Beech wood No. 503
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (US/in)
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Beech wood No. 503
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle | |
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle | |
= Bobble. Work 5 sts in 1 st as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1. Work 4 rows stockinette st on these 5 sts. Now lift second st over first st, third st over first st, fourth st over first st and fifth st over first st =1 st left. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Matheo |
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Set of knitted jacket with hood, socks and blanket with cables for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Theme: Baby blanket
DROPS Baby 17-2 |
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JACKET: MOSS ST: Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2. PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE 1/3 months: 3, 8, 13, 18 and 23 cm [1⅛", 3⅛", 5⅛", 7" 9"] SIZE 6/9 months: 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 cm [2", 4", 6", 8", 9¾"] SIZE 12/18 months: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm [2", 4⅜" 6 ¾", 9", 11⅜"] SIZE 2 years: 5, 11, 16, 21, 27 and 32 cm [2", 4⅜", 6¼", 8¼", 10⅝", 12½"] SIZE 3/4 years: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29 and 35 cm [2", 4⅜", 6¾", 9", 11⅜", 13¾"] ---------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 72-80-84 (96-104) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 1 edge st. When rib measures 4 cm [1½"] change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-6 (8-10) sts evenly = 66-72-78 (88-94) sts. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts – SEE ABOVE – P 2, M.1 (= 15 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.3 (= 6 sts), P 2, M.3 (= 6 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.2 (= 15 sts), P 2, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm [6¾"-7"-8¼" (9½"-10¼")] bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2 (3-3) times and 1 st 2-3-2 (2-2) times = 56-56-60 (66-72) sts. When piece measures 26-28-32 (36-39) cm [10¼"-11"-12½" (14¼"-15¼")] work the 6 sts on M.3 tog 2 by 2 = 50-50-54 (60-66) sts. On next row bind off the middle 12-12-16 (20-22) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 18-18-18 (19-21) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 28-30-34 (38-41) cm [11"-11¾"-13⅜" (15"-16⅛")] dec 6 sts evenly on row = 12-12-12 (13-15) sts left on shoulder, bind off on next row. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle from mid front. Cast on 42-46-50 (54-58) sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 5 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib as follows from mid front (first row = RS): 5 garter sts (= front band), * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Remember buttonholes on front band - SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 4 cm [1½"] change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7], K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-5-6 (5-6) sts evenly (do not dec on front band) = 38-41-44 (49-52) sts. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts (= front band), P 1, M.3 (= 6 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.1 (= 15 sts), P 2, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm [6¾"-7"-8¼" (9½"-10¼")] bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 33-33-35 (38-41) sts. When piece measures 24-26-30 (33-36) cm [9½"-10¼"-11¾" (13"-14¼")] work the 6 sts on M.3 tog 2 by 2 = 30-30-32 (35-38) sts. Now slip the 8-8-10 (12-13) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 18-18-18 (19-21) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 28-30-34 (38-41) cm [11"-11¾"-13⅜" (15"-16⅛")] dec 6 sts evenly = 12-12-12 (13-15) sts left on shoulder, bind off LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work like right front piece, but mirrored, i.e. work first row as follows from the side: 1 edge st * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 5 garter sts (= front band). When working pattern work row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, 4-7-8 (11-11) moss sts, P 2, M.2 (= 15 sts), P 4-4-6 (8-11), M.3 (= 6 sts), P 1 and 5 garter sts (= front band). Do not make buttonholes! SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 46-46-46 (50-50) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 cm [1½"] rib, K2/P2, with 1 edge st each side. Change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-8-8 (10-10) sts evenly = 36-38-38 (40-40) sts. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st, 12-13-13 (14-14) moss sts, P 2, M.3 (= 6 sts), P 2, 12-13-13 (14-14) moss sts and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm [2¾"] inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 4th row a total of 6-7-9 (10-12) times = 48-52-56 (60-64) sts – work the inc sts in moss st. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm [6¾"-7"-8¼" (9½"-11")] bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, and then 2 sts until piece measures 21-23-26 (30-34) cm [8¼"-9"-10¼" (11¾"-13⅜")], now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time, AT THE SAME TIME on the last row work the 6 sts on M.3 tog 2 by 2. Bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 22-24-27 (31-35) cm [8¾"-9½"-10⅝" (12¼"-13¾")]. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. HOOD: Pick up approx 46 to 68 sts (includes sts on stitch holders at front) round neckline on needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. K 2 rows, AT THE SAME TIME on second row inc evenly to 68-72-76 (80-84) sts. Continue in reverse stockinette st with 5 garter sts each side until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm [8¼"-9"-9¾" (10⅝"-11")], bind off. Sew hood tog at the top, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons. ---------------------------------------------------------- SOCK: PATTERN: See diagram M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. DECREASING TIP: Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. HEEL DECREASES: ROW 1 (= RS): Work row until 5-5-6 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece, ROW 2 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-6 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece, ROW 3 (= RS): Work row until 4-4-5 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece, ROW 4 (= WS): Work row until 4-4-5 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece. Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 9-9-12 (12-12) sts on row. ---------------------------------------------------------- SOCK: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 36-36-42 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Merino Extra Fine and work 2 cm [3/4"] rib, K3/P3. Work 1 round rib, AT THE SAME TIME inc all K3 to K4 = 42-42-49 (49-49) sts. Work 1 round K4/P3. Now continue as follows: * M.4, P3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-6-7 (7-7) times. After 3 vertical repeats of M.4 work sts in M.4 tog 2 by 2 = 30-30-35 (35-35) sts. Now keep the first 17-17-22 (22-22) sts on needle for heel and slip remaining 13 sts on a stitch holder (= upper foot). Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm [1⅛"-1¼"-1½" (1½"-1¾")] stockinette st back and forth on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 7-8-9 (9-10) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 36-38-43 (43-45) sts. Continue in stockinette st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows on each side of the 13 sts on upper foot: K tog the 2 sts before the 13 sts on upper foot into back of loop and K tog the 2 sts after the 13 sts. Dec on every other row a total of 5-6-7 (6-6) times = 26-26-29 (31-33) sts. When piece measures approx 8-9-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm [3⅛"-3½"-3¾" (4½"-4⅞")] from marker on heel (approx 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3.5) cm [3/4"-¾"-⅞" (7/8"-1¼")] remain) insert 1 marker each side with 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot and 13-13-14 (16-16) sts under foot. Dec on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP – on every other round 2-2-3 (3-5) times and then on every round 3-3-3 (3-2) times = 6-6-5 (7-5) sts. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4"-4⅜"-4¾" (5½"-6¼")]. ---------------------------------------------------------- : BLANKET GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. INCREASING TIP: Make all inc from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole. PATTERN: See diagram M.5. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. BLANKET: Blanket is made up of 12 squares, sewn tog 3 by 4. 1 square measures approx: width 18 cm [7"], length 22.5 cm [8⅞"] 1 SQUARE: Cast on 36 sts on needle size 5 mm [US 8] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 8 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly on the middle 26 sts = 46 sts. Work next row from WS as follows: 5 garter sts, K3, P6, K 4, P3, K4, P3, K4, P6, K3 and 5 garter sts. Continue as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, M.5 on the next 36 sts, 5 garter sts. Work 4 vertical repeats of M.5 like this, but on the last repeat finish when 2 rows of diagram remain. K 1 row from RS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10 sts on the middle 36 sts = 36 sts. Work 8 rows garter st on all sts and bind off loosely. Note: You may work 4 squares in a row without binding off, i.e. beg a new square after the last 8 rows in garter st. ASSEMBLY: Sew the squares tog, 3 by 4. Sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round the whole blanket with crochet hook size 5 mm [H/8] as follows: * 1 sc in edge st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the first of these 3 ch, skip 1 cm [3/8"] *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (144)
Paola wrote:
Salve per quanto riguarda la lavorazione della copertina non ho ben capito nella descrizione si dice che durante l’ultima ripetizione del diagramma quando mancano due ferri quindi subito prima di quello dove c’è la nocciolina bisogna lavorare un ferro tutto a dritto con le diminuzioni; Dopo questo ferro come si prosegue? Non si lavorano gli ultimi 2 del diagramma si passa direttamente a quelli del legaccio? Dall’immagine nell’ultima ripetiz la nocciolina non c’è. Grazie
02.11.2024 - 20:22DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Paola, è corretto, sull'ultima ripetizione si deve fermare prima della nocciolina e lavorare il ferro a diritto con le diminuzioni come indicato. Buon lavoro!
02.11.2024 - 23:47Paola wrote:
Salve Ci dev’essere un errore nel diagramma M5 la fine del diagramma non corrisponde con la parte finale di ciascun modulo riportato in immagine della copertina Potreste aiutarmi Grazie
29.10.2024 - 22:00DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Paola, non ci sono errori nelle spiegazioni del diagramma: i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra per i ferri di andata e da sinistra a destra per i ferri di ritorno. Buon lavoro!
02.11.2024 - 12:06Aurélie wrote:
Bonjour, Je souhaite faire la veste. J'ai vu que pour l'échantillon vous proposez de faire uniquement du jersey. Or, ce modèle ayant des torsades, celles-ci réduisent le tricot. Comment faire pour savoir si notre travail va correspondre aux dimensions du modèle ? Merci d'avance pour votre retour.
14.02.2024 - 14:45DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Aurélie, si votre échantillon en jersey est juste, et que vous conservez la même tension en tricotant par la suite, alors les mesures finales seront justes car les ajustements sont faits dans le nombre de mailles pour chaque taille. Bon tricot!
14.02.2024 - 16:28Lene Hallingore wrote:
Jeg kan ikke se i vejledningen, hvad jeg skal strikke mellem diagrammerne på vrangpindene.
27.11.2023 - 09:52DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lene. Fra vrangen strikker vrangmaskene rett og perlestrikk over perlestrikk. Om du ser på bildet vil du se at det bare er vrangmasker mellom f.eks diagram M.3 og M.1. mvh DROPS Design
27.11.2023 - 10:30Anne-Berit Storrød wrote:
Hei. Jeg strikker jakken i str 6/9 mnd og holder på med bakstykket. Når jeg har felt til ermer har jeg 56 m på pinnen. Da er det kun mønster og vrangmaskene før, mellom og etter igjen. (Det er felt 8 masker i hver side og det utgjør 7 m perlestrikk og 1 stk kantmaske.) Skal man da ikke fortsette med 1 stk kantmaske ?
21.01.2023 - 23:26DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anne-Berit, Nei, det er ikke nødvendig med kantmasker langs ermhullene. Ermene sys i vrangmaskene. God fornøyelse!
22.01.2023 - 08:23Kati Salonius wrote:
Voisiko ohjeen tehdä ilman huppua?
18.09.2022 - 17:58DROPS Design answered:
Voit neuloa jakun ilman huppua. Poimi tällöin silmukoita pääntien reunasta ja neulo esim. joustinneuleinen pääntien reunus.
20.09.2022 - 18:44Valentina wrote:
Potete verificare nello schema M5 che la treccia centrale, quella con la nocciolina, sia corretta? Ho seguito tutto lo schema ma non viene come nella foto. Grazie mille
11.09.2022 - 22:24DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Valentina, in quale punto trova difficoltà? ha seguito lo schema dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra? Buon lavoro!
12.09.2022 - 21:44Velma wrote:
Im starting the back now and you only give instructions for the first row. What do i knit for the second row and does these 2 rows form the pattern
17.07.2022 - 13:08DROPS Design answered:
Dear Velma, in fact, the rib pattern is formed by the first row already. For second row you knit stitches just as you see it: i.e. 1 edge st, P2, K2, ... Happy knitting!
18.07.2022 - 15:22Nathalie wrote:
Ich hab noch eine Frage. Dieses Mal zu den Ärmeln: es sollen 10 mal beidseitig 2 Maschen zugenommen werden. Ich stricke also am Anfang und Ende jeder vierten Reihe eine Masche dazu. Das gibt doch aber insgesamt 20 Maschen (=10x2Maschen) , dann hat das Strickstück nach allen Zunahmen aber 70 und nicht 60 Maschen . Was verstehe ich falsch ?
30.03.2021 - 22:01DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nathalie, es sind 40 Maschen (4. Größe) + 2 Maschen x 10 Mal =40+20=60 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.04.2021 - 10:11Nathalie wrote:
Ich stricke die Jacke, beim rechten Vorderteil verstehe ich nicht, welche Maschen ich auf die Hilfsnadel nehmen soll : die Maschen an der Ärmelkante oder die, die zur Knopfleiste zeigen?
18.02.2021 - 21:45DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nathalie, beim rechten Vorderteil legen Sie die ersten Maschen am Anfang einer Hinreihe still = die 5 Blenden-Maschen + (je nach der Größe) 3 bis 10 Maschen dazu = 8, 10, 12 oder 13 M sind jetzt auf der Hilfsnadel, jetzt stricken Sie wie zuvor und ketten neuen Maschen am Anfang der Reihe ab Halsausschnitt - die stillgelegten Maschen werden später für die Kapuze aufgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
19.02.2021 - 07:55