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Winter Fantasy by DROPS Design
DROPS Jacket in ”Alpaca” and ”Glitter” with 2-colour pattern in round yoke. Size S to XXXL. Long socks in ”Fabel” with the same pattern.
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We knitted the jacket in black glitter and black alpaca. The picture doesn’t reflect the effect very well, but it gives a really nice shine.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-100-110-120-130 cm / 31½’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-43 3/8’’-47¼’’-51’’
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 8903, black.
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color no 0100, off-white
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools for all sizes color no 09, black.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3 mm/US 2or3 – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 2.5 mm/US 1 – for rib.
DROPS Shell buttons w/hole, no 525: 10 pcs.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Alpaca 100% Alpaca |
from 5.30 $ /50g | Order | ||||||||||||
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DROPS Glitter 60% Cupro, 40% Metal |
from 2.50 $ /10g | Order | ||||||||||||
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DROPS Fabel 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide |
from 3.20 $ /50g | Order | ||||||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||||||||||
Size:
5/6½ - 7½/9 – 9½/10½ (US sizes)
35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43 (EU sizes)
3/4 – 5/6½ – 7/8 (Uk sizes)
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10 5/8”
Leg length: 42-44-46 cm / 16½”-17¼”-18”
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes color no 400, black
50 g for all sizes color no 100, off-white
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
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JACKET:
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – diagram is seen from RS and shows 1 pattern repeat.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 314-354-394-434-474-514 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see above, * K2 / P3 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, K2, 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue like this until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4’’, now dec all P3 to P2 (as seen from RS) = 252-284-316-348-380-412 sts. Continue in rib, K2 / P2, with 1 edge st in garter st each side. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾’’ dec all P2 to P1 (as seen from RS) = 190-214-238-262-286-310 sts. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-17’’-17¼’’-17¾’’ work next row as follows from RS: 41-47-54-59-65-71 sts (= front piece), bind off 12 sts for armhole, 84-96-106-120-132-144 sts (= back piece), bind off 12 sts for armhole, 41-47-54-59-65-71 sts (= front piece) = 166-190-214-238-262-286 sts left on needle.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 80-80-80-88-88-88 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter. Work rib, K2 / P2. When piece measures 10 cm / 4’’ dec all P2 to P1 = 60-60-60-66-66-66 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 11-11-11-14-14-14 cm inc 1 st each side of marker mid under sleeve, repeat the inc on every 4.5-3.5-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm / 1¾”-1¼”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4” a total of 8-11-14-13-15-17 times = 76-82-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 48 cm / 19” bind off 12 sts mid under sleeve = 64-70-76-80-84-88 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.
YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 as body piece where bind off for armhole = 294-330-366-398-430-462 sts. Work 3-5-9-13-15-17 rows stockinette st with black Alpaca + Glitter, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 5-8-11-10-9-8 sts evenly = 289-322-355-388-421-454 sts. Now continue in M.1 (first row = RS) with 1 edge st in garter st each side, work the last but 1 st on row like first st in M.1, but without the dec, to make the pattern identical on both front pieces. When all dec are complete there are 107-119-131-143-155-167 sts on needle and piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’.
Work 1 row with off-white (from WS), AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-19-23-27-31-35 sts evenly = 92-100-108-116-124-132 sts. Now work shortened rows mid back with off-white as follows: Work 56-60-64-68-72-76 sts, turn, work 20 sts, turn, work 30 sts, turn, work 40 sts. Continue like this with 10 more sts before each turn until you have worked shortened rows on a total of 60-80-80-100-120 sts, turn and work return row and work 1 row on all sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder.
LEFT FRONT BAND: Pick up approx 180 to 212 sts (divisible by 4) inside 1 edge st along left front piece with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter on circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib as follows (first row = WS): 1 edge st in garter st, * P2 / K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P until rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’, bind off loosely.
RIGHT FRONT BAND: Like left front band, but after 1 cm / 3/8’’ make 9 buttonholes evenly distributed (make buttonholes in P-sections as seen from RS). 1 BUTTONHOLE = P2 tog and make 1 YO – place the bottom buttonhole in the 2nd P-section and the top one approx 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ from neckline (the last buttonhole is made on the neck).
NECK: Worked with 1 thread black Alpaca + 1 thread Glitter on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 as follows: Pick up 8 sts on right front band (inside 1 edge st), work the 92-100-108-116-124-132 sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 8 sts on left front band = 108-116-124-132-140-148 sts. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 20 sts evenly = 128-136-144-152-160-168 sts. Continue in rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K2 / P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with K over K and P over P. When neck measures 1 cm / 3/8’’ make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. When neck measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’ bind off with K over K and P over P.
ASSEMBLY: Sew on buttons. Sew openings under sleeves.
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SOCKS:
PATTERN:
See diagram M.2 – diagram shows 1 pattern repeat. We knitted the socks without Glitter.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: K2 tog into back of loop.
HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 8-9-9 sts remain, K2 tog into back of loop, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 8-9-9 sts remain, P2 tog, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work row until 7-8-8 sts remain, K2 tog into back of loop, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 7-8-8 sts remain, P2 tog, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 14-14-16 sts on needle.
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SOCKS: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 108-108-116 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with off-white. Work rib, K2 / P2 for 8 cm / 3 1/8’’.
K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 20 sts evenly = 88-88-96 sts. Continue in M.2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
After M.2 piece measures approx 21 cm / 8¼”. Insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in black stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st each side of marker – SEE DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 4-5-5 round a total of 16-14-16 times = 56-60-64 sts. When piece measures 42-44-46 cm / 16½”-17¼”-18” keep the first 28-30-32 sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 28-30-32 sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot).
Continue in stockinette st back and forth on heel-sts for 5-5.5-6 cm / 2’’-2¼’’-2 3/8’’ - insert a marker. Now work HEEL DECREASES – see above.
After heel dec pick up 13-14-16 sts each side of heel and slip the 28-30-32 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-72-80 sts. Insert a marker each side of the 28-30-32 sts on upper foot. Continue in stockinette st in the round, AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog into back of loop the last 2 sts BEFORE first marker on upper foot, and K tog the first 2 sts AFTER the second marker on upper foot. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 8-8-10 times = 52-56-60 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-19-22 cm / 7”-7½”-8¾” from marker on heel (= approx 4-5-5 cm / 1½”-2”-2” remain). Insert a marker each side with 26-28-30 sts on upper foot and 26-28-30 sts under foot. Continue in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes each side of both markers as follows: Before marker: K2 tog. After marker: K2 tog into back of loop.
Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-5-5 times and then on every round 7-7-8 times = 8 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Sock: .... = 88-88-96 sts.
Continue in M.2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
After M.2 piece measures approx 21 cm / 8¼”.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= stockinette st off-white |
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= stockinette st black (+ glitter) |
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= K2 tog |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 116-1) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (116)
From the #dropsfan gallery
Winter Fantasy
Winter Fantasy
DROPS 116-1 a Winter Fantasy Sweater
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogs and 10519 patterns - 10515 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Wordt het voor en achterpand aan elkaar gebreid? Maar niet rond (dus niet doorknippen)?
30.06.2022 - 07:50Dans la partie empiècement, que signifie: tricoter l'avant dernière maille du rang comme la 1ère de M1, mais sans les diminutions, pour que le motif soit identique sur les 2 devants? Il ne faut pas faire les diminutions mais alors pourquoi sont-elles indiquées? Cette instruction s'applique à quel(s) niveau(x) du diagramme? Merci d'avance pour votre aide.
12.02.2022 - 14:56DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Floriane, vous terminerez les répétition de M.1 en largeur en tricotant 1 maille comme la première de M.1, toutefois, lorsque l'on doit tricoter les 2 premières mailles de M.1 ensemble à l'endroit, à la fin du rang, vous tricoterez 1 maille endroit (= vous ne ferez pas la diminution). Bon tricot!
14.02.2022 kl. 09:35I would love to see the white part of this cardigan using kid silk, with mohair. Would it work if i replaced the alpaca?
29.12.2021 - 16:31DROPS Design answered:
Hello Nancy! Make sure to knit a swatch first to get the right knitting tension. Happy knitting!
30.12.2021 kl. 22:00Je viens de finir mon gilet. Il est magnifique mais je suis déçue par la taille, c'est un modèle très étroit, j'ai fait la taille S pour une personne faisant du XS, il est très juste. Pourtant les dimensions de mon échantillon étaient bonnes. J'ai beaucoup de mal avec les tailles des modèles garnstudio, tantôt c'est trop petit, tantôt c'est trop grand, je n'arrive jamais à faire une modèle qui aille bien.
24.12.2021 - 04:38DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Véronique, pensez à toujours bien vérifier votre échantillon en largeur mais aussi en hauteur, car en fonction des modèles, la hauteur sera tout aussi importante, et ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin. Nos modèles remontant à plusieurs années, choisissez toujours bien la taille en comparant les mesures du schéma à celles d'un vêtement similaire qui va au/à la destinataire. Bon tricot!
03.01.2022 kl. 14:43Bonjour, J'aimerais réaliser ce modèle en pull avec les mêmes motifs, pourriez vous me dire comment faire ??
05.11.2021 - 13:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Sarah, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle de pull du groupe A (retrouvez ici les nordiques en laine du groupe A). Votre magasin saura vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!
05.11.2021 kl. 15:55Hvor store skal knapperne være - 10-15 mm eller...????
11.10.2021 - 14:07DROPS Design answered:
Hei Gitte. I oppskriften står det: DROPS Skjellknapp med hull nr 525: 10 stk. Disse knappene er 15mm. Om du klikker på menyen Pinde & Mere, deretter Knapper, så scroll ned til Perlemorknapper vil du finne knapp nr 525. Der står det størrelse og pris. mvh DROPS Design
11.10.2021 kl. 14:58Hello, beautiful pattern. I am at the yoke section of the sweater, at M1. However, the white ’dots’ at the bottom of the icicle motif hardly show on the black background- the white yarn sinks into the black completely while some of the white at the back of the work shows through. Is there anything I may be doing wrong and how could I make the white drops show more? Perhaps when I block it? Thanks
10.08.2021 - 20:15DROPS Design answered:
Dear Tombochan, make sure the yarn is not too tight on wrong side (if necessary you can cross the yarns/colours between each white dots), and then blocking jacket before wearing might also help. Your DROPS store might have even more tipps for you, do not hesitate to ask them - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!
11.08.2021 kl. 09:35Thank you for your quick response to my previous question. I have another. What is the meaning and intended use for the abbreviations immediately after M. 1 on the Diagram, I.e. 55 p/v = ca ?
15.05.2021 - 20:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Theresa, that is the number of rows (55 or 41) and the length of those number of rows knitted (in cms). Happy Knitting!
15.05.2021 kl. 23:52Yoke: Do I decrease across all stitches on my needle including the sleeves in the first row decrease?
10.05.2021 - 20:21DROPS Design answered:
Dear Theresa, yes, you should decrease the given number of stitches "evenly" (divided evenly among the stitches) across the whole row, Happy Knitting!
10.05.2021 kl. 22:31Skall verkligen ärmen vara 48 cm oavsett storlek?
01.04.2021 - 22:02DROPS Design answered:
Hej Tina, ja det stemmer, du finder målene fra nakken og ud til ærmet i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)
07.04.2021 kl. 10:13