Like it? Share it!

You might also like...

related pattern
related pattern
related pattern
  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Ponchos
  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 17
  6. 5

Baby Dove by DROPS Design

Set of knitted poncho and hat with cables plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Keywords: bottom up, cable, hat, headwear, high neck, poncho, round yoke, set, socks

Like it? Share it!

DROPS Baby 17-5
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Full length: 23-25-27 (31-33) cm [9”-9¾”-10 5/8” (12¼”-13”)]

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
PONCHO:
100-150-150 (200-250) g color no 01, off-white
HAT:
50-50-100 (100-100) g color no 01, off-white
SOCKS:
50-50-100 (100-100) g color no 01, off-white
----------------------------------------------------------

PONCHO:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm [24’’]) size 4 mm [US 6] – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm [16” and 24”]) size 3.5 mm [US 4] – for rib.

HAT:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 4 mm [US 6] – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 3.5 mm [US 4] – for rib.

SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED Needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool 		from 2.80 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20$. Read more.

You might also like...

related pattern
related pattern
related pattern

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PONCHO:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

PONCHO:
Worked from the bottom and up in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 272-288-300 (340-360) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 cm [1½’’] rib, K2/P2. Change to circular needle size 4 mm [US 6] and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 56-60-60 (68-72) sts evenly = 216-228-240 (272-288) sts. Work next round as follows: * M.1, P 28-30-32 (26-28), M.2, P 28-30-32 (26-28) *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3 (4-4) times.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on second round dec 1 st on the left side of each P-section by P2 tog. Repeat the dec on every 2-2-2 (3-3) round on the right and left side of each P-section alternately a total of 22-23-25 (20-21) times = 84-90-90 (112-120) sts. Now K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts on all M.1 and M.2 repeats = 66-72-72 (88-96) sts. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 10-12-16 (12-12) sts evenly = 76-84-88 (100-108) sts. Piece now measures approx 20-21-23 (26-27) cm [8”-8¼”-9” (10¼”-10 5/8”)]. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] and work 3-4-4 (5-6) cm [1 1/8”-1½”-1½” (2”-2 3/8”)] rib, K2/P2. Bind off in rib. Poncho measures approx 23-25-27 (31-33) cm [9”-9¾”-10 5/8” (12¼”-13”)].
----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Head circumference: 40/42 - 44/46 - 46/48 (48/50 - 50/52) cm [16''-17½''-18½'' (19''-20'')].
PATTERN: See diagram M.2 and M.3. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.
----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 96-100-100 (104-112) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2.
When rib measures 4-4-5 (5-5) cm [1½”-1½”-2” (2”-2”)] change to circular needle size 4 mm [US 6], K 1 round, P 1 round and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-8 (8-8) sts evenly = 100-104-108 (112-120) sts.
Continue as follows: P 3-3-3 (4-5), M.2, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.3, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.2, P 6-6-6 (8-10), M.2, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.3, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.2, P 3-3-3 (4-5).
When piece measures approx 11-12-13 (14-15) cm [4 3/8”-4¾”-5 1/8” (5½”-6”)] work next round as follows: * P3, P2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 0-4-3 (2-0) sts remain, P these = 80-84-87 (90-96) sts.
Now P all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 17-18-19 (20-21) sts evenly on every other round a total of 4 times = 12-12-11 (10-12) sts. NOTE: change to double pointed needles when sts no longer fit circular needle. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Hat measures approx 14-15-16 (17-18) cm [5½”-6”-6¼” (6¾”-7”)].
----------------------------------------------------------
SOCK:

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 7-9-9 (9-9) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
--------------------------------------------------------
SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 8-8-9 (9-10) cm [3 1/8’’-3 1/8’’-3½’’ (3½’’-4’’)] rib, K3/P3, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-0-4 (2-0) sts evenly = 28-30-32 (34-36) sts. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Now keep the first 15-17-17 (19-19) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm [1 1/8’’-1¼’’-1½’’ (1½’’-1¾’’)] stockinette st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 7-8-9 (9-10) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 34-38-42 (42-46) sts. Continue in stockinette st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot as follows: K tog the 2 sts before the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts into back of loop and K tog the 2 sts after the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-6-6 (6-6) times = 26-26-30 (30-34) sts. Continue until piece measures approx 8-9-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm [3 1/8’’-3½’’-3¾’’ (4½’’-4 7/8’’)] from marker on heel (approx 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3.5) cm [3/4’’-3/4’’-7/8’’ (7/8’’-1¼’’)] remain). Now insert a marker each side with 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot and 13-13-15 (15-17) sts under foot. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every other round 2-2-3 (3-5) times and then on every round 3-3-3 (3-2) times = 6 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.10.2009
PONCHO:
Worked from the bottom and up in the round on circular needle.
Updated online: 22.10.2009
PONCHO:
Worked from the bottom and up in the round on circular needle.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = Slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = Slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
symbols = Slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (111)

country flag Margit Jensen wrote:

Jeg vil gerne strikke denne opskrift i Drops air. i stedet for Drops Merino Ekstra fine Kan jeg godt bytte til Drops Air

09.09.2022 - 06:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Margit, for at få målene i måleskitsen skal du overholde strikkefastheden som står i opskriften og det bliver svært med DROPS Air (den bliver lidt kompakt) men du kan bruge DROPS Sky hvis du vil have et lettere garn :)

09.09.2022 kl. 11:53

country flag MICHELE GOURIER wrote:

Bonjour,je souhaiterais axceder au tuto pour le modéle poncho numéro me -012-by vous pouvez me joindre par téléphone merci j attend votre réponse cordialement michélle

28.04.2022 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michelle, pour accéder aux explications de ce modèle en français, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo et sélectionnez "Français". Bon tricot!

28.04.2022 kl. 12:01

country flag Ernestine wrote:

I'd like to fijnd out more? I'd love to find out more details. бодибилдер профессия web page качать бицепс

06.01.2022 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ernestine, please feel free to ask your question here or contact your DROPS store in Russia. Happy knitting!

06.01.2022 kl. 14:15

country flag Dani wrote:

Can you explain how to decrease 3 stitches over the M1 and M2 patterns??

31.12.2021 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dani, you knit 2 stitches together twice, distributed evenly over the pattern. It is done so it would not flare out. Happy Stitching!

03.01.2022 kl. 01:53

country flag Marco Esposito wrote:

Cosa vuol dire diminuire 3 maglie in ogni ripetizione di m1 m2?

26.12.2021 - 00:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marco, deve procedere come indicato diminuendo 3 maglie in ogni ripetizione di M.1 e M.2. Buon lavoro!

26.12.2021 kl. 22:47

country flag Maja Jakobsson wrote:

Förstår inte mönstret Drops baby 17-5! Ska M2 vara med? Enligt bild syns inte den! Ska ponchon verkligen endast ha 3 flätor? Enligt bild har den ju 6! Hur ska jag minska om M2 inte ska vara med? Mvh Maja

05.11.2021 - 12:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maja. Om du ser på bildet, så er det 2 ulike fletter i front (M. 1 og M.2). Så først strikker du M.1 (små fletter), 28 masker vrang. M.2 (store fletter), 28 masker vrang. Gjenta dette 2 ganger til. Du har nå 6 fletter rundt (3 små (M.1) og 3 store (M.2)). mvh DROPS Design

08.11.2021 kl. 13:51

country flag Leo wrote:

No entiendo los diagramas si en la foto de poncho solo se ve un trenza. Entinces que es M1 y M2

08.08.2021 - 03:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Leo. Son dos tipos de trenzas diferentes.

11.08.2021 kl. 17:03

country flag Maria Leech wrote:

Jag har försökt att sticka Poncho mönster 17-5. Jag undrar om minskningar som ska göras vartannat varv (på strl 12-18 mån), sedan också på vartannat höger/vänster sida av de aviga fälten ska ha 2 varv mellanrum? Mao; minska på vänster sida på v1, sticka v2, minska på höger sida på v3, sticka v4. Eller; minska på vänster sida på v1, minska på höger sida på v2, vänster på v3 och så vidare?

14.07.2021 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria. Du minskar på vänster sida på v 1, stickar varv 2 utan minskningar, minskar på höger sida på varv 3 osv i storlek 12-18 mån. Mvh DROPS Design

15.07.2021 kl. 07:56

country flag Patricia Jean Crew wrote:

Do your free patterns come in the form of a pdf, as I would like to print them off?

21.03.2021 - 13:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia Jean, you should be able to turn the pattern into pdf by clicking on the print button and then, in your computer's printing screen, clicking on "Save as PDF". Happy knitting!

21.03.2021 kl. 23:39

country flag Kathie wrote:

THE WORST pattern I have ever worked on in my 50 years of knitting. VERY AMBIGUOUS decrease directions on poncho. HORRIBLE! Waste of yarn and a large amount of time.

18.01.2021 - 02:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathie, we are very sorry to hear that you had so many troubles to understand this pattern, remember you can always ask your question here and request any individual assistance from the store where you bought your yarn. Happy knitting!

18.01.2021 kl. 11:05

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 17-5

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.