DROPS / 157 / 40

Ripple Tide by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-148
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/ M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
850-1050-1150-1250 g color no 0500, light gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5.5 mm /US 9- or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTON NO 534: 6 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.10. See diagrams for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
Diagrams A.3 and A.6 do not fit vertically when repeated but eyelet rows are continued diagonally upwards as before.

DIAGRAM A.1.
A.1 is repeated differently vertically. When there are 2 sts between first YO (towards A.3/A.6) in A.1 and A.3/A.6, stop repetition of A.1 vertically. I.e. seen from RS A.1 is repeated towards mid front and mid back 6 times in total vertically. Middle A.1 is repeated 4 times in total vertically. A.1 towards the side is repeated 2 times in total vertically. Then work as follows:
When A.1 does not fit no of sts, i.e. after repetitions explained above, work A.9 over A.1 on right front piece and right side of back piece (= 3 repetitions of A.1) and A.10 over A.1 on left front piece and left side of back piece (= 3 repetitions of A.1).

PATTERN 1:
Row 1: K from RS.
Row 2: P from WS.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row 4 more times (= 10 rows).
Row 11: K from RS.
Row 12: K from WS.
Row 13: K from RS.
Row 14: P from WS.
Row 15: P from RS.
Row 16: P from WS.
Repeat row 1 to 16.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec from RS for 6 buttonholes on right band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = work 3 sts from mid front, make 1 YO, K the next 2 tog. On next row K the YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 10, 18, 30, 38, 50 and 58 cm / 4",7",11 3/4",15",19 3/4",22 3/4"
SIZE L/XL: 12, 20, 32, 40, 52 and 60 cm / 4 3/4",8",12½",15 3/4",20½",23½"
SIZE XXL: 14, 22, 35, 43, 56 and 64 cm / 5½",8 3/4",13 3/4",17",22",25 1/4".
SIZE XXXL: 13, 22, 35, 44, 57 and 66 cm / 5",8 3/4",13 3/4",17 1/4",22½",26.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 91-103-115-127 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with Nepal. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: 3 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 14-16-18-20 sts) 6 times in total – READ PATTERN, 1 st in garter st, 3 sts in stockinette st. Continue the pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 3 sts in stockinette st. Repeat inc every 4th-4th-6th-6th row 2 more times = 97-109-121-133 sts. Work inc sts in stockinette st.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK PATTERN AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
PATTERN:
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work the first 2 rows of A.1, then work as follows from RS: 3 sts in stockinette st, A.5, K 1 and A.1 as before until 7 sts remain, 1 st in garter st, K 1, A.2, 3 sts in stockinette st. Diagrams A.2/A.5 are displaced 1 st towards mid back on every row from RS, i.e. work 1 st less of A.1 on every other row - see DIAGRAM A.1. When A.2 and A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue displacement with A.3 and A.6. Work the twisted YOs in A.3/A.6 in to PATTERN 1 – see explanation above.
INCREASE:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 3 sts in stockinette st as follows: Inc 1 st every 4th row 6-9-13-16 times, then 1 st every other row 19-13-6-0 times = 147-153-159-165 sts. Work the inc sts in to pattern 1.

When all inc are done, cast on 4 new sts in each side of piece for sleeve at end of the next 2 rows = 155-161-167-173 sts. Piece measures approx. 39-40-42-43 cm / 15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17". Work the new sts in garter st. Continue with pattern as before.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK PATTERN AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
PATTERN:
When 1 st remains between lace rows A.3 and A.6, work A.8 over A.3, A.6 and the 1 st between them. When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 57-64-70-77 cm / 22½"-25 1/4"-27½"-30½". Now continue piece in pattern 1.
DECREASE:
When piece measures 61-63-67-69 cm / 24"-24 3/4"-26½"-27", work the 4 sts in garter st, then slip them on 1 stitch holder, work the rest of row, repeat on next row = 147-153-159-165 sts. Then slip sts on 1 stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as follows: Work the first 4 sts, then slip them on 1 stitch holder, work the rest of row. Repeat in each side of piece on every row 6-5-4-4 more times, then work the first 2 sts, then slip them on a stitch holder, work the rest of row. Repeat in each side of piece on every row 7-9-12-13 more times = 48-48-50-52 sts on the thread for each shoulder and 59-65-67-69 sts on needle. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 74-77-83-85 cm / 29"-30½"-32 3/4"-33½", bind off the middle 17-17-19-19 sts and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from neck bind off 1 st for neck. When all bind offs are done, 20-23-23-24 sts remain on needle for each shoulder. Piece measures approx. 76-79-85-88 cm / 30"-31"-33½"-34½". Cut the yarn.

SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Slip all sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-71-73-76 sts.
Now inc to avoid a tight shoulder, from RS as follows: K 20-23-25-28, * 1 YO, K 6 *, repeat from *-* the rest of row = 76-79-81-84 sts. K 1 row from WS, K YOs twisted. Work 1 ridge. Loosely bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 52-58-64-70 sts (includes 6 band sts) on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with Nepal. Work 2 ridges. Then work as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, A.1 3 times in total, 1 st in garter st, 3 sts in stockinette st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', inc 1 st in the side of piece at the end of row from RS inside 3 sts in stockinette st. Repeat inc every 4th-4th-6th-6th row 2 more times = 55-61-67-73 sts. Work inc sts in stockinette st.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK PATTERN AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
PATTERN:
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work the first 2 rows of A.1, then work as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, A.1 as before until 7 sts remain, 1 st in garter st, K 1, A.2, 3 sts in stockinette st. Diagram A.2 is displaced 1 st towards mid front on every row from RS, i.e. work 1 st less of A.1 on every other row - see DIAGRAM A.1. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue displacement with A.3. Work the twisted YOs in A.3 in to pattern 1. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
INCREASE:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st in the side of piece inside 3 sts in stockinette st as follows: Inc 1 st every 4th row 6-9-13-16 times, then 1 st every other row 19-13-6-0 times = 80-83-86-89 sts. Work the inc sts in to pattern 1.

When all inc are done, cast on 4 new sts in the side for sleeve at the end of next row from RS = 84-87-90-93 sts. Piece measures approx. 39-40-42-43 cm / 15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17". Work the new sts in garter st. Continue with pattern as before.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK PATTERN AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
PATTERN:
When A.3 meets band sts, work A.4 over A.3. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 57-64-70-77 cm / 22½"-25 1/4"-27½"-30½". Now continue piece in pattern 1 and garter st.
DECREASE:
When piece measures 61-63-67-69 cm / 24"-24 3/4"-26½"-27", adjust so that next row is from WS and work as follows: Work the first 4 sts in garter st in the side, then slip them on a stitch holder, work the rest of row = 80-83-86-89 sts. On next row from WS, slip sts on 1 stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as follows: Work the first 4 sts, then slip them on 1 stitch holder, work the rest of row. Repeat on every row from WS 6-5-4-4 more times, then work the first 2 sts, then slip them on a stitch holder, work the rest of row. Repeat on every row from WS 7-9-12-13 more times = 48-48-50-52 sts on stitch holder and 36-39-40-41 sts on needle. Cut the yarn.


SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Slip all sts from stitch holder back on needle = 84-87-90-93 sts.
Now inc to avoid a tight shoulder, from RS as follows: K 36-39-42-45, * 1 YO, K 6 *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. K 1 row from WS, K YOs twisted = 92-95-98-101 sts. Work 1 ridge. Then loosely cast off 76-79-81-84 sts towards the side = 16-16-17-17 sts remain for shawl collar.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Work from mid front: * 2 rows over all sts, work 2 rows over the first 12-12-13-13 sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 8-8-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3½"-3½" measured closest to the shoulder. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Work A.5-A.7 instead of A.2-A.4. Do not dec for buttonholes. When all inc are done, cast on 4 new sts in the side for sleeve at the end of row from WS. Work shoulder/sleeve from RS as follows: * K 6, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 36-39-42-45 sts remain, finish with K 36-39-42-45.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams in outer loops of edge sts up to and including the 4 inc sts in garter st. Sew shoulder seams in outer loops of edge sts from and with the 4 inc sts in garter st up to shawl collar. Sew shawl collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.10.2016
Correction in no of sts for shoulders on both BACK PIECE and FRONT PIECE.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts, K/P YO twisted, adjust according to pattern 1
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Ruth 09.10.2019 - 19:18:

I LOVE this design and would love to make it. Although, I consider myself a fairly experienced knitter I have had so much difficulty following the instructions that I finally gave up. I know how to read a pattern chart and had no problems with that however I am completely stuck on the first section "READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING-WORK PATTERN AND INC AT THE SAME TIME" is totally confusing me.

DROPS Design 10.10.2019 kl. 09:45:

Dear Ruth, you will now work following the diagrams as explained, but increase at the same time as described. When the increases are done, cast on 4 sts on each side and continue in pattern as before. Then you will have to work other diagrams and decrease as explained under next section. Happy knitting!

Tirzah 19.08.2019 - 10:20:

When you start the displacement between A.6 and A.1, are there supposed to be 2 stitches between the last yarn over/decrease stitch of A.5 and the first yarn over of A.1, or 3 stitch. EX: A.6 (yarn over, decrease times 3), then 2 stitched into A.1, then yarnover OR A.6, then 3 stitches into A.1, then yarnover. Thanks!

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 11:44:

Dear Tirzah, you start A.5 on row 3 in A.1, you will start A.6 on row 11 in A.1 and work: A.6 (= YO, K2 tog)x 3, then work A.1 = dec 2, K1, YO, etc... Happy knitting!

Sylvie Roy 07.08.2019 - 15:30:

Bonjour je suis du canada avez vous un magasin drops au canada et moi jai demander la grosseur du fils svp merci

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 09:14:

Bonjour Mme Roy, vous trouverez ici la liste des magasins DROPS au Canada/expédiant au Canada. Vous trouverez toutes les informations utiles sur nos fils dans leur nuancier. Bon tricot!

Sylvie Roy 06.08.2019 - 15:18:

Bonjour jaimerais savoir la grosseur du fils svp et si je prend une autre sorte de laine acrylique cela va til deranger parce que je ne peu pas prendre alpaga et laine merci

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 11:58:

Bonjour Mme Roy, Nous sommes en mesure de pouvoir proposer des modèles gratuits grâce à nos fils à tricoter et à crocheter vendus dans le monde entier. Vous comprendrez ainsi que nous ne pouvons que vous recommander d’utiliser l’une de nos qualités. N’hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS en France pour toute assistance au choix d'une alternative correspondant à vos besoins. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

Diane 25.08.2018 - 22:02:

I would like to know what sizes the pattern is for. S/M, L/XL, XXL, XXXL. What are the actual sizes??

DROPS Design 26.08.2018 kl. 07:54:

Hi Diane, The measurements for each size are shown in a diagram at the bottom of the pattern, Happy knitting!

Amandine 18.05.2018 - 16:46:

Bonjour je suis que au debut du modele . Je viens de tricoter les 2 cotes au point mousse . Ensuite pour le premier rang A1 j ai fais 3 maille en jersey , puis j ai repeter 6 fois le premier rang du diagramme A1 (1 jeté , 6 mailles endroit , une maille glisser 2 m ensemble a l endroit , faire glisser la maille sur les mailles ensemble , 6 maille endroit , 1 jeter ) et apres les 6 fois il me reste 10 mailles .. je ne comprends pas quoi faire merci

DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 08:04:

Bonjour Amandine, A.1 se lit en commençant en bas à droite et de droite à gauche sur l'endroit (de gauche à droite sur l'envers), il commence dans toutes les tailles par 1 m end, 1 jeté. En taille L/XL, vous avez 103 m: 3 m jersey, 6 fois A.1 (= 6x 16 m = 96 m), 1 m point mousse, 3 m jersey soit: 3+96+1+3= 103 m. Bon tricot!

Johanna 17.02.2018 - 09:59:

Hallo nochmal! Jetzt weiß ich es, da ist ein Fehler in der Anleitung. Es müssen 76 (-79-81-84) M Richtung Ärmel abgekettet werden (s. englische Anleitung), dann passt es. Viele Grüße!

DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 08:58:

Liebe Johanna, Sie sind ja recht, die deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Johanna 13.02.2018 - 09:21:

Liebes Drops Team, eine Frage zu dem Schalkragen: (rechtes Vorderteil, Gr.S, Schultern/Ärmel/Schalkragen) Wie komme ich von ca. 97M auf 16M? Laut der Anleitung sollen die ersten 48M abgekettet werden, aber dann bleiben doch noch 41M übrig, nicht 16... Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe!

Jeannie Cheatham 12.01.2018 - 18:48:

I love this pattern but cannot follow your instructions. Can you simply convert all the diagram instructions to plain English instructions without the diagrams? I would appreciate this.

DROPS Design 15.01.2018 kl. 10:57:

Dear Mrs Cheatham, there are only diagrams to this pattern, start reading diagram from RS from the bottom corner on the right side and read towards the left, read WS rows from the left towards the right. You will find key to diagrams just above them. Happy knitting!

CHEVALLIER Ursula 10.10.2017 - 00:55:

Quand est-ce-qu'il faut commencer avec le point phantasie 1 ? en même temps qu'avec A2 et A5 ?

DROPS Design 10.10.2017 kl. 09:54:

Bonjour Mme Chevalier, le point fantaisie 1 va se tricoter à partir du moment où on commence A.6 et A.3 (après A.2 et A.5), les jetés de A.6/A.3 vont se tricoter torse en point fantaisie 1 et le nombre de mailles en point fantaisie 1 va progressivement augmenter. Bon tricot!

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