DROPS Baby / 25 / 7

Smarty Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted pants in garter st for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature – 4 years.

Tags: pants,
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-046-by
Yarn group A
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: (30) 40-48-50-54 (56-58) cm / (11¾”) 15¾”-19”-19¾”-21¼” (22”-22¾”)
Full length: (28) 32-36-42-46 (52-59) cm / (11”) 12½”-14¼”-16½”-18” (20½”-23¼”)

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 100-100-150-150 (150-150) g color no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16” and 24”) SIZE 3 mm / 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16’’) SIZE 2.5 mm/US 1.5 - for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Tighten yarn a little extra when turning in the middle of row to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

Inc on 1 round with P and inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

Dec on 1 round with K. Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on (84) 112-136-140-152 (156-164) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino - beg of round = mid back.
Work rib = K 2/P 2. When rib measures (2) 2-3-3-3 (3-4) cm / (3/4”) 3/4”-1”-1”-1”-1” (1”-1½”), work an elevation in rib at the back of pants as follows: Beg mid back and work (4) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) sts, turn piece - READ KNITTING TIP.
Work (8) 12-16-16-16 (16-16) sts and turn piece. Work (12) 18-24-24-24 (24-24) sts and turn piece. Work (16) 24-32-32-32 (32-32) sts and turn piece.
Continue rib like this by working (4) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) sts more on every turn 10 more times (= 14 short rows).
Then continue rib in the round over all sts.
When rib measures (6) 7-8-8-8 (8-9) cm / (2½”) 2¾”-3”-3”-3”-3” (3”-3½”) (measured mid front), switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec (12) 16-20-20-22 (22-24) sts evenly = (72) 96-116-120-130 (134-140) sts. Then work in GARTER ST in the round on needle - see explanation above.
When piece measures (12) 14-14-17-18 (19-20) cm / (4¾”) 5½”-5½”-6 ¾”-7” (7½”-8”) from cast-on edge (measured mid front), insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after (36) 48-58-60-65 (67-70) sts (marks mid front and mid back on pants).
Then inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 4th round (3) 3-4-4-4 (4-4) more times (= (4) 4-5-5-5 (5-5) inc in total) = (88) 112-136-140-150 (154-160) sts.
After last inc piece measures approx. (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm / (6”) 6¾”-7”-8¼”-8¾” (9”-9½”) from cast-on edge (measured mid front).

Beg mid back, work (44) 56-68-70-75 (77-80) sts and slip the other sts on 1 stitch holder.
Work GARTER ST in the round on needle - insert 1 marker at beg of round (= inside of leg).
When leg has been worked for (1) 1-1-1-1 (2-2) cm / (½”) ½”-½”-½”-½” (3/4”-3/4”) – make sure that next round is a K round, dec 1 st on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec (4) 8-11-10-10 (9-8) more times (= (5) 9-12-11-11 (10-9) dec in total) as follows:
SIZE PREMATURE: Every 8th round.
SIZE 0/1 + 1/3 MONTHS: Every 4th round.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: Every 6th round.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: Every 8th round.
SIZE 2 YEARS: Every 10th round.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: Every 14th round.

After dec there are (34) 38-44-48-53 (57-62) sts on needle. Continue to work until piece measures (24) 27-30-36-40 (46-52) cm / (9½”) 10½”-11¾”-14¼”-15¾” (18”-20½”) from cast-on edge and down (measured mid front).
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc (10) 10-8-8-11 (11-10) sts evenly = (44) 48-52-56-64 (68-72) sts.
Then work rib = K 2/P 2 until pants measures (28) 32-36-42-46 (52-59) cm / (11”) 12½”-14¼”-16½”-18” (20½”-23¼”) from the waist (rib measures approx. (4) 5-6-6-6 (6-7) cm / (1½”) 2”-2½”-2½”-2½”-2½” (2½”-2¾”)).
Loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Work the other leg the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Helle 15.10.2020 - 13:46:

Jeg Slår -136 m op ( omg beg = midt bagpå) forhøjning i Ribben bag på bukserne således: Start midt bagpå og strik-8-m, vend arb Strik 16-m og vend arb. Strik 24 m og vend arb. Strik-32-) m og vend arb. Fortsæt Ribben således ved at strikke-8-m mere for hver gang der vendes, 10 gange til (= 14 forkortede p). Derefter fortsættes Ribben over alle m igen. DERFOR har jeg fået start omg begyndelse til at være 2/3 højre end den anden side . Hvad gør jeg? kan jeg sende et billed?

DROPS Design 16.10.2020 kl. 09:27:

Hej Helle. Det ska var likt på båda sidor så då har du nog dessvärre gjort något fel. Har du sett denna video? Det stickas 10 m mer per vändning och ett mindre antal forkortade pinner, men det är samma princip. Mvh DROPS Design

Nasreen Syed 13.09.2020 - 17:16:

I have started with the pants when we are working on the elevation so i have 112 st so when i am starting from one end and knit and turn so i am coming back to where i have started from so the elevation is kind of wierd because we are not doing the whole round so one end is kind of lower so i dont know what is going on i tried with the double end needle and also the circular nothing is working can you please help Thanks

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 09:08:

Dear Mrs Syed, to make the elevation you have to work short rows (= back and forth) over the stitches on back piece to get the back piece being higher than the front piece - the video below shows how to work an elevation on mid back. Happy knitting!

Nasreen Syed 07.08.2020 - 19:26:

Meaning joining both ends this terminology is more easier for international knitters Thanks for replying if you can answer this will highly appreciate

DROPS Design 10.08.2020 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Syed, pants is entirely worked in the round from the waist down to the crotch, then each leg is worked separately also in the round. This video shows how to work stocking stitch in the round and this one how to work garter stitch in the round. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

Nasreen Syed 05.08.2020 - 19:36:

Hi this is nasreen syed now doing the pants wanted to find when we are starting the project and casting the st on the circular needle are we joining and knitting in tounds like one piece if yes then its really tough to knit please advise i would appreciate if you can reply soon i am in the midfle of project thank you

DROPS Design 06.08.2020 kl. 07:12:

Hi Nasreen, Yes you work the piece in the round. After casting on work the first cast-on stitch which then makes a round . Happy knitting!

Susanne 27.06.2020 - 23:58:

Hallo, Ich stricke gerade die Hose, jetzt ist mit beim Stricken der verkürzten Reihen aufgefallen, dass der Bauchbund laut Anleitung nur eine Höhe von 2 cm hat (Rippenmuster) ich habe das jetzt treudoof gemacht. Aber die Hose auf dem Foto zur Anleitung hat einen deutlichen breiteren Bauchbund. Könnte es sein, das da etwas mit der Anleitung nicht stimmt oder die Anleitung vielleicht nicht zum Foto passt? Herzliche Grüße

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 08:17:

Liebe Susanne, es wird im Rippenmuster gestrickt bis die Arbeit (6) 7-8-8-8 (8-9) cm in der vorderen Mitte misst - dh nach den verkürzten Reihen für die Erhöhung stricken Sie das Rippenmuster weiter über alle Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maria Ines Teresa Manigot 25.06.2020 - 15:20:

Hay tutorial de tejido a 2 agujas ?\r\nPara \r\nropita de bebes desde 1° tamaño?\r\nPor ejemplo :batita y pantalón con pechera.\r\nGRACIAS .Aguardo respuesta.\r\nMarinés.

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 23:33:

Hola María Ines, por el momento no hay vídeos tutoriales de patrones completos para ropa de bebé. Puedes consultar los tutoriales disponibles bajo el siguiente link: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?action=search&show=head&uc=26&lang=es

Inga 09.06.2020 - 23:16:

Hallo, wenn ich im Rumpf beiderseits der Markierungen einen Umschlag mache und diese dann in der folgenden Runde rechts verschränkt abstricke entsteht bei mir ein Loch. Soll zwischen den Umschlägen jeweils eine Masche links getrickt werden um das zu verhindern? Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 10.06.2020 kl. 06:33:

Liebe Inga, versuchen Sie die Umschläge nicht zu locker zu arbeiten, sonnst können Sie auch mit einer anderen Technik zunehmen wenn das Loch immer zu groß aussieht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Danielle Maddocks 02.05.2020 - 12:48:

Hi, I’ve got to the first leg but I’m finding it hard to start the leg on the round without creating a ladder. Do you have any advice on what to do? Thank you.

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 11:42:

Dear Mrs Maddocks, when knitting garter stitch in the round, you can avoid any ladder by tighting the yarn at the transition between the last stitch on the round and the firrst stitch next round. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Sanne 26.04.2020 - 22:12:

Hej, der står man skal måle længden foran og ned til rib starter i benet. Men der er jo mange måder at måle på og det giver forskellige længder ... Kan I mon beskrive lidt mere om hvordan det skal måles? “Lige linie” - skal målebåndet så ramme midt i skridtet og så måler man ned til vandret, dér hvor strikkepindene laver en linie ud?

DROPS Design 29.04.2020 kl. 10:14:

Hej Sanne, du ser målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften, alle disse mål er målt lige over eller lige ned. God fornøjelse!

Danielle Maddocks 26.03.2020 - 19:34:

Hi, which set of knitting needles do I need to use if I am making this for a 0/1 month old? Thank you, Danielle

DROPS Design 27.03.2020 kl. 08:16:

Hi Danielle, You need double pointed needles and short circular needle size 3 mm for the body of the piece and double pointed needles and short circular needle size 2.5 mm for the rib. Remember to check your knitting tension. Happy crafting!

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