DROPS / 161 / 33

Nordic Summer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan and round yoke in ”BabyMerino”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Nordic Summer / DROPS 161-33 - Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan and round yoke in ”BabyMerino”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Nordic Summer / DROPS 161-33 - Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan and round yoke in ”BabyMerino”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Nordic Summer / DROPS 161-33 - Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan and round yoke in ”BabyMerino”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Nordic Summer / DROPS 161-33 - Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan and round yoke in ”BabyMerino”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-017
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-120-132 cm / 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-500 g color no 01, white
50 g for all sizes in color no 25, lavender

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rounds in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for edge.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

WAIST:
Dec for waist at the 4 markers.
Dec as follows after 1st and 3rd marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 2nd and 4th marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc for waist at the 4 markers as follows: Make 1 YO after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of A.3 in every transition between sleeves and body.
Dec as follows after A.3: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows 2 sts before A.3: K 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 200-220-240-264-288-316 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with white. Work pattern according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Then work in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION/GAUGE
When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-4"-4'', insert 4 markers in piece as follows: Insert 1st marker after the first 24-28-31-36-42-48 sts, 2nd marker after the next 52-54-58-60-60-62 sts, 3rd marker after the next 48-56-62-72-84-96 sts and 4th marker after the next 52-54-58-60-60-62 sts (24-28-31-36-42-48 sts remain on needle after last marker).
Then dec for WAIST at the 4 markers – see explanation above (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec on every 4th round 7-7-7-7-6-6 times in total = 172-192-212-236-264-292 sts. When piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'' in all sizes, inc after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4th-4th-6th-6th-8th-8th round 7-7-7-7-6-6 times in total = 200-220-240-264-288-316 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 38-39-39-40-41-43 cm / 15"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16"-17". Work next round as follows: Cast/bind off 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts for armhole, work 90-100-110-120-132-146 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), cast/bind off 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for armhole, work 90-100-110-120-132-146 sts in stockinette st (= back piece) and cast/bind off the last 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-56-58-60-62-64 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with white. Work pattern according to diagram A.2. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 9th-7th-7th-6th-6th-5th round 12-14-14-16-16-17 times in total = 80-84-86-92-94-98 sts. When piece measures 41-40-39-38-38-38 cm / 16"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15"-15" (NOTE: shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast/bind off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts under sleeve (i.e. cast/bind off 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts on each side of marker) = 70-74-76-80-82-86 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and Make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body as follows: Continue with white and work sts from first sleeve AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in first st and 1 marker in last st on sleeve, work sts from front piece, work sts from the other sleeve AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in first st and 1 marker in last st on sleeve and work sts from back piece = 320-348-372-400-428-464 sts on needle and 4 markers in piece. Then work in stockinette st in the round AT THE SAME TIME work A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves (arrow in diagram should match against st with marker). AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN on each side of A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan every 4th round 6-7-8-8-9-9 times in total = 272-292-308-336-356-392 sts. After last dec K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-26-28-32-36-40 sts evenly = 252-266-280-304-320-352 sts on needle. Then work pattern in the round according to A.4 AT THE SAME TIME dec as shown in diagram - choose diagram for correct size. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 180-190-200-228-240-264 sts on needle. K 1 round with white while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-6-8-28-30-44 sts evenly = 176-184-192-200-210-220 sts. Now work pattern according to A.5 – choose diagram for correct size.
When A.5 has been worked, work an elevation in the back of neck. Insert 1 marker mid front. Beg mid back and K (with white) until 14-14-16-16-18-20 sts remain before marker. Turn, K back until 14-14-16-16-18-20 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn, K until 30-30-34-34-38-42 sts remain before marker. Turn, K back until 30-30-34-34-38-42 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn, K until 46-46-52-52-58-64 sts remain before marker. Turn, K back until 46-46-52-52-58-64 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn, K until 62-62-70-70-76-86 sts remain before marker. Turn, K back until 62-62-70-70-76-86 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K back to beg of round.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work pattern in the round over all sts according to diagram A.1 AT THE SAME TIME dec 30-28-36-34-44-44 sts evenly = 146-156-156-166-166-176 sts. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, loosely cast/bind off with K.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K with white
symbols = P with white
symbols = K with lavender
symbols = 1 YO with white
symbols = K 2 tog with white
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog with white, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 161-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (115)

country flag Martina 29.06.2021 - 07:40:

Hallo, die Raglanabnahme stricke ich nach A3. Ich verstehe nicht, wie die Abnahme zustande kommen soll. Ich mache einen Umschlag (1 M), dann mache ich aus 3 Maschen 1 M und anschließend nochmal einen Umschlag. Wenn ich vorher 3 Maschen hatte, habe ich sie nun immer noch 3 Maschen (2 Umschläge plus eine Masche in der Mitte). Vielen Dank für eine kurze Erläuterung. Grüße

user icon DROPS Design 29.06.2021 kl. 09:18:

Liebe Martina, die Raglanabnahmen sollen beidseitig von A.3 gestrickt werden (nicht nach A.3) - siehe RAGLANABNAHME, dh stricken Sie bis 2 M vor A.3 übrig sind, 2 M rechts zusammenstricken (=Abnahmen vor A.3), A.3 stricken, 1 M wie zum Rechtsstr abheben, 1 M re, die abgehobene M überziehen (=Abnahme nach A.3). Kann es Ihnen helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Yenny 14.05.2021 - 03:30:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas à quel moment je doit commencer à tricoter le graphique A2, A3, A4, A5 quand je tricote dos et devant. Est-ce que c'est possible d'avoir plus d'exploitation SVP . Mercie

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2021 kl. 08:10:

Bonjour Yenny, le diagramme A.2 ne se tricote que sur les manches (= bordure du bas des manches). Lorsque vous tricoterez l'empiècement (= dos, devant et manches ensemble en rond), vous tricoterez A.3 entre le dos/le devant et les manches (comme indiqués par l'emplacement des marqueurs), et diminuez pour le raglan. Après les diminutions du raglan, vous tricoterez A.4 en rond tout le tour. Bon tricot!

country flag Angie Kaempff 08.05.2021 - 18:53:

Er wordt gezegd dat je 8 cm moet breien. Is dat 8 cm « totaal » boord inbegrepen of 8 cm na de boord? Alvast dank!

user icon DROPS Design 12.05.2021 kl. 20:45:

Dag Angie,

Dat is 8 cm vanaf de opzet, dus met de boord in begrepen.

country flag Shirley 10.02.2021 - 00:55:

The bust sizes listed are not correct. Pls amend.

user icon DROPS Design 10.02.2021 kl. 07:24:

Dear Shirley, thanks for feedback, measurements under header will be ajusted - you will find all finished measurements in each size - in cm - in the chart at the bottom of the pattern - read more here. Happy knitting!

country flag Agata Manaskova 01.02.2021 - 21:49:

Dobrý večer, absolutně jsem nepochopila tvarování zadního průkrčníku:-(( Děkuji,Agáta

country flag Jean Linehan 02.01.2021 - 23:13:

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-017 Yarn group A I would like to knit this sweater in cotton. Could I use baby cotton instead?

user icon DROPS Design 03.01.2021 kl. 02:16:

Dear Jean Linehan! You can use any yarn which gives you the same knitting tension. Happy knitting!

country flag Anna 25.11.2020 - 10:26:

Buongiorno , ho cominciato la lavorazione del modello che ritengo molto carino . Come mi consigliate di renderlo meno scollato , per adattarlo alla stagione autunnale o primaverile ? Vi ringrazio in anticipo per la risposta:-)

user icon DROPS Design 25.11.2020 kl. 10:34:

Buongiorno Anna, per un'assistenza così personalizzata le consigliamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Monika 21.11.2020 - 23:59:

Tył I przód: "Przer. kolejne okrążenie następująco: zamknąć 5-5-5-6-6-6 o. na podkrój rękaw" - powinnam zacząć zamykanie oczek na początku okrążenia, czy po pierwszym markerze? Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź!

user icon DROPS Design 22.11.2020 kl. 19:55:

Witaj Moniko! Początek okrążenia jest z boku swetra (tam możesz umieścić marker w innym kolorze, albo nitkę). Stąd powinnaś zacząć zamykanie oczek na podkrój rękawa. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Anni 18.11.2020 - 17:47:

Sollen im Muster A.3 die Umschläge in der nächsten Reihe verschränkt abgestrickt werden oder ganz normal?

user icon DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 09:45:

Liebe Annie, die Umschläge stricken Sie ganz normal damit Löcher entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Irene 27.10.2020 - 22:22:

Ignore my last message, my tech savvy son just told me to refresh the page and it worked🤗

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