DROPS / 164 / 1

Into The Woods by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st, double seed st and lace pattern with hood in ”Eskimo”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-531
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
950-1050-1150-1300-1400-1550 g color no 23, tan

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm/US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm/US 10.75 – for edge in garter st.
DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON (angular) NO 538: 6 pieces in all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.15$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 sts in garter st and 1 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

MEASURING TIP 1 (applies for body and back piece):
To get the correct proportions on the jacket make all length measurements when work lies flat. Because of the weight of the yarn and the garter sts on the yoke the work will stretch approx. 10 cm / 4'' in total length to what is shown on the schematic drawing.

MEASURING TIP 2 (applies for sleeves):
Because of the weight of the yarn make all length measurements while holding the piece up.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for 6 buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 4 sts, bind off 2 sts for button hole, work 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts, cast of the next 2 sts for buttonhole = 2 buttonholes on same row (4 sts remain on band). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 36, 45, 54 cm /
14 1/4", 17 3/4", 21 1/4"
SIZE M: 38, 47, 56 cm /
15", 18½", 22''
SIZE L: 40, 49, 58 cm /
15 3/4", 19 1/4", 22 3/4"
SIZE XL: 42, 51, 60 cm /
16½", 20", 23½"
SIZE XXL: 44, 53, 62 cm /
17 1/4", 21", 24½"
SIZE XXXL: 46, 55, 64 cm /
18", 21½", 25 1/4"
NOTE: Approx. 1 cm / ½'' remains after last buttonhole before working in garter st over all sts. (on band).
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 61-65-71-75-81-87 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Eskimo. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'' (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 2 times in total (choose diagram for correct size = 2 repetitions of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stockinette st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stockinette st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4'', dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec) and MEASURING TIP 1. Repeat dec in each side every 7-7-8-10-10-10 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-4"-4"-4'' a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 47-51-57-63-69-75 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''. Now bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-3 times = 39-41-43-43-45-47 sts. When piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm / 30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35½"-36½", bind off the middle 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 40-42-44-48-52-54 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side and 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Eskimo. Work first row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band), then work in garter st over the remaining 22-24-26-28-32-34 sts. Continue with A.1 over band and garter st over the remaining sts for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts as before, 2 sts in stockinette st, work A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stockinette st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stockinette st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st towards the side. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4'', dec in the side as on back piece. Repeat dec 7-7-7-6-6-6 times in total = 33-35-37-42-46-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'', dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½" - REMEMBER MEASURING TIP 1, work in garter st over all sts (also over the 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts) until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 29-30-30-32-34-34 sts on needle. When piece measures 74-77-80-82-85-88 cm / 29"-30½"-31½"-32 1/4"-33½"-34½", slip the outermost 11-11-11-12-13-13 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Beg A.2 as follows from RS: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work in stockinette st until 29-29-31-33-35-35 sts remain on row, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work 1 st in stockinette st and continue A.1 over the remaining 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band). Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

HOOD:
Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Eskimo. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''. Bind off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-28-30-30-34-34 (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Eskimo. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-12 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-4"-4 3/4", inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP 2. Repeat inc every 7½-6-6-5-4½-3½ cm / 2 7/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2"-1 3/4"-1 1/4" 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in total = 38-42-44-46-50-52 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-45-44-43 cm / 19"-19"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-2 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-3 times. Then bind off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures approx. 55-56-56-56-56-56 cm / 21½"-22"-22"-22"-22"-22", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.08.2015
BACK PIECE:
....Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stockinette st,

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (97)

Maya 23.05.2020 - 15:57:

Bonjour! J'aimerais savoir s'il faut continuer à tricoter la maille lisière au point mousse, sur le dos, après avoir rabattu les mailles pour les emmanchures? Merci beaucoup d'avance!

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 08:41:

Bonjour Maya, vous pouvez tricoter les mailles lisières en jersey (cette vidéo vous montre comment assembler les manches ensuite). Bon tricot!

Peter Ackers 12.08.2019 - 01:55:

Thank you very much. It's all about how the pattern is read. I took it as decreasing the 2 sts at the beg of the next 4 rows. That's where I made the mistake. ****NOTE**** The 2 st decrease each side 4x means, cast off 2 sts on the RS then cast off 2 sts on the WS. This counts as 1 time. Repeat this process 3 more times to give you the 16 sts less. Woo-hoo I have 47 sts remaining.

Peter Ackers 11.08.2019 - 17:57:

What the hell am I doing wrong?? I saw the error on the 75 sts decrease, I didnt notice the further decreasing. So I pulled it out, and corrected the error. I now have 75 sts on the neddle. Cast off 3 sts beg next 2 rows - 75-8=69. Next Cast off 2 sts beg next 4 rows - 69-8=61 sts remaining. Next is says decrease 1 st each end 3 times - 69-8=61 sts. The final step says to decrease 1 st each end 3 times for 6 sts total. That only equals 55 sts, where the heck are those decreased from??

DROPS Design 11.08.2019 kl. 18:25:

Hello Peter. You start with 75 sts. You cast off both on right and wrong side of work. You cast off 3 sts 1 time on each side of work (so after this decrease you must have 75-6= 69 sts). You then dec 2 sts 4 times each side (so this leaves you with 69 - 16 = 53 sts). Now you dec 1 st 3 times each side: 53 - 6 = 47 sts. Happy knitting!

Peter Ackers 09.08.2019 - 21:41:

Thanks for the info on the decreasing. I went back and looked at the pattern against and saw the decreases to 75 sts. I totally missed that part. Grrrr

Peter Ackers 09.08.2019 - 17:07:

Unless I'm reading section wrong, "Now bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-3 times = 39-41-43-43-45-47 sts" or the pattern is wrong somehow. From 85 sts currently on the needle, this decrease only drops to 65 sts, not 47. Have been knitting a long time and this is confusing lol

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 18:11:

Dear Peter, before binding off for the armholes for size XXXL you've 75 sts on needles. You've to bind off the sts at both sides as follows: 3 sts each side, 2 sts each side for 4 times and 1 st each side for 3 times, so 6+16+6= 28 sts decreased. 75-28 = 47 sts. Happy knitting!

Peter Ackers 22.07.2019 - 10:17:

What are the changes on the corrections page. Love the design.

DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 19:25:

Hi Peter, if we get a report of a potential error, we will review the pattern and make the correction if necessary. This will be done normally within 7 to 10 working days. If no correction is made, it means that we weren't able to find any error/mistake. The pattern itself is corrected as well. Kind regards

Véronique 11.02.2019 - 18:55:

Bonjour, J’aimerai tricoter ce modèle par contre, j’aimerai que le col ferme jusqu’en haut, surtout pour l’hiver. Comment puis-je faire pour rajouter 3 rangées de boutons au-dessus des 3 déjà prévues ? Merci de votre retour. Cordialement.

DROPS Design 12.02.2019 kl. 08:42:

Bonjour Véronique, commencez par exemple par le devant gauche avant le devant droit, et marquez les emplacements des boutons/boutonnières prévues avec des épingles, pour trouver l'emplacement idéal des autres boutons que vous souhaitez ajouter. Il sera ainsi plus simple de prévoir les boutonnières sur le devant droit là où vous les souhaitez. Bon tricot!

Emilie Cote 06.01.2019 - 18:57:

Bonjour, de combien de balle de laine ai-je besoin pour tricoter ce modèle dans le format moyen? Merci

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 11:36:

Bonjour Mme Cote, vous trouverez les quantités requises pour chaque taille, au poids, sous l'en-tête du modèle, soit 1050 g en taille M / 50 g la pelote DROPS Eskimo = 21 pelotes Eskimo en taille M. Bon tricot!

Sylvia 04.12.2018 - 12:39:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Länge von Vorder- und Rückenteil. Es heißt: das Gestrick wird sich im Verhältnis zu den Maßen in der Maßskizze um ca. 10 cm in der Länge aushängen. Bedeutet dass, dass ich 10 cm in der Länge weniger stricke (liegend gemessen) als auf der Skizze angegeben? Somit wäre der Armausschnitt in Größe S bei 75 cm (5 cm kraus rechts + 70 cm) und nicht erst bei 85 cm (5 cm kraus rechts + 80 cm)? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 13:55:

Liebe Sylvia, messen Sie alle Teilen flach = das sind dieselben Massen, die Sie in der Maßskizze finden. Beim Tragen wird dann die Jacke ca 10 m länger wegen Gewicht der Wolle. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Petra 17.11.2018 - 22:46:

Alles perfekt anhand der tollen Anleitung und der sehr netten Betreuung bei Fragen, herzlichen Dank!

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