DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 68.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Matheo

Set of knitted jacket with hood, socks and blanket with cables for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Theme: Baby blanket

DROPS Baby 17-2
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Bust:48-54-60 (70-76) cm [19”-21¼”-23 5/8” (27½-30”)]
Full length: 28-30-34 (38-41) cm [11”-11¾”-13 3/8” (15”-16 1/8”)]
Sock foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)]
Measurements blanket: approx 56 x 92 cm [22” x 36”]

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
JACKET:
250-300-300 (350-400) g color no 01, off-white
SOCKS:
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 01, off-white
BLANKET:
450 g color no 01, of-white
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JACKET:
DROPS POINTED Needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS POINTED Needles size 3.5 mm [US 4] – for rib.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 503: 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs.

SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED Needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

BLANKET:
DROPS POINTED Needles size 5 mm [US 8] – or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm [H/8].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 68.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K.
Repeat row 2.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 3, 8, 13, 18 and 23 cm [1 1/8”, 3 1/8”, 5 1/8”, 7” 9”]
SIZE 6/9 months: 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 cm [2”, 4”, 6”, 8”, 9¾”]
SIZE 12/18 months: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm [2”, 4 3/8” 6 ¾”, 9”, 11 3/8”]
SIZE 2 years: 5, 11, 16, 21, 27 and 32 cm [2”, 4 3/8”, 6¼”, 8¼”, 10 5/8”, 12½”]
SIZE 3/4 years: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29 and 35 cm [2”, 4 3/8”, 6¾”, 9”, 11 3/8”, 13¾”]
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BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 72-80-84 (96-104) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 1 edge st. When rib measures 4 cm [1½’’] change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-6 (8-10) sts evenly = 66-72-78 (88-94) sts. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts – SEE ABOVE – P 2, M.1 (= 15 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.3 (= 6 sts), P 2, M.3 (= 6 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.2 (= 15 sts), P 2, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts and 1 edge st.
Continue in pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm [6¾’’-7’’-8¼’’ (9½’’-10¼’’)] bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2 (3-3) times and 1 st 2-3-2 (2-2) times = 56-56-60 (66-72) sts. When piece measures 26-28-32 (36-39) cm [10¼”-11”-12½” (14¼”-15¼”)] work the 6 sts on M.3 tog 2 by 2 = 50-50-54 (60-66) sts. On next row bind off the middle 12-12-16 (20-22) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 18-18-18 (19-21) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 28-30-34 (38-41) cm [11”-11¾”-13 3/8” (15”-16 1/8”)] dec 6 sts evenly on row = 12-12-12 (13-15) sts left on shoulder, bind off on next row.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle from mid front.
Cast on 42-46-50 (54-58) sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 5 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib as follows from mid front (first row = RS): 5 garter sts (= front band), * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Remember buttonholes on front band - SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 4 cm [1½’’] change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7], K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-5-6 (5-6) sts evenly (do not dec on front band) = 38-41-44 (49-52) sts. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts (= front band), P 1, M.3 (= 6 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.1 (= 15 sts), P 2, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm [6¾’’-7’’-8¼’’ (9½’’-10¼’’)] bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 33-33-35 (38-41) sts. When piece measures 24-26-30 (33-36) cm [9½”-10¼”-11¾” (13”-14¼”)] work the 6 sts on M.3 tog 2 by 2 = 30-30-32 (35-38) sts. Now slip the 8-8-10 (12-13) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 18-18-18 (19-21) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 28-30-34 (38-41) cm [11”-11¾”-13 3/8” (15”-16 1/8”)] dec 6 sts evenly = 12-12-12 (13-15) sts left on shoulder, bind off

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work like right front piece, but mirrored, i.e. work first row as follows from the side: 1 edge st * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 5 garter sts (= front band).
When working pattern work row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts, P 2, M.2 (= 15 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.3 (= 6 sts), P 1 and 5 garter sts (= front band).
Do not make buttonholes!

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 46-46-46 (50-50) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 cm [1½’’] rib, K2/P2, with 1 edge st each side. Change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-8-8 (10-10) sts evenly = 36-38-38 (40-40) sts. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st, 12-13-13 (14-14) moss sts, P 2, M.3 (= 6 sts), P 2, 12-13-13 (14-14) moss sts and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm [2¾’’] inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 4th row a total of 6-7-9 (10-12) times = 48-52-56 (60-64) sts – work the inc sts in moss st. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm [6¾”-7”-8¼” (9½”-11”)] bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, and then 2 sts until piece measures 21-23-26 (30-34) cm [8¼”-9”-10¼” (11¾”-13 3/8”)], now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time, AT THE SAME TIME on the last row work the 6 sts on M.3 tog 2 by 2. Bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 22-24-27 (31-35) cm [8¾”-9½”-10 5/8” (12¼”-13¾”)].

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.
HOOD: Pick up approx 46 to 68 sts (includes sts on stitch holders at front) round neckline on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. K 2 rows, AT THE SAME TIME on second row inc evenly to 68-72-76 (80-84) sts. Continue in reverse stockinette st with 5 garter sts each side until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm [8¼”-9”-9¾” (10 5/8”-11”)], bind off. Sew hood tog at the top, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.
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SOCK:

PATTERN: See diagram M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

HEEL DECREASES:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work row until 5-5-6 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 2 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-6 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 3 (= RS): Work row until 4-4-5 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 4 (= WS): Work row until 4-4-5 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 9-9-12 (12-12) sts on row.
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SOCK: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 36-36-42 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Merino Extra Fine and work 2 cm [3/4’’] rib, K3/P3. Work 1 round rib, AT THE SAME TIME inc all K3 to K4 = 42-42-49 (49-49) sts. Work 1 round K4/P3. Now continue as follows: * M.4, P3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-6-7 (7-7) times. After 3 vertical repeats of M.4 work sts in M.4 tog 2 by 2 = 30-30-35 (35-35) sts. Now keep the first 17-17-22 (22-22) sts on needle for heel and slip remaining 13 sts on a stitch holder (= upper foot). Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm [1 1/8’’-1¼’’-1½’’ (1½’’-1¾’’)] stockinette st back and forth on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 7-8-9 (9-10) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 36-38-43 (43-45) sts. Continue in stockinette st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows on each side of the 13 sts on upper foot: K tog the 2 sts before the 13 sts on upper foot into back of loop and K tog the 2 sts after the 13 sts. Dec on every other row a total of 5-6-7 (6-6) times = 26-26-29 (31-33) sts.
When piece measures approx 8-9-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm [3 1/8’’-3½’’-3¾’’ (4½’’-4 7/8’’)] from marker on heel (approx 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3.5) cm [3/4’’-3/4’’-7/8’’ (7/8’’-1¼’’)] remain) insert 1 marker each side with 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot and 13-13-14 (16-16) sts under foot. Dec on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP – on every other round 2-2-3 (3-5) times and then on every round 3-3-3 (3-2) times = 6-6-5 (7-5) sts. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].
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BLANKET

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

INCREASING TIP: Make all inc from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

PATTERN: See diagram M.5. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

BLANKET:
Blanket is made up of 12 squares, sewn tog 3 by 4.
1 square measures approx: width 18 cm [7’’], length 22.5 cm [8 7/8”]

1 SQUARE: Cast on 36 sts on needle size 5 mm [US 8] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 8 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly on the middle 26 sts = 46 sts.
Work next row from WS as follows: 5 garter sts, K3, P6, K 4, P3, K4, P3, K4, P6, K3 and 5 garter sts.
Continue as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, M.5 on the next 36 sts, 5 garter sts.
Work 4 vertical repeats of M.5 like this, but on the last repeat finish when 2 rows of diagram remain. K 1 row from RS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10 sts on the middle 36 sts = 36 sts. Work 8 rows garter st on all sts and bind off loosely.
Note: You may work 4 squares in a row without binding off, i.e. beg a new square after the last 8 rows in garter st.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the squares tog, 3 by 4. Sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round the whole blanket with crochet hook size 5 mm [H/8] as follows: * 1 sc in edge st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the first of these 3 ch, skip 1 cm [3/8’’] *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.09.2009
Blanket: ...Continue as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, M.5 on the next 36 sts, 5 garter sts.
Work 4 vertical repeats of M.5 like this, but on the last repeat finish when 2 rows of diagram remain.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = Bobble. Work 5 sts in 1 st as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1. Work 4 rows stockinette st on these 5 sts. Now lift second st over first st, third st over first st, fourth st over first st and fifth st over first st =1 st left.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (142)

country flag Aurélie wrote:

Bonjour, Je souhaite faire la veste. J'ai vu que pour l'échantillon vous proposez de faire uniquement du jersey. Or, ce modèle ayant des torsades, celles-ci réduisent le tricot. Comment faire pour savoir si notre travail va correspondre aux dimensions du modèle ? Merci d'avance pour votre retour.

14.02.2024 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aurélie, si votre échantillon en jersey est juste, et que vous conservez la même tension en tricotant par la suite, alors les mesures finales seront justes car les ajustements sont faits dans le nombre de mailles pour chaque taille. Bon tricot!

14.02.2024 - 16:28

country flag Lene Hallingore wrote:

Jeg kan ikke se i vejledningen, hvad jeg skal strikke mellem diagrammerne på vrangpindene.

27.11.2023 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lene. Fra vrangen strikker vrangmaskene rett og perlestrikk over perlestrikk. Om du ser på bildet vil du se at det bare er vrangmasker mellom f.eks diagram M.3 og M.1. mvh DROPS Design

27.11.2023 - 10:30

country flag Anne-Berit Storrød wrote:

Hei. Jeg strikker jakken i str 6/9 mnd og holder på med bakstykket. Når jeg har felt til ermer har jeg 56 m på pinnen. Da er det kun mønster og vrangmaskene før, mellom og etter igjen. (Det er felt 8 masker i hver side og det utgjør 7 m perlestrikk og 1 stk kantmaske.) Skal man da ikke fortsette med 1 stk kantmaske ?

21.01.2023 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Berit, Nei, det er ikke nødvendig med kantmasker langs ermhullene. Ermene sys i vrangmaskene. God fornøyelse!

22.01.2023 - 08:23

country flag Kati Salonius wrote:

Voisiko ohjeen tehdä ilman huppua?

18.09.2022 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Voit neuloa jakun ilman huppua. Poimi tällöin silmukoita pääntien reunasta ja neulo esim. joustinneuleinen pääntien reunus.

20.09.2022 - 18:44

country flag Valentina wrote:

Potete verificare nello schema M5 che la treccia centrale, quella con la nocciolina, sia corretta? Ho seguito tutto lo schema ma non viene come nella foto. Grazie mille

11.09.2022 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina, in quale punto trova difficoltà? ha seguito lo schema dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra? Buon lavoro!

12.09.2022 - 21:44

country flag Velma wrote:

Im starting the back now and you only give instructions for the first row. What do i knit for the second row and does these 2 rows form the pattern

17.07.2022 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Velma, in fact, the rib pattern is formed by the first row already. For second row you knit stitches just as you see it: i.e. 1 edge st, P2, K2, ... Happy knitting!

18.07.2022 - 15:22

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Ich hab noch eine Frage. Dieses Mal zu den Ärmeln: es sollen 10 mal beidseitig 2 Maschen zugenommen werden. Ich stricke also am Anfang und Ende jeder vierten Reihe eine Masche dazu. Das gibt doch aber insgesamt 20 Maschen (=10x2Maschen) , dann hat das Strickstück nach allen Zunahmen aber 70 und nicht 60 Maschen . Was verstehe ich falsch ?

30.03.2021 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nathalie, es sind 40 Maschen (4. Größe) + 2 Maschen x 10 Mal =40+20=60 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.04.2021 - 10:11

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Ich stricke die Jacke, beim rechten Vorderteil verstehe ich nicht, welche Maschen ich auf die Hilfsnadel nehmen soll : die Maschen an der Ärmelkante oder die, die zur Knopfleiste zeigen?

18.02.2021 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nathalie, beim rechten Vorderteil legen Sie die ersten Maschen am Anfang einer Hinreihe still = die 5 Blenden-Maschen + (je nach der Größe) 3 bis 10 Maschen dazu = 8, 10, 12 oder 13 M sind jetzt auf der Hilfsnadel, jetzt stricken Sie wie zuvor und ketten neuen Maschen am Anfang der Reihe ab Halsausschnitt - die stillgelegten Maschen werden später für die Kapuze aufgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.02.2021 - 07:55

country flag Claudia wrote:

Ich hätte da nochmal eine Frage: bei der Jacke steht: 1 R. re. auf rechts stricken – GLEICHZEITIG gleichmässig verteilt 6-8-6 (8-10) M. abk. = 66-72-78 (88-94) M. 1 R. re. von links stricken. Heißt dass, ich stricke eine Reihe mit Rechte Maschen + der Abnahme. Und danach die Rückreihe auch mit rechten Maschen. Oder linke Maschen ( linke Seite) damit ich dann auf der rechten Seite rechte Maschen sehe? Lg

19.01.2021 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, ja genau, bei einer Hinreihe nehmen Sie regelmäßig verteilt ab und bei der Rückreihe stricken Sie alle Maschen rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.01.2021 - 07:59

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo. Ab wann Mist man die Knopflöcher ? Gr 1/3 Monate - 3-8-13cm.... Gemessen von anfangen an, ganz unten oder erst nach dem Bündchen ab gemessen Lg

18.01.2021 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, messen Sie von ganz unten, dh von der Anschlagskante. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.01.2021 - 07:39