DROPS / 164 / 3

Falling Leaves by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a square in garter st with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-719
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 2020, light camel
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
175-175-200-225-250-275 g color no 20, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – for garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.9. The diagrams shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Cast on 301-301-349-349-397-397 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work as follows: Work 6 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 16 sts), A.2 (= 16 sts) over the next 256-256-304-304-352-352 sts, A.3 (= 17 sts) over the next 17 sts, finish with 6 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 229-229-265-265-301-301 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st, A.4 (= 12 sts) over the next 204-204-240-240-276-276 sts, A.5 (= 13 sts), finish with 6 sts in garter st. When A.4-A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4''. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work next row as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st, A.6 (= 12 sts), A.7 (= 12 sts) over the next 48-48-60-60-72-72 sts, A.8 (= 13 sts), 11 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 24-24-36-36-48-48 sts, A.8, 11 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 48-48-60-60-72-72 sts, A.8, 6 sts in garter st.

Work like this for 4 rows AT THE SAME TIME on last row bind off the middle of the 11 sts in garter st in each side = 227-227-263-263-299-299 sts.

Now divide piece and work opening for armhole:

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the last 143-143-167-167-191-191 sts on needle (seen from RS) on a stitch holder, only work over the first 84-84-96-96-108-108 sts. Continue pattern as before, i.e. work as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st, A.6-A.8 as before, finish with 5 sts in garter st. Work until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'' from where piece was divided. NOTE: Adjust so that last row is from WS. Slip sts on a stitch holder and work right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the last 84-84-96-96-108-108 sts back on needle (= 59-59-71-71-83-83 sts remain on stitch holder), work as left front piece. Slip sts on 1 stitch holder and work back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Slip the remaining 59-59-71-71-83-83 sts from stitch holder back on needle. Continue pattern, work the 5 sts in each side in garter st. When back piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'', slip all sts back on the same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. NOTE: Adjust according to pattern on front piece (last row is from WS). Then work as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 48-48-60-60-72-72 sts, A.8, 5 sts in garter st, cast on 1 new st, 5 st in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 24-24-36-36-48-48 sts, A.8, 5 sts in garter st, cast on 1 new st, 5 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 48-48-60-60-72-72 sts, A.8, 6 sts in garter st = 229-229-265-265-301-301 sts on needle. Work the new sts in garter st. Work 4 rows like this. Then work pattern as follows (from RS): 6 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 192-192-228-228-264-264 sts, A.8, finish with 6 sts in garter st.
When A.6-A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st, A.4 over the next 204-204-240-240-276-276 sts, A.5, finish with 6 sts in garter st. When A.4-A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.6-A.8 until piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33'', adjust neatly according to pattern. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work in garter st for 5 cm / 2''. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 50-50-50-56-56-56 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side of piece) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8.

SIZE S-M-L:
Work 1 st in garter st, A.2 over the next 48 sts and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 38 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾''.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 1 st in garter st, A.9 (= 18 sts) over the next 54 sts, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When A.9 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 44 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 14 cm / 5½''.

ALL SIZES:
Now work piece in stockinette st, work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements. When piece measures 14-14-14-16-16-16 cm / 5½"-5½"-5½"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4", inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece – READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc every 3½-3-3-3-2½-2½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8" 10-12-13-12-14-15 more times = 60-64-66-70-74-76 sts. Work in stockinette st until piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm / 20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½''. Bind off edge st in each side of piece at beg of the next 2 rows = 58-62-64-68-72-74 sts. Then bind off for sleeve cap in each side of piece at beg of every row as follows: bind off 4 sts 5 times in total in each side = 18-22-24-28-32-34 sts. Bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 58-59-60-61-62-63 cm / 22¾''-23¼''-23 5/8''-24''-24 3/8''-24¾''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= knitting direction





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Patricia 25.11.2019 - 23:40:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas le symbole du rang 11 du diagramme A6-A7-A8 faut il supprimer des mailles et comment rajouter le surjet double merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 26.11.2019 kl. 09:52:

Bonjour Patricia, aux rangs 11 et 17, le surjet double va se tricoter à cheval sur 2 diagrammes: à la fin de A.6, faites 1 jeté (= dernière m de A.6), tricotez le surjet double sur la dernière m de A.6 + les 2 premières m de A.7 = 1ère m de A.7 + 1 jeté = 2ème m de A.7. Continuez ainsi en tricotant la dernière m de A.7 avec les 2 premières m du A.7 suivant/de A.8. Pensez à vérifier que vous avez bien le bon nombre de mailles dans chaque diagramme. Bon tricot!

Nathalie Deleysses 28.05.2018 - 17:39:

Bonjour au niveau des diagrammes les rangs pairs sont tricotés en rangs envers ?

DROPS Design 29.05.2018 kl. 08:42:

Bonjour Mme Deleysses, tous les rangs figurent dans le diagramme, ceux sur l'endroit aussi bien que ceux sur l'envers. Tricotez les rangs envers soit à l'envers (= case blanches) soit à l'endroit (cases avec un rond noir) en fonction des diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Jackie 31.01.2018 - 14:21:

Hi I have tried this section which starts with "NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE" ans ends with 6 sts in garter sts numerous times but ends each time with 31 sts that does not fit in the patter. I am knitting the S size starting with 301 sts. Please Help. Thank you

DROPS Design 31.01.2018 kl. 15:47:

Dear Jackie, in size S you should have 229 sts after A.1-A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, then work A.4-A.5 and then (measure from here) work: 6 sts in garter st, A.6 (= 12 sts), A.7 (= 12 sts) over the next 48 sts, A.8 (= 13 sts), 11 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 24 sts, A.8, 11 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 48 sts, A.8, 6 sts in garter st = 6 + 12+48+13 + 11 + 12+24+13 + 11 + 12+48+13 + 6= 229 sts. Happy knitting!

Valeriya 14.11.2017 - 05:58:

Hi! Sorry to ask again about dividing the work for armholes. Where exactly do I have to divide? 11 stitches /2 and between them (5,1,5) after 4 raw done? or 72/2 -the length of A8/7/6 after 11 sts? I am doing the M size. Are you planning your website in Russian? A bit hard to translate your patterns ))))

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 09:27:

Dear Vaelriya, in size M you should have: 6 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 48, A.8, 5 sts in garter st, bind off 1 st for armhole, 5 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 24 sts, A.8, 11 sts in garter st, A.6, A.7 over the next 48 sts, A.8, 6 sts in garter st. For any individual assistance in Russian you are welcome to contact your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Francesca 08.09.2017 - 15:08:

Salve ho bisogno di aiuto per continuare la lavorazione. Sono arrivata a lavorare il davanti sinistro, per passare al davanti destro devo tagliare il filo quando metto le maglie in attesa? Come faccio a iniziare a lavorare il dietro?

DROPS Design 08.09.2017 kl. 17:04:

Buongiorno Francesca. Per il davanti destro deve lavorare le ultime maglie messe in attesa sul ferma maglie. Sarebbe meglio iniziare un nuovo gomitolo. Le maglie che restano sul ferma maglie, sono le maglie del dietro che lavorerà dopo aver completato il davanti destro. Buon lavoro!

Claire 01.03.2017 - 15:00:

Beautiful pattern! Do you have any recommendations for using a single yarn instead of two types of yarn? Weight or ply would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!

DROPS Design 01.03.2017 kl. 17:16:

Dear Claire, 2 strands yarn group A = 1 strand yarn group C, read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Biggi 12.01.2017 - 14:08:

Jetzt habe ich es verstanden. Hatte voll den Denkfehler. Jetzt is der Groschen gefallen. Sorry LG

Biggi 12.01.2017 - 10:25:

Liebes Team Ich verstehe den Anfang nicht. Da steht über 256 machen die A3 weiter Stricken. Aber muss ich nicht im Wechsel A1 A2 A3 A1 A2 A3 usw. Stricken ? Ich komme nicht auf die 301 Maschen. Irgendwie stehe ich auf der Leitung 😅 LG

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 16:55:

Liebe Biggi, so sollen Sie die 301 M stricken: 6 M Kraus re, A.1 (= 16 M), A.2 über die nächsten 256 M stricken dh 16 x die 16 M in A.2, dann stricken Sie A.3 (= 17 M) und 6 M Kraus re = 6+16+256 (= 16x16) + 17+6=301. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Michela 16.12.2016 - 18:54:

Salve vorrei realizzarlo ma liscio senza trafori.tra l altro temo di non capire bene le indicazioni visto che sono una principiante.e se posso usare i ferri normali invece dei circolari?uso lavorare tenendo il ferro sotto l ascella.adoro lavorare voglio imparare mi aiutate?grazie

DROPS Design 16.12.2016 kl. 19:49:

Buonasera Michela. Generalmente i cardigan aperti si riescono a lavorare con i ferri dritti senza modificare le istruzioni. In questo modello particolare vengono consigliati i ferri circolari per il numero molto alto di m da avviare e con i ferri dritti potrebbe risultare difficile. Buon lavoro!

Monika 10.10.2016 - 23:00:

Miten tuo oikea etukappale neulotaan peilikuvana? Senhän täytyy kumminkin mennä niin, että 6s ainaoikean edessä on kaavio A8. Eli 5s ainaoikein, A6, A7, A8 ja 6s ainaoikein. Muutenhan se ei toimi, kun kaikki kappaleet yhdistetään ja aletaan neuloo helmaa kohden.

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