Silver Dream Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket and hat with Norwegian pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 157-1
DROPS design: Pattern no u-732
Yarn group B
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JACKET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-92-100-110-124-134 cm / 34"-36"-39½"-43½"-48 3/4"-52 3/4"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-700-750 g color no 72, light pearl gray
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm /US 4 - for rib.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, NO 522: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 56/58 cm / 22"/22 3/4"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g color no 72, light pearl gray
50 g color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4 mm /US & - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 – for rib

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.65 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.65 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.10$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

ELEVATION:
Work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: NOTE! On every turn in the middle of piece slip 1st st, tighten yarn and continue to work. Beg mid back and work until 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and work until 37-41-46-49-49-53 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 37-41-46-49-49-53 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and work until 53-58-65-70-70-76 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 53-58-65-70-70-76 sts remain in the other side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Inc 1 st by making a YO before and after the 4 sts between markers on front piece/back piece and sleeves. K YO twisted on next row. Work the inc sts in the pattern.

PATTERN TIP:
Diagram A.3 shows how to work the 4 raglan sts to avoid large spaces between sts. After diagram work piece with light pearl gray until finished.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work neck edge and band at the end. Cast on 111-111-115-119-123-123 sts (includes 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with light pearl gray. P 1 row from WS. Continue with stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME on next row inc 12-28-36-40-36-52 sts evenly = 123-139-151-159-159-175 sts. P 1 row from WS. Then work ELEVATION - see explanation above - in the neck. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Then work 2 rows over all sts, next row is from RS.
Work 1 row and at the same time insert 8 markers and 5 strands in the piece as follows: Work 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts, insert a marker after these sts and insert a strand in the 2nd st from beg (= mid front on right front piece). Work 4 sts, insert a marker, work 6-7-7-8-8-10 sts, insert a strand in the last st on right needle (= mid st on sleeve). Work 5-6-6-7-7-9 sts, insert a marker. Work 4 sts, insert a marker, work 21-24-27-28-28-30 sts, insert a strand in the last st on right needle (= middle of back piece). Work 20-23-26-27-27-29 sts, insert a marker. Work 4 sts, insert a marker, work 6-7-7-8-8-10 sts, insert a strand in the last st on right needle (= middle of sleeve). Work 5-6-6-7-7-9 sts, insert a marker. Work 4 sts, insert a marker. Work 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts, insert a strand in next to last st (= mid front on left front piece).

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Now work PATTERN according to diagram A.2 - READ PATTERN TIP! NOTE: St with strand on back piece, front piece and sleeves should fit st with arrow in diagram. Count out towards the side (i.e. the pattern will not fit in transitions between body and sleeves).
AT THE SAME TIME inc for raglan in every transition between body and sleeves as follows - READ INCREASE TIP:
ON BODY: Inc every round 0-0-0-2-10-14 times in total, every other round 14-15-17-19-20-20 times in total and then every 4th round 6-6-5-4-2-2 times in total (= 81-89-97-105-119-131 sts on back piece and 42-46-50-54-61-67 sts on each front piece)
ON SLEEVE: Inc every other round 14-15-19-20-25-23 times in total and every 4th round 6-6-4-4-2-4 times in total (= 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts on sleeve). Piece measures approx. 19-19-19-20-21-22 cm / 7½"-7½"-7½"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" from cast-on edge at the front, now measure piece from here!
After all inc for raglan, there are 283-307-331-355-395-427 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: Work the first 42-46-50-54-61-67 sts (= front piece), slip the next 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts on stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts, work 81-89-97-105-119-131 sts (= back piece), slip the next 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts on stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts, work the remaining 42-46-50-54-61-67 sts (= front piece) = 181-197-213-233-261-285 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts under each sleeve. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side as before until piece measures approx. 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'' from cast-on edge at the front. Then inc 1 st by making a YO on each side of the middle 2 sts in each side (marker is in the middle of these sts), P YO twisted on next row (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'' 2 more times (= 3 times in total) = 193-209-225-245-273-297 sts.
Work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from cast-on edge at the front.
On next row from RS, inc 7 sts evenly in all sizes = 200-216-232-252-280-304 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain. Finish with P 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Work until rib measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Work piece in the round on circular needle in stockinette st. Slip sts from one stitch holder back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 (= 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts). Work in stockinette st and cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts at the end of row = 67-71-75-81-87-91 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under the sleeve. When piece measures approx. 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts under sleeve (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts). Switch to double pointed needles when needed. Repeat dec every 3½-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" 8-9-10-12-15-16 more times (= 9-10-11-13-16-17 times in total) = 49-51-53-55-55-57 sts. When piece measures 41-42-43-43-42-42 cm / 16"-16½"-17"-17"-16½"-16½", inc 7-5-7-5-9-7 st evenly = 56-56-60-60-64-64 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work rib (K 2, P 2) until piece measures 45-46-47-47-46-46 cm / 17 3/4"-18"-18½"-18½"-18"-18" from where new sts were cast on. Bind off with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Work band back and forth on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Pick up 120-124-128-132-136-140 sts, (no of sts must be divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st on left front piece with light pearl gray. Work rib as follows from WS: 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2 and 1 st in garter st. Then work K over K and P over P until rib measures 3 cm / 1''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left band but when band measures approx. 1.5 cm / ½'', dec for 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly (dec for buttonholes in P sections seen from RS). 1 buttonhole = P 2 tog and make 1 YO – top buttonhole should be approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8'' from the top (there should also be 1 buttonhole on neck edge), the other buttonholes should be approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' apart. The distance after last buttonhole down towards edge is larger.

NECK EDGE:
Beg at the edge on right band at the top. Use circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and pick up 128-128-132-136-140-140 sts (no of sts must be divisible by 4) with light pearl grey around the entire edge and over left band. Work rib as follows (1st row = WS): 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2 and 1 st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P with 1 st in garter st in each side of piece. When neck edge measures 1 cm / 3/8'', dec for 1 buttonhole over the other buttonholes on right band. Continue rib until neck edge measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew holes tog under sleeves and fasten yarn.

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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 116 sts with light pearl gray on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 round with pearl gray while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 108 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (= 9 repetitions on round). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with light pearl gray and stockinette st. Work 1 round AT THE SAME TIME insert 9 markers in the hat with 12 sts between every marker. On next round, dec 1 st after every marker by K 2 tog (= 9 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round 10 times in total = 18 sts. On next round K tog all sts 2 by 2 = 9 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. The hat measures approx. 25 cm / 9 3/4'' vertically.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.11.2015
under JACKET and at det end: ...\\\" and work 1 st.\\\" ... is deleted.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = light pearl grey
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Tanja wrote:

Hallo! Wenn es beim höheren Halsrand heisst" an der hinteren Mitte anfangen", heisst das, ich soll nach der vorherigen Runde den Faden abschneiden und mittig neu beginnen?

30.09.2022 - 07:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tanja, nach der letzten verkürzten Reihen, wenden Sie und stricken Sie alle Maschen bis Ende dieser Reihen, wenden Sie und die Reihe über alle Maschen stricken, wenden Sie und dann wie erklärt unter JACKE weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.09.2022 kl. 08:27

country flag Gitte wrote:

Hej. \r\nJeg kan Ikke få opskriften til , at gå op i 3x XL. Det er i de forhøjning og der hvor mærketråd og mærkerne skal sættes. Vil ikke godt uddybe det for mig. Og skrive hvordan jeg skal starte med forhøjning og hvor de mærketråd og mærker skal være. Håber at i kan hjælpe mig.Hilsen Gitte F.

17.12.2021 - 18:32

country flag Gerd Ingrid Olsen wrote:

Er det forskjell mellom denne og \"Narvik Jacket by DROPS Design\"? \r\n\r\nhvilken modell er lettest å strikke?

03.01.2020 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gerd, vælg den du synes bedst om, bare du følger opskriften, så skal du nok finde ud af det :)

10.01.2020 kl. 15:49

country flag Ann-Kristin wrote:

Om jag gör som det står i mönstret blir knapphålet väldigt litet. Knappen i mönstret är 20 mm o knapphålet mycket mindre.

20.08.2019 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann- Kristin. Ett kast til knappehull skal være nok til knappen som skal brukes. En strikket stolpe med knappehull er tøyelig, men kan være trang de første gangene. Om du ønsker et større knappehull, kan du gjøre 2 kast om pinnen istedenfor 1 kast. God Fornøyelse.

09.09.2019 kl. 11:04

country flag Rebecka wrote:

Hej! Jag förstår inte hur jag ska komma vidare. Jag har precis satt ut de olika markörerna och ska nu börja sticka efter mönstret, A.3. Min fråga är vart jag ska öka för raglan? Förstår inte förklaringen under ökningstipset, att det ska ökas en maska före och efter de 4 maskorna som sitter mellan markörerna på främst/bakst och ärmarna. Skulle ni kunna förklara vart jag ska göra ökningarna? Hur många ökningar blir det på vart annat varv? Stickar st. medium. Tack!

18.08.2019 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du ökar 1 maska på varje sida om de 4 maskorna i raglanlinjen (dessa maskor sitter mellan markörerna). I storlek M ökar du totalt 15 gånger på vartannat varv och 6 gånger på vart 4:e varv på fram -och bakstycket. På ärmarna ökar du 15 gånger på vartannat varv och sedan 6 gånger på vart 4:e varv. Det ökas alltså inte alla gånger samtidigt på fram- och bakst och ärmarna.

19.08.2019 kl. 18:05

country flag Solvor wrote:

Hei. Hvis jeg ønsker å strikke denne jakken i et tynnere garn, for at jakken ikke skal bli så tykk. Hvordan omregner jeg da mønsteret? Hvilket garn kan da anbefales? Mvh Solvor

05.04.2019 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Solvor. Hvis du vil strikke den i et tynnere garn vil du få en annen strikkefasthet enn angitt. Du må derfor regne om alle maskeantall i genseren, og samtidig passe på at mønsteret går opp i hele rapporter. Det er selvfølgelig ikke noe i veien for at du gjør dette, men vær klar over at det krever en del regning. Ta utgangspunkt i strikkefastheten din i det andre garnet, og målene du ønsker på plagget. Cm-målet i bredden kan du gange med strikkefastheten for å få maskeantall. For en oversikt over våre tynneste garn, se på garnene i garngruppe A. God fornøyelse

08.04.2019 kl. 15:17

Christiane wrote:

Danke fuer die Antwort. Wie oft stricke ich 'jede 2. Reihe' bevor ich anfange, 'jede 4. Reihe' zu stricken? (Ich stricke die Jacke in Groesse M) Ist mit 'jede 2. Reihe' jede 2. Hin-Reihe gemeint oder insgesamt jede 2. Reihe? Und kommen diese Zunahmen zusaetzlich zu den Zunahmen fuer die Raglanaermel (je eine M vor und hinter den 4 Raglan M)?

09.03.2018 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, in der Größe M wird es 15 Mal in jeder 2. Reihe und 6 Mal in jeder 4. Reihe zugenommen. In jeder 2. Reihe = 1 Reihe mit Zunahmen, 1 Reihe ohne Zunahmen stricken, diese beide Reihe insgesamt 15 Mal wiederholen. In jeder 4. Reihe zunehmen = 1 Reihe mit Zunahmen, 3 Reihen ohne Zunahmen stricken, diese 4 Reihe insgesamt 6 Mal wiederholen. Bei den Ärmeln wird es in jeder 2. Reihe 15 x und in jeder 4. Reihe 6x zugenommen, dh unterschiedlich von Rumfteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.03.2018 kl. 14:25

Christiane wrote:

Hei, wie soll ich diese Anweisung verstehen: 'Am RUMPFTEIL: In jeder R insgesamt 0-0-0-2-10-14 x, danach in jeder 2. R 14-15-17-19-20-20 x' Wie viele solcher Reihen soll man jeweils stricken? Was bedeutet das x am Ende? Herzlichen Dank und viele Gruesse, Christiane

09.03.2018 - 10:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, je nach der Größe werden Sie unterschiedlich stricken, z.B. in der 1. Größe wird es für Raglan in jeder 2. Reihe 14 Mal (= x) zugenommen, in die letzte Größe wird es in jeder Reihe 14 Mal dann in jeder 2. Reihe 20 Mal zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.03.2018 kl. 11:31

country flag Christiane Martin wrote:

Hei, wie soll ich diese Anweisung verstehen: 'Am RUMPFTEIL: In jeder R insgesamt 0-0-0-2-10-14 x, danach in jeder 2. R 14-15-17-19-20-20 x' Wie viele solcher Reihen soll man jeweils stricken? Was bedeutet das x am Ende? Herzlichen Dank und viele Gruesse, Christiane

09.03.2018 - 10:27

country flag Torunn Mari Rørvik wrote:

Hei, jeg skal strikke denne i str M. Forstår ikke helt hvor jeg skal plassere merketrådene og merkene. kan du prøve å forklare på en enklere måte? er det korrekt å merke etter følgende masker: 25-2-4-7-6-4-24-23-4-7-6-4-25-og nest siste maske?

28.02.2018 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Torunn. Husk det er forskjell mellom merketrådene og merkene. Du setter 8 merketråder og 5 merker, merketrådene setter du etter 25.-29.-42.-46.-93.-97.-110. og etter 114. maske. De 5 merkene setter du i 2.-36.-70.-104. og i 138. maske. God Fornøyelse!

07.03.2018 kl. 08:12

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