DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
 100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Button 538
DROPS Buttons
Charred (angular) No. 538
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS
  5. 164
  6. 1

Into The Woods

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st, double seed st and lace pattern with hood in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

Change language:

DROPS 164-1
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-531
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
950-1050-1150-1300-1400-1550 g color no 23, tan

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm/US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm/US 10.75 – for edge in garter st.
DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON (angular) NO 538: 6 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
 100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Button 538
DROPS Buttons
Charred (angular) No. 538
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 sts in garter st and 1 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

MEASURING TIP 1 (applies for body and back piece):
To get the correct proportions on the jacket make all length measurements when work lies flat. Because of the weight of the yarn and the garter sts on the yoke the work will stretch approx. 10 cm / 4'' in total length to what is shown on the schematic drawing.

MEASURING TIP 2 (applies for sleeves):
Because of the weight of the yarn make all length measurements while holding the piece up.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for 6 buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 4 sts, bind off 2 sts for button hole, work 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts, cast of the next 2 sts for buttonhole = 2 buttonholes on same row (4 sts remain on band). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 36, 45, 54 cm /
14 1/4", 17 3/4", 21 1/4"
SIZE M: 38, 47, 56 cm /
15", 18½", 22''
SIZE L: 40, 49, 58 cm /
15 3/4", 19 1/4", 22 3/4"
SIZE XL: 42, 51, 60 cm /
16½", 20", 23½"
SIZE XXL: 44, 53, 62 cm /
17 1/4", 21", 24½"
SIZE XXXL: 46, 55, 64 cm /
18", 21½", 25 1/4"
NOTE: Approx. 1 cm / ½'' remains after last buttonhole before working in garter st over all sts. (on band).
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 61-65-71-75-81-87 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'' (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 2 times in total (choose diagram for correct size = 2 repetitions of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stockinette st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stockinette st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4'', dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec) and MEASURING TIP 1. Repeat dec in each side every 7-7-8-10-10-10 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-4"-4"-4'' a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 47-51-57-63-69-75 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''. Now bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-3 times = 39-41-43-43-45-47 sts. When piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm / 30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35½"-36½", bind off the middle 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 40-42-44-48-52-54 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side and 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow. Work first row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band), then work in garter st over the remaining 22-24-26-28-32-34 sts. Continue with A.1 over band and garter st over the remaining sts for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts as before, 2 sts in stockinette st, work A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stockinette st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stockinette st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st towards the side. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4'', dec in the side as on back piece. Repeat dec 7-7-7-6-6-6 times in total = 33-35-37-42-46-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'', dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½" - REMEMBER MEASURING TIP 1, work in garter st over all sts (also over the 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts) until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 29-30-30-32-34-34 sts on needle. When piece measures 74-77-80-82-85-88 cm / 29"-30½"-31½"-32 1/4"-33½"-34½", slip the outermost 11-11-11-12-13-13 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Beg A.2 as follows from RS: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work in stockinette st until 29-29-31-33-35-35 sts remain on row, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work 1 st in stockinette st and continue A.1 over the remaining 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band). Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

HOOD:
Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''. Bind off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-28-30-30-34-34 (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-12 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-4"-4 3/4", inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP 2. Repeat inc every 7½-6-6-5-4½-3½ cm / 2 7/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2"-1 3/4"-1 1/4" 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in total = 38-42-44-46-50-52 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-45-44-43 cm / 19"-19"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-2 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-3 times. Then bind off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures approx. 55-56-56-56-56-56 cm / 21½"-22"-22"-22"-22"-22", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.08.2015
BACK PIECE:
....Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stockinette st,

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Into The Woods

Sylvis, Germany

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Comments / Questions (111)

country flag Katharina wrote:

Hallo, Die Grösse xxxl entspricht welcher Grösse?mfg Katharina

21.11.2024 - 10:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, um die richtige Größe zu finden, messen Sie eine ähnliche Jacke, die Sie gerne tragen und vergleichen Sie die Maßnahmen mit den in der Maßskizze - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

21.11.2024 - 15:37

country flag Irene Manuela Guerrero wrote:

Me encantaría aprender a tejer con este sistema, sólo conozco las agujas rectas y el crochet, éste sistema sin costura me encantaría, vivo en España Gerona y no creo que consiga estas agujas, no? Gracias

18.10.2023 - 05:55

country flag Jolanda Baltus wrote:

Bij de beschryving van het rechtervoorpand, is de mindering voor de mouwinzet niet opgenomen. Het is even puzzelen, verder mooi patroon, nog wel twee extra knoopsgaten meegenomen :)

17.01.2023 - 10:16

country flag Lisa Robert wrote:

Rabattre maintenant pour les emmanchures au début de chaque rang de chaque côté: 1 fois 3 m, 0-0-1-2-3-4 fois 2 m et 1-2-2-3-3-3 fois 1 m = 39-41-43-43-45-47 m. A cette partie du tricot je suis a 57m si je rabats comme indiqué je ne trouve pas 43m je crois que je ne comprends pas bien cette partie du patron, pouvez-voue m'expliquer s'il vous plait?

25.10.2022 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, en taille L, vous allez rabattre 3 m au début des 2 rangs suivants (= à la fin du rang suivant sur l'endroit + à la fin du rang suivant sur l'envers) (= 3 m de chaque côté), puis 2 mailles au début des 2 rangs suivants (= 2 m de chaque côté) et enfin 1 maille au début des 4 rangs suivants (2 m de chaque côté) vous avez ainsi rabattu 3+2+2 = 7 m de chaque côté soit: 57-14=43 mailles. Bon tricot!

25.10.2022 - 13:13

country flag Anna wrote:

Woher stammt die Wolle bzw. ist sie aus artgerechter Haltung gewonnen? Kann ich zu viel bestelltes Garn umtauschen?

22.10.2022 - 10:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna, mehr übere unsere Wollen können Sie hier und auch hier lesen - über Umtauschen wenden Sie sich bitte direkt an Ihrem DROPS Händler an, dort wird man Ihnen am besten helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.10.2022 - 07:53

country flag Lisa Robert wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerai beaucoup essayer de tricoter ce modèle mais je ne vois pas le nombre de pelotes qu'il faut prendre pour une taille M. Merci de votre aide

26.09.2022 - 06:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête, avec les tailles, les aiguilles et l'échantillon; autrement dit, en taille M, il vous faudra 1050 g DROPS Snow / 50 g la pelote = 21 pelotes. Bon tricot!

26.09.2022 - 11:31

country flag Sabrina Schmidt wrote:

Hallo. Ich habe Probleme beim Annähen der Ärmel. Ich habe mehr Ärmelmaschen als Armausschnittsmaschen und somit passt es leider nicht. Bei der Anleitung der Ärmel steht am Ende: Die restlichen M abketten, die Arb hat eine Gesamtlänge von ca. 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm. Den 2. Ärmel ebenso str. Wie viel sind denn die restlichen Maschen? Bei mir sind es 10 Maschen. Ist das korrekt oder habe ich hier den Fehler, dass die Ärmel nicht passen? Vielen Dank

21.01.2022 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schmidt, die restlichen Maschenanzahl kann je nach Ihrer Maschenprobe in der Höhe unterschiedlich sein, wichtig ist hier die cm-Angaben, damit alle stimmen. Vesuchen Sie die Ärmel mit Stecknadel in das Armloch zu platzieren, es kann sicher helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.01.2022 - 16:08

country flag Sabrina Schmidt wrote:

Hallo. Ich habe heute eine Frage geschickt aber ich habe mein Problem gerade selbst klären können. Vielen Dank trotzdem.

18.01.2022 - 15:13

country flag Sabrina Schmidt wrote:

Hallo. Ich bin bei den Ärmeln: Bei einer Gesamtlänge von 8-8-8-8-10-12 cm je 1 M beidseitig zunehmen . Bei Zunahmetipp steht: Es wird neben 1 kraus-re-Rand-M und 1 re-M zugenommen (d.h. neben 2 M), indem 1 Umschlag gearb wird. Wird denn hier nur am Anfang der Reihe zugenommen oder auch am Reihenende. Müsste ja so sein, da 2 Ma pro Reihe zugenommen werden, oder? Auf der Zeichnung der Ärmel sehe ich aber nur eine Zunahmeschräge an einer Seite. Vielen Dank vorab. Sabrina

18.01.2022 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schmidt, bei den Ärmel werden 2 Maschen (1 auf beide Seite = die erste nach der Randmaschen+ 1 Masche und die andere vor 1 Masche + der Randmaschen) zugenommen - bei der Skizze liegt die Ärmel flach = Die Schrägseite ist dann unten (mitte unter die Ärmel). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.01.2022 - 14:11

country flag Hanne Gawenda wrote:

Woher stammt die Wolle? Wird sie aus artgerechter Tierhaltung bzw tierfreundlich gewonnen?

20.08.2021 - 14:46

Into The Woods



Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st, double seed st and lace pattern with hood in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 164-1
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-531
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
950-1050-1150-1300-1400-1550 g color no 23, tan

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm/US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm/US 10.75 – for edge in garter st.
DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON (angular) NO 538: 6 pieces in all sizes

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 sts in garter st and 1 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

MEASURING TIP 1 (applies for body and back piece):
To get the correct proportions on the jacket make all length measurements when work lies flat. Because of the weight of the yarn and the garter sts on the yoke the work will stretch approx. 10 cm / 4'' in total length to what is shown on the schematic drawing.

MEASURING TIP 2 (applies for sleeves):
Because of the weight of the yarn make all length measurements while holding the piece up.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for 6 buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 4 sts, bind off 2 sts for button hole, work 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts, cast of the next 2 sts for buttonhole = 2 buttonholes on same row (4 sts remain on band). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 36, 45, 54 cm /
14 1/4", 17 3/4", 21 1/4"
SIZE M: 38, 47, 56 cm /
15", 18½", 22''
SIZE L: 40, 49, 58 cm /
15 3/4", 19 1/4", 22 3/4"
SIZE XL: 42, 51, 60 cm /
16½", 20", 23½"
SIZE XXL: 44, 53, 62 cm /
17 1/4", 21", 24½"
SIZE XXXL: 46, 55, 64 cm /
18", 21½", 25 1/4"
NOTE: Approx. 1 cm / ½'' remains after last buttonhole before working in garter st over all sts. (on band).
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 61-65-71-75-81-87 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'' (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 2 times in total (choose diagram for correct size = 2 repetitions of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stockinette st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stockinette st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4'', dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec) and MEASURING TIP 1. Repeat dec in each side every 7-7-8-10-10-10 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-4"-4"-4'' a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 47-51-57-63-69-75 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''. Now bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-3 times = 39-41-43-43-45-47 sts. When piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm / 30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35½"-36½", bind off the middle 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 40-42-44-48-52-54 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side and 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow. Work first row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band), then work in garter st over the remaining 22-24-26-28-32-34 sts. Continue with A.1 over band and garter st over the remaining sts for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts as before, 2 sts in stockinette st, work A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stockinette st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stockinette st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st towards the side. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4'', dec in the side as on back piece. Repeat dec 7-7-7-6-6-6 times in total = 33-35-37-42-46-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'', dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½" - REMEMBER MEASURING TIP 1, work in garter st over all sts (also over the 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts) until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 29-30-30-32-34-34 sts on needle. When piece measures 74-77-80-82-85-88 cm / 29"-30½"-31½"-32 1/4"-33½"-34½", slip the outermost 11-11-11-12-13-13 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Beg A.2 as follows from RS: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work in stockinette st until 29-29-31-33-35-35 sts remain on row, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work 1 st in stockinette st and continue A.1 over the remaining 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band). Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

HOOD:
Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''. Bind off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-28-30-30-34-34 (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-12 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-4"-4 3/4", inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP 2. Repeat inc every 7½-6-6-5-4½-3½ cm / 2 7/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2"-1 3/4"-1 1/4" 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in total = 38-42-44-46-50-52 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-45-44-43 cm / 19"-19"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-2 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-3 times. Then bind off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures approx. 55-56-56-56-56-56 cm / 21½"-22"-22"-22"-22"-22", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram explanations
symbol = K from RS, P from WS
symbol = P from RS, K from WS
symbol = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbol = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

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