Bedtime Stories by DROPS Design

Knitted wrap cardigan in garter st and crochet edge for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years

DROPS Baby 25-11
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-045-by
Yarn group A
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: (36) 42-48-52-56 (60-66) cm / (14¼”) 16½”-19”-20½”-22” (23½”-26”)
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (14¼”-15¾”)

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 02, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 23, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24’’ or 32’’) SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/ C - for edges and ties.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows.

Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg on front piece, cast on sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Work the other front piece, place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

LOOSELY cast on (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS).
When piece measures (9) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm / (3½”) 4¾”-6¼”-6¼”-6¾” (8”-9”) (make sure that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st for neck inside 1 edge st at beg of row - READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (17) 17-21-23-25 (27-31) more times (= (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) dec in total), then dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 2 times in total.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm / (4¾”) 6”-7½”-8”-8¼” (9½”-10½”) cast on new sts at the end of row towards the side of sleeve as follows: (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) sts (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) sts 1 time.
After all inc and dec there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) sts on the needle for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue in garter st until piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (14¼”-15¾”).
Insert 1 marker in the middle sts = mid on top of shoulder. Piece is measured from here – AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of row towards the neck, repeat inc on next row towards neck = (46) 56-67-74-83 (94-106) sts (last row = WS).
Put all sts on a stitch holder.

Cast on and work as right but reversed (i.e. dec for neck inside 1 edge st at the end of row from RS (instead of at the beg of row from RS). In addition K 1 row from WS at the end of front piece after casting on sts towards the neck so that last row on both right and left front piece is worked from WS.

Work left front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS), cast on (8) 8-10-10-12 (14-16) new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece on to circular needle (= K from RS) = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) sts.
Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle.
When piece measures (6) 7-7-7½-8 (9-9) cm / (2½”) 2¾”-2¾”-2 7/8”-3 1/8” (3½”-3½”), bind off sleeve sts as follows: bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) sts 1 time and (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) sts (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) sts on needle.
Continue until piece measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (14¼”-15¾”) – fold piece at the markers on shoulders and check that front and back pieces are the same length – loosely bind off.

Sew side and sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts.

Work on hook size 2.5 mm/C with light beige around the entire opening on cardigan as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, skip approx. 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* but in a corner where dec for neck beg work tie as follows: 1 sc in tip, then ch for approx. 20-25 cm / 8”-9¾”, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch on return, then work 1 sc in tip of front piece again, continue crochet border around the cardigan until the tip of the other front piece, crochet another tie as on first front piece, continue around the rest of the cardigan and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 sc in first ch, * ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, skip 1 sc + 1 ch + 1 sc, work 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (make sure to work over ties so that they are at the bottom), finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Work 2nd round the same way at the bottom around both sleeves.
Then work another tie, similar to the one in each tip, on the inside of the seam in the right side and on the outside of the seam in the left side – make sure that the ties are at the same height as tips on front pieces.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.04.2018
Improved instructions regarding marker on shoulder and crochet edge around sleeves


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (208)

country flag Hawk wrote:

Hi, sorry, but I don't understand the instructions for the back piece. I have just finished my left front and have the right front on stitch holders. Am I supposed to just add 10 new stitches (3 months old size) to the left front piece, and then move the right front piece from the holders to the same circular needle as the left front piece and just knit that? Will that create the back somehow? Sorry can't envision how this will work. Any video on this? Thanks!

09.01.2023 - 04:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hawk, back piece will be worked from top down from the stitches of both front pieces, this mean first work from the right side all stitches from left front piece, then cast on 10 sts (neckline on back piece) and work the stitches from right front piece = 144 sts on needle. And work now all stitches in garter stitch. You will then cast off for sleeves at the beg of every row on each side. Happy knitting!

09.01.2023 kl. 10:45

country flag Lilla wrote:

Sto realizzando la taglia 1-3 mesi. Non capisco questo passaggio: "ALLO STESSO TEMPO quando il lavoro misura (12) 15- 19-20-21 (24-27) cm avviare nuove m alla fine del f verso il lato della manica come segue: (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) m (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) volte in totale e poi (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) m 1 volta. " QUINDI: quando il lavoro misura 19 cm. devo avviare 6 nuove maglie alla fine del ferro oppure 6x4= 24 maglie?

07.01.2023 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lilla, deve procedere come indicato: avviare 6 maglie alla fine del ferro verso le manica e ripetere questo passaggio per 4 volte, poi 19 maglie in una volta sola. Buon lavoro!

08.01.2023 kl. 11:52

country flag Hawk wrote:

Hi, I don't understand what this means: "Insert 1 marker in the middle sts = mid on top of shoulder." How many stitches? I divide 63 by 2? Unclear. Thank you!

05.01.2023 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hawk, The marker should be inserted in the middle stitch on the row, marking mid-top of shoulder, so stitch 32. Happy knitting!

06.01.2023 kl. 08:36

country flag Marilyn Jones wrote:

Please ignore my question of 16/12. I figured it out and no longer need an answer. Thank you!

18.12.2022 - 21:33

country flag Marilyn Jones wrote:

When I'm binding off for the sleeves, am I always binding off from the right side? Thank you!

17.12.2022 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marilyn, if you are in the back, binding off for the sleeves, you need to bind off at the beginning of each row. Since you need to bind off for both sleeves, you will bind off at the beginning of rows from the right side for one sleeve and at the beginning of rows from the wrong side for the other sleeve. Happy knitting!

18.12.2022 kl. 23:31

country flag Corinne wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis en train de tricoter le devant droit, en taille 1/3 mois, il me semble qu'à la fin des augmentations et des diminutions pour l'épaule/manche il doit me rester 54 mailles et non 52, pouvez vous me confirmer ça svp. Bien cordialement

16.12.2022 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, quand toutes les mailles de la manche sont montées, vous devez avoir 52m en taille 0/1 mois et 63 m en 1/3 mois, autrement dit, vous aviez 37-44 m et diminuez 18-22 x 1 m + 2 x 1 m pour l'encolure et montez 4-4 x 4-6 m + 1 x 19-19 m pour l'épaule/manche - soit: 37-18-2+16+19=52 m en 0/1 mois et 44-22-2+24+19=63 m en taille 1/3 mois. Bon tricot!

16.12.2022 kl. 15:53

country flag Marilyn Jones wrote:

Thank you for all your previous help! I've checked questions/answers, but read English only, so I apologize for most likely repeating a question. When I am casting on 2 stitches, 2 times toward the neck on the front pieces, do I do that as I'm knitting after reaching 9.5 inches, or after I place the marker on the shoulder?

14.12.2022 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Marilyn, You start to cast on new stitches for the front pieces when you have reached 9.5 inches. Happy knitting!

15.12.2022 kl. 06:52

country flag Marilyn Jones wrote:

Not sure what you mean by mid stitches in placing marker. For 52 stitches, do you mean to place marker after 26 stitches? Thank you!

12.12.2022 - 03:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jones, you have here to mark the row, not the stitches, insert a marker in or between stitches and you will then measure piece from this row. Happy knitting!

12.12.2022 kl. 10:21

country flag Maria wrote:

Gli aumenti sul davanti dx e sx per le maniche sono a ferri alterni?

08.12.2022 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, si aumenta per le maniche a entrambi i lati, alla fine di ogni ferro. Buon lavoro!

11.12.2022 kl. 22:01

country flag Hawk wrote:

Hi, my previous question was not about how to add stitches at the end of row, but whether I cast on all 24 at the same time, or spread it out across 4 consecutive rows (6x4), and then add 19 stitches in the following row. Could you please advise?

07.12.2022 - 02:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hawk, You cast on 6 stitches at the end of the row towards the side x 4, then the 19 stitches to finish. So the casting on occurs every 2nd row (as you want to cast on at the end of the row for the sleeve each time). Happy knitting!

07.12.2022 kl. 06:47

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