Sweet Snow by DROPS Design

Set of knitted socks and jumper with cables and seamless sleeves, for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Bust: 50-58-62 (70-74) cm [19¾”-22¾”-24 3/8” (27½”-29 1/8”)]
Full length: 26-28-31 (33-36) cm [10¼”-11”-12¼” (13”-14¼”)]
Sock foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
JUMPER:
200-200-250 (250-300) g color no 01, off-white
SOCKS:
50-50-100 (100-100) g color no 01, off-white
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JUMPER:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm [24’’]) size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS POINTED Needles size 3.5 mm [US 4] – for rib.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 503: 2 pcs.

SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED Needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JUMPER:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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JUMPER: To fit in all sts, front and back pieces are worked back and forth on circular needle (rib worked on pointed needles).

FRONT PIECE: Cast on 66-74-82 (90-98) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on pointed needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib, K1/P1, with 1 edge st in garter st each side back and forth on needle for 4 cm [1½’’]. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7], K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-5-9 (9-13) sts evenly = 61-69-73 (81-85) sts. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 garter st, 12-16-18 (22-24) stockinette sts, P2, M.1, P2, M.2, P2, M.1, P2, 12-16-18 (22-24) stockinette sts and 1 garter st. Continue back and forth on needle in pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 16-17-19 (20-22) cm [6¼’’-6¾’’-7½’’ (8’’-8¾’’)] cast on new sts each side for sleeves. Cast on at the beg of every row from the sides: 4 sts 2-2-1 (1-1) times, 6 sts 1-1-1 (2-1) times, 8 sts 0-0-1 (1-2) times and 10-11-11 (14-20) sts 1 time = 109-119-131 (157-177) sts. Continue in pattern and stockinette st as before with inc sts for sleeves in stockinette st.
When piece measures approx 22-24-26 (28-31) cm [8 ¾”-9½”-10¼” (11”-12¼”)] dec as follows on next row from RS: 5 sts evenly on M.2 and 2 sts evenly on each repeat of M.1 = 100-110-122 (148-168) sts. On next row slip the middle 10-10-12 (14-16) sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately.
LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: = 45-50-55 (67-76) sts. Continue in stockinette st on M.1 with remaining sts as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 41-46-51 (63-72) sts left on shoulder/sleeve. Bind off when piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm [10¼”-11”-12¼” (13”-14¼”)].
RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: = 45-50-55 (67-76) sts. Continue and bind off for neckline as described for left shoulder. When piece measures 24-26-29 (31-34) cm [9½”-10¼”-11 3/8” (12¼”-13 3/8”)] continue in garter st on the 12-13-14 (15-16) sts towards mid front (work remaining sts as before). After 4 rows garter st make 2 buttonholes from RS as follows: K2 tog, 1 YO, K 5-6-7 (8-9), K2 tog, 1 YO, work remaining sts on row. Continue as before until piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm [10¼”-11”-12¼” (13”-14¼”)]. Bind off.

BACK PIECE: Cast on 66-74-82 (90-98) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on pointed needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine.
Work rib, K1/P1, with 1 edge st in garter st each side, back and forth on needle for 4 cm [1½’’]. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7], K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-14-18 (18-22) sts evenly = 52-60-64 (72-76) sts. K 1 row from WS and continue in stockinette st with 1 garter st each side. When piece measures 16-17-19 (20-22) cm [6¼’’-6¾’’-7½’’ (8’’-8¾’’)] cast on new sts for sleeves each side as described for front piece = 100-110-122 (148-168) sts. Continue in stockinette st on all sts. When piece measures 24-26-29 (31-34) cm [9½”-10¼”-11 3/8” (12¼”-13 3/8”)] bind off the middle 16-16-18 (20-22) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately.
LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: = 42-47-52 (64-73) sts. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on next row from neckline = 41-46-51 (63-72) sts left on shoulder/sleeve. Bind off when piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm [10¼”-11”-12¼” (13”-14¼”)].
RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: = 42-47-52 (64-73) sts. Continue as described for left shoulder = 41-46-51 (63-72) sts. When piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm [10¼”-11”-12¼” (13”-14¼”)] bind off the first 29-33-37 (48-56) sts from sleeve edge towards shoulder. Work 1.5 cm [½”] stockinette st with 1 garter st each side on remaining 12-13-14 (15-16) sts (= buttonhole edge), K 1 row from WS on all sts and bind off from RS.

ASSEMBLY: Sew upper arm seams, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam – on right shoulder sew up to buttonhole edge. CUFFS: Pick up 38-42-46 (50-54) m sts on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] along sleeve edge. K 2 rows and continue in rib, K1/P1, with 1 garter st each side. Bind off when rib measures 4 cm [1½’’]. Repeat on the other sleeve.
Sew side and under arm seams inside 1 edge st.
NECKLINE: Pick up approx 52 to 68 sts from RS round neckline (includes sts on st holder at front) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] and K 5 rows back and forth on needle, bind off.
Sew on shoulder buttons.
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SOCKS:
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 7-9-9 (9-9) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

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Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 8-8-9 (9-10) cm [3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3½” (3½”-4”)] rib, K3/P3, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-0-4 (2-0) sts evenly = 28-30-32 (34-36) sts. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Now keep the first 15-17-17 (19-19) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm [1 1/8’’-1¼’’-1½’’ (1½’’-1¾’’)] stockinette st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 7-8-9 (9-10) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 34-38-42 (42-46) sts. Continue in stockinette st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot as follows: K tog the 2 sts before the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts into back of loop and K tog the 2 sts after the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-6-6 (6-6) times = 26-26-30 (30-34) sts. Continue until piece measures approx 8-9-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm [3 1/8”-3½”,3¾” (4½”-4 7/8”)] from marker on heel (approx 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3.5) cm [3/4”-3/4”-7/8” (7/8”-1¼”)] remain). Now insert a marker each side with 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot and 13-13-15 (15-17) sts under foot. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every other round 2-2-3 (3-5) times and then on every round 3-3-3 (3-2) times = 6 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Michaela wrote:

Schade, dass Sie keine andere E-Mail-Adresse zur Verfügung stellen - dann müsste man das hier nicht öffentlich "ausfechten". Ich benötige keine Anleitung, wie man Maschen abnimmt! Für mich ist nicht nachvollziehbar, wie die Teile aufeinanderpassen sollen, wenn ich beim Vorderteil nach dem Bündchen 5 Maschen und beim Rückenteil 14 Maschen abketten soll. Aber ich gebe es jetzt auf und suche mir ein anderes Muster.

08.08.2022 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, damit die Bündchen nicht so eng werden, schlägt man mehr Maschen als man für das glatt rechts braucht, deshalb schlagen Sie 66-74 Maschen (1. + 2. Größe) und nach dem Bündchen 14 M abnimmt (nicht abkettet, dies wird korrigiert), so haben Sie 52-60 M = ca 26-30 cm (siehe Maßskizze). Wenn nach dem Rippenmuster-Rand abgenommen wird, kann man damit vermeiden, dass der Rand deutlich enger wird als das restliche Rumpfteil. Beim Vorderteil stricken Sie dann Zöpfte, und für Zöpfe brauchen Sie auch mehr Maschen als fürs glatt rechts, deshalb ist die Maschenanzahl beim Vorder- und Rückenteil unterschiedlich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.08.2022 kl. 13:54

country flag Michaela wrote:

Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort. Allerdings passt sie nicht zu meiner Frage. Laut Anleitung soll die Abnahme der 14 Maschen gleich nach dem Bündchen in der ersten Reihe mit dem Nadelwechsel erfolgen - was mir nicht richtig erscheint: 4 cm Bündchen stricken = 1 re. / 1 li. Zu Rundstricknadel Nr. 4,5, wechseln und 1 R. re. auf rechts stricken – GLEICHZEITIG gleichmässig verteilt 14-14-18 (18-22) M. abk. = 52-60-64 (72-76). 1 R. re. von links stricken und danach glatt weiter stricken.

05.08.2022 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, oops ja sorry, ich hatte Ihre Frage misverstanden (war schon bei den Schultern...) - am Anfang vom Rückenteil nehmen Sie 14 Maschen regelmäßig verteilt ab - hier wird es erklärt, wie man so abnimmt. viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.08.2022 kl. 16:18

country flag Michaela wrote:

Für das Rückenteil soll man gleich nach dem Bündchen 14 M abketten - nahezu das Dreifache zum Vorderteil. Wie soll das funktionieren, ohne dass der Pulli viel zu eng wird und die Teile aufeinander passen?

03.08.2022 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, bei der rechten Schulter/Ärmel Vorderteil haben Sie alle Maschen (Ärmel + Schulter mit Bündchen) gestrickt), bei der rechten Schulter/Ärmel Rückenteil werden zuerst die ersten 37 Maschen für die Ärmel abgekettet, dann über die 14 übrigen Maschen (Knopfleiste) stricken - die passen dann mit den 14 Maschen, die Sie kraus rechts bei der rechten Schulter Vorderteil gestrickt haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.08.2022 kl. 08:04

country flag Eugenia K wrote:

Hello, dear Drops team. The pattern is lovely but I cannot understand how the increases for the sleeves are done. The pattern says cast on at the beg of each row on sides. Does that mean RS and WS or at the beg and end of each WS row? Also, there is no tutorial on increasing on purl row (WS). Thank you in advance for your quick reply.

07.08.2021 - 09:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eugenia K, you have to cast on the new stitches at the end of each row, both from RS and from WS to get both sleeves the same. Increase new stitches on each side as in this video, but increase the new stitches at the end of a row from RS and work them purl at the beg of next row and incraese at the beg of a row from WS and work them knit a the beg of next row (= stocking stitch). Happy knitting!

09.08.2021 kl. 08:50

country flag Fran wrote:

After the k1p1, The pattern says to reduce the number of stitches evenly and then when I go to do the cables, the number of stitches that I need to have far exceeds the stitches that I have left. For example I reduced to 69 stitches but the pattern calls for at least 74+ the pearl stitches between the cables please help

24.06.2021 - 01:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fan, in the 2nd size work as follows: 1 st in garter st, 16 sts in stocking st, P2, M.1(= 6 sts), P2, M.2 (= 15 sts), P2, M.1 (= 6 sts), P2, 16 sts in stocking st and 1 st in garter st = 1+16+2+6+2+15+2+6+2+16+1=69 sts. Happy knitting!

24.06.2021 kl. 08:37

country flag Annette wrote:

1ribbelst, 12-16-18 (22-24) tricotst, 2 av, M.1, 2 av, M.2, 2 av, M.1, 2 av, 12-16-18 (22-24) tricotst en 1 ribbelst. Brei zo verder heen en weer op de nld in patroon. Dit is de beschrijving van het patroon. De 2 AV steken tussen m1 en m2. Wat moet ik hiervoor een de verkeerde kant breien.

18.11.2020 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annette,

Deze averechte steken brei je recht op de verkeerde kant.

19.11.2020 kl. 10:25

country flag Pat Vaughan wrote:

I don't understand the Diagram explanations. What is M.2 & M.1 Directions say 24 Stockinette sts, P 2 M.1,P2, M.2 P2, 24 stockinette But I don't understand the M.2 & M.1 pattern blocks. Please clarify.

10.08.2020 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Pat, You can find patterns M.1 and M.2 at the bottom of the page. M.1 is stocking stitch with a cable, consisting og 6 stitches, M.2 has a textured pattern and cables and consists of 15 stitches. Happy knitting!

11.08.2020 kl. 07:13

country flag Jennifer Dorndorf wrote:

Hallo, Es ist der erste Pulli den ich jemals stricke! Bisher fand ich es immer komplizierter als häkeln! Aber so ist gar nicht! Dennoch habe ich eine Frage! Ich habe die Maschen auf den Hilfsfaden gelegt, muss ich denn für die Ärmel/ Schultern eine weitere Stricknadel dazu nehmen? Und die Ärmel getrennt stricken? Ich hoffe ihr versteht was ich meine! Liebe Grüße

26.01.2020 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dorndorf, nachdem Sie die Maschen für den Haslausschnitt stillgelegt haben, dann stricken Sie beiden Schulter separat, der eine Schulter nach der andere. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.01.2020 kl. 09:08

country flag PANZARELLA wrote:

Bonjour, Dans vos explications vous dites de tricoter toujours comme ceci : 1 m point mousse, 12-16-18 (22-24) m jersey, 2 m env, M1, 2 m env, M2, 2 m env, M1, 2 m env, 12-16-18 (22-24) m jersey, 1 m point mousse Je dois tricoter les mailles envers à l'endroit et à l'envers du tricot ? Je vous remercie d'avance. Bien cordialement

10.11.2019 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Panzarella, les m envers sur l'endroit doivent toujours apparaître ainsi = à l'envers sur l'endroit; sur l'envers, on va les tricoter à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

11.11.2019 kl. 10:46

country flag Pia wrote:

Tack f snabbt svar, det är den fiffiga modellen med två stycken vi gillar.😊 Den finns väl inte i större storlekar?

08.11.2018 - 10:01

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