DROPS Extra / 0-1131

Carter by DROPS Design

Men's knitted jumper in DROPS Belle, with raglan and worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no vs-004
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-550-600-650-750-800 g color no 09, beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib.

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53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.15 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

Inc for raglan by working a YO on each side of A.1 in every raglan. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

See diagram A.1.

Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Cast on 114-117-120-123-126-129 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Belle. K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 1/P 2). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4''. Now continue piece in stockinette st. On first round dec 18-17-16-15-14-13 sts evenly = 96-100-104-108-112-116 sts (this is done to give the garment better shape). On next round, inc 24-26-30-40-48-70 sts evenly = 120-126-134-148-160-186 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid back. On next round work as follows from mid back: K 17-18-20-24-27-33 (= half back piece), A.1, K 6, A.1 (= sleeve), K 34-37-41-48-54-67 (= front piece), A.1, K 6, A.1 (= sleeve ), K 17-19-21-24-27-34 (= half back piece). Continue pattern like this while AT THE SAME TIME working an elevation in the back as follows: Work 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and work 24 sts, turn, continue to work 8 sts more for every turn until a total of 64 sts have been worked after last turn, turn and work 1 round over all sts until mid back again. On next round start inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above - NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Inc every round 0-4-4-4-4-4 times in total, then every other round 28-27-29-30-32-33 times. There are 90-99-107-116-126-141 sts on front and back piece.

Inc every other round 16-19-21-22-24-27 times, then every 4th round 6-5-5-5-5-4 times. There are 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts for each sleeve.

When all inc are done there are 320-346-370-392-420-458 sts on needle. On next round, work as follows: K 45-49-53-58-63-70, slip the next 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), K 90-99-107-116-126-141, slip the next 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), K 45-50-54-58-63-71 = 196-214-230-248-268-298 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of markers in the side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 14-14-14-30-30-30 cm / 5½"-5½"-5½"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4" 2-2-2-1-1-1 more times = 184-202-218-240-260-290 sts. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½'', K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-17-16-15-16-13 sts evenly = 204-219-234-255-276-303 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib = K 1/P 2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', loosely bind off K over K and P over P.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts = 78-82-86-88-92-96 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME continue A.1 as follows: Inc 1 YO before A.1 up towards middle of sleeve, K 2 tog after A.1 towards under sleeve (i.e. the 8 new sts cast on under sleeve). This is done so that A.1 meets under sleeve and disappears, repeat dec every other round until all sts in both A.1 are gone. K YO twisted on next round, it should not make holes. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3½-3½-3-3-2½-2½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-1"-7/8"-7/8" 11-12-13-13-14-15 more times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts.

Work in stockinette st until piece measures 51-50-50-50-49-49 cm / 20"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4". K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-4-5-3-4-2 sts evenly = 60-60-63-63-66-66 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work rib = K 1/P 2. Bind off when piece measures 55-54-54-54-53-53 cm / 21½"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21"-21" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work the other sleeve the same way.

Cast on 23 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle. Continue in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side of piece. When piece measures 8 cm / 3'', adjust so that next row is from WS, inc 4 sts evenly from WS = 27 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, rib = K 1/P 2 until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', bind off K over K and P over P.

Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the pocket on the left sleeve, approx 45 cm/18" from bind off edge.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1131) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Fatmé Marquise 02.04.2020 - 20:52:

Hello ,,, for the body decreases after 4 cm ; the second decrease is after 14 cm +the 4 cm that means 18 cm or the 4cm is not included ,,, I’m a bit confused... please help me .. thank you .

DROPS Design 03.04.2020 kl. 07:43:

Dear Mrs Marquise, the first decrease on body will be worked after 4 cm from the division and the next decreased after 14 more cm, ie 18 cm from the division, and the next one after 14 more cm ie 32 cm after division. Happy knitting!

Marie-Laure 25.08.2019 - 20:20:

Bonjour, J'ai commencé à tricoter le modèle Carter en taille S et je dois commencer à augmenter pour le raglan dos/devant. Selon les explications, il faut augmenter "0 fois au total tous les tours, puis 28 fois tous les 2 tours". Cela veut-il dire que je commence directement les 28 augmentations tous les 2 tours ? Merci d'avance pour vos éclaircissements.

DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Marie-Laure! En taille S vous commencez directement par les 28 augmentations tous les 2 tours. Bon tricot!

Morgan 25.06.2019 - 01:20:

Hej, Jag förstår inte hur jag ska sticka början på tröjan. Efter ökningen så skall det stickas både förhöjning i ryggen och som jag förstår det även ett antal hela varv. Som jag fattar det kommer förhöjningen rakt in i A.1. Ska jag sticka 8 m, vända, sticka 16 tilllbaka och sen vända och sticka ett helt varv med mönster och allt? Är det så jag ska tolka beskrivningen. Och hur många varv totalt skall stickas innan ökningen till raglan?

DROPS Design 26.06.2019 kl. 08:32:

Hei Morgan. Du skal strikke dette samtidig. Etter omgangen med økinger strikkes forhøyning midt bak som forklart: strikk de første 8 maskene, snu og strikk 16 masker fra vrangen, snu og strikk 24 masker fra retten osv til du har strikket over 64 masker. Siden bakstykket kun går over 34-37-41-48-54-67 masker vil forhøyningen gå over deler av ermene (unntatt str XXXL), og raglanlinjene. Når du kommer dit, skal du strikke A.1 over raglanlinjene som forklart. Det kan lønne seg å sette merker ved hver A.1 så holder du lettere oversikt. Når forhøyningen er ferdig, strikkes over alle masker som forklart på starten. God fornøyelse

Barbara 04.04.2019 - 08:05:

Buongiorno, ho ripreso le maglie lasciate in attesa delle maniche ma non riesco a capire come far scomparire il diagramma A1 sottomanica . In particolare: " proseguire con il diagramma A.1 come segue: aumentare facendo 1 m gettata prima del diagramma A.1 verso il centro della manica, lavorare 2 m insieme a dir dopo il diagramma A.1 verso il sotto manica (quindi le 8 nuove m avviate sotto la manica). In questo modo i diagrammi A.1 ai lati della manica, si uniscono e scompaiono nel sotto manica"

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 08:39:

Buongiorno Barbara, deve lavorare come indicato: lavorando 2 maglie insieme dopo il diagramma A.1, e continuando con queste diminuzioni, il diagramma A. 1 scomparirà gradualmente. Buon lavoro!

Rossella 28.01.2019 - 20:47:

Per gli aumenti per il raglan quando viene detto di aumentare ogni 2 giri significa fare un giro senza aumenti e il secondo giro aumentare o fare due giri senza aumenti e aumentare il terzo?

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 21:06:

Buongiorno Rosella. Lavora un giro senza aumenti e al secondo giro aumenta. Buon lavoro!

Filippo 23.01.2019 - 22:24:

Non riesco a trovare i ferri a doppia punta da 40 cm per fare le maniche, si possono usare quelli da 30 cm o altri tipi di ferri?

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 23:36:

Buonasera Filippo. Può usare i ferri da 30 cm oppure anche ferri circolari. Buon lavoro!

Joe73 07.12.2018 - 13:02:

Guten Tag, für die Ärmel : man macht Umschläge und Abnahmen „bis alle M von beiden A1 weg sind“ Dann steht „bei einer Länge von 4 cm beidseitig des Markierer je 1 M abnehmen“. Wenn ich alle M von A1 abgenommen habe, ist die Länge mehr als 4 cm. Muss ich beide Abnahmeprozesse gleichzeitig machen? Danke!

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 14:36:

Liebe Joe73, auch wenn Sie mahr als 4 cm brauchen, um A.1 abzunehmen, beginnen Sie die Abnahmen für den Ärmel immer nach 4 cm, sonnst könnte die Ärmel zu breit sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Edw 06.10.2018 - 21:07:

Bonjour, Je suis arrivée aux manches mais je ne comprends pas trop les explications des jetés et les 2 m ensembles afin que les A1 se rejoignent ... à quel moment faut il faire ça ? Il y a qu’un jeté et qune diminution (2 m ensembles) à faire (soit après et avantage les 8 m rajoutées ) ? Ou bien faut le faire entre chaque A1? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 08:42:

Bonjour Edw, sous les manches, vous allez augmenter le nombre de mailles en jersey et diminuer le nombre de mailles tricotées dans A.1: faites 1 jeté avant le A.1 en fin de tour (= on augmente le nombre de m jersey), tricotez jusqu'à 2 m avant le marqueur, diminuez 1 m, marqueur, diminuez 1 m, tricotez les mailles restantes de A.1 et faites 1 jeté avant le jersey = vous augmentez 2 m par tour (côté jersey) et diminuez 2 m (celles de A.1, au milieu sous la manche). Bon tricot!

Isabella 28.07.2018 - 09:32:

Sempre sull’alzata: quello che continuo a non capire bene è cosa significhi “allo stesso tempo”. Il lavoro procede in tondo, l’alzata invece richiede di tornare avanti e indietro. Questo non crea due fori ai lati dell’alzata?

Isabella 22.07.2018 - 20:26:

Salve, ho bisogno di aiuto perché non capisco cosa sia l’alzata sul dietro, e come si unisca al resto. Forse potrebbe aiutare un’immagine o uno schizzo del dietro. Grazie

DROPS Design 22.07.2018 kl. 20:41:

Buonasera Isabella. Un'alzata consiste nel lavorare alcuni ferri solo sul numero di maglie indicate per rendere lo scollo sul dietro leggermente più alto rispetto allo scollo sul davanti e garantire una vestibilità migliore al capo. Buon lavoro!

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