DROPS / 157 / 1

Silver Dream Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket and hat with Norwegian pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-732
Yarn group B
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JACKET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-700-750 g colour no 72, light pearl grey
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, NO 522: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 72, light pearl grey
50 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for rib.

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (30)

100% Wool
from 1.30 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 1.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 1.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

ELEVATION:
Work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: NOTE! On every turn in the middle of piece slip 1st st, tighten yarn and continue to work. Beg mid back and work until 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and work until 37-41-46-49-49-53 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 37-41-46-49-49-53 sts remain in the other side. Turn, tighten yarn and work until 53-58-65-70-70-76 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until 53-58-65-70-70-76 sts remain in the other side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Inc 1 st by making a YO before and after the 4 sts between markers on front piece/back piece and sleeves. K YO twisted on next row. Work the inc sts in the pattern.

PATTERN TIP:
Diagram A.3 shows how to work the 4 raglan sts to avoid large spaces between sts. After diagram work piece with light pearl grey until finished.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work neck edge and band at the end. Cast on 111-111-115-119-123-123 sts (incl 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above) on circular needle size 4 mm with light pearl grey. P 1 row from WS. Continue with stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME on next row inc 12-28-36-40-36-52 sts evenly = 123-139-151-159-159-175 sts. P 1 row from WS. Then work ELEVATION - see explanation above - in the neck. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Then work 2 rows over all sts, next row is from RS.
Work 1 row and at the same time insert 8 markers and 5 strands in the piece as follows: Work 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts, insert a marker after these sts and insert a strand in the 2nd st from beg (= mid front on right front piece). Work 4 sts, insert a marker, work 6-7-7-8-8-10 sts, insert a strand in the last st on right needle (= mid st on sleeve). Work 5-6-6-7-7-9 sts, insert a marker. Work 4 sts, insert a marker, work 21-24-27-28-28-30 sts, insert a strand in the last st on right needle (= middle of back piece). Work 20-23-26-27-27-29 sts, insert a marker. Work 4 sts, insert a marker, work 6-7-7-8-8-10 sts, insert a strand in the last st on right needle (= middle of sleeve). Work 5-6-6-7-7-9 sts, insert a marker. Work 4 sts, insert a marker. Work 22-25-28-29-29-31 sts, insert a strand in next to last st (= mid front on left front piece).

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Now work PATTERN according to diagram A.2 - READ PATTERN TIP! NOTE: St with strand on back piece, front piece and sleeves should fit st with arrow in diagram. Count out towards the side (i.e. the pattern will not fit in transitions between body and sleeves).
AT THE SAME TIME inc for raglan in every transition between body and sleeves as follows - READ INCREASE TIP:
ON BODY: Inc every round 0-0-0-2-10-14 times in total, every other round 14-15-17-19-20-20 times in total and then every 4th round 6-6-5-4-2-2 times in total (= 81-89-97-105-119-131 sts on back piece and 42-46-50-54-61-67 sts on each front piece)
ON SLEEVE: Inc every other round 14-15-19-20-25-23 times in total and every 4th round 6-6-4-4-2-4 times in total (= 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts on sleeve). Piece measures approx. 19-19-19-20-21-22 cm from cast-on edge at the front.
After all inc for raglan, there are 283-307-331-355-395-427 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: Work the first 42-46-50-54-61-67 sts (= front piece), slip the next 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts on stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts, work 81-89-97-105-119-131 sts (= back piece), slip the next 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts on stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts, work the remaining 42-46-50-54-61-67 sts (= front piece) = 181-197-213-233-261-285 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts under each sleeve. Then work in stocking st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side as before until piece measures approx. 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm from cast-on edge at the front. Then inc 1 st by making a YO on each side of the middle 2 sts in each side (marker is in the middle of these sts), P YO twisted on next row (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm 2 more times (= 3 times in total) = 193-209-225-245-273-297 sts.
Work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from cast-on edge at the front. On next row from RS, inc 7 sts evenly in all sizes = 200-216-232-252-280-304 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain. Finish with P 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Work until rib measures approx. 4 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Work piece in the round on circular needle in stocking st. Slip sts from one stitch holder back on circular needle size 4 mm (= 59-63-67-71-77-81 sts). Work in stocking st and cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts at the end of row = 67-71-75-81-87-91 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under the sleeve. When piece measures approx. 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts under sleeve (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts). Switch to double pointed needles when needed. Repeat dec every 3½-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm 8-9-10-12-15-16 more times (= 9-10-11-13-16-17 times in total) = 49-51-53-55-55-57 sts. When piece measures 41-42-43-43-42-42 cm, inc 7-5-7-5-9-7 st evenly = 56-56-60-60-64-64 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (K 2, P 2) until piece measures 45-46-47-47-46-46 cm from where new sts were cast on. Cast off with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Work band back and forth on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Pick up 120-124-128-132-136-140 sts, (no of sts must be divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st on left front piece with light pearl grey. Work rib as follows from WS: 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2 and 1 st in garter st. Then work K over K and P over P until rib measures 3 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left band but when band measures approx. 1.5 cm, dec for 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly (dec for buttonholes in P sections seen from RS). 1 buttonhole = P 2 tog and make 1 YO – top buttonhole should be approx. 6 cm from the top (there should also be 1 buttonhole on neck edge), the other buttonholes should be approx. 8 cm apart. The distance after last buttonhole down towards edge is larger.

NECK EDGE:
Beg at the edge on right band at the top. Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and pick up 128-128-132-136-140-140 sts (no of sts must be divisible by 4) with light pearl grey around the entire edge and over left band. Work rib as follows (1st row = WS): 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2 and 1 st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P with 1 st in garter st in each side of piece. When neck edge measures 1 cm, dec for 1 buttonhole over the other buttonholes on right band. Continue rib until neck edge measures approx. 2 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew holes tog under sleeves and fasten yarn.

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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 116 sts with light pearl grey on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures approx. 4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. K 1 round with pearl grey while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 108 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (= 9 repetitions on round). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with light pearl grey and stocking st. Work 1 round AT THE SAME TIME insert 9 markers in the hat with 12 sts between every marker. On next round, dec 1 st after every marker by K 2 tog (= 9 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round 10 times in total = 18 sts. On next round K tog all sts 2 by 2 = 9 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. The hat measures approx. 25 cm vertically.

This pattern has been corrected. .

under JACKET and at det end:
...\" and work 1 st.\" ... is deleted.
Updated online: 30.11.2015

Diagram

= off white
= light pearl grey


Comments (30)

Leave your comment!

Christiane 09.03.2018 - 13:46:

Danke fuer die Antwort. Wie oft stricke ich 'jede 2. Reihe' bevor ich anfange, 'jede 4. Reihe' zu stricken? (Ich stricke die Jacke in Groesse M) Ist mit 'jede 2. Reihe' jede 2. Hin-Reihe gemeint oder insgesamt jede 2. Reihe? Und kommen diese Zunahmen zusaetzlich zu den Zunahmen fuer die Raglanaermel (je eine M vor und hinter den 4 Raglan M)?

DROPS Design 09.03.2018 kl. 14:25:

Liebe Christiane, in der Größe M wird es 15 Mal in jeder 2. Reihe und 6 Mal in jeder 4. Reihe zugenommen. In jeder 2. Reihe = 1 Reihe mit Zunahmen, 1 Reihe ohne Zunahmen stricken, diese beide Reihe insgesamt 15 Mal wiederholen. In jeder 4. Reihe zunehmen = 1 Reihe mit Zunahmen, 3 Reihen ohne Zunahmen stricken, diese 4 Reihe insgesamt 6 Mal wiederholen. Bei den Ärmeln wird es in jeder 2. Reihe 15 x und in jeder 4. Reihe 6x zugenommen, dh unterschiedlich von Rumfteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christiane 09.03.2018 - 10:28:

Hei, wie soll ich diese Anweisung verstehen: 'Am RUMPFTEIL: In jeder R insgesamt 0-0-0-2-10-14 x, danach in jeder 2. R 14-15-17-19-20-20 x' Wie viele solcher Reihen soll man jeweils stricken? Was bedeutet das x am Ende? Herzlichen Dank und viele Gruesse, Christiane

DROPS Design 09.03.2018 kl. 11:31:

Liebe Christiane, je nach der Größe werden Sie unterschiedlich stricken, z.B. in der 1. Größe wird es für Raglan in jeder 2. Reihe 14 Mal (= x) zugenommen, in die letzte Größe wird es in jeder Reihe 14 Mal dann in jeder 2. Reihe 20 Mal zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christiane Martin 09.03.2018 - 10:27:

Hei, wie soll ich diese Anweisung verstehen: 'Am RUMPFTEIL: In jeder R insgesamt 0-0-0-2-10-14 x, danach in jeder 2. R 14-15-17-19-20-20 x' Wie viele solcher Reihen soll man jeweils stricken? Was bedeutet das x am Ende? Herzlichen Dank und viele Gruesse, Christiane

Torunn Mari Rørvik 28.02.2018 - 20:29:

Hei, jeg skal strikke denne i str M. Forstår ikke helt hvor jeg skal plassere merketrådene og merkene. kan du prøve å forklare på en enklere måte? er det korrekt å merke etter følgende masker: 25-2-4-7-6-4-24-23-4-7-6-4-25-og nest siste maske?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 08:12:

Hei Torunn. Husk det er forskjell mellom merketrådene og merkene. Du setter 8 merketråder og 5 merker, merketrådene setter du etter 25.-29.-42.-46.-93.-97.-110. og etter 114. maske. De 5 merkene setter du i 2.-36.-70.-104. og i 138. maske. God Fornøyelse!

Sophia 23.01.2018 - 08:52:

Unfortunately at the beginning.i knit size s 111st.ihave 22st in each front side and back side 21st strand 20st .in the front side I have a strand in the 2ndst .pattern say to fit arrow st in stand st , but I have 22 st and patten 12. 12+12= 24st. And the back piece had total41 st with strand in the middle. How to adjust the st with arrow in the middle of st? Sorry , it's the first pattern that I don't understand .thank you for your patience

DROPS Design 23.01.2018 kl. 13:31:

Dear Sophia, you can read here how to center a diagram on a piece. Happy knitting!

Sophia 22.01.2018 - 19:26:

I would like to ask if i am doing something wrong because patterns sts doesn't fit to my st and the inc sts too.it is my first time that I knit top down.i knit size small. I would appreciate your help. Thank you.

DROPS Design 23.01.2018 kl. 08:19:

Dear Sophia, could you please give us more information about the size and until where you are working and you are stuck. Thank you.

Sophia 19.01.2018 - 21:09:

What do you mean in "jacket explanation"insert 8 markers and 5strands in the piece? How I will do this? Any video?

DROPS Design 20.01.2018 kl. 01:02:

Dear Sophia, it means you put stitchmarkers on the knitting needles between the stitches (or if it is particilarly mentioned in some cases into a stitch. Strands are pieces of yarns we also use to mark certain places in the knitting, and/or between stitches. Use a piece of leftover yarn as directed. Happy Knitting!

Dolly Singh 14.08.2017 - 10:40:

Hei, hvordan strikker jeg videre mønster etter diag A.2? Hvor og når skal jeg øke masker? Hvor mange av gangen? Får ikke dette til å stemme.

DROPS Design 14.08.2017 kl. 14:06:

Hei Dolly. Hei Les etter avsnittet: «LES HELE NESTE AVSNITT FØR DET STRIKKES!» og «Etter alle økninger til raglan er det totalt ...». På neste pinne fra retten legges det opp nye masker for erme og settes merketråder. Deretter strikkes det GLATTSTRIKK med 1 kant-m rille i hver side som før til arb måler ca 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm fra oppleggskanten foran. Deretter økes det med 1 m ved å lage et kast på hver siden av de 2 midterste m i hver side (merketråden sitter midt mellom disse m). LES videre i oppskriften for tydeligere informasjon. God Fornøyelse!

Kirsten 25.06.2017 - 17:05:

Jeg kan ikke få antallet af masker på ærmet str. L til at passe, man starter med 13 masker, udtager 2 x 19 og 2x 4 svare til 59 masker, men der står at man slutter med 67 masker, skal de 8 raglan masker regnes med, eller hvad gør jeg forkert?

DROPS Design 26.06.2017 kl. 14:22:

Hei Kirsten. Ja, du skal telle de 8 raglan maskene med. 57 + 8 = 67 masker. God Fornøyelse!

Marie 30.10.2016 - 11:19:

Hallo. Ich stricke den Pullover und bin fast am Ende von A.2, habe aber noch nicht alle Raglanzunahmen gemacht. Das Muster hat 44 Runden, ich stricke Grösse L. Wenn ich bei den Ärmeln 19 x jede 2. R. und dann 4 x jede 4. R- aufnehme, komme ich auf 54 R-. Somit müsste ich 10 R. ohne Muster stricken, um die verlangten 331 Maschen zu erreichen. Habe ich bei den Zunahmen etwas falsch gemacht oder ist das korrekt so?

DROPS Design 31.10.2016 kl. 10:50:

Liebe Marie, wenn A.2 ist gestrickt, stricken Sie noch weiter ohne Muster aber mit den Raglanzunhamen wie beschrieben bis Sie die 331 M. haben.

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