Cheeky Chicken by DROPS Design

DROPS Easter: Knitted DROPS chicken pants in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size 2-8 years

Keywords: animals, carnival, pants, stripes
DROPS Extra 0-1023
DROPS design: Pattern no me-018-bn
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 years
Finished measure:
Waist: 52-54-56-58 cm/ 20½"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"
Hips: 62-64-66-68 cm/ 24½"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"
Full length: 52-61-68-75 cm/ 20½"-24"-26 3/4"-29½"

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150 color no 30, mustard
100-100-100-100 g color no 11, red
50-50-50-50 g color no 01, off white
And use some left-over color no 20, dark blue for decoration.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm / 24" and 16") SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - for rib.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool
from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts at the front and back by making 1 YO, on next round K the YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog and then K 2 twisted tog (marker is between these sts).
----------------------------------------------------------

PANTS:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle and then on double pointed needles.
Cast on 120-124-128-132 sts on a circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with red and work rib K 2/P 2.
Work until rib measures 3 cm / 1''.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 12 sts evenly = 108-112-116-120 sts on needle.
Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid back.
Work 1 more round but stop round 5 sts before marker. Put piece aside.
Now work 5-5-7-7 small triangles to be worked in at the back of pants (= comb).

TRIANGLES: Cast on 2 sts on a double pointed needle size 4 mm / US 6 with red, K 1, 1 YO, K 1. Always K YO twisted on next row to avoid hole. K all sts = 3 sts.
Work in GARTER ST – see explanation above, back and forth on double pointed needles AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st by making a YO inside 1 edge st in each side every 3rd row until there are 9 sts in total and 2 YOs on needle, P next row, P YOs twisted. There are now 2 rows in stockinette st at the top of triangle.
Put triangle on a stitch holder.
Work 5-5-7-7 triangles in total and slip all on the same stitch holder. Make sure they are the same way, so that all have 2 rows in stockinette st towards the same side.
Now work them in at the back of pants.
Hold stitch holder with triangles towards RS of pants, make sure that the 2 rows in stockinette st on triangles are towards you. Work first st from first triangle tog with first st from pants. Continue to work tog sts from triangle and pants until 3-3-4-4 triangles have been worked. Continue to work on pants until 22-22-33-33 sts before first triangle.
Then work the last 2-2-3-3 triangles in on pants.
K the next 5 sts = beg of round/mid back, move marker from earlier down here.
Switch to mustard and insert 1 more marker on pants, insert this after 54-56-58-60 sts (= mid front). Then work an elevation at the back in stockinette st as follows: Work 8 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten yarn and work 16 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 24 sts, turn, tighten yarn and continue like this by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 80-80-80-96-96 sts have been worked. Turn, continue in stockinette st in the round until piece measures 13-13-14-15 cm / 5"-5"-5½"-6".
Put piece aside.
Now work a large triangle (= beak) that is worked in mid back of pants the same way as the small triangles at the top.

LARGE TRIANGLE: Cast on 2 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 (40 cm / 16'') with red, K 1, 1 YO, K 1. K all sts = 3 sts.
Work in garter st, back and forth on circular needle AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st with a YO inside 1 edge st in each side on every row 24-25-26-27 times = 51-53-55-57 sts on needle. On last row P sts and P YO twisted.
There are now 2 rows in stockinette st at the top of triangle.
Place triangle aside and continue in the round on pants until 25-26-27-28 sts before marker mid back.
Hold triangle towards RS of pants, make sure that the 2 rows in stockinette st on triangle are towards you. Work first st from triangle tog with first st from pants. Continue to work tog sts from triangle and pants until all sts on triangle have been worked, continue on pants until mid back.

Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 18-18-20-21 cm / 7"-7"-8"-8 1/4" mid front. Then inc 2 sts front and back on next round – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other round 5 more times (= 6 times in total) = 132-136-140-144 sts. After last inc (piece measures approx. 23-23-24-25 cm / 9"-9"-9½"-9 3/4" mid front), bind off 12 sts mid front and mid back (i.e. bind off 6 sts on each side of both markers). Finish each leg separately, slip sts for one leg on 1 stitch holder.

LEG:
= 54-56-58-60 sts. Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in stockinette st in the round - insert 1 marker on the inside of leg. Work in stockinette st until piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', now work 2 rounds with off white AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP. Continue with mustard and repeat dec and 2 rounds with off white every 2.5-4.5-5.5-7 cm / 7/8"-1 3/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/4" 5 more times (= 6 times in total) = 42-44-46-48 sts. When leg measures 19-28-34-40 cm / 7½"-11"-13½"-15 3/4", switch to red and work 2 rounds – AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 6-8-6-8 sts evenly = 48-52-52-56 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work rib = K 2/P 2 with red for 10 cm / 4''. Then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P. Slip sts from the other leg back on needle and work as first leg.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 12 sts bound off between legs, towards each other in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam.

EYES:
Cast on 5 sts with dark blue on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work 3 ridges in garter st back and forth. K 1 row, rotate piece clockwise and pick up 1 st in every ridge on the side of piece with 1 new double pointed needle (= 3 sts), rotate piece again and pick up 5 sts in underside of cast on-edge with a new double pointed needle = 13 sts on needle. K back and then switch to off white. K 5, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO and K 5. K back, K YOs twisted to avoid holes = 17 sts on needle. K 6, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO and K 6. K back, K YOs twisted to avoid holes = 21 sts on needle.
Bind off with K from RS. Cut the yarn and fasten.
Work another eye the same way and fasten eyes to the back of pants, above the large triangle (= beak).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1023) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Hege wrote:

Hei. Det kan da ikke stemme at det kun skal være 150 gram gul til denne buksen i str 7-8 år? Jeg har nå brukt 200 gram og er enda ikke ferdig med buksen. Har riktig strikkefasthet.

19.11.2021 - 00:02

country flag Pia Berglund wrote:

Kan någon visa en bild? på de byxor ni gör

25.04.2019 - 23:40

country flag May-Brit Hjelén Isaksen wrote:

Hvordan skal jeg felle før jeg strikker benene, altså de 12 foran og bak, uten å bli sittende igjen med en maske midt i fellingen bak? *nybegynner*

18.01.2019 - 07:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej May-Brit, du feller alle 12 masker foran, strikker benet og sætter maskerne på en tråd, feller alle 12 masker bagpå. Nu har du maskerne til det andet ben på pinden og fortsætter ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

25.01.2019 kl. 09:12

Ana-Maria Pasca wrote:

And my 3rd questions is that my piece is not straight, is a little bit sloping, not vertical (it is my first time when working circular); is it normal? would be better after first wash? Thank you again for patience and for the gorgeous cheeky chicken pattern!

05.04.2016 - 07:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pasca, since you have worked some short rows on back piece -before adding large triangle- you piece will not be "straight" - you can always show/send a picture to your DROPS store, they will then give you further individual assistance, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

05.04.2016 kl. 10:23

Ana-Maria Pasca wrote:

Hello again! Please tell me (I'm a beginner so thank you for your patience): 1. on inc just before going on legs, the YOs (YO--marker--YO) even worked twisted it turn into small hole, is it normal? 2. also there, is it correct to work one turn making YOs, next turn working them, 3rd turn YOs, 4th working and so on till 6th time--being for 6 inc 12 turns worked? (or should be YOs, work them and on the same time YOs)

05.04.2016 - 07:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pasca, the inc before legs (on front and back pieces) are made on either side of the 2 middle sts on front and on back piece (see Increase tip at the very beg of the pattern), so that you will have YO, K2 (marker is between these 2 sts), YO. You repeat these inc every other round a total of 6 times, ie work *1 round with inc, 1 round without inc*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times = 4 sts inc per round x 6 inc rounds = 24 sts inc. Happy knitting!

05.04.2016 kl. 10:21

Pasca Ana-Maria wrote:

Before working the large triangle it is said to put piece aside when measures 13-13-14-15 cm. Measure is at mid front as rest of pattern? (it is not said in the text!). Thank you, Ana

31.03.2016 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pasca, correct, you should measure at mid front. Happy knitting!

31.03.2016 kl. 16:00

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le Cheeky Chicken, est ce qu'on doit fixer tout le grand triangle (les trois côtés)? Dans le patrons on n'en parle pas, mais je me demandais si on devait coudre les deux autres côtés ? Merci!

07.12.2015 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, le grand triangle n'est pas fixé ici sur les 2 autres côtés. Bon tricot!

07.12.2015 kl. 16:50

country flag Audrey wrote:

So sorry to bother you again. I am still not sure I understand your answer. Here is what I think...please correct me. I knit the two rounds of whit, decreasing two stitches each row...then knit the mustard without decreasing for 2.5cm. Then do two rounds of white again decreasing each round two stitches.? Thank you in advance for your patience.

21.04.2015 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Audrey, you decrease only 2 sts when working the round off white (either on 1st or 2nd round as you rather), then continue with mustard for 2.5 cm (first size) and repeat 2 rounds with off-white + dec 2 sts on 1st or 2nd round, and 2.5 cm stocking with mustard a total of 6 times (12 sts decreased). Happy knitting!

22.04.2015 kl. 11:49

country flag Audrey wrote:

I am having trouble understanding the decreases in the leg of the chicken pants. Do I only decrease when I use the off white...or when I use the mustard color too. When I work the first two rounds, do I decrease both rounds or just one. I am making these for my nephews daughter. He raises chickens...I am hoping you can help with more explicit instructions. Thanks

21.04.2015 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Audrey, that's correct, you repeat the 2 rounds with off-white and the dec every 2.5-4.5-5.5-7 cm 5 more times (= 6 times in total) = 42-44-46-48 sts remain when all dec are done. HHappy knitting!

21.04.2015 kl. 17:29

country flag AJ wrote:

I am making the chicken pants pattern. It says knit with mustard color for 5". No sure if I should measure from the front or back of pants. Because of the extra rows on the back they are different lengths. Thanks

24.03.2015 - 00:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear AJ, measure should be done from mid front. Happy knitting!

24.03.2015 kl. 10:11

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1023

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.