DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Bedtime Stories

Knitted wrap cardigan in garter st and crochet edge for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years

DROPS Baby 25-11
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-045-by
Yarn group A
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: (36) 42-48-52-56 (60-66) cm / (14¼") 16½"-19"-20½"-22" (23½"-26")
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8") 9½"-11"-11¾"-12½" (14¼"-15¾")

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 02, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 23, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/ C - for edges and ties.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows.

Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg on front piece, cast on sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Work the other front piece, place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

LOOSELY cast on (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS).
When piece measures (9) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm / (3½") 4¾"-6¼"-6¼"-6¾" (8"-9") (make sure that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st for neck inside 1 edge st at beg of row - READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (17) 17-21-23-25 (27-31) more times (= (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) dec in total), then dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 2 times in total.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm / (4¾") 6"-7½"-8"-8¼" (9½"-10½") cast on new sts at the end of row towards the side of sleeve as follows: (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) sts (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) sts 1 time.
After all inc and dec there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) sts on the needle for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue in garter st until piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8") 9½"-11"-11¾"-12½" (14¼"-15¾").
Insert 1 marker in the middle sts = mid on top of shoulder. Piece is measured from here – AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of row towards the neck, repeat inc on next row towards neck = (46) 56-67-74-83 (94-106) sts (last row = WS).
Put all sts on a stitch holder.

Cast on and work as right but reversed (i.e. dec for neck inside 1 edge st at the end of row from RS (instead of at the beg of row from RS). In addition K 1 row from WS at the end of front piece after casting on sts towards the neck so that last row on both right and left front piece is worked from WS.

Work left front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS), cast on (8) 8-10-10-12 (14-16) new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS) = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) sts.
Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle.
When piece measures (6) 7-7-7½-8 (9-9) cm / (2½") 2¾"-2¾"-2⅞"-3⅛" (3½"-3½"), bind off sleeve sts as follows: bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) sts 1 time and (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) sts (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) sts on needle.
Continue until piece measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8") 9½"-11"-11¾"-12½" (14¼"-15¾") – fold piece at the markers on shoulders and check that front and back pieces are the same length – loosely bind off.

Sew side and sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts.

Work on hook size 2.5 mm/C with light beige around the entire opening on cardigan as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, skip approx. 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* but in a corner where dec for neck beg work tie as follows: 1 sc in tip, then ch for approx. 20-25 cm / 8"-9¾", turn and work 1 sl st in every ch on return, then work 1 sc in tip of front piece again, continue crochet border around the cardigan until the tip of the other front piece, crochet another tie as on first front piece, continue around the rest of the cardigan and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 sc in first ch, * ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, skip 1 sc + 1 ch + 1 sc, work 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (make sure to work over ties so that they are at the bottom), finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Work 2nd round the same way at the bottom around both sleeves.
Then work another tie, similar to the one in each tip, on the inside of the seam in the right side and on the outside of the seam in the left side – make sure that the ties are at the same height as tips on front pieces.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.04.2018
Improved instructions regarding marker on shoulder and crochet edge around sleeves


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 25-11

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Comments / Questions (229)

country flag Evalott Elisabeth Gerdin wrote:

Denna barnkofta är så rolig att sticka. Den är dessutom väldigt fin. Finns mönstret i Damstorlekar?

22.04.2024 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Evalott, här ser du alla våra omlottkoftor: omlott

23.04.2024 - 15:06

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Beiden strikbanden worden op de hoek van voorpanden gemaakt….hoe kan dit vest dan sluiten, zoals op de foto? Op de foto vallen beide voorpanden bij sluiting mooi over elkaar.

17.04.2024 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Je bevestigt ook strikbanden aan de zijnaden; eentje aan de binnenkant aan de rechterkant en eentje aan de buitenkant aan de linker kant. Hiermee kun je de strikbanden die je aan de punten van de voorpanden hebt bevestigd, vast maken.

17.04.2024 - 21:52

country flag Anna Ragna wrote:

það stendur í uppskriftinni að eftir að búið er að fitja upp fyrir ermina eru samtals 79l á prjón.Ég fæ alltaf 59l og er búin að reyna tvisvar sinnum. Er einhver galli í uppskriftinni?

16.04.2024 - 06:57

country flag Wiebke Siemsglüss wrote:

Am Ende des rechten Vorderteils wird am Halsausschnitt zugenommen. Heißt das 1x2 M am Anfang der Hinreihe und 1 x2 Maschen am Ende der Rückreihe? Danke 😊

09.04.2024 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Siemsglüss, diese 2 neuen Maschen sind für den Halsausschnitt, sie werden am Ende einer Rück-Reihe (die mit Ärmel beginnt und beim Hals endet - beim rechten Vorderteil) angeschlagen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

10.04.2024 - 07:44

country flag Elisabeth Gregoriusson wrote:

Hej! Jag har börjat sticka rätstickad omlottkofta med omslag st. 1/3. Lagt upp 37 m och minskat 20 st sammanlagt vid hals. När jag lägger upp nya m för ärmen (andra sidan) stämmer inte det i slutändan. Lägger upp 16 m i 4 olika omgångar och sedan ska jag öka 19 maskor. Det blir inte 52 maskor sammanlagt. Vad är det för fel jag gör? Tacksam för hjälp är nybörjare på att sticka..../Elisabeth

19.03.2024 - 15:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elisabeth. Du har 37 maskor, minskar 20 m, ökar 16 m (=4 maskor 4 gånger), ökar 19 m. 37-20+16+19=52 maskor. Mvh DROPS Design

20.03.2024 - 08:05

country flag Monica wrote:

Hallo, Ik probeer het babyoverslagvestje te maken (25-11).Ik ben nu bijna klaar met de rechterhelft van het voorpand maar ben er nu achtergekomen dat ik de verkeerde kant als voorkant heb gekozen. Dus alle mindereingen enz aan verkeerde kant van breiwerk heb gedaan. ZIet er wel mooi uit. wat kan ik doen zodat de linkerpant en rugpand die ik nog moet breien hier mooi op aan sluiten? Is dit mogelijk, wat moet ik aanpassen in het patroon? Of moet ik opnieuw beginnen? Vr. groet Monica

17.03.2024 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monica,

Het andere voorpand zou je precies in spiegelbeeld kunnen breien. Het achterpand is symmetrisch, dus als je hiermee verder gaat kun je weer gewoon het patroon aanhouden.

17.03.2024 - 18:58

country flag Dorothee Diermann wrote:

Nach Fertigstellung habe ich das Jäckchen vorsichtig gewaschen und es ist riesig geworden. Was kann ich tun ? Eventuell filzen ?

04.03.2024 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dierman, lesen Sie die Pflegehinweise bei der Farbkarte, Baby Merino ist superwash, waschen Sie am besten immer immer in der Waschmaschine - fragen Sie mal Ihr Wollladen, sicher kann man dort Ihnen weiterhelfen.

05.03.2024 - 08:37

country flag Annegreeth Gebert wrote:

In 2020 is mijn kleinzoon dood geboren. Nu is hij in een overslag doek gecremeerd. Nu heb ik heel veel wol en katoen. Ik wil voor een stichting breien zodat ze met kleertjes aan begraven of gecremeerd kunnen worden. Zou je zo vriendelijk willen zijn om mij een patroon te willen toesturen?? Annegreeth Gebert Julianastraat 42 4491gb Wissenkerke 0646488120 Alvast bedankt

26.02.2024 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annegreeth,

Al onze patronen zijn gratis af te drukken via de knop 'Afdrukken' onder de materialenlijst. Klik op de knop 'Afdrukken' en dan op 'Patroon'. In het pop-up venster dat vervolgens in beeld komt klik je rechts boven op de link 'Het patroon afdrukken'.

28.02.2024 - 20:23

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonsoir, je pense qu’il y a une erreur dans les explications et ce n’est pas la première fois que je le constate sur le point mousse. Vous dites : diminuer 2 fois tous les 4 rangs (c'est-à-dire tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit). Vous voulez dire toutes les 2 côtés de point mousse ? Et non tous les 2 rangs. Merci beaucoup

01.02.2024 - 17:54

country flag Marita wrote:

Höger framst. Lägg upp 2 nya maskor i slutet av varvet osv kan inte se detta framför mig.

13.01.2024 - 19:52