DROPS Baby / 17 / 3

Cream Dream by DROPS Design

Set of knitted hat and baby onesie with or without buttons between the legs in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Bust: 52-56-62 (70-74) cm [20½”-22”-24 3/8” (27½”-29 1/8”)]
Full length: 50-59-68 (74-80) cm [19¾”-23¼”-26¾” (29 1/8”-31½”)]
Hat, head circumference: 40/42 - 44/46 - 46/48 (48/50 - 50/52) cm [16’’-17½’’-18½’’ (19’’-20’’)]

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
JUMPSUIT:
250-300-350 (400-450) g color no 01, off-white.
HAT:
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 01, off-white.
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JUMPSUIT:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’] for the 2 smaller sizes and 60 cm [24’’] for the 3 larger sizes) size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16”]) size 3.5 mm [US 4] – for rib.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 503:
4 pcs for shoulder + 10-10-10 (12-12) pcs for legs, if needed.

HAT:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 4 mm [US 6] – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 3.5 mm [US 4] – for rib.

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100% Wool
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JUMPSUIT

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.3 – the diagrams show pattern from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on buttonhole edge on front of leg. On right leg make buttonholes from RS and on left leg make buttonholes from WS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when leg measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 2, 5, 9, 12 and 16 cm [3/4”, 2”, 3½”, 4¾”, 6¼”].
SIZE 6/9 months: 2, 7, 12, 16 and 20 cm [3/4”, 2¾”, 4¾”, 6¼”, 8”].
SIZE 12/18 months: 2, 7, 12, 17 and 23 cm [3/4”, 2¾”, 4¾”, 6¾”, 9”].
SIZE 2 years: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22 and 27 cm [3/4”, 2¾”, 4¾”, 6¾”, 8¾”, 10 5/8”].
SIZE 3/4 years: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm [3/4”, 3 1/8” 5½”, 8”, 10¼” 12½”]

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Make all dec from RS inside 3 garter sts by P2 tog.
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RIGHT LEG (without buttons between legs):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 32-36-40 (44-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 cm [1½’’] rib, K2/P2, AT THE SAME TIME inc all P2 to P3 on the last round = 40-45-50 (55-60) sts. Work 1 round K2/P3. Now K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 30-29-30 (33-32) sts evenly = 70-74-80 (88-92) sts. Change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] and insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. P 1 round and continue as follows: 7-7-8 (9-10) stockinette sts, M.1 (= 21 sts), 2 stockinette sts, M.3 on the next 10-14-18 (24-26) sts, 2 stockinette sts, M.2 (= 21 sts) and 7-7-8 (9-10) stockinette sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 15-19-22 (26-31) cm [6-7½”-8¾” (10¼”-12¼”)] divide piece by marker and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip both legs on the same circular needle afterwards). Cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 72-76-82 (90-94) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm [7”-8¾”-9¾” (11 3/8”-13 3/8”)] bind off 1 st each side and put piece aside.

LEFT LEG (without buttons between legs):
Like right leg.

RIGHT LEG (with buttons):
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 38-42-46 (50-54) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. Continue as follows from RS: 4 garter sts (= buttonhole edge), * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 4 garter sts (= buttonhole edge).
Continue in rib with 4 garter sts each side, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm [3/4’’] make buttonhole – SEE ABOVE.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 4 cm [1½’’] inc all P2 to P3 from RS = 45-50-55 (60-65) sts. Work 1 row K2/P3. Now K 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME inc 33-32-33 (36-35) sts evenly (do not inc on the 4 garter sts each side) = 78-82-88 (96-100) sts. Change to needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] and K 1 row from WS on all sts. Continue as follows: 4 garter sts, 7-7-8 (9-10) stockinette sts, M.1 (= 21 sts), 2 stockinette sts, M.3 on the next 10-14-18 (24-26) sts, 2 stockinette sts, M.2 (= 21 sts), 7-7-8 (9-10) stockinette sts and 4 garter sts.
When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm [7”-8¾”-9¾” (11 3/8”-13 3/8”)] bind off the 4 garter sts each side = 70-74-80 (88-92) sts. Put piece aside.

LEFT LEG (with buttons):
Like right leg, but with buttonholes on the opposite side.

BODY PIECE:
Slip legs on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] = 140-148-160 (176-184) sts and insert 1 marker mid front and 1 marker mid back. Round now beg mid back. Continue in pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP-1, and repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6 times = 128-136-148 (164-172) sts.
Insert 1 marker each side = 32-34-37 (41-43) sts between all 4 markers.
When piece measures 39-47-55 (60-65) cm [15¼”-18½”-21 5/8” (23 5/8”-25½”)] P12 sts each side (= 6 sts on each side of markers at sides) with remaining sts as before. On next round K these 12 sts and on next round P these 12 sts.
On next round bind off the middle 6 of the 12 P sts each side and complete front and back pieces separately.

FRONT PIECE: = 58-62-68 (76-80) sts. Continue as before, but work 3 sts each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st each side for armhole – SEE DECREASING TIP-2 – on every other row a total of 1-3-5 (6-6) times = 56-56-58 (64-68) sts. Continue in pattern with 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 45-54-63 (68-74) cm [17¾”-21¼”-24¾” (26¾”-29 1/8”)] bind off the middle 8-8-10 (12-14) sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 20-20-20 (22-23) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 49-58-67 (73-79) cm [19¼”-22¾”-26 3/8” (28¾”-31”)] dec 6 sts evenly = 14-14-14 (16-17) sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE: = 58-62-68 (76-80) sts. Continue in pattern and bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 56-56-58 (64-68) sts. (NOTE: there are more stockinette sts mid back than mid front, i.e. pattern will not be identical on front and back shoulders).
When piece measures 48-57-66 (72-78) cm [19”-22½”-26” (28 3/8”-30¾”)] bind off the middle 16-16-18 (20-22) sts for neck = 20-20-20 (22-23) sts left on each shoulder, and complete each side separately. When piece measures 49-58-67 (73-79) cm [19¼”-22¾”-26 3/8” (28¾”-31”)] dec 6 sts evenly = 14-14-14 (16-17) sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

ASSEMBLY:
NECKLINE FRONT: Pick up approx 32 to 44 sts (divisible by 4) along neckline on front piece on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] and K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. Continue in rib back and forth on needle and bind off when rib measures 2 cm [3/4’’].
NECKLINE BACK: Pick up approx 28 to 36 sts (divisible by 4) along neckline on back piece on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] and continue as described for front piece.

SHOULDER FRONT: Slip sts from stitch holder on one shoulder on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm [US 4] and pick up 4 sts on neckline = 18-18-18 (20-21) sts. K 3 rows back and forth on needle. On next row make 2 buttonholes from RS as follows: K2, K2 tog, 1 YO, K 9-9-9 (11-12), K2 tog, 1 YO, K3. K 3 rows on all sts and bind off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

SHOULDER BACK: Slip sts from stitch holder on one shoulder on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm [US 4] and pick up 4 sts on neckline = 18-18-18 (20-21) sts. K 7 rows back and forth on needle and bind off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

ASSEMBLY (without buttons between legs):
Sew legs tog at the top inside 1 edge st and sew opening between legs, front piece to back piece.
Sew on shoulder buttons.

ASSEMBLY (with buttons between legs):
Sew tog buttonhole edges at the top of front of legs and sew tog buttonhole edges at the top of back of legs.
Sew on buttons between legs and on shoulders
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´
HAT:

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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HAT: Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 84-90-96 (102-108) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round and continue in rib, K3/P3. When rib measures 3 cm [1 1/8’’], K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 9-10-11 (12-13) sts evenly = 75-80-85 (90-95) sts. Change to needle size 4 mm [US 6], P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Now insert 5 markers in piece with 15-16-17 (18-19) sts between each marker. Continue in stockinette st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5 1/8’’-5½’’)] dec 1 st on each side of all markers, and repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6-6-6 (7-7) times – SEE DECREASING TIP = 15-20-25 (20-25) sts. NOTE: change to double pointed needles when sts no longer fit circular needle. Now K2 tog all the way round, cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Hat measures approx 14-15-16 (18-19) cm [5½”-6”-6¼” (7”-7½”)].

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Liv Erichsen 20.09.2018 - 19:11:

Tusen takk for hjelpen, kjekt at dere er så kjapp å svare 😊

Liv Erichsen 19.09.2018 - 15:48:

Hei, jeg skal begynne å strikke bakstykket - ferdig med forstykket og skuldrene. Det står at jeg skal felle som for forstykket, men det står ikke noe om riller i siden slik som det er på forstykket. Ble litt usikker, veldig fin bukse 😃

DROPS Design 20.09.2018 kl. 10:27:

Hej Liv, jo det stemmer, du strikker også rillerne på bagstykket. Ja er de ikke søde :) God fornøjelse!

Liv Erichsen 18.09.2018 - 22:02:

Hei er det riktig at det ikke skal være riller på bakstykket ?

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 15:17:

Hej Liv, hvor er du i opskriften, så skal vi se på det :)

Joan Mangiulli 28.02.2018 - 21:51:

When making the legs on round needle do I read the chart as if all stitches were on the right side? Thanks. Joan

DROPS Design 01.03.2018 kl. 08:50:

Dear Mrs Mangiulli, correct, when working in the round read diagrams starting from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left on every round. Happy knitting!

Theresa 24.02.2017 - 10:37:

Danke!!

Theresa 23.02.2017 - 09:27:

Leider ist es noch nicht ganz klar. Wenn die Rückr. mit 4,5 komplett re gestrickt wird, "sehe" ich auf der ersten Hinr. mit Muster nur li Maschen. Das heißt bei angekreuzten Kästchen muss ich in der Hinr. re und Rückr. li stricken, bei leeren Kästchen in der Hinr. li und in der Rückr. re? Was stricke ich bei "glatt"? Bitte entschuldigen Sie dass ich so auf dem Schlauch stehe. Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 23.02.2017 kl. 10:13:

Liebe Theresa, bei der 1. Reihe in M.1 stricken Sie so (= Hinreihe): 3 li, 3 re, 4 li, 6 re (Zopf), 5 li - bei der Rückreihe (= 2. Reihe) stricken Sie so 5 re, 6 li, 4 re, 3 li, 3 re, usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Theresa 22.02.2017 - 13:37:

Hallo zusammen, Wie sind beim Muster die Kästchen zu verstehen? Ein Kästchen mit Kreuz wird glatt in der Hinrunde rechts und Rückrunde links (bzw andersrum) und ein leeres Kästchen in Hin- und Rückrunde gleich gestrickt? Wie gehe ich dann beim geknöpften Bein bei der ersten Hinrunde mit Nadel 4,5 vor wenn ich M1 stricken möchte? Vorher ist ja eine Rückrunde mit nur rechten Maschen...

DROPS Design 22.02.2017 kl. 17:30:

Liebe Theresa, ein leeres Kästchen = glatt re (= re auf rechts und li auf links), ein Kästchen mit Kreuz = glatt li (= li auf rechts und re auf links). Die 1. Reihe stricken Sie von der Vorderseite, und wird von unten von rechts nach links von der Vorderseite gelesen, und von links nach rechts von der Rückseite gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne Berit Kvalvågnes 12.01.2016 - 14:05:

Finner en feil i oppskriften Diagram M.2. Vridningen i omgang 1 og 7 må være byttet om. Mener fletten skal vris fra yttersiden og innover. Her blir det omvendt. Flott bukse som jeg nå strikker for 2.gang.

Stine 01.11.2014 - 20:39:

Jeg regner med at det er riktig, men vil forsikre meg om at fellingen i sidene ikke skjer midt inne i perlemønstret, men nærmere baken fordi den har 2x6 flere masker etter fellingen i skrittet? Det er bare min forkjærlighet for symetri (som det forsåvidt likevel blir) som gjør at jeg spør. Takk på forhånd :)

DROPS Design 03.11.2014 kl. 10:38:

Hej Stine, når du sætter de sidste 2 mærketråde (i hver side) så skal du have lige mange masker mellem alle 4 mærketråde. Det betyder at du skal have lige mange masker på forstykket som bagstykket når du har lukket af til ærmegab. God fornøjelse!

Anna 25.08.2014 - 15:25:

Dziękuję:)

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