DROPS Extra / 0-836

Let's Go by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dog's jumper with Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”. Size XS - L.

  • Let's Go / DROPS Extra 0-836 - Knitted DROPS dog's jumper with Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”. Size XS - L.
  • Let's Go / DROPS Extra 0-836 - Knitted DROPS dog's jumper with Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”. Size XS - L.
DROPS design: Pattern no U-654
Yarn group B
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Size: XS - S - M - L
Dog's measurements:
Chest width: approx. 28/32-40/44-50/54-60/66 cm /
11"/12½" - 15¾"/17¼" - 19¾"/21¼" - 23½"/26"
Back length: approx. 24/26-32/34-40/42-48/52 cm /
9½"/10¼" - 12½"/13½" - 15¾"/16½" - 19"/20½"

Example of dogs:
XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel, L = Irish setter.

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-100-150-200 g color no 55, light beige brown
50-50-100-100 g color no 01, off white
50-50-50-100 g color no 56, dark brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES (for size XS), CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'' for size S and M and 60 cm / 24'' for size L) SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES (all sizes) and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'' for size S and M and 60 cm / 24'' for size L) SIZE 3 mm/US 2or3.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A-1 to A-4. All rows in diagram are worked in stockinette st.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle from the neck down. The smallest size is worked on double pointed needles, the other sizes on circular needle.
Cast on 52-76-100-124 sts on double pointed needles/circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with light beige brown. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 6-8-10-12 cm / 2½"-3"-4"-4 3/4" (= neck). Switch to double pointed needles/circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 1 round in stockinette st while at the same time inc 8 sts evenly = 60-84-108-132 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work pattern as follows:
SIZE XS: A-1, A-2, and A-4.
SIZE S: A-1, A-2, A-3, and A-4.
SIZE M: A-1, A-2, A-3, A-2, and A-4.
SIZE L: A-1, A-2, A-3, A-2, A-3, and A-4.
AT THE SAME TIME on last round of A-1, inc 5-7-9-11 sts evenly = 65-91-117-143 sts. AT THE SAME TIME on last round of A-2, dec 1 st in XS and M and inc 1 st in S and L = 64-92-116-144 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-6-9-12 cm / 1½"-2½"-3½"-4 3/4" (measured after neck), divide for front legs as follows: bind off 1 st, slip 11-17-23-33 sts on a stitch holder (= under the belly), bind off 1 st, then continue pattern back and forth on needle over the remaining sts (= back piece).
When piece measures 10-14-18-22 cm / 4"-5½"-7"-8 3/4" (opening for legs measures approx. 6-8-9-10 cm / 2½"-3"-3½"-4"), slip sts on another stitch holder. Slip sts from stitch holder under the belly back on needle (= 11-17-23-33 sts) and work pattern over these the same length as on back piece. Slip all sts on the same needle again and cast on 1 new st in each side between over and under piece = 64-92-116-144 sts. Finish the pattern, then work with light beige brown until finished measurements.
When piece measures 15-20-25-30 cm / 6"-8"-9 3/4"-11 3/4", bind off the middle 10-14-18-22-25 sts mid under the belly. Then continue back and forth on needle - at the same time bind off at the beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 1-3-4-6 times, 1 st 9-8-9-8 times, 2 sts 1-3-4-6 times and 3 sts 1 time = 22-32-42-52 sts remain on needle. Piece measures approx. 29-38-47-52 cm / 11½"-15"-18½"-20½" incl the neck.

ASSEMBLY:
Slip the remaining sts on double pointed needles/circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3, pick in addition up sts around the bind off edge so that there are a total of 84-112-144-188 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 as follows: 3-6-9-12 rounds with light beige brown, 2 rounds with dark brown, 2 rounds with light beige brown, 2 rounds with dark brown, then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

LEG:
Pick up 36-44-52-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with light beige brown around one opening for the leg. Work rib = K 2/P 2 as follows: 5-8-12-17 rounds with light beige brown, 2 rounds with dark brown, 2 rounds with light beige brown, 2 rounds with dark brown, then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P. Leg length is approx. 4-5-6-8 cm / 1½"-2"-2½"-3".
Repeat around the other opening.

PS: The neck is folded double when worn.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light beige brown
symbols = dark brown
symbols = off white
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-836) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (99)

country flag Annie 15.03.2021 - 13:56:

Je tricote le modèle pour une taille S et suis au début du diagramme A-2. Aussi, j'ai fait les 7 augmentations à la fin du diagramme A-1. Mais il y a un petit décalage dans le motif. J'ai calculé qu'il fallait faire cette augmentation toutes les 12 mailles et ma question est la suivante : pour les augmentations faut-il commencer le rang par une augmentation ou d'abord tricoter 12 mailles avant de faire l'augmentation. Merci d'avance pour votre précieux conseil.

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2021 kl. 15:16:

Bonjour Annie, en taille S, vous augmentez d'abord 7 augmentations au dernier tour de A.1 (= 91 m ) et vous tricotez ainsi 7 fois les 13 mailles de A.2 = 91 m) et vous augmentez 1 maille au dernier tour de A.2 = vous avez ainsi 92 mailles et tricotez 11,5 fois les 8 m de A.3 autrement dit, répétez 11 fois A.3 et terminez le tour par les 4 premières mailles de A.3. Bon tricot!

country flag Wenke 26.02.2021 - 09:31:

Felle til ben. Skal jeg felle en maske sette av 11 masker og felle en maske i begynnelsen av pinnen, og deretter fortsette. Er dette til to ben.

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 13:15:

Hei Wenke. De 11 maskene du setter på en tråd blir "magestykket". Disse 11 maskene skal senere strikket like langt som "hovedstykket" og de skal settes sammen igjen og det strikkes rundt. Du vil da få 2 "hull" til beina på hver side av "magestykket" (hullene skal senere strikkes rundt til ben). Ta evnt en titt på videoen: Oversikt over hvordan hundegenseren i DROPS 102-43 strikkes – steg for steg. Og da gjerne mellom tiden 00:13 og 00:27. Da ser du hvordan det er tenkt. mvh DROPS design

country flag Diane Hewitt 22.02.2021 - 06:28:

The pattern for the Norwegian dog sweater asks that you have 84 stitches (size s) after the first increase after collar. But the chart patterns only have 41 st total so if you do it twice, you have 82 st. Where to you add on the other two stitches? Which panel A1, 2 or 3 and at which end? Also, A1 - A4 have a different number of rows. So when you reach the end of the panel with 8 rows, do you then go back to row one and continue on with the panels with 12 or 13 rows? Thanks

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 09:47:

Dear Mrs Hewitt, Diagrams are worked in height, ie in S you have 84 sts and work A.1 a total of 7 times in the round (= 7x12 = 84 sts). On last round in A.1 increase evenly 7 sts = 91 sts and repeat now the 13 sts in A.2 a total of 7 times in width. On last row in A.2 increase 1 stitch = 92 sts. Now work A.3, then A.4 - but remember to divide piece for leg opening. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

country flag Nancy 31.01.2021 - 01:32:

Bonjour le jacquard sur l'aller retour moi je fais de gauche à droite en montant et en rond mon diagramme correspond mais sur l'aller retour le diagramme ne correspond pas pouvez vous m'aider merci beaucoup.

user icon DROPS Design 01.02.2021 kl. 09:23:

Bonjour Nancy, sur l'endroit lisez de droite à gauche, sur l'envers, lisez de gauche à droite en commençant par la dernière maille tricotée sur l'endroit (ce ne sera pas forcément la dernière maille du diagramme). Notez bien quelle maille vous tricotez en dernier sur l'endroit et commencez par cette maille sur l'envers, en lisant de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

country flag Hildegunn 25.01.2021 - 09:08:

Hei det står att man skal felle på begynnelsen av hver pinne i hver side :2masker 1-3-4-6 ganger , 1 m 9-8-9-8 ganger ,dette skjønte eg ik .

user icon DROPS Design 28.01.2021 kl. 15:49:

Hej igen, husk at følge din størrelse, det vil sige, strikker du størrelse nr 2, feller du 2 masker i starten af hver pind 3 gange (i hver side) og 1 maske 8 gange i hver side. God fornøjelse!

country flag Hildegunn 25.01.2021 - 08:57:

Hei eg skjønner ik siste del der man skal felle inn fra hver side, prøvde men da blei det "bølger ", er det riktig

user icon DROPS Design 28.01.2021 kl. 15:47:

Hej Hildegun, det stykke er også med i vores lektion nederst i opskriften. Se fra punkt nr 10 og 11, så ser du hvordan du lukker af i hver side i din størrelse og du ser hvordan det kommer til at se ud. God fornøjelse!

country flag Nancy 23.01.2021 - 20:52:

Bonjour mon Jacquard a très bien été avec les aiguilles circulaires mais la il faut faire aller retour et je pense que je ne croise pas bien mes laine parce que ça paraît sur lend de l'ouvrage merci pour votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 09:03:

Bonjour Nancy, cette vidéo du jacquard vous aidera sans doute, elle montre comment tricoter le jacquard sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

country flag Nancy 21.01.2021 - 21:08:

Bonjour, j'ai encore une question : quand je rabat la première maille pour la division des pattes. Je suis au début de mon tour je tricote une maille je tricote une deuxième maille et je rabat je vais avoir une maille seul après le début de mon tour et je continue à tricoter les 33 mailles

user icon DROPS Design 22.01.2021 kl. 08:01:

Bonjour Nancy, rabattez la 1ère maille du tour, tricotez les 32 m suivantes = vous avez 33 mailles pour le ventre, mettez ces 33 m en attente, rabattez maille suivante et tricotez jusqu'à la fin du rang, vous avez 1 maille de rabattue de part et d'autre des 33 mailles du ventre, et les mailles du dos sont sur l'aiguille, vous tricotez ces mailles. Dans cette leçon, c'est l'étape 5 (= on rabat 1 m de chaque côté de celles du ventre) et 6 (on tricote le dos). Bon tricot!

country flag Nancy 21.01.2021 - 15:06:

Bonjour, j'ai une autre question, encore pour l'ouverture des pattes. Rabattre 1 maille et après esque je peux tricoter les 33 mailles et les placer ensuite sur un arrêt de maille et rabattre 1 autre maille merci

user icon DROPS Design 21.01.2021 kl. 16:47:

Bonjour Nancy, tout à fait, ainsi vous n'aurez pas à couper le fil: au début du tour, rabattez la 1ère maille, tricotez les 33 m suivantes et mettez-les en attente, rabattez 1 maille et tricotez les mailles restantes pour le dos comme avant en jacquard. Bon tricot!

country flag Nancy 20.01.2021 - 19:52:

Bonjour quand je commence a tricoter après avoir diviser pour les pattes je tourne mon tricot sur l'env esque je tricote les m comme elle se présente sur l'env et je continue mon jacquard sur l'end merci

user icon DROPS Design 21.01.2021 kl. 07:47:

Bonjour Nancy, vous continuez le jacquard sur l'envers, notez la dernière maille tricotée sur l'endroit, tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur l'envers en lisant le diagramme de gauche à droite en commençant par la maille que vous avez marquée. Bon tricot!

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