DROPS / 116 / 1

Winter Fantasy by DROPS Design

DROPS Jacket in ”Alpaca” and ”Glitter” with 2-colour pattern in round yoke. Size S to XXXL. Long socks in ”Fabel” with the same pattern.

JACKET:
We knitted the jacket in black glitter and black alpaca. The picture doesn’t reflect the effect very well, but it gives a really nice shine.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-100-110-120-130 cm / 31½’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-43 3/8’’-47¼’’-51’’
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 8903, black.
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color no 0100, off-white
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools for all sizes color no 09, black.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3 mm/US 2or3 – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 2.5 mm/US 1 – for rib.

DROPS Shell buttons w/hole, no 525: 10 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.50 $ /10g
DROPS Glitter colours DROPS Glitter colours 4.05 $ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Glitter gold & silver DROPS Glitter gold & silver 2.50 $ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SOCKS:

Size:
5/6½ - 7½/9 – 9½/10½ (US sizes)
35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43 (EU sizes)
3/4 – 5/6½ – 7/8 (Uk sizes)

Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10 5/8”
Leg length: 42-44-46 cm / 16½”-17¼”-18”
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes color no 400, black
50 g for all sizes color no 100, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

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JACKET:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – diagram is seen from RS and shows 1 pattern repeat.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 314-354-394-434-474-514 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see above, * K2 / P3 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, K2, 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue like this until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4’’, now dec all P3 to P2 (as seen from RS) = 252-284-316-348-380-412 sts. Continue in rib, K2 / P2, with 1 edge st in garter st each side. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾’’ dec all P2 to P1 (as seen from RS) = 190-214-238-262-286-310 sts. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-17’’-17¼’’-17¾’’ work next row as follows from RS: 41-47-54-59-65-71 sts (= front piece), bind off 12 sts for armhole, 84-96-106-120-132-144 sts (= back piece), bind off 12 sts for armhole, 41-47-54-59-65-71 sts (= front piece) = 166-190-214-238-262-286 sts left on needle.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 80-80-80-88-88-88 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter. Work rib, K2 / P2. When piece measures 10 cm / 4’’ dec all P2 to P1 = 60-60-60-66-66-66 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 11-11-11-14-14-14 cm inc 1 st each side of marker mid under sleeve, repeat the inc on every 4.5-3.5-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm / 1¾”-1¼”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4” a total of 8-11-14-13-15-17 times = 76-82-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 48 cm / 19” bind off 12 sts mid under sleeve = 64-70-76-80-84-88 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 as body piece where bind off for armhole = 294-330-366-398-430-462 sts. Work 3-5-9-13-15-17 rows stockinette st with black Alpaca + Glitter, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 5-8-11-10-9-8 sts evenly = 289-322-355-388-421-454 sts. Now continue in M.1 (first row = RS) with 1 edge st in garter st each side, work the last but 1 st on row like first st in M.1, but without the dec, to make the pattern identical on both front pieces. When all dec are complete there are 107-119-131-143-155-167 sts on needle and piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’.
Work 1 row with off-white (from WS), AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-19-23-27-31-35 sts evenly = 92-100-108-116-124-132 sts. Now work shortened rows mid back with off-white as follows: Work 56-60-64-68-72-76 sts, turn, work 20 sts, turn, work 30 sts, turn, work 40 sts. Continue like this with 10 more sts before each turn until you have worked shortened rows on a total of 60-80-80-100-120 sts, turn and work return row and work 1 row on all sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT BAND: Pick up approx 180 to 212 sts (divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st along left front piece with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter on circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib as follows (first row = WS): 1 edge st in garter st, * P2 / K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P until rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’, bind off loosely.

RIGHT FRONT BAND: Like left front band, but after 1 cm / 3/8’’ make 9 buttonholes evenly distributed (make buttonholes in P-sections as seen from RS). 1 BUTTONHOLE = P2 tog and make 1 YO – place the bottom buttonhole in the 2nd P-section and the top one approx 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ from neckline (the last buttonhole is made on the neck).

NECK: Worked with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 as follows: Pick up 8 sts on right front band (inside 1 edge st), work the 92-100-108-116-124-132 sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 8 sts on left front band = 108-116-124-132-140-148 sts. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 20 sts evenly = 128-136-144-152-160-168 sts. Continue in rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K2 / P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P. When neck measures 1 cm / 3/8’’ make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. When neck measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’ bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY: Sew on buttons. Sew openings under sleeves.
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SOCKS:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.2 – diagram shows 1 pattern repeat. We knitted the socks without Glitter.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: K2 tog into back of loop.

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 8-9-9 sts remain, K2 tog into back of loop, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 8-9-9 sts remain, P2 tog, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work row until 7-8-8 sts remain, K2 tog into back of loop, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 7-8-8 sts remain, P2 tog, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 14-14-16 sts on needle.
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SOCKS: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 108-108-116 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with off-white. Work rib, K2 / P2 for 8 cm / 3 1/8’’.
K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 20 sts evenly = 88-88-96 sts. Continue in M.2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
After M.2 piece measures approx 21 cm / 8¼”. Insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in black stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st each side of marker – SEE DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 4-5-5 round a total of 16-14-16 times = 56-60-64 sts. When piece measures 42-44-46 cm / 16½”-17¼”-18” keep the first 28-30-32 sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 28-30-32 sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot).
Continue in stockinette st back and forth on heel-sts for 5-5.5-6 cm / 2’’-2¼’’-2 3/8’’ - insert a marker. Now work HEEL DECREASES – see above.
After heel dec pick up 13-14-16 sts each side of heel and slip the 28-30-32 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-72-80 sts. Insert a marker each side of the 28-30-32 sts on upper foot. Continue in stockinette st in the round, AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog into back of loop the last 2 sts BEFORE first marker on upper foot, and K tog the first 2 sts AFTER the second marker on upper foot. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 8-8-10 times = 52-56-60 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-19-22 cm / 7”-7½”-8¾” from marker on heel (= approx 4-5-5 cm / 1½”-2”-2” remain). Insert a marker each side with 26-28-30 sts on upper foot and 26-28-30 sts under foot. Continue in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes each side of both markers as follows: Before marker: K2 tog. After marker: K2 tog into back of loop.
Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-5-5 times and then on every round 7-7-8 times = 8 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.09.2009
Sock: .... = 88-88-96 sts.
Continue in M.2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
After M.2 piece measures approx 21 cm / 8¼”.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= stockinette st off-white
= stockinette st black (+ glitter)
= K2 tog


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 116-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (96)

Sandra 06.11.2019 - 20:58:

Hallo, die Jacke ist wunderschön! Was muss ich beachten wenn ich statt Jacke einen Pullover stricken möchte?

DROPS Design 07.11.2019 kl. 09:02:

Liebe Sandra, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christina 19.09.2019 - 18:58:

Jag vill sticka denna som en tröja. Hur många maskor ska jag lägga upp till storlek M?

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 09:48:

Hej Christina, Du lägger upp 354 maskor i M, följer mönstret och siffer nr 2 när du har 6 på rad som här: Lägg upp 314-354-394-434-474-514 m. Lycka till!

Lisbeth Snell 13.09.2019 - 15:56:

Kan den ikke strikkes i lidt takker garn evt ??? På p 4-4 1/2 Og så lidt længere ??? Jeg skal have den strikket i xl , men syntes målene er svære at forstå

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 14:08:

Hej Lisbeth, Hvis du strikker i tykkere garn, så vil du få en helt anden størrelse. Det er vigtigt at du overholder strikkefastheden som står i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Gale 18.07.2019 - 18:41:

I am working on the yoke and have finished all the decreases. Just have the last 4 rows of plain white. Should I work those 4 rows before going on to the next paragraph that includes 1 row of decreases and short rows?

DROPS Design 19.07.2019 kl. 07:56:

Dear Gale, you first work diagram M.1 to the end (including the rows without decreases) then work 1 row from WS decreasing evenly and then work the elevation on back piece. Happy knitting!

Sissel Jacobsen 15.07.2019 - 22:00:

Vil gjærne strikke genser i dette flotte mønsteret, og lurer på om det går greit med bare å strikke rundt. Savner mønster nede på armene, hvordan går jeg fram for å få til det?

DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 14:05:

Hei Sissel. Du kan fint strikke den jakken rundt og så klipp den opp. Bare husk å legge til midtmasker/oppklippsmasker og at du får mønstret pent foran. Sjekk maske antallet på ermene og bruk evnt diagrammet til sokkene for å få mønster på ermene. God Fornøyelse"

Annelies Burri 23.06.2019 - 21:07:

Hallo,habe eine Frage zum Diagramm M1, wie stricke ich die Rũckseite? Links, ist klar aber die Farben, immer deckend oder sind Vorder-und Rũckseite auf dem Diagramm angegeben ? Herzlichen Dank fũr ihre Mũhe.

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 08:12:

Liebe Frau Burri, das Diagram zeigt alle Reihen, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen, die Rückreihen lesen Sie dann links nach rechts (= die zweitletzen M von der Hinreihe wird immer als erste M in M.1 gestrickt aber dann zuerst, dann wiederholen sie M.1 links nach rechts. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Knitix 18.05.2019 - 14:27:

Beautiful cardigan. I believe "Lagertha" would have been a much better name for it. I saw the picture and I immediately thought of "Lagertha" from the Vikings TV series.

Martha Pinzón 05.04.2019 - 04:31:

Siempre he querido tejer un suéter así y seria el primero pero para empezar necesito un patrón en español. Me puedes recomendar uno? muchas gracias. Muy lindo.

DROPS Design 07.04.2019 kl. 21:49:

Hola Martha. Echa un vistazo a nuestra colección de jerséis con dibujo nórdico: https://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=search&w=jersey&c=7&mt=1&t=0&k=0&yg=0&y=0&col=0&df=0&lang=es

Gale 02.04.2019 - 21:00:

I am knitting the cardigan with the design also on the sleeves near the cuffs as shown in one of your photos. There are 60 stitches which cannot be divided evenly in the M.2 pattern. What should I do?

DROPS Design 03.04.2019 kl. 09:31:

Dear Gale, you can adjust the number of sts to a number divisible by 8 (M.2) on the first round in M.2, then make sure to adjust the number of sts after M.2 has been worked (and remember the decrease mid under sleeve, you may have to adjust alos the decreases if M.2 is not finished when starting to decrease). Happy knitting!

Marie 27.03.2019 - 19:50:

Bizarre le motif est décalé sur la photo

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