DROPS Baby / 25 / 11

Bedtime Stories by DROPS Design

Knitted wrap cardigan in garter st and crochet edge for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years

  • Bedtime Stories / DROPS Baby 25-11 - Knitted wrap cardigan in garter st and crochet edge for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-045-by
Yarn group A
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: (36) 42-48-52-56 (60-66) cm / (14¼”) 16½”-19”-20½”-22” (23½”-26”)
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (14¼”-15¾”)

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 02, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 23, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24’’ or 32’’) SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/ C - for edges and ties.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 2.95 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows.

Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg on front piece, cast on sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Work the other front piece, place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

LOOSELY cast on (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS).
When piece measures (9) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm / (3½”) 4¾”-6¼”-6¼”-6¾” (8”-9”) (make sure that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st for neck inside 1 edge st at beg of row - READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (17) 17-21-23-25 (27-31) more times (= (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) dec in total), then dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 2 times in total.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm / (4¾”) 6”-7½”-8”-8¼” (9½”-10½”) cast on new sts at the end of row towards the side of sleeve as follows: (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) sts (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) sts 1 time.
After all inc and dec there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) sts on the needle for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue in garter st until piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (14¼”-15¾”).
Insert 1 marker in the middle sts = mid on top of shoulder. Piece is measured from here – AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of row towards the neck, repeat inc on next row towards neck = (46) 56-67-74-83 (94-106) sts (last row = WS).
Put all sts on a stitch holder.

Cast on and work as right but reversed (i.e. dec for neck inside 1 edge st at the end of row from RS (instead of at the beg of row from RS). In addition K 1 row from WS at the end of front piece after casting on sts towards the neck so that last row on both right and left front piece is worked from WS.

Work left front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS), cast on (8) 8-10-10-12 (14-16) new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS) = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) sts.
Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle.
When piece measures (6) 7-7-7½-8 (9-9) cm / (2½”) 2¾”-2¾”-2 7/8”-3 1/8” (3½”-3½”), bind off sleeve sts as follows: bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) sts 1 time and (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) sts (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) sts on needle.
Continue until piece measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (14¼”-15¾”) – fold piece at the markers on shoulders and check that front and back pieces are the same length – loosely bind off.

Sew side and sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts.

Work on hook size 2.5 mm/C with light beige around the entire opening on cardigan as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, skip approx. 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* but in a corner where dec for neck beg work tie as follows: 1 sc in tip, then ch for approx. 20-25 cm / 8”-9¾”, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch on return, then work 1 sc in tip of front piece again, continue crochet border around the cardigan until the tip of the other front piece, crochet another tie as on first front piece, continue around the rest of the cardigan and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 sc in first ch, * ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, skip 1 sc + 1 ch + 1 sc, work 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (make sure to work over ties so that they are at the bottom), finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Work 2nd round the same way at the bottom around both sleeves.
Then work another tie, similar to the one in each tip, on the inside of the seam in the right side and on the outside of the seam in the left side – make sure that the ties are at the same height as tips on front pieces.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.04.2018
Improved instructions regarding marker on shoulder and crochet edge around sleeves


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (184)

country flag Maree 20.07.2021 - 06:27:

I do not understand what you mean by "Insert 1 marker in the middle sts = mid on top of shoulder.". It would help if you stated how many stitches in from start of row this is.

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2021 kl. 08:40:

Dear Maree, insert this marker in the middle stitches on the row, this marker should mark the row so that you know this row is the middle on top of shoulder and you can continue the other side of piece and measure from this marker. When back piece is done, you will then fold piece at the markers on shoulders. Happy knitting!

country flag Diane 30.06.2021 - 02:33:

Je ne comprends pas l’attache(cordon).

user icon DROPS Design 30.06.2021 kl. 07:23:

Bonjour Diane, les 2 premiers liens se crochètent au 1er tour de la bordure (quand on arrive à la pointe du devant, on fait une chaînette d'environ 20 à 25 cm, puis 1 mc dans chacune de ces ml et on continue la bordure) - on crochète ensuite séparément 2 autres chaînettes identiques (=même nombre de mailles en l'air et de mailles coulées) que l'on va assembler l'un à l'intérieur du gilet sur le côté droit (il sera noué avec celui de la pointe du devant gauche) et l'autre à l'extérieur du côté gauche du gilet (il sera noué avec celui de la pointe du devant droit). Bonne continuation!

country flag Jonna Carstensen Vandværksvej Kruså 02.05.2021 - 14:33:

Jeg har strikket 15 cm med indt og skal slå 4 m op i slutning af pind til ærmer, men jeg skal jo fortsætte med indtag ialt 18 gange. Hvordan skal jeg jeg fortsat lave indt på pinden Mvh Jonna

country flag Monika Wohlleben-Dittmer 23.04.2021 - 13:27:

Tausendmal Dankeschön!!!!! Jetzt habe ich es verstanden 😍

country flag Monika Wohlleben 23.04.2021 - 12:26:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort, aber leider ich möchte gern wissen nach wie vielen Maschen ????die Schultermarkierung gesetzt wird in der Mitte der 67 Maschen ???? Oder in der Mitte von der Schulter??

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2021 kl. 13:23:

Liebe Frau Wohlleben, diese Markierung ist für die Höhe, nicht für die Maschen, dh sie muss in einer Reihe/krausrippe sein, egal in welche Masche sie ist, was hier wichtig ist, ist die Höhe, diese Markierung muss 28 cm (=3. Größe) von der Anschlagskante sein, Sie werden Rückenteil von dieser Markierung messen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag MonikaWohlleben 23.04.2021 - 10:18:

Ich stricke gerade das Babyjäckchen /Wickel mit Original Drops Wolle ,mein linkes und rechtes Vorderteil sind fertig also stillgelegt, ich hatte mit dem Anschlag gr. 44 Maschen gemacht es liegen jetzt 67 M. Still bei welcher M Anzahl ist da die Schultermarkierung????? Die Hälfte ? Sieht nicht nach Schulter Mitte aus bei 33 M??? Dann wird das Rückenteil doch breiter als das Vorderteil ??? Verstehen Sie mich ? Oder soll ich ein Bild schicken ? Bitte helfen sie mir

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2021 kl. 12:06:

Liebe Frua Wohlleben, die Markierung für die Schulter muss in der Mitte der Reihe/vom Schulter sein, hier wird die Arbeit später gefaltet. Die letzte Reihe bei jedem Vorderteil (die, nach der Markierung gestrickt werden) gehören schon zum Rückenteil, die sind für den Halsausschnitt am Rückenteil. Danach stricken Sie die 67 Maschen vom linken Vorderteil + schlagen Sie 10 M für den Halsausschnitt Rückenteil und stricken Sie die 67 Maschen vom rechten Vorderteil. Die Arbeit wird nun ab die Markierung beim Schulter gemessen so daß Ärmel und Rücktenteil genauso hoch/lang sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Lisbeth 01.04.2021 - 13:10:

Det står att jag ska använda rundsticka, går det inte lika bra med vanliga stickor?

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 13:45:

Hej Lisbeth, ja det går fint :)

country flag Andrea 24.03.2021 - 10:15:

Sehr verständliche Anleitung. Hat viel Spaß gemacht zu stricken.

country flag Beate 26.02.2021 - 17:38:

Das Jäckchen war sehr schön geworden. Doch nach der Wäsche, die ich genau nach der Anleitung durchgeführt habe, ist das Teil leider einige Nummern größer geworden. Kann man da noch etwas retten?

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 10:47:

Liebe Beate, folgen Sie aufmerksam die Pflegehinweise auf der Banderolle - hier finden Sie extra Tipps für Merino-Wolle. Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen auch gerne damit weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Antonia 12.02.2021 - 16:07:

Ich stricke gerade das rechte Vorderteil zu Ende. Ich stricke die 3.Größe, also für 1-3 Monate. Stelle fest, bevor ich die 4 Maschen für den Halsausschnitt zunehme, dass ich nicht 63 sondern 65 Maschen insgesamt habe. 44 minus (Abnahme)22= 22 + (Zunahme)(4x6)24+(1x19)19= 65Maschen . Zumindest habe ich die so gezählt. Könnten Sie mir helfen, vielleicht habe ich falsch geguckt? Mit freundlichen Grüßen

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 06:50:

Liebe Antonia, haben Sie die 2 Abnahmen in jeder 4. Reihe gestrickt? Diese Abnahmen in jeder 2. Reihe (d.h. in jeder Hin-R) noch 21 x wdh (= insgesamt 22 Abnahmen), dann insgesamt 2 x in jeder 4.R (d.h. in jeder 2. Hin-R)., da kommen sicher die 2 zusätlichen Maschen von? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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