction.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= terracotta, col. no. 28
= dark orange, col. no. 49
= dark plum, col. no. 38
= dark mustard, col. no. 35
= turquoise, col. no. 32
= beige, col. no 23.
= natural, col. no. 08
= dark brown, col. no. 22
= decrease rows
= yo, on the next row, knit yo with twisted st
= K 2 tog
= K 3 tog
= sl 1, K 1, psso.
= sl 1, K 2 tog, psso
= K (chart M.1-M.7)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 68-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Evelyne Vivier 14.05.2018 - 19:34:

Bonjour je suis vraiment désolée je ne comprends toujours pas pouvez vous m expliquer autrement. Toutes mes excuses mais je ne vois pas comment on diminue au niveau du marqueur. Dites moi dans quel sens on va!!!!!! Merci \\\\\\\\r\\\\\\\\nCordialement Evelyne

DROPS Design 15.05.2018 kl. 09:59:

Bonjour Mme Vivier, on ne diminue pas au niveau du marqueur, on diminuer au début et à la fin du rang, et en même temps, on augmente de chaque côté du marqueur = on diminue 2 m au début du rang et 2 m à la fin du rang et en même temps, sur le même rang, on augmente 2 m au marqueur = on va diminuer 2 m au total. Bon tricot!

Evelyne Vivier 13.05.2018 - 12:27:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas les diminutions pour le devant astuce 2 .\r\n J\'ai mis mon marqueur au milieu de mes 43m et après je suis bloquée . Merci pour votre réponse . Cordialement Evelyne

DROPS Design 14.05.2018 kl. 11:46:

Bonjour Mme Vivier, placez bien votre marqueur dans la m centrale (= 21 m, mettez un marqueur dans la m suivante, 21 m). Diminuez ensuite ainsi: 1 m end, 3 m ens à l'end (= on diminue 2 m), faites 1 jeté de chaque côté de la maille avec le marqueur (= 2 augm), continuez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 m et diminuez 2 m (= glissez 1 m à l'end, 2 m ens à l'end, p assez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée), 1 m end = vous avez diminué 4 m et augmenté 2 m = vous avez diminué 2 mailles seulement sur ce rang. Bon tricot!

Evelyne Vivier 02.05.2018 - 10:07:

Bonjour Merci pour votre réponse. J'ai bien compris la diminution mais je j'obtiens pas le bon nombre de mailles entre les jetés Pouvez vous m expliquer à nouveau Merci Evelyne

DROPS Design 02.05.2018 kl. 10:53:

Bonjour Mme Vivier, à la 1ère diminution (flèche 1), tricotez les premières m comme avant: 2 m ens à l'end, 6 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 6 m end, 1 dim, 1 m end, puis tricotez 3 m ens à l'end (= 12ème symbole = 2 dim), 5 m end, 1 jeté, 5 m end, glissez 1 m à l'end, 2 m ens à l'end, passez la m glissée par dessus la m tricotée (= 2 diminutions = avant-dernier symbole). Bon tricot!

Evelyne Vivier 30.04.2018 - 15:14:

Bonjour je n arrive pas à faire les diminutions 1 je n'ai pas le bon nombre de mailles entre les deux Comment dois-je suivre le diagramme sur les 36m Merci Cordialement Evelyne

DROPS Design 02.05.2018 kl. 09:21:

Bonjour Mme Vivier, en bas de la robe, tricotez d'abord M.1 puis diminuez en suivant les 2 rangs 1. = celui avec la flèche (= on diminue au 1er de ces 2 rangs), tricotez ensuite en suivant M.2. À 33 cm, tricotez les 2 rangs 2. avec la flèche (= diminutions) et tricotez ensuite M.3, et ainsi de suite, tricotez le diagramme indiqué puis, pour diminuer, tricotez les 2 rangs suivant avec la flèche. Bon tricot!

Lisa Nyberg 26.02.2018 - 19:50:

Hej från en nybörjare som vill prova att göra en enkel klänning och fann den här. Kan jag använda mönstret för att göra den enfärgad och utan sick-sack-mönstret eller är det bättre att jag letar upp ett annat mönster?

DROPS Design 27.02.2018 kl. 13:33:

Hej Lisa, Jo men det bør du kunne, men sørg for at få samme strikkefasthed som der står i opskriften, så målene stemmer med dem du finder i måleskitsen nederst. God fornøjelse!

Joan Honoré 15.06.2017 - 18:30:

Hej, tak for svar. Kombinerer jeg muskat og cotton light ? og hvilke farve nr vil i foreslå at jeg bruger istedet for 22,28+35 ? Farverne snydere somme tider på en skærm :-)

DROPS Design 16.06.2017 kl. 06:57:

Hei Joan. Fargevalg er så personlig at det beste er at du velger de fargene du mener passer deg best, enten i bare Muskat eller i Cotton Light. God Fornøyelse!

Joan 11.06.2017 - 09:21:

Hej, tak for svar. Kombinerer jeg muskat og cotton light ? og hvilke farve nr vil i foreslå at jeg bruger istedet for 22,28+35 ? Farverne snydere somme tider på en skærm :-)

Chris 10.06.2017 - 12:34:

Hva med bakstykket på denne kjolen? Det står at en skal felle av alle 60 m. på bakstykket. Stemmer dette? Det kan være noe jeg ikke har klart å lese av oppskriften. Forslag/erfaringer tas i mot med takk på hvordan jeg skal gjør det med bakstykket :)

DROPS Design 12.06.2017 kl. 08:19:

Hei Chris. Ja, det stemmer. Kjolen strikkes på rundp fra nederkant av skjørtet og opp, når arb måler 66 cm (str M) byttes det til rundp 3 og strikkes ferdig med terrakotta og rillestrikk. Fell til ermhull, deretter strikkes for- og bakstk ferdig for seg. Bakstk: = 80 m. Videre felles det til ermhull i hver side på hver 2.p - se Felletips: 1 m i alt 10 ganger = 60 m, fell av. Du er nå ferdig med bakstykket og skal nå strikke forstykkene inkl stroppene, disse stroppene skal så festes i bakstykket. Se bildet av ryggen. God Fornøyelse!

Joan 09.06.2017 - 11:01:

Vil SÅ gerne lave denne kjole. Men farve nr 22,28 + 35 er udgået. Hvilket farver nr foreslår i man erstatter med ? mvh Joan

DROPS Design 09.06.2017 kl. 15:38:

Hej Joan, husk at du også kan strikke den i Cotton Light - klik på garnalternativer :)

Joan Honore 09.06.2017 - 10:52:

Vil SÅ gerne lave denne kjole. Men farve nr 22,28 + 35 er udgået. Hvilket farver nr foreslår i man erstatter med ? mvh Joan

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